How To Transfer Designs To Wood: Heat Method

This technique is one of our favorites for it’s speed and accuracy. It works great for lettered pieces, detailed pieces, anytime you need a really precise transfer, or for almost any design.

NOTE: This technique requires a laser printed design. If you are printing words or letters, you design must be printed in reverse.

What Tools Do I need?

The best tool would be a solid tip burner, like this Walnut Hollow Versa Tool above. This tool is great for covering big areas because of its durability, consistent heat distribution, and simplicity in handling. A wire tip burner will work just as well, but it will take a little longer.

The perfect nib for the job is the Transfer Nib or Transfer Point. This nib covers a large surface area making the transfer faster. Any shading point will do. Anything hot and flat - even an an iron will work.

Don’t have this tool and want to transfer your design in a pinch?? Check out 3 ways to transfer a design without using heat.

How to transfer your pattern:

1. Prepare your design

You will need your design printed in reverse as the transfer is going to be mirrored onto the surface. You must use a laser printer or photocopier. The toner will be transferred directly to the wood using heat. This is especially important with any text or lettering!

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

2. Prepare your SURFACE

Start with a sanded smooth, dry, clean, and unfinished wood surface. Click here to see how to prepare your surface for burning.

I like to cut quite close to the edges of the design itself so that the placement is easier to see. Leave some room for tape - you don’t want to be touching it with your hot tool.

Place your design on your wood facing down (make sure it is right where you want it) and tape down on one side (two or more if it's a large design.)

3. Transferring the design

You want your tool to be hot, but not hot enough to burn the paper. Make a little test on the corner because if you burn the paper too much, your transfer may not work. Apply a light pressure and keep moving your tool over the back of the design.

Make sure you transferred everything before you remove your design. I like to peak underneath to check I transferred the entire design, just be careful not to move the paper placement or the design may not line back up.

If it is not transferring, try pressing a little harder, and/or slowly increasing your heat.

Word of warning when using a regular iron:

I had a large project so I tried using an iron thinking it would save me time.

Well, my iron has a steam setting that automatically kicks in at a certain temperature. In order to make the transfer work, the heat has to be quite high and, of course, there should not be any steam or moisture coming out of the iron…

I tried to use the medium heat (right before the steam started coming out) and the design did transfer BUT I needed a lot more pressure than normal which wasn’t a sustainable option. I had to press quite hard for anything to happen. I switched back to the Versa Tool because it was easier on the wrists and had the heat I needed.

What if I make a mistake?

Sometimes when peaking under the paper to see if the design has transferred, the paper will shift. If you continue with the transferring process, the shift can cause the design to be out of place.

Sometimes you think you placed the design down correctly, but after the transfer, it’s not exactly where you want it to be…

You can simply sand off the transfer lines with regular sandpaper. Click here to learn more about that process.

How many times can I use the design??

You can use this method to transfer a design onto wood a couple times. Each time you transfer, the design will get lighter and lighter so it is best to get it right the first time!

Watch these free videos below for tips, tricks, and all the details you need to successfully transfer designs using this technique.

For more pyrography tips and tricks and to learn wood burning at your own pace from your home consider The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

A Case for Unfinished Woodburned Art

Do I need a finish for my wood art?

Some say it is a big no-no to not finish a wood piece, while others love it. I am here to build the case for the unfinished, un-lacquered, un-stained, un-oiled, as-is, natural, raw woodburned art.

What happens to the wood over time?

The first piece I ever created, my wedding name sign, back in 2011 still looks as good as the day I burned it. I didn’t finish it with anything. No oil, no stain, no varnish — nothing! It has been hanging on my wall for almost 10 years. While my craft has improved, this is still one of my most treasured burned pieces and I love that it has held up to time. But, I also love that even if it didn’t hold up or if it eventually fades, I can easily add to it whenever I please.

I am not saying that there isn’t a time and place for finishes, I actually think they help in many many cases, but that is for a different blog post on a different day. For my wood burned art pieces that will be hanging on a wall, I prefer to leave it raw.

7 reasons why I leave my woodburned wall art raw:

1. I love the contrast that the light colored wood has against the darkened burn lines. When almost any finish is added, that contrast diminishes.

2. By not finishing the piece, you are able to go back and add or edit the piece later on, you can touch-up areas if they fade over time without any prep work or damage to the original piece.

3. It’s cost effective! It doesn’t cost any money to leave the wood as-is.

4. You aren’t going to ruin it by choosing the wrong finish or by applying your finish improperly. Nothing is worse than ruining a finished piece in its final step.

5. It won’t yellow, crack, or chip off over time. It also will collect less dust and dirt than your oil based finishes.

6. It’s not going to ruin any color you add to your piece. It won’t smear, discolor, or fade any mixed media you add.

7. It’s a time saver! You don’t have to prep the surface, add the finish, sand between coats, and wait for it to cure.

This is not to say it doesn’t come with its disadvantages, but for wall decor, that is out of sunlight, and not being touched, I think it is a fantastic option.

There will be plenty of people that disagree, and that’s ok. You go right ahead and finish your piece, but for those wanting to leave it raw, here is your permission.

What are the disadvantages of leaving your woodburned art unfinished?

There are obviously some cons to leaving the wood raw. It doesn’t protect against - oil, fingerprints, dirt, dust, dents, UV, or water - but a lot of finishes don’t either.

For any kitchenware, I would never suggest leaving it raw. ALWAYS oil your kitchen wood items with food-safe finishes. The oil will protect them and keep them looking beautiful.

Anything functional art that is going to be handled, touched, and used I recommend applying a finish. This will help protect it from fingerprints, dents, water and damage.

Considering unfinished?

I hope my case for the raw, unfinished, natural, as-is wood art has convinced some of you to give it a go. To leave your art unfinished, save a little time, money and frustration. For those beautiful woodburned art pieces that are going to decorate someone’s walls, to be admired, but not touched, consider leaving it raw.

Check out these other helpful blog posts

Adding Watercolor to Wood

Getting kids involved with your pyrography

Transferring Images Using Heat and Without Using Heat

For more pyrography tips and tricks and to learn wood burning at your own pace from your home consider The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

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