Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When adding a new medium, besides pyrography, to your wood slice, do you find your colours or paints sinking into the wood and loosing their richness?

Here is a little hack for you!

Adding a layer of isolation coat or primer can help prepare the surface so that your mediums do not get lost. It can also act as a barrier to your wood when applying finishes that tend discolour your wood slice, like resin or varnish. Read on to learn more.

What is primer?

A primer is a preparatory coating applied to a surface before painting. Its primary purpose is to create a suitable surface for paint to adhere to, ensuring better durability and finish of the final artwork or project. Primers can be used on various surfaces like wood, canvas, metal, or walls, depending on the type of painting or medium. Gesso is a common primer used for canvas and other surfaces. I have found a primer, the Folkart primer, which works the same way as isolation coat and is less expensive.

Another alternative is to use a wood sealer designed for wood specifically. However, wood sealers are usually intended for large areas (like a deck or furniture) so you need to buy a large amount at one time. The products I show here are more specialized for artist so they are available in smaller quantities at a smaller price.

What is isolation coat?

An isolation coat is a transparent layer applied to a painting (after painting), typically in acrylics, before the final varnish. It serves as a protective barrier between the painting surface and the varnish. This isolation coat prevents the varnish from sticking directly to the paint, allowing for easier removal of the varnish if necessary (e.g., for cleaning or conservation), without damaging the artwork underneath.

Golden's isolation coat product is specifically designed for use with acrylic paintings. It is a ready-to-use fluid medium that can be applied directly to a fully cured acrylic painting to protect the paint layers before varnishing. It makes the varnish layer easy to remove which means you can take off and reapply the varnish without messing up the paint underneath. Artists love this stuff because it helps their acrylic pieces last longer and stay looking great.

Aly of @alyooposartistry, introduced us to this magical liquid at The Burn Club Retreat back in 2018. She uses it as a layer on top of her finished wood burned piece that she finishes with resin, before the resin is applied. Resin, as with majority of finishes, darkens woods (generally, all woods change color and/or darken when a finish is applied).

before resin

after resin

This mushroom above was burned and watercolored on cherry wood. The resin made the grains pop and the redness super rich. ***There was no isolation coat or primer added here.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

Isolation coat doesn’t darken the wood as much, but you can see a slight difference.

Here you can see a triangular cherry wood slice. The primer darkens the surface slightly, but looking at the bottom, you can see that without any primer or isolation coat, the wood got considerably darker!

Applying isolation coat or primer before adding resin or Varnish is helpful to maintain the colour to what you see when it is unfinished

The darkening of wood can be great, but it can also make burn marks much less visible, especially if you are not going very deep, like with shading.

Some woods do not darken as much as others, so if you are unsure, do a little test on the back! Usually, darker woods get much darker then their original color and lighter woods do not darken as much.

How Else can isolation coat or primer be used in the world of wood?

Often, these products can be used to prepare the surface for another medium. I use them to create a barrier on the wood so that the medium I am using does not sink into the wood and get lost. The best example would be watercolour, which requires, well, water. The water often gets absorbed into the wood and the colours can loose their richness.

To learn about how and why different mediums get lost in wood, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist where I explain how the grain of wood and the way its cut can have an affect on mediums applied and pyrography itself!

Other mediums you can use on top of isolation coat are gold foil (which require a liquid glue for the gold to adhere, or paints that are more liquid/watery.

For wood-based art, a base coat serves crucial functions before painting:

• It improves adhesion, ensuring paint doesn't peel or flake

• It seals wood pores for uniform paint application, saving paint and reducing coats

• It enhances colour vibrancy by blocking the wood's natural hue from altering paint appearance

• It smooths out wood imperfections, providing a better surface for detailed work

• It blocks natural wood resins that can cause discoloration.

• The type of primer can even affect the final sheen of the paint, enhancing glossiness or creating a matte finish.

However, keep in mind:

• It can also make watercolor (or any liquid mediums) to behave more like acrylics, sitting on top of the surface rather than absorbing into it… Primer is more “clingy” than isolation coat (isolation coat is a bit more slippery) and this can cause watercolours to not bleed or blend as they would on paper or raw wood. It will still work, just the outcome will be slightly different.

How do they effect the wood?

In this example below, you can see that both isolation coat (on the left) and primer (on the right) darken the wood slightly. I tried both isolation coat and primer on an end grain (rounded slice) and face grain (rectangle slice) as the grain direction makes a difference! To learn more about the differences, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist.

The end grain (round) slice is maple and the face grain (rectangular) slice is basswood.

The instructions on either medium says “add multiple layers as needed”.

One layer gives a slight sheen, but the more coats added, it seem that the more shinier the surface gets (on both end and face grain).

The end grain (round) slices definitely require a couple coats as either product soaks in.

Woods that are lighter like this (basswood, pine etc…) are generally less effected by finishes. This slice below, is cherry wood and it is easily darkened by any finish.

So Should I use isolation coat or primer?

After some testing and experimenting, the verdict is so close that the two are essentially the same. My thoughts are, if you plan on sealing before adding colour AND after, then use isolation coat. Isolation coat is meant for going on top so therefore, instead of buying primer and isolation coat, you can just use isolation coat first, add your paint, and then add an isolation coat after.

If you want a durable finish, I still recommend finishing off your piece with a varnish in order to fully seal or protect your artwork after the medium (such as watercolor or acrylic) has been applied.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

A sealer or varnish are designed specifically to:

1. Protect: They create a protective layer over your artwork, safeguarding it from dust, moisture, and UV light.

2. Enhance Appearance: Varnishes can provide different finishes, such as matte, satin, or gloss, depending on the look you want.

3. Preserve: Sealers and varnishes help prevent fading, cracking, or other damage over time.

Thank you for reading!

We hope this information is useful and helps you in your journey discovering the world of pyrography.

Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide

Pyrography, or wood burning, is a beautiful and rewarding art form, but like any craft, it comes with its challenges. Whether you're a seasoned artist or just starting, it's common to run into problems that affect the quality of your burns.

In this guide, we’ve made it super easy to find solutions to common pyrography problems. Just scroll down and click on the issue you're dealing with to get quick tips and fixes. Whether it’s adjusting your heat settings, picking the right wood, or fine-tuning your technique, we’ve got you covered.

Find your issue below and get back to burning with confidence!

Burn Quality Issues

• Uneven Burn Marks

  Cause: Varying pressure or inconsistent heat distribution.
  

  Solution:

  • Ensure the tip is fully heated before burning. Allow the tool to reach its working temperature for consistent burns. Some tools heat up super quick, others take longer.

  • Practice even hand pressure. Try a few test strokes on scrap wood before working on your project.

  • Use a smoother wood surface to avoid uneven grain affecting the burn quality. Check out: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

• Splotchy or Patchy Burns

  Cause: Dirty tip, uneven wood grain, or resin in the wood.
  

  Solution:

  • Regularly clean the tool tip with a fine wire brush or cloth to remove buildup. Check out Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool to learn more about cleaning and caring for your tools.

  • Choose fine-grained, smooth wood types like basswood or birch for more uniform burns. To see a list of woods we like to use, go to: Best Wood for Pyrography

  • Avoid resin-heavy woods like pine, or sand and seal the wood before burning. Check out this blog post to learn more: Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

• Burn Marks Are Too Light

  Cause: Low heat setting or quick hand movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Increase the heat setting gradually, especially for harder woods.

  • Slow down your hand movements to give the tool enough time to burn the wood. Patience (and consistency) is the key with pyrography.

  • Clean the tip if it's dirty or has residue build-up. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Burn Marks Are Too Dark or Deep

  Cause: Excessive heat or too much pressure.

  
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting or use a lighter touch with the tool. You should never be pressing too hard onto the wood anyways! But if you like to burn hot, then reducing the pressure and moving faster will help.

  • Not always the best solution, but you can try to use fine-grit sandpaper to reduce overly dark areas. This will most likely not take away the burn marks, but can lighten them a little. This is not the best solution though as sanding can damage the surrounding design and create a different look to your burn marks compared to what you do not sand...

• Lines Are Too Thick

  Cause: Wrong tip choice or excessive pressure.
  

  Solution:

  • Use finer tips for detailed work and intricate lines.

  • Reduce pressure when burning, as pressing too hard widens the burn line.

  • Consider using adjustable heat settings to create finer burns with lower heat. Lower and slower is the motto for thin and crisp lines.

Line Control and Precision

• Burn Lines Are Shaky

  Cause: Lack of hand control or movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • Practice straight lines and curves on scrap wood to improve steadiness.

    • Usually pushing the nib away from you is easier, but try pulling it towards you as well.

    • Rotate the wood to find the most comfortable and best angle.

    • Try different angles of the pen too. Experiment which one feels most comfortable.

    • You can try using different nibs. Ones with a sharp edge can often be easier to make lines with. A curved sharp edge is also very different than a straight sharp edge...

  • Consider using a stencil or guide to help keep lines smooth and consistent. A metal ruler for example could work great to keep a long straight line looking straight.

• Unwanted "Glow" Around Burn Lines

  Cause: Excessive heat or movement that is too slow
  

  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce the amount of heat radiating from the tip.

  • Use a faster, controlled hand movement to limit the time heat is concentrated in one area.

  • Sand the wood after burning to remove the glow. To learn more about that, visit: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

  • Choose a wood that is less prone to scorching, like basswood or maple, which tend to produce less "glow" than softer woods like pine.

• Wrist pain or discomfort

  Cause: Unstable positioning and/or awkward wood size.

  Solution: Try one of the following but also make sure to take a lot of movement breaks (I like to set a timer for that).

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

  • For large pieces of wood, try a turntable, an art easel, or propping against a wall.

Wood Surface and Tool Interaction

• Nib Sticking to Wood

  Cause: High heat or resinous wood.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to prevent sticking and charring.

  • Keep the tip moving steadily to avoid lingering in one spot.

  • Clean the tip regularly to remove sticky residue. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Smoke During Burning

  Cause: High heat or burning on resin-heavy woods.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce excessive smoke.

  • Work in a well-ventilated area or use a small fan to disperse smoke.

  • Avoid working on damp woods or highly resinous woods such as pine or cedar.

• Wood slice is tiny

  For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

• Wood slice is very big

  When the wood slice is too big, it can be hard to get a good angle and be comfortable with the process. Two options here can include using a turntable or an art easel.

  If you still find the piece is too large for either option, try proping it on the wall and burning.

  Remember to take a lot of breaks to avoid any pains.

Tool and Equipment Troubles

• Tip Not Heating Properly

  Cause: Faulty tool, loose connection, or dirt build-up.
  

  Solution:

  • Check the power cord and make sure all connections are secure.

  • Clean the tip. Visit the following post for different ways on how to do that: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

  • If you are using an interchangeable nib, ensure that it is properly installed. To learn more on which nib you have, check out: Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

  • If the tool continues to malfunction, consider replacing the tip.

  • If you still don't have any luck contact the manufacturer for further information.

• Tool Tip Overheating

  Cause: Using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Use multiple tools or tips to switch out and give each time to cool.

• Entire Pen Overheating

  Cause: Low quality tool or using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Get a better tool. Check out out favourite tools here: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

  • Wear finger protection, a half glove, or whole hand protection

Design and Transferring Issues

• I don't know what/how to draw

  You don’t need to know how to draw if you want to try out pyrography. Below are some options for you to get started:

  • Grab some free templates here.

  • Join Burn Club for FREE to get even more free monthly goodies.

  • Visit The Templates Store for even more designs including royalty free ones!

  • Check out our Community Books full of templates!

• How do I get the designs onto wood?

  There are two main ways to get designs onto wood:

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Heat

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Using Heat

• My transfer lines are not coming off the wood

  If you are left with lines from transferring your design, check out this blog post for ways to help you remove them: How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Troubleshooting in pyrography is all part of the creative process. Don’t let a little smoke or uneven lines get in the way of your masterpiece! With the tips and fixes from this guide, you’re now equipped to tackle those pesky issues and get back to making beautiful, detailed woodburned art. Remember, every artist faces challenges—it's how you handle them that helps you grow.

If you come across any issues we didn’t address, feel free to drop a comment in the section below, and we’ll do our best to help out.

Keep practicing, stay patient, and most importantly, have fun with your craft.

Happy burning!

Branding Irons: Traditional vs. Electric

Branding irons are a tool used to burn designs into wood or other materials. When it comes to branding irons, there are two main types: traditional branding irons and electric branding irons.

A traditional branding iron is typically heated with fire (i.e. on a stove top) or with a torch.

Anf an electrical branding iron which uses electricity to heat the iron to a consistent temperature.

Each type has its own set of pros and cons though, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences. I own an electric branding iron and have used it time and time again to both add the Wood Burn Corner logo to art pieces, and to brand other products.

Traditional Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Cost-effective - Traditional branding irons are often less expensive than their electric counterparts.

2. Customizable - You can easily create custom branding irons with unique designs, initials, or logos to add a personal touch to your work.

3. Portable - They are usually small and easy to transport, making them ideal for artists and craftspeople who work in different locations.

4. No power required - They don't require electricity, making them ideal for use in remote locations or areas with limited power access. You just need a heat source. Many people heat them with a blow torch or their stove top.

Cons:

1. Limited precision - Traditional branding irons require more skill and practice to achieve precise, detailed designs. The temperature may not be the same consistently for every burn.

2. Time-consuming - They require heating over an open flame, which can be time-consuming and inconvenient.

3. Risk of burns - Traditional branding irons can be dangerous, as they require heating over an open flame and can cause burns if not handled properly.

Electric Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Precise designs - They allow for precise and detailed designs, making them ideal for professionals who need high-quality results.

2. Consistent heat - They heat up quickly and maintain a consistent temperature. This makes it much faster and easier when needing to brand multiple products.

3. Time-saving - Electric branding irons require some heating time, but tend to be so quicker because they don’t require heating between each burn.

4. Safer - They don't require an open flame to heat up.

Cons:

1. Expensive - Electric branding irons are generally more expensive than traditional branding irons.

2. Limited customization - They may not allow for as much customization as traditional branding irons, as they often come with fixed designs or logos or sizes.

3. Power required - They require electricity to function, which can be limiting in remote locations or areas with limited power access.

4. Less portable - Electric branding irons are often larger and less portable than traditional branding irons.

In conclusion, both traditional and electric branding irons have their own set of pros and cons, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences.

Consider the level of precision you need, the amount of time you have, your budget, and your power access when making your choice between traditional and electric branding irons.

I have loved my electrical one, but can also see why having one I can heat up on my stovetop would be useful. Either way, it is certainly faster for branding branding than traditional pyrography. (See what I did there?)

How to Manifest Your Business Goals

Manifesting business goals involves applying the principles of the law of attraction to draw in the success, opportunities, and resources needed to achieve them. While some may dismiss it as fluff, it can genuinely lead to life-changing results. Even if you're skeptical about the 'magic' of manifesting, consider the logical aspect: regularly reminding yourself of your goals and maintaining a positive, motivated mindset helps keep you on track and fuels your drive to succeed.

Here are some steps you can take to manifest your business goals. They are not set in stone. Make them work for you. This is what has worked for us!

Set clear and specific goals

Define your business goals clearly and specifically, and write them down. Be specific about what you want to achieve, and by when. Check out our blog post on how to clarify your goals: Focus Five - The 5 Things That Describe Your Business

Visualize your success

Use visualization techniques to see yourself achieving your business goals. Imagine yourself already in possession of the resources, opportunities, and success that you desire. Basia loves creating Pinterest mood/vision boards to encapsulate her goals, and Rachel loves visualizing through a hand written goal list. Do what works for you!

Remind yourself daily what your goals are

• A fun idea is to create a vision board. Place the board somewhere you see every day, like your office or bedroom.

• Or, make a digital one! Leave it to the Pinterest Queen, Basia, to use Pinterest as her digital vision board to collect images that inspire and motivate her, and words that speak to her. She created her own affirmations, like this one here, (click here to see them), which then are easily enabled onto a phone, as a widget via Pinterest (they can even can rotate hourly on a daily basis) so every time you see your phone, you are reminded about what you want!

• Make a digital collage and use it as as a screen saver.

• Write them out and repeat them each morning to help reinforce them in your mind.

• Write your goals on small index cards or sticky notes and carry them with you or place them around your workspace for constant reminders.

• Journal daily

• Use a habit tracker or planner to note down daily actions that align with your goals. Checking off progress will keep your goals top of mind.

• Spend a few minutes each day visualizing yourself achieving your goals. Set an alarm if you are busy or forgetful, like me.

• Share your goals with a friend, partner, or mentor who can help remind you and keep you accountable.

Practice gratitude

Be grateful for what you already have, and focus on the positive aspects of your business. This will help you maintain a positive and optimistic mindset, which is essential for manifesting success. Not only is it essential for manifesting success, but it also points out your current successes, which is so important. Rachel calls these her “Ta-Da List.”

Take action

While manifestation involves visualization and positive thinking, it's also important to take action towards your goals. Be proactive in seeking out opportunities and taking steps towards achieving your goals. Even taking the smallest steps towards reaching your goals is better than taking none. Rachel says “if it seems too big, then make the next step smaller, and do that.” Just keep going.

Surround yourself with positivity

Surround yourself with people and things that inspire and motivate you. This can include reading books or listening to podcasts that focus on success, networking with other business owners who share your goals, and creating a positive work environment. Basia and Rachel have weekly chats, where this happens, and it makes all the difference. Choose people who are turly in your corner! There are plenty in this community who would love to be a positive accountability partner to you. Just ask.

Let go of limiting beliefs

Let go of any limiting beliefs that may be holding you back. This can include negative self-talk, fear of failure, or a belief that success is not possible. This can be hard (like really hard), but whenever it pops up, remember that, it is the audacity to try that is what makes most successful people stand out from the rest, not necessarily talent. Don’t let yourself stop you.

Remember that manifesting success takes time and effort, but by staying focused on your goals, maintaining a positive attitude, and taking action towards your goals, you can manifest the success you desire in your business.

Digitizing Your Wood Slice for Extra Revenue

In today’s digital age, pyrography artists have more opportunities than ever to expand their reach and monetize their art beyond traditional sales. By digitizing your wood art, you can transform physical creations into digital assets, opening the door to a variety of new revenue streams. Instead of just selling a design once, you now have to options to sell it numerous times in numerous ways.

Whether you're creating high-resolution scans or professional photographs of your work, digitization allows you to share, sell, and promote your art on a global scale.

So, how do you decide if you want to take photos or scan your art?

When deciding between scanning and photographing a woodburned wood slice, there are several factors to consider, as both methods offer distinct advantages and disadvantages:

1. Quality of Detail:

• Scanning: Scanners capture very high-resolution images with consistent lighting, making them ideal for showcasing intricate details like fine lines or subtle shading in pyrography.

• Photography: A high-quality camera with proper lighting can capture detailed textures, giving a more three-dimensional look to the woodburned surface. The texture of the wood, shadows, and natural imperfections will be more visible, which can enhance the piece's appearance but might require careful lighting to avoid glare or overexposure.

2. Colour Accuracy:

• Scanning: Scanners generally provide more accurate colour reproduction, especially with flat artwork. However, woodburned slices can be uneven, and the light from the scanner might not capture the natural wood grain or the depth of the burn as authentically as a camera could.

• Photography: Depending on your camera and lighting setup, you might have to tweak settings or adjust in post-production to achieve colour accuracy, especially if natural lighting changes or creates warm or cool tones. Personally, this one was my toughest issue. After experimenting with what I thought was consistent lighting, the photos were not all exactly the same and this drove me crazy! I set up a light in my living room and blacked out the sun, but it was such a hassle and took over my entire living space…

3. Lighting:

• Scanning: The lighting is always even and consistent, which is excellent for avoiding shadows and glare but can flatten the appearance of the wood's texture.

• Photography: Photography gives you full control over lighting, allowing you to experiment with different angles and intensities. This can highlight the texture of the woodburning but requires careful setup to avoid shadows or highlights from uneven lighting. Same with the colour accuracy though… If you're not sure what you’re doing, this is a hard one to get consistent.

4. Ease of Use:

• Scanning: A scanner is easy to use for smaller pieces. You simply place the wood slice on the bed, scan it, and get a high-resolution image. For larger pieces, this can be limiting as the wood slice might not fit properly. However, there are companies that offer large-format scanning services, which are ideal for digitizing oversized or three-dimensional pieces.

• Photography: Photography gives you more flexibility for larger or irregularly shaped pieces like wood slices. You can photograph the piece in natural light or a controlled studio environment. However, it takes more time and effort to set up the shot, manage lighting, and ensure focus. Also, consistency is key and this may be difficult if you do not have a studio set up…

5. File Size and Versatility:

• Scanning: Scanners can create very large, high-resolution files, which is useful if you want to print the image at a larger scale. However, the files might be unnecessarily large for online sharing.

• Photography: A photograph can be just as high-resolution, depending on your camera, but it allows for more flexibility in post-editing for various uses like social media or print.

6. Textural Appearance:

• Scanning: Scanning tends to flatten the texture of the wood, making it appear more like a 2D image. This is great for many uses such as stickers, prints etc…

• Photography: Photography, especially with angled lighting, can better capture the 3D texture of the woodburning and the natural grain of the wood slice. Depending on the look you are going for, this can be a hit or a miss!

Generally, if you're aiming for a flat, highly detailed reproduction (for example, to use in print), scanning might be the better option. However, for a more dynamic and natural feel that captures the texture and shape of the wood slice, a high-quality photograph would likely be more effective.

My art is digitized. Now what?

1. Prints: Digitize the wood burned design and create high-quality prints to sell as posters, art prints, or greeting cards.

2. Stickers: Turn the design into stickers, which can be sold individually, in sets, or as part of themed collections. Here is a great example that Chelsea Glade of @oopschelseaarted (formerly pickleshopcuriosity) made.

3. Digital Downloads: Offer a digital download that customers can purchase and print at home.

4. Merchandise: Create merchandise such as T-shirts, mugs, phone cases, and tote bags through print-on-demand (POD) services. There are tons of options available, always get a sample before selling to ensure great quality.

5. Calendars: Incorporate the design(s) into a calendar, either as part of a collection of wood burned art or as a unique feature for a particular month.

6. Gift Wrap and Tags: Create gift wrap paper and gift tags featuring the wood burned design.

7. Journals and Notebooks: Print the design on the covers of journals, notebooks, and planners.

8. Home Decor: Produce items like cushions, blankets, or tapestries with the wood burned design printed on them. There are may POD services that can do this!

9. Books and Bookmarks: Use the design for custom books, book covers, bookmarks and more, either for personal use or to sell to others. Heidi Clinite of @ember_maypop wrote a children’s book called Sassy Susie Sasquatch Sets Sail and used her wood burned art for the cover, as well as throughout the entire book!

10. Art Prints: Enhance the design with digital art techniques and offer as limited edition art prints.

11. Custom Stationery: Create stationery sets including letterheads, envelopes, and notepads with the design.

12. Wall Decals: Turn the design(s) into removable wall decals.

13. Puzzles: Create custom jigsaw puzzles featuring the wood burned design.

14. Fabric Patterns: Use the design to create fabric patterns, which can then be sold to crafters and designers.

15. Digital Wallpapers: Offer the design(s) as a digital wallpaper for computers and mobile devices.

With the growing technology, the options to make extra revenue with your art are continuously growing. By embracing digital tools, you can scale your creative business while staying true to the craftsmanship that makes wood art so unique.

What is the difference between Wood Burning and Pyrography?

Wood burning and pyrography are two terms that are often used interchangeably, but there is a slight difference between the two.

We prefer the term 'pyrography' but recognize that 'wood burning' is more commonly understood so we use both terms interchangeably across all our communication platforms—ranging from our website to verbal interactions and written materials—to ensure clarity and accessibility for all our audience.

Wood burning is the general term used to describe the process of using a heated tool to burn designs onto wood.

It is a subset of pyrography.

Wood burning is often associated with the traditional use of a heated tool (like a wood burning pen) to create art on wooden items. It typically implies a handcrafted approach and may be perceived as more craft-oriented.

This term is often used to describe the process of burning simple designs onto wood, such as lettering or basic shapes. It involves less precise designs and basic patterns.

Pyrography, on the other hand, is a more specialized form of wood burning with more diverse techniques and designs.

It is considered a form of art, and it requires more skill and precision than simple wood burning.

Pyrography typically involves using a specialized tool with temperature control, various tips, and techniques such as shading to create intricate designs.

Pyrography artists may also use stencils or transfer/graphite paper to create a design on the wood surface before burning it as well as hot metal brushes, combs or other objects to create texture.

While both wood burning and pyrography involve burning designs onto a burnable surface using a heated tool,

pyrography is a more intricate and specialized form of wood burning

that involves creating detailed artwork and designs using a variety of techniques and specialized tools.

Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

The difference between a wire tip/nib burner and a solid tip/nib burner primarily lies in their design and functionality.

Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Wire Tip/nib Burner:

• Design: Utilizes a pen-like device with tips made of a looped wire or a wire nib. On some pens, these tips can be changed out, allowing for a wide variety of tip shapes and sizes (more on interchangeable nibs at the end). They are usually thinner and easier to hold, as the grip is located closer to the nib, allowing the pen to feel like an actual pen making it ideal for comfort, especially if you are burning for longer periods at a time.

• Temperature Control: Wire tip burners typically offer more precise temperature control, which can be adjusted quickly. This allows for quicker and more detailed and varied shading techniques.

• Durability: Generally these pens are more delicate than a solid nib making them more susceptible to damage over time. Proper care and a lighter hand will help them last longer.

• Learning Curve: Might have a slightly steeper learning curve due to the delicacy of the wire tips and the precision required in handling them.

• Heat Up Time: Generally, wire tips heat up and cool down much more quickly than solid tips.

Solid Tip/Nib Burner:

• Design: Features a pen-like device with a solid brass or copper tip. The variety is usually more limited compared to a wire nib, the pen is thicker and clunkier to hold and the grip is usually further away from the nib making it slightly more difficult to control, especially if burning for longer periods of time).

• Temperature Control: Solid tip burners can be less precise in temperature control compared to wire tip burners, and adjustments may take longer to affect the tip temperature. However, because they are thick and solid, they do retain the heat making them ideal for large projects that require a lot of dark burning.

• Durability: Solid tips tend to be more durable than wire tips because they are less fragile and less susceptible to bending or breaking.

• Learning Curve: For beginners, solid tip burners might be easier to start with due to their durability and less delicate handling requirements.

• Heat Up Time: Solid tips generally take longer to heat up and cool down than wire tips, but, as stated earlier, they retain their hear better than a wire nib does.

Application:

• Wire Tip Burners are preferred for detailed art, fine shading, and where quick temperature adjustment is necessary.

• Solid Tip Burners are often used for more basic designs, outlines, and when learning the basics of pyrography as well as covering large areas with shading.

which one gets hotteR?

In terms of reaching a higher temperature, both types can be capable of very high temperatures suitable for pyrography. The key difference lies in how quickly they reach these temperatures and how precisely those temperatures can be controlled during the work.

Wire tip burners generally offer faster heat up times and more precise control, making it seem like they can get hotter faster, but in terms of maximum temperature capabilities, it's more about the specific equipment and its design rather than the tip type alone.

The maximum temperature that a wire tip burner or a solid tip burner can reach often depends more on the specific model and manufacturer rather than the type of tip itself.

However, there are some general characteristics related to how each type manages and conducts heat that can influence their operating temperatures:

Wire Tip Burners are designed for precise control and can reach very high temperatures quickly due to their thin wire construction, which has less mass to heat. This design allows for rapid heat transfer and adjustment, making them suitable for intricate work that requires changing temperatures for different effects. Because of their design, wire tip burners can effectively operate at both low and high temperatures, making them versatile for a range of detailed work.

Solid Tip Burners, on the other hand, have a larger mass in their tips, which means they may take longer to reach the desired temperature. However, once heated, they can retain heat longer due to the larger thermal mass. Solid tips can also reach high temperatures, but the rate of heat increase and the precision in temperature control may not match that of wire tip burners. The heat distribution over the solid tip is more uniform, which can be advantageous for certain types of shading and consistent line work.

Interchangeable nibs on wire tip burners:

Interchangeable nibs for wood burning tools allow artists to switch between different tip styles for various effects in their projects. These nibs can range from fine points for detailed work to larger, flat tips for shading or transferring images.

Pros: Interchangeability offers flexibility and creativity, enabling users to achieve a wide range of textures and depths in their art without needing multiple tools. This versatility is particularly valuable for artists looking to explore different techniques or work on projects that require both detailed and broad work.

Cons: Interchangeable nibs, while versatile, can have drawbacks such as requiring time to switch between nibs, which might interrupt the workflow. There's also a learning curve in mastering different nib types for optimal use. Additionally, the delicate nature of some wire nibs can lead to breakage if not handled with care. Exercise caution when tightening to ensure a complete connection, or your heating may not be even. High-quality interchangeable nibs might come with a higher initial cost, although they offer long-term flexibility and savings from not needing multiple dedicated tools.

In summary, we recommend starting out pyrography with a solid tip/nib burner (the Versa Tool from Walnut Hollow is our favorite! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15).

These are a good basic tool to have in your toolkit and some artists never even upgrade to another tool…

If you plan on burning often, want a faster heat-up time, consider a wire tip burner. Check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing a new tool.

Woodcare 101: Preserving Your Pyrography Art

Pyrography is a beautiful art form that turns simple pieces of wood into timeless works of art. But like all forms of art, your pyrography projects are subject to the ravages of time, exposure, and wear.

Luckily, there are proven ways to protect your artwork and keep it looking as vibrant as the day you made it (or purchased it!).

Rules of thumb:

Keep Out of Moisture

• Especially if unfinished, any water (drips or splashes) can leave permanent marks on your wood. Even a sweaty fingerprint can linger on the surface.

• Enough general moisture can warp and bend the wood. The thinner your wood slice, the less moisture or humidity in the air it takes to start reshaping the wood.

• Long exposure to moisture can cause warping so hang your wood slices away from kitchen sinks, outdoors or any bathrooms…

• DO NOT place wood in dishwashers or let them soak in the kitchen sink

Keep Out Of Sunshine

• Sun will fade finished and unfinished wood slices. Keep out of direct sun to help prolong the inevitable.

• Burning deeply will help keep the artwork looking crisp. Shading and light burning will fade much faster.

Choose the Right Wood for your project

Your first line of defense against wear and tear starts with the type of wood you choose for your projects. Hardwoods like oak and birch generally last longer and are less susceptible to damage compared to softwoods like pine. If possible, go for kiln-dried wood, which has reduced moisture content, making it less prone to warping and cracking.

Check out this blog post for more information on wood: Best Wood for Pyrography

Sealing the Wood

Sealing your pyrography artwork with a finish adds a layer of protection against moisture, dirt, and UV rays. It also enhances the visual elements of your design by adding a glossy or matte finish.

If your artwork is going to be displayed outdoors or in a sunny location, consider using a UV-protective sealant. This helps in preventing the colors from fading and the wood from turning gray. For added moisture protection, particularly for outdoor pieces, use marine-grade sealants. Some resin’s also protect your wood from the elements. BE AWARE! Even with the most porotection you can apply, overtime, the weather will alter the look and colour of the wood, especially in harsher climates prone to freezing or humidity.

Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

keeping your cutting boards, wooden spoons and other functional art looking like it did on day one is possible with a little bit of maintenance.

To prevent discoloration, cracking, warping and fading, follow the instructions below:

• Keep away from excessive moisture (do not soak the product or run it through the dishwasher): hand wash only

• Wax or oil your products: the more you use your stuff, the more you will need to oil it. I recommend oiling once a month (or every other month) for products that are used daily. Use the colour and texture of the wood to judge when to oil; if it looks lighter and dry, it’s time. Oiling or waxing your wood will enhance the richness and prevent any cracking. Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

Handling and Cleaning

Always handle your pyrography art with clean and dry hands to avoid transferring oils and dirt onto the wood surface. To clean your artwork, gently wipe it down with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using water or cleaning products as they can penetrate the sealant and stain/damage the wood.

Storage Tips

If you need to store your pyrography artwork:

• Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• Avoid storing it in damp or humid areas to prevent mold and warping.

• Consider wrapping it in acid-free paper for extra protection.

• Protect the corners of your art by wrapping with pieces of cardboard and taping them secure.

Your pyrography artwork is not just a piece of wood; it's a piece of you. Like any valuable object, it deserves to be treated with care and respect. Proper preservation techniques will help you enjoy your creations for many years to come.

Burning is Art. Art is Therapy.

While many people enjoy pyrography as a hobby or artistic pursuit, it can also be a powerful tool for promoting relaxation and mental well-being.

“Burning is art. Art is therapy”

Rachel Struass

Here are some reasons pyrography can be used to support mental health:

Stress Relief:

One of the benefits of pyrography is its ability to promote stress relief. When engaging in this activity, individuals are often able to disconnect from the stressors in their daily lives and focus solely on their creative pursuits. It can provide a distraction from everyday life. When you're focused on the activity, you may be less likely to ruminate on negative thoughts. This can help reduce stress levels and promote a sense of calm.

Mindfulness:

Pyrography also encourages mindfulness, which is the practice of being present and fully engaged in the moment. When working on a pyrography project, individuals must focus their attention on the details of the design, which can help them remain mindful and present. Wood burning requires us to go slower than we are used to with other mediums. This slowed down pace can induce a state of "flow," which is characterized by complete absorption in the task at hand.

Improved Mood:

Studies have shown that engaging in creative activities can improve mood and promote a sense of well-being. Pyrography is no exception. By providing a creative outlet, this art form can help individuals feel a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, leading to improved mood.

Increased Self-Expression:

Pyrography allows individuals to express themselves in a unique and personal way. By choosing their own designs and colors, individuals can create pieces that are reflective of their personal style and preferences. Wood burning allowing you to express your emotions, thoughts, and ideas in a nonverbal way. This can help increase self-expression and boost confidence.

Sense of Community:

Here, at Wood Burn Corner we are all about community and sharing each others art with the world. Being part of Burn Club can provide a sense of belonging and social support, which can be beneficial for mental health. We support and healp each other through the ups and downs of learning a new skill and art form as well the trials and tribulations of owning a creative business. If you want to know how to get more involved in the community, click here!

Pyrography is an excellent activity for promoting relaxation, mindfulness, and mental well-being. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced artist, engaging in this activity can provide a range of mental health benefits, including stress relief, improved mood, and increased self-expression.

Now, pair up pyrography with radial symmetry and it becomes a whole new world of practicing mindfulness!

Radial Symmetry patterns, also commonly known as a Mandala, have been recognized by psychology as a therapeutic tool. Swiss psychologist Carl Jung said they’re like representations of our mind. He thought they made it easier for us to concentrate on, transform, and internalize subconscious thoughts. His belief was that we project our emotions and thoughts into the mandala designs.

“For me, a radial symmetry pattern, or a mandala inspired art piece, is the end result of a mindfulness journey.”

-Basia Chmielowic

These repetitive patterns are what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!).

It is a form of meditation for me as the repetition of each pattern allows me not to think about the end result, but rather a focus on each small section at a time.

Repeating the same design helps me zone out and immerse myself in the moment.

Two ways to learn how to draw your own mandala designs:

1. Read:

Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes as well as pyrography basics.

The Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco & art nouveau movements. No pyro information but links to resources to get you started.

These two items each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with. Either way, you will learn to create endless unique radial symmetry designs!

2. Watch:

A step-by-step video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns and how to wood burn them:

$10.00

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Or the video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns without the pyro part:

$8.00

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Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist

There are many surfaces one can burn on when it comes to pyrography. From egg shell to canvas, the world is your oyster! One rule of thumb to stick to is burning only on natural surfaces (versus human made or chemically treated items). Grab your Free Safety Guide to stay safe while burning. If you like experimenting, you can check out the blog post: Pyrography on Odd Objects.

The most common surface for pyrography is on wood!

Wood is usually readily available and comes in many different shapes, sizes, and colors It makes for a great canvas for wood burning. There are many different species of wood to choose from. Read on to learn more about wood or check out the Top 9 Wood Species to Burn On according to us and the wood burning community! There are also different ways wood reacts to burning on depending on how it was cut…

Always be mindful of what you are burning on. Some wood smoke is poisonous: check out the blog post about Which Woods to Avoid Burning On.

Wood Basics

Hardwood verus Softwood

The main difference between the two is not necessarily the density of the wood but rather the type of tree they come from.

Hardwoods are usually broad-leaved (deciduous) trees - the ones that loose their leaves every fall. Examples include ash, beech, birch, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut.

Softwoods are evergeen (coniferous) trees - the tree’s that have needles and cones that stay green year round. Examples include basswood, cedar, cypress, fir, pine, spruce, and redwood.

Generally, softwoods are cheaper because they grow faster and in abundance. Because of this, they are less durable so they are used more for building materials like lumber, plywood, and paper products. Hardwood is more common in high quality furniture, decks and flooring due to its hardness and durability.

The softer the wood is, it can be said that the easier it is to burn on. However, because of the way these tree’s woods differ, they make for very different canvases when burning on them using pyrography techniques…

Softwood tree’s (typically evergreens) create sap. Sap is not our friend in pyrography, especially when first learning the craft. Very often, common woods like pine are sappy and tricky to burn on. Although I have heard of some artists enjoying burning on pine, we would recommend trying a different wood for your first time.

WOOD Slices

The way a log is cut will change your canvas shape and the way your tool works on the wood’s surface.

As you can see here, the edge grain is the outer edge of your slice.

The end grain is the end of a log. This cut is vertical (when looking at a cut tree, like in this photo of the log on the ground) and typically gives you a circular wood slice with bark all around the edges (or none if trimmed off). The grain here is visible in rings.

A face grain cut is the log cut horizontally (on a log laying on the ground) which can give you square or rectangular wood slice canvases and only two edges will be covered in bark (or none if those are trimmed off). The wood grain is visible across the surface and generally spans horizontally across the wood. The wood is usually referred to as planks with this cut.

Wood Grain

and how it Affects pyrography

A common way to explain the grain of wood is using a handful of straws. Renee of @it’sdavidandrenee brought this up at our Pyrography Summit as an example to explain the way finishes (ie. paints, stains etc…) react when applied depending on the way the wood is cut.

This is also true for pyrography. The grain of the wood can affect the flow of your tools on the surface, the texture and appearance of the burned lines, as well as the overall quality of the final artwork.

Imagine the straws as a log. When you cut an end grain piece, you will usually get a circular shape. This makes all the “straws holes” face up. They are porous and will suck in any liquids, stains, paints etc… Burning on this is slightly harder so generally you need more heat and a consistent speed.

Cut it the other way, face grain, and you get the length of the straws. Burning along the grain (following the grain, up and down in the photo to the right) is easier as the nib of the tool usually falls into a grain groove and burn along it. Burn against the grain (side to side) and you can get little blobs of burn, or stop marks as you move across - try turning your heat down and have more of a consistent speed. Look ahead for any grain lines so you can adjust your speed. Reduce your pressure and let the burner do the work as you just gently, but firmly, guide it.

So what wood is the best to burn on?

We have compiled a list of woods that we enjoy burning on for a variety of reasons. These include Amazon Associate links to great options for these particular wood varieties. In a nutshell, below are our top 9 woods for pyrography.

You can check out this blog post to see why: Best Wood for Pyrography

1. Basswood

2. Cherry

3. Birch

4. Aspen

5. Walnut

6. Maple

7. Sourwood

8. Poplar

9. Cedar

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Want to learn more about pyrography?

Join the Burn Club Community

or check out this blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible (especially light shading) so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece. Learn more about how to avoid this here: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

***Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, or if you sanded in the wrong direction, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

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Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe. Always look for the words “food safe”

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

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General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable. However, polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects..
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand. We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice and find it lasts the longest without clouding or yellowing. Also, any information you may need to finsish a project is easy to find on their website and if you are really stuck, the customer service is absolutely amazing!

Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin. To learn more about this, check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

Pyrography + Sustainability

In addition to being a form of artistic expression, pyrography can also be used to promote sustainability and environmental awareness.

Keep reading to see some of the ways on how pyrography can do that!

One: Sourcing sustainable materials

Sourcing your wood from companies who care about the environment ensures the wood is harvested with minimal environmental impact.

Here’s what to look out for:

1. Sustainability Practices of the Supplier:

Review the company's environmental policies. Look for transparency in how they manage the forests they harvest from, such as replanting efforts, reduced chemical usage, and preservation of wildlife habitats. Check if the supplier follows carbon-neutral operations, uses renewable energy, or has sustainability reports available to the public.

2. FSC Certification:

Look for wood that is Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified. This certification ensures the wood comes from responsibly managed forests that provide environmental, social, and economic benefits. FSC-certified forests promote biodiversity and prevent deforestation.

3. PEFC Certification:

The Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) is another global certification that guarantees sustainable forest management. PEFC-certified products ensure wood is sourced ethically and sustainably.

4. Avoiding Illegal Logging:

Ensure the company complies with regulations like the Lacey Act (in the U.S.) or the EU Timber Regulation to avoid wood that comes from illegal or harmful logging practices.

Here are some alternative options for wood sourcing:

Reclaimed or Salvaged Wood:

Sourcing reclaimed wood from old buildings, shipping pallets, or other recycled sources is an excellent sustainable option. This method reduces the need for new wood and minimizes waste. HOWEVER! It is really important to know what you are burning on as some woods can emit very harmful chemicals when heated, especially ones treated with chemicals. This is really hard to tell sometimes so this is not always the best option… For a list of woods not to burn, check out Common Wood Types To Avoid. Always follow the safety precautions set out by the manufacturer and check out our Safety Guide for best practices when it comes to buying anything.

Local Sourcing:

Buying from local suppliers reduces the carbon footprint associated with transporting wood over long distances. Supporting local woodworkers or sawmills can ensure more transparency about where the wood originates.

TWO: Promoting Environmental awareness through words and design

One way to use pyrography in a sustainable way is by creating designs that promote environmental awareness. For example, you could create a design of a forest with the message "Save the Trees" or a design of a sea turtle with the message "Protect Our Forests." These designs not only showcase the beauty of nature, but also help to raise awareness about the importance of conservation and protecting our planet.

By showcasing the natural world in their art, pyrographers can help to inspire others to appreciate and protect the environment. A mountain landscape, for example, could inspire someone to take a hike and experience the beauty of nature firsthand.

THREE: Promoting Environmental awareness through Events, auctions and donations

To promote environmental awareness through events, auctions, and donations, focus on creating eco-conscious experiences that engage and educate participants. Host pyro workshops that teach wood burning techniques paired with sustainability and green living.

Organize green auctions, featuring eco-friendly art or services, and partner with local businesses to offer environmentally responsible products.

Raise funds through donation-based events or crowdfunding campaigns for environmental causes, and encourage corporate partnerships for sustainable challenges. Ensure your events are eco-friendly by reducing waste, using digital or plantable invitations, and incorporating education booths or online content to spread awareness.

Parts of a sale can be donated to companies that support the environment. We love to donate a part of all our sales to One Tree Planted which plants tree’s around the world! To this date, we have donated over 15,000 tree’s. Our donations have planted trees in places like the Andes as well as 10,000 fruit trees in India, where not only will it help with air quality, but will also provide food and jobs for people of that region.

Four: Functional Sustainability

Pyrography can also be used to create functional items that promote sustainability. Here is a list of some items you may burn that are also functional:

• Kitchen utensils (spoons, spatulas, cutting boards, and serving trays…)

• Coasters

• Jewelry or trinket boxes

• Serving platters

• Wall hooks or hangers

• Coatracks

• Plant markers or garden stakes

• Phone or tablet stands

• Candle holders

• Picture frames

• Serving bowls

• Storage crates

• Bookmarks

By using sustainable materials and creating items that can be used again and again, pyrographers can help to reduce waste and promote eco-friendly practices.

Five: Keeping It Natural

A natural wood slice is a biodegradable material that can return to the earth without causing harm, especially when untreated. Wood art slices (or those with function, such as in the above paragraph) can be kept natural or use only natural stains or finishes (more on this down below).

I recently learned about the Cradle to Cradle philosophy which focuses on designing products that can be reused or naturally decomposed, promoting a closed-loop system where nothing is wasted.

For further reading, the original concept is explored in Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things by William McDonough and Michael Braungart, which outlines the framework in detail.

What can you do to make your wood slice sustainable?

Here are some alternatives to finishes and mediums often used with pyrography:

Finishing Options

Many pyrography artists opt for natural, non-toxic finishes like beeswax, linseed oil, or plant-based varnishes. These finishes not only protect the artwork but also reduce harmful chemical emissions and protect indoor air quality.

Hanging Options

A common solution to hanging wood slice art is to add a hanger on the back. This little metal piece can easily be added to majority of wood, however, it would have to be removed at the end of the lifecycle of that slice. A great option, if you have the tools, access to them, is to create a keyhole style hanger!

Alternative Stains

Natural stains are a great way to enhance pyrography projects while maintaining a commitment to sustainability. Unlike conventional wood stains, which often contain synthetic chemicals and solvents, natural stains are made from plant-based, food-safe ingredients. Here are a few popular options for creating and using natural stains in pyrography:

• Coffee or Tea Stains: Brewed coffee or tea can be used as a stain to give wood a rich, earthy tone. The colour intensity can be adjusted depending on the strength of the brew and the number of coats applied.

• Vinegar and Steel Wool: Soaking steel wool in vinegar creates a chemical reaction that can stain wood a weathered, aged look. The longer the steel wool sits in the vinegar, the darker the effect.

• Beet Juice or Other Vegetable Dyes: Natural vegetable dyes, like beet juice, spinach, or onion skins, can be used to create colourful wood stains. These are made by boiling the vegetable matter in water and applying the resulting liquid to the wood.

• Turmeric Stain: Turmeric powder can be mixed with water or alcohol to create a yellow stain. It's often used for giving wood a golden, warm tone.

• Walnut Stain: Boiling walnut hulls in water creates a rich, dark brown stain. Walnut stains have been used for centuries in traditional woodworking.

• Blackberry or Blueberry Juice: These fruits can be boiled down to create a stain that imparts a purple or reddish hue to the wood.

Natural Paints

Natural paints can be an excellent addition to pyrography projects, especially if you're looking for sustainable, eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic paints. Like natural stains, these paints are made from non-toxic, biodegradable ingredients, and they can add vibrant colours or subtle accents to wood-burned art without harming the environment. There are more and more options available, just make sure to read the fine print. Some companies like to use words like “natural” and “organic” or “earth” but they do not come chemical free. Another option is to go the DIY route. There are loads of tutorials on how to make your own paint.

Pyrography is a versatile and beautiful medium that can be used to promote sustainability and environmental awareness. Whether by using wood from sustainable companies, creating designs that promote conservation (or conversation), or making functional items that can be used again and again, pyrographers can help to reduce waste, protect our planet, and celebrate the natural world.

Thank you and happy burning!

How to Make a Keyhole Hanger by Hand

One way to hang your wood slice art is by using a keyhole hanger (also known as a mounting slot), which allows the slice to be hung flush against the wall.

In this guide, I will provide step-by-step instructions on how to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice.

By following these simple steps, you can create a unique and personalized way to display your wood slice art.

This method uses a hand held router (which you can borrow from someone or rent from your local tool library if available!) along with a specific bit called the keyhole bit.

You can also use a router table if you have one.

Please note, any links below are affiliate links to the exact tools I am actually using and love!

Materials needed:

• Your wood slice

• Pencil and eraser

• Measuring tape

• Clamps or easy DIY guide: a straight edged scrap wood piece and nail gun or hammer and nails

• Sandpaper

• Router and a Tipped Keyhole Bit

Wood comes in all different sizes, thicknesses and shapes.

Measure the router bit with your wood slice to ensure the length is correct and doesn't go through your slice.

How to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice

Step 1: Determine the Placement of the Keyhole Hanger

Decide where you want to place the keyhole hanger on the back of the wood slice. Make sure it is centered and level. Use a pencil to mark the spot.

I like to measure 2 inches from the top of all my wood slices to ensure there is enough space for the hole and enough wood left at the top to keep the hole strong. If it is too close to the edge, the wood can split or crack.

Measuring a square or rectangle piece is easy, but rounds are a little trickier, especially if they are imperfect circles, ovals or other shapes…

My trick to measure a wood slice that is not a square or rectangle:

This is not a 100% exact method. Wood rounds are often imperfect and come in all kinds of unique shapes and sizes. What I like about the keyhole hanger technique is that when the slice is hanging, it’s flush against the wall. So even if your measurements were off slightly, the friction of the wood on the wall allows for some forgiveness in the levelling and you can tweak it a bit once it is up. For really stubborn pieces that you may have mismeasured and they really don’t hang level, you can apply a tiny amount of double sided sticky tape or even sticky tack to the back side to make it more level. Do not try adjusting the keyhole by making it bigger or longer as the structure of the wood will deteriorate when manipulated enough times… Also, know that any sticky substances on wood will stain in, but this will be on the back of the wood piece.

First measure the largest point across your wood slice.

Then take a square tool and roughly eyeball the level. I use the edge of the table that I am working as a guide, lining up the bottom of my square to the edge.

Once I draw a line up, 2 inches away from the tops, I test how it hangs before I drill a hole by holding it up on the mark I just made and roughly seeing if it hangs level.

step 2: make a quick guide (optional) and clamp down your slice

This DIY guide is optional because you can essentially free-hand the hole. I like to make the guide because it only takes seconds and then keeps my holes nice and straight.

Start by grabbing any scrap wood (ensure it has a straight edge - this edge will be your guide) and attach it to your artwork. I am nailing it in temporarily but you can use clamps if you do not have a nail gun (clamps get in the way a little which is why I prefer to nail it). If your wood slice is big enough, you can hang the clamps over the edge of the table, or clamp the guide AND the slice to the table for maximum stability.

First, I measure the distance from the furthest edge at the top, and then the bottom - this ensures that it’s level.

Make sure to measure for the size of your tool.

Tip: Once I measure everything out, before I nail down my guide, I line up the router to where I am about to drill the hole just to double check my measurements!

Ensure that the nail you choose will not go through your wood slice. I used a 23 gauge headless finishing nailer because the nails are small and short which make them easy to take off once complete and you don’t have a big nail hole after the guide comes off. You can simply hammer in two temporary nails (two so the guide stays in one spot - one at the top and one at the bottom of your scrap wood).

Once my guide is on, I clamp my art down to the table.

step 3: drill your hole

Now comes the fun part, drilling the hole.

Using the router, I line up my bit against my guide and over the mark I made on the wood slice and I drill a hole, but only straight down at first.

I like to slightly lean the edge of the tool on the guide, coming in on a bit of an angle so the weight and pressure of the tool is on the guide, not me trying to hold it up in position. If you are doing it freehand, make sure to keep a sturdy grip.

Once you've drilled your hole, your tool will lay flat on the wood.

The hole should be at least 1/4 inch deep so a nail can fit snugly in the slot, just make sure your wood is thick enough so the hole doesn’t go through.

With the bit inside the hole, move the router up, away from you, very slowly to create the nook for the nail to sit in.

Move slowly.

Once you have gone up about 3/4 of an inch, turn off your tool, wait for it to stop and remove the tool from the hole by carefully sliding the bit down and out of the hole at the bottom.

Step 4: Sand the Wood Slice

Use sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges around the drilled hole and the wood slice.

And voila! You made a keyhole hanger!

You can now hang your art, flush to a wall anywhere you like by sliding the wood slice onto a screw. Adjust the wood slice until it is level and centered on the screw.

Learn to Wood Burn + Make Your Own Radial Symmetry Patterns!

Art has long been recognized as a form of therapy that promotes relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. One specific form of art that has recently gained popularity for its therapeutic benefits is radial symmetry art, paired with pyrography, or wood burning.

Radial symmetry is a design technique where an image is divided into equal sections that radiate from a central point. This type of art can be found in nature, such as in the petals of a flower or the scales of a fish, and it can also be created by artists using various mediums. When drawing radial symmetry art, an individual can focus their attention on the repetition and balance of the design, which can promote a meditative state of mind and relieve stress.

Pyrography, or wood burning, involves using a heated tool to create designs on wood. When combined with radial symmetry art, the individual can transfer their design onto a wooden surface and use the pyrography tool to burn the design into the wood. The act of burning the design into the wood can be therapeutic in and of itself, as it requires focus, patience, and precision.

One of the benefits of using radial symmetry art and pyrography as a form of therapy is that it is accessible to individuals of all skill levels. The design can be as simple or complex as the individual desires, and the pyrography tool can be used to create varying degrees of shading and texture. The act of creating something with your own hands, regardless of the outcome, can be a powerful way to reduce stress and increase feelings of self-efficacy.

In addition to its therapeutic benefits, radial symmetry art and pyrography can also be a fun and creative hobby. The finished product can be used as a decorative piece or given as a personalized gift to a loved one.

Want to LEARN these TWO very CREATIVE + RELAXING ART FORMS?

Here are two was:

1. Read:

   Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates (Radial Symmetry Edition) offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes.

Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco and art nouveau movements.

These two books each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with.

2. Watch

DIY Radial Symmetry Patterns

$8.00

WHAT TO EXPECT

• Step-by-step instructions on how to create your own radial symmetry patterns!

RESOURCES AND TOOLS

If you don’t have any pyrography tools or materials and want to burn with us, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit blog post for resources and links on where to purchase everything you need to get wood burning.

All you need for drawing your own radial symmetry pattern is a piece of paper (or wood slice you want to burn on), pen/pencil, a compass (can be improvised if you dont have one), and a ruler (also optional)!

The combination of radial symmetry art and pyrography is a unique and rewarding form of therapy. By focusing on the repetition and balance of the design and using a heated tool to burn it into wood, individuals can experience a sense of relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. So why not try your hand at this therapeutic art form and see what you can create?

Happy DRAWING AND Burning!

Best Wood for Pyrography

Wood is the most common surface for pyrography! There are other surfaces you can burn on, but wood is available almost everywhere and is definitely a great place to start if you are new to wood burning.

Always look for unfinished, sanded smooth, and dried wood. These are musts for pyrography.

There are also some woods you should absolutely avoid and that list, you can find here.

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

And onto what you will want to burn on! Below are the top wood surfaces to burn on according to our own experiences as well as from polling hundreds of pyrographers in the community.

Please note there are affiliate links below. We always link to products we know and love and personally have used ourselves!

Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On

Basswood

Basswood is a very common wood species that is easy to find and easy to burn on.

It is a favorite amongst pyrographers because of its availability, light color (creating nice contrast with burn lines) and for the way it burns. It is easy and smooth to burn on.

The grain is visible, but still smooth so it doesn’t effect your burn as much as other woods.

The even, light color makes it the perfect canvas for wood burning. Oh and the color of the wood only darkens slightly when adding any oils or finishes. Other woods can get much darker.

It is easily found with the very classic tree-bark live-edge, making the perfect rustic rounds.

The bonus with basswood is that because it’s commonly available, it comes in loads of different shapes, sizes, live edge, no live edge, thick or thin, etc… We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15 - Walnut Hollow’s collection of Basswood are always sanded smooth and are ready to burn on:

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Cherry

Cherry is such a lovely wood to burn on. There are many variations (color and grain) which may be distracting for some, but for others, this adds character.

One slight downfall is that cherry contains some natural sap, which can release potentially irritating fumes when burned so please, as with any wood surface you are burning on, proceed with safety and caution.

I love cherry for it’s warm, reddish tone and rich colour. You can create beautifully detailed pyrography art on it at a slightly higher heat setting (or slower pace).

Be careful in adding any finishes (stains or even colourless oils and sealers), as cherry wood darkens quite a bit. You can still see the burn lines, but it decreases the contrast the pyrography marks make.

Here is an example of a cherry wood slice with resin on it. The colour is rich and beautiful but if your design has light shading, it could disappear after a finish is applied!

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Birch

Birch is a harder in structure, when it comes to pyrography, which means you either turn up the heat or move slower with it. Because it is a harder wood, it allows for incredible details.

Even though it is slightly harder to burn on, it still has beautiful qualities like the light blonde color, stunning white live edge bark and subtle grain lines that don’t interfere with the burning. It typically has a bright, creamy-white color or yellowish tint and a satin-like sheen to its finish which makes for nice contrast when burning.

Basia enjoys burning on end grain, like on this round live edge wood slice above, especially when the wood slice has the bark in tact. Rachel prefers face grain wood which has the grain running across the entire wood slice.

In general, birch trees aren't as big (or thick) as other hardwoods, so the slices you get from them usually aren't big either. Because of this, companies make birch wood plywood. As with ANY plywood, these planks use a lot of glues which can be dangerous to burn on. Always wear the safety gear, no matter what.

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Aspen

Aspen burns very similar to basswood in our experience, but isn’t just one solid color. It has lovely variations in color to it, which is my favourite part about this wood - it's easy to recognize and the colours on it can add to your design. If that doesn’t work for you or your design, try a face grain cut slice (the planks versus the rounds). Not sure what face grain is? Check out our Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist blog post to learn more.

Aspen is softer when burning making it feel buttery smooth and satisfying.

The grain is subtle and you can barely feel anything at all when burning, especially if sanded properly!

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Walnut

Walnut is such a juicy wood to burn on. It has a lovely medium/dark brownish color to it, and smells amazing when you burn it, however it is more on the expensive side.

It also contains a natural compound called juglone, which can cause respiratory irritation when burned in large amounts (if you burn hot) or over long periods of time. It’s essential to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and follow ALL safety precautions, as with any other woods you are working with.

This is one of those woods that soaks up finishes and darkens quite a bit when you put any finishes. This could make your lines and shading not as visible… Any light shading will disappear.

However, add a finish to this and just watch the natural grain pop and shine; So much dimension in this wood species!

The grains are visible but don’t interfere with burning. It is a dream is you burn deep like I do.

We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! They have buttery smooth Walnut - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

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Maple

Maple is one of Rachel’s personal favorites to burn on. She love the subtle grain in it (which does not get in the way of burning), and the color of the wood makes a great canvas.

It is harder than basswood, and is just lovely to burn on at a slightly higher heat. It is nice and lightly colored, lending itself well for pyrography. Finishes will darken the surface but not very much so you will not loose your work.

Maple is a bit more costly than basswood, but is worth it.

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Sourwood

Sourwood is one of Basia’s favourites due to the large and intricate live edge bark on it. The bark is so stunning, it creates it’s own frame of sorts!

The surface is lighter in color making a great canvas for burning and even though it is a hardwood, with some patience, higher heat and a slower pace, it is still a pleasure to burn on.

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Poplar

Poplar is another great choice for wood burning. It is another light colored option, although often it has a green tone to it which not everyone likes. There is a process you can take to get rid of this but it must be completed after you burn (because burning on the treatment is dangerous) and may require a bit of sanding so ensure your burn lines are fairly deep.

The grains can get in the way a bit, but otherwise it is a fairly smooth burn. It is quite similar to maple, but less expensive. A great choice for pyrography and very accessible and cheap.

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Cedar

Cedar has a beautiful rich red color in the center and a lighter color on its edges.

It burns really nicely and is lovely to work with because is a softer wood. It feels like butter. It’s easy to understand pyro tools and the variety of nibs and what they can do because you require less control when the wood is softer, can burn at a higher temperature, therefore allowing you to play around a little.

WARNING! Cedar is a very resinous wood. All kinds of cedar, but especially ones like Western Red Cedar, contain natural oils and resins, (creosote) which may release harmful fumes when burned (more fumes when heated very high). I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy this wood for a project, but I had a lot on hand after a building project. Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood.

Also, beware when staining, that red color deepens quite a bit, so always practice before adding a finish to a cedar wood burned piece.

A great place to learn more about your favorite wood types is at wood-database.com - here you will find all the specs you need!

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Runner-up Wood Surfaces to Burn On

1. Beech

2. Cork (Be careful with this one! Not all cork is made with glue, so make sure to use natural cork which is made directly from the bark of the cork oak tree).

3. Ash

4. Mahogany

5. Alder

6. Sycamore

7. Cypress

8. Willow

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Check out the DO NOT BURN ON list here.

Click Here for pyrography surfaces to burn on that are not wood!

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

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How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Mistakes. They happen. You can not easily “edit + undo” in pyrography but there are a couple tricks to making mistakes less visible.

This post includes affiliate links - we only recommend items that we have tried and love!

how to get rid of pyrography mistakes:

Razor - This technique is best for lighter burns. Use a razor as a little scraper to remove burn lines that are not too deep. For deeper burns you can still use this trick, however, you will have a dent/groove from the burn and scraping… It will take the contrast away and be less visible though!

Dremel Tool - Same idea as the razor except with a little more power. Depending on the shape of your Dremel bit, you can get into tight corners.

Sanding Stick - Same idea as the Dremel tool but with less power and more precision (depending on the Dremel bits you have. A sanding stick has a straight edge you can use for small fixes). For small areas, try a tiny sanding stick or wrap some sandpaper on a ruler or wood slice if in a pinch,

Sandpaper - If you want to fix a small mistake and don’t have a sanding stick, try folding up the sandpaper to create a sharp edge. Or wrap the paper around a block and use a corner to remove mistakes.

Tombow Eraser - A super handy eraser that is half eraser and half sandpaper. It has grit within it so it helps to take off any lines and overburn and the eraser in it does the rest. It works great on pencil but it won’t take off 100% of dark graphite (if you pressed really hard during your transfer). Use a tombow eraser first as it won’t scratch up your surface and then finish off with a super light sanding.

Keep Burning - Sometimes you just need to embrace the mistakes and work with them. Continue burning and adjust the original design to make your mistake disappear. Try to burn around the area instead of on top as burning the same spot will result in a deeper burn which may stand out and cannot be fixed.

How to get rid of transfer lines or pencil marks:

You’ve finished your wood slice art piece but can see remaining pencil lines from drawing your design, or even worse, transfer lines after using a no-heat transfer technique or the heat technique, you can see bits and pieces of your graphite lines.

There are a couple ways to get rid of these too!

1. Tombow sand eraser:

   Start here as the eraser gets the majority of the lines off or at least makes them much lighter and less visible.

2. Give it a VERY light sanding with sandpaper:

   Regular old sandpaper will work to get off graphite and pencil lines. Lightly sanding over your burn lines makes them sharper and cleaner, getting rid of overburn. This part sounds scary but it will really get everything off! Except what you’ve burned of course, UNLESS your lines and shading are not deep. If you have very light shading or lines, you may have to touch them up. I usually recommend getting the outline or majority of my design burned, take of the graphite lines with the Tombow eraser and a light sand, AND THEN fill in details and shading.

   After sanding, you may be getting dust in between your pyro lines that are tricky to get out. I use a sandpaper that has a sponge on the back and wipe it with that (dry of course). You can also use a toothbrush, air compressor (like the ones people use to clean their keyboards - they have motorized ones which are better for the environment and more portable than a construction one), or a microfibre cloth.

Some tips on avoiding the whole process of erasing leftover lines:

1. Firstly, use graphite paper or blue chaco paper. Carbon lines are much much harder to take off!

2. Use a light hand to transfer your design.

3. Transfer the minimal amount of lines (i.e. just the outline and the placement of a few details to get you going).

4. Draw your design directly on the wood, and lightly with a pencil or chalk (much easier to erase than any transfer paper).

5. Try burning free hand! I mark the general shape or outline with a couple dots or dashes using a pencil. That way there is much less to take off and I usually end up burning on top of those few lines. Tape also works well to make temporary borders.

5 Common Pyrography Myths

Megan of @happicamperkc is such a fabulous pyrographer and person. I had the good fortune to get to meet her in person, where we talked about pyrography and small business for hours!

Her pyrography is BOLD! Her color choices alone speak for themselves. She has learned a thing or two in her years as a wood burning artist, and she is sharing her knowledge with us.

Do yourself a huge favor and follow this wonderful human and artist. Let’s help support her so she can make her dream of becoming a full time artist a reality!

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Guest blog post by Megan of @happicamperkc

Find Megan on Facebook - Instagram - Etsy

SUPPORT HAPPI CAMPER ON PATREON “We do, and her posts are always filled with knowledge, love, happiness, and COLOR!”

5 Common Myths When it Comes To Wood Burning

The art of wood burning has changed a lot in the past few decades, and with this change, many misconceptions have come along. I want to help clear things up and tell you the most common myths about this hot-n-trendy medium:

MYTH #1 : All wood is equal in pyrography.

Nope. Like way nope. To me, the best wood types for burning are: Basswood, aspen, Baltic birch. I would 1000% avoid pine and plywood. Each kind burns differently. And it is a preference thing. It's just pine is really difficult with the soft/hardness and plywood straight up has dangerous fumes due to the glue they use when in manufacturing.

MYTH #2 : Watercolor will make your wood crack every time.

Nah, the trick is: Less water. More patience. Also the thinner your pieces, the more likely they are to crack. As long as you're using 1/2" or thicker you will be fine using watercolors on wood art.

MYTH #3 : I can make art like yours with my plug-n-play burner my grandma gave me.

I get this one a lot with peeps who see my art on social media, and then maybe come to my burning classes. Unfortunately, no this is NOT the case. I use a professional-grade burner that gets up to 1000 degrees hotter than your 1986 wood burner pen.

To get those hot, hot burn lines like I do I recommend getting a Razertip, Colwood or Optima burner tool.

That's not to say you can't do amazing art with a Walnut Hollow Creative burner. Just check out Hippie North.

MYTH #4 : Wood burning smoke is no more harmful than a campfire.

Listen. You only get 2 lungs. And you freakin' need them. When I started burning in 2012, I thought the smokiness was no worse than camping. But if you're like me and you wood burn WEEKLY, safety MUST come first.

Use a fan to pull smoke away. Wear a charcoal lined mask. Open windows. If you don't regret it now. You'll regret it later.

MYTH #5 : It's easy.

Ha! It's not. People go into wood burning thinking that it's like moving a brush across canvas or pen on paper. Pyrography is a whole 'nother beast and it will take time for you to get a feel for how you want to burn.

Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

Wood burning is a safe hobby when you follow the guidelines and safety precautions.

Too many times I see artists not using a mask and burning their art without any proper ventilation. Although you may not see any side effects from doing this right away, you should be warned that there may be long term effects that can be avoided!! (Among lung and breathing issues, I have heard of people loosing parts of their vision due to prolonged periods of smoke exposure without proper safety gear).

SMOKE IS SMOKE. PERIOD.

It is not good for you to be breathing the fumes in! Or allowing them to go into your eyes and the rest of the house where others are breathing it too.

Please, please, please keep yourself and those around you safe by following the safety precautions set by the wood burning tool manufacturer. Click here to see how you can protect yourself and grab your free safety guide to print and hang on your wall if this helps to remind you to wear a mask.

DID YOU KNOW…

There are many different surfaces, other than wood, that you can burn on. The most common surface for pyrography is wood. But did you know that the materials you are burning on emit different toxins depending on what they are made of. Some are more toxic than others. So for instance, burning on dry, unfinished wood can be safe (with the proper gear) but not all raw wood emits the same toxins. There are wood species that are very dangerous for your health, even if you use all the safety precautions.

RESEARCH YOUR MATERIALS TO UNDERSTAND WHAT TOXIC CHEMICALS MAY BE PRESENT AND WHETHER THOSE CHEMICALS ARE RELEASED WHEN HEAT IS APPLIED.

Common wood types you should never burn on:

• Driftwood: Burning salt-saturated driftwood is a bad idea as it can release toxic or harmful chemicals when burned, according to the EPA.

• Green wood: This type of wood isn’t a species, it is the state of the wood. meaning it’s not completely dry. Once a tree is cut down, it needs to be seasoned for 6 to 9 months to become completely dry. Burning on this will create a lot of smoke and will take much longer, the process will be even slower than regular pyrography.

• Wet, rotted, diseased, or moldy wood

• Pressure treated wood, plywood, particle board, chipboard, wood pallets or any wood with glue on or in it: Do not burn on anything man-made. This includes wood that has been stained, sealed or treated with any kind of glues or oils (even if they are natural oils). if you mix your media (like I do with water marbling, adding paint on top or gold foil etc) make sure to wood burn first and then add other mediums.

• Craft store wood: Many stores sell wood for crafting with but the majority of the time those wood slices are intended to be embellished with paint, chalk or other mediums and are not meant for pyrography!

• Wood with "poison" in the name: Burning poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, or pretty much anything else with the word "poison" in it’s name releases the irritant oil urushiol into the smoke. Breathing it in can cause lung irritation and severe allergic respiratory problems, according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention.

• Exotic woods: Rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo. are exotic woods and many of them contain natural oils or toxins that can be hazardous when burned. They may cause allergic reactions or respiratory issues due to the chemicals naturally present in the wood.

• Manchineel Tree: Found in tropical regions, it produces sap that contains highly toxic compounds, such as phorbol esters. Even standing near the smoke from burning manchineel wood can cause severe reactions, including blistering skin, respiratory distress, and potential blindness.

• Oleander shrubs: These thrive in frost-free climates and every part of it is toxic. Definitely don’t burn it in any way - don’t even use a branch to toast your marshmallow on.

• The yew tree (Taxus baccata) and a related species common to gardeners, Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is known to be one of the most poisonous woody plants in the world, with all components of the tree, excepting the fleshy red part of the berry containing lethal amounts of taxine, a toxic alkaloid found in the yew.

• Mexican pepper: Also known as Brazilian pepper wood, it is similar to poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, the leaves and bark contain urushiol, a toxic oil that causes serious rashes and allergic reactions.

If you feel any dizziness or headaches coming on while burning, stop and assess your situation. Do some research. I like to use the wood-database.com for a quick look up and do a little more research if I don’t get enough information from there. If you are unsure, reach out to us and just ask.

Know what you are burning on before you burn and stay safe!

Check out our safety guide for overall health and safety suggestions!

And Check out Top Woods To Burn on or join The Burn Club Community for more Pyro Fun!

sources:

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/a20705861/kinds-of-wood-not-to-burn/

https://wooddad.com/what-wood-is-toxic-to-burn/

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/burning-oleander-produce-poisonous-smoke-75289.html

https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/best-wood-burning-practices

https://extension.psu.edu/toxicity-of-yew-wood-and-roots

https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2010-118/default.html

5 Easy DIY Wood Burned Project Ideas

Want to make your own personalized DIY gifts for a loved one?? Pyrography is such a versatile hobby, below are 5 very easy projects you can make yourself and personalize in any way!

New to wood burning?

Check out our blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Here you will learn all about the tools you need, wood you should be using, safety you should be following and tips and tricks to help you make your own DIY wood slice project ideas come to life!

1. Wood Burned Spoons

Practical, useful gifts are always a good choice! Choose wooden spoons, spatulas, or salad servers with a simple design, or customize it with their name or their favorite quote. You really can’t go wrong with this functional art piece. Remind your gift receiver to not wash wood in the dishwasher, or to leave it soaking in water. Oil it with a food-grade safe oil, and recommend that your recipient re-oil them as needed to keep them looking good! Check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

2. Fridge Magnets

These can make such a cute gift. Create a set to give, and customize them for each person. These are adorable, functional and pretty easy to execute!

Learn all the details on how to complete this project in this blog post: Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Give it a try!

3. Cutting Board

Another practical, useful and functional art gift! Wood burning is so versatile, and I love how everything can be customized. Turn a favorite photo of your loved one into functional art. Add their name to a cutting board, or their favorite food/plant/flower/animal/etc to a serving board. Make it special to them. Remind them to hand wash only and to use a food-grade safe cutting board oil and reapply as necessary (check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art).

I like to use Walnut Hollow as they have their boards sanded ultra smooth and offer a good variety in terms of wood tyoe, shape and size!

4. Name Sign or Welcome Sign

New house? New marriage? New Baby? Create a family name sign! These are always well received. I like to keep my design simple so it can fit with other people’s decor. You could also add color, their house, or a special date if you have that information. Customize it to them! Again, Walnut Hollow is a great choice for large wood rounds and planks with both live edge options for a rustic look and non live egde options for a more modern look!

5. Wood Burned Clock

This is such a gorgeous, unique and thoughtful gift. It adds a warmth to any space, and is not only beautiful, but quite helpful. To create this piece I used a drill, Clock Parts from Walnut Hollow and a slice of Basswood. I sized and printed the numbers in the font of my choosing to fit the canvas. I then transferred the design using graphite paper and an embossing tool, and then burned the numbers using a Versatool burner. Then I used the drill to poke a hole in the center and added the clock parts. I used a Basswood Country Round, but you could also use a Circular Wood Canvas. I did not put a finish my clock, because I want to be able to darken it over time, as need be.

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Click here to learn how to transfer your child’s artwork onto wood and wood burn it for a lasting and personalized gift!

For more gift ideas and things to make next with your wood burning tool, check out this blog post with over 150 ideas of what to burn next!

And if you are just getting started in your pyrography journey, head here.

You can also find more project ideas and a full how-to in The Wood Burn Book or get yourself one of the Wood Burn Community Book of Template books full of traceable templates you can practice pyrography with!

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Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

Sanding, like it or hate it, is a part of being a wood burning artist. Sanding your wood before and after you burn can make your entire piece and your burn lines crisper.

A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.

There are some things you can do to make the job a little easier on yourself. See the steps below to getting the perfect surface to burn on:

Prepare the workspace

Place the wood slice on a flat and stable surface that won't move during sanding. You may want to clamp it down to keep it steady.

SAFETY FIRST!

Make sure you are in a well ventilated space, have an air purifier if sharing the space and you are wearing proper safety equipment. Something to protect your eyes and your lungs. Do it every time. The last thing you want is for your art to cause you harm. Protect yourself!

My favourite mask to use for everything I do with pyrography is RZ Mask. The M2 model is my favourite because it fits with my top pun or pony tail but they have so many to choose from and in so many different colors... They all have activated carbon filters which are replaceable and the mesh mask shell and valves are washable and reusable. They are comfortable, breathable and are 99% efficient against particulates down to 0.1 microns in size.

Choose the right sandpaper

The type of sandpaper you use will depend on how rough the surface of the wood slice is. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and gradually move to a finer grit (120-150 grit) for a smoother finish.

I love THIS bundle from amazon. It comes with a variety if you want to try it out on the wood you have. Some woods need more TLC and others come already very smooth.

Understanding Grit:

In the US grit is determined based on a scale. When shopping for sandpaper, you’ll see numbers such as 80-grit, 100-grit, or 200-grit. Keep in mind:

• The higher the number, the smaller the grains and the finer the sandpaper grit.

• The lower numbers indicate larger grains and overall coarser sandpaper

Generally you want to start out with a lower grit (coarser sandpaper). This helps to get rid of any larger scuffs, scratch marks, bumps and/or irregularities. Then you will want to increase the grit and finish off with a finer, more gentle sandpaper to get that ultra smooth finish.

Always sand with the grain of the wood, not against

Sand your pieces before you do any wood burning to ensure clean and crisp lines. A smooth surface will be much easier to burn on, and will create a better result.

Begin sanding the wood slice using the coarse grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the grain and use a back-and-forth motion. Sand any rough spots until they are smooth.

Once you've sanded the rough spots with the coarse sandpaper, switch to a finer grit sandpaper. Continue sanding until the surface is smooth and free of any scratches.

Finish with the finest grit for the ultimate smoothness

For an extra-smooth finish, use the finest grit sandpaper (220 grit) to sand the surface once more at the end. This will remove any remaining scratches and leave the surface with a smooth texture.

Clean the surface

Wipe off any dust and debris from the wood slice with a clean microfiber cloth (an old dry toothbrush helps to get into the cracks if the cloth cannot). You can also use an air compressor to get rid of any dust. Be careful to not get too close to the bark on a live edge wood slice. The strong air may remove delicate bark pieces and can come off. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use a brush to sweep of the dust or, better yet, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to safely capture the dust.

Sanding Tools

Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!

In the video below, I used:

RZ Mask: RZ Mask rocks! My first mask was the M2 but i also like the M1 as it has the ear straps which fit nicely. They have loads of different styles and sizes to choose from!

Dewalt Oribit Sander

Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit and Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit (here is a good variety pack!)

Sanding after you wood burn a piece

Sanding a piece after you burn removes any tracing lines as well as “overburn.” (Overburn, as you can see here on the left) is when you have a browning coloration right next to your burn line on the surface). Sanding your piece after you burn it gives your piece crisper and finer lines.

Use a 200-grit or 220-grit sandpaper (the finer the better) and remember to be super gentle when sanding at this stage, especially if you don’t burn very deep.

If you have any shading or surface burn lines, they may come off, so really; go light and slow here.

Watch how I sand my wood slices before I burn on them!

more Fun tips and tricks

Sanding sponge versus sanding block:

Since sponges form to your hand, a block sand paper will allow you to put in less effort and ensures you are sanding flat and not creating any divots. Try wrapping a sandpaper sheet to a scrap wood if you don’t have a pre-made sanding block (use a tube or pvc pipe instead of a block for contoured wood pieces)

Sanding power tools:

These come in handy! Especially if you prefer to sand your pieces in “batch work” style, meaning you sand a whole bunch all at once. I recommend this, because it is a time saver. You only have to get dirty once, you only have to pull out the tools once, and clean up the mess once. Then you have a stack of ready to go canvases. It’s awesome.