Metallic Gold and Wood

I am obsessed with metallics—there’s something about the way they catch the light and shift with every angle that makes them feel almost alive. But what I love even more is pairing that shimmer with something completely opposite, like the raw, organic texture of wood. There’s a contrast between the two that makes the shine feel even more dramatic.

Here is how this started.

A single mushroom and a gold gel pen. The idea was simple—just a touch of shimmer to highlight the design. But as I slowly filled it in, I realized how long it was taking (I was using a gel pen), and my mind started wandering. Were there better ways to add metallics to wood? Could I get the same shine with less effort? Or MORE shine????? That curiosity sent me down a rabbit hole, testing as many metallic mediums as I could get my hands on. As you can see in this little mushroom, I ran out of room…

So, I grabbed a wood round and an end grain piece and tried out a variety of metallic mediums to see how they performed. The results? Not as much difference between the two wood surfaces as I expected, but definitely some interesting discoveries when it came to the materials themselves.

Oh, I also experimented with adding an underlayer (check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood) but I did not see a massive difference with or without it. I think the most important piece here is to have the wood sanded smoothly.

Here is what I tested

(from my most favourite to least) and the results I found:

• Gold foil

• Gold leaf

• Acrylic markers

• Watercolors

• Calligraphy ink

• Metallic gel pen

• Metallic pencil crayons

• Water-based paint markers

Gold foil

This is my dream medium! I only tried the Deco Foil brand in gold but it comes in SOOOO many different colours including the classic rainbow irridescent one. All of them are so solid and so juicy looking.

It’s fairly easy to apply: Put a liquid down solution down, it dries, then you apply the gold foil. The liquid part of gold foil (and gold leaf) application is typically called gilding adhesive or size. It does dry, but it stays tacky until the gold foil/leaf is applied. It seems straightforward but, as you can see in the video at the beginning, it does take a little bit of practice. Here are some tips I learned along the way:

1. You need patience: I tried to put the foil on too quickly and it was not fully dried so it didn’t stick.

2. Do not overapply: Its hard to get a smooth consistent thickness. If it’s too thick, it can stay gummy and not dry evenly.

3. Do not underapply: If it’s too thin, the wood can absorb it and so it dries without the tackiness. I think that is what happened on some of the edges of the mushrooms with both the gold leaf and foil. The leaf/foils just didnt adhere perfectly, especially in the tiny spaces.

4. Better on flat surfaces: The application process, as you can see in the picture, is the gold medium on a plastic film. Once you press the gold side to the gilding adhesive, the gold sticks and the plastic part is clear. Tis is not ideal for rounded, bumpy or imperfect surfaces (like if you want the bark gold).

For the perfect finish, next time I will ignore the burn lines and my details and just add the foil on top and then use an tiny knife or needle to gently dig them out if the burn lines if they do get stuck in there. It’s a delicate medium so its not difficult and I think it’s worth the work to have a perfect edge.

There were two different ways of applying the liquid. First was a pen/marker style and the other a paintbrush.

• Marker Style: I really disliked this. I found it took really long in large areas and was hard to get into super small areas because the tip was so thick. If I went over some spots to make it thicker, it would almost scratch the first layer off.

• Paintbrush: This applied like white glue. It just flows out of the bottle. It says not to leave strokes but that was really tricky, especially if the wood is not sanded perfectly. BUT I was able to use different sized brushes, getting into the nooks and crannies of my design. It was a much more pleasant experience than the marker, even being able to see some strokes. This liquid was actually meant for the gold leaf, but works with the deco foil too.

This is the pen/marker style applicator.

This one applies like a white glue (link is to the deco foil brand).

Gold leaf

Gold leaf is VERY comparable to the gold foil in the final look.

The application however... It is the same process as the foil; the gilding adhesive (liquid solution) is applied and the leaf sheets placed on top (once the adhesive dries and becomes tacky).

But the gold foil is very delicate. The sheets are super super thin and I felt some was wasted because they stuck to my fingers - you’re supposed to use tweezers but when I tried, it was too aggressive and ripped little pieces off… At one point I laughed too hard and pieces blew all over the place.

I just used the paintbrush application as I did not like the marker style one.

It’s a little more forgiving than gold foil when it comes to adhesion. I felt the foil was finicky and needed a perfect glue application but the leaf, because it’s so delicate, adhered to more.

Also, if you want to cover round areas, or bark that is jagged and imperfect - gold leaf would be ideal. It’s easy to get into any uneven space, not like the gold foil.

There are different colours now and even cool variegated patterns (having multiple colors or variations in color, often in a random or patterned way). These kinda look like weathered metal. I am yet to see the classic rainbow iridescent one (which I will be using in the gold foil for my next project so stay tuned)! I announce these fun things in The Burn Club, so if you aren’t signed up to this monthly(ish) newsletter and want to know what I am up to, sign up here.

Acrylic markers

I LOOOOOVE THESE oil-based paint pens! They have such good coverage, and they are supply easy to apply - just colour it in like a regular marker!

Artistro has a water-based version so make sure you get the acrylic one because there is a day and night difference!

These ones are no gold leaf or gold foil but still are shiny and metallic.

Use the coupon code WBC at checkout for an extra 10%off!

You need to shake these up to make sure the metallic-ness comes out. The tip comes unused so it needs a bit of pumping at the beginning, but it doesn’t take too long.

I was worried about them drying up, but I have let mine sit for a few months and it still flows nicely!
I used them in my sketchbook (on paper) and they are just as beautiful!

Watercolours

Soft, shimmery and controllable shine! So close to the acrylic markers, but because you need water and a brush for these, I chose them to be in 4th place.

The shine is stunning though!

These are from Zahra Ammar and she handmakes them! Check her shop out here. She sells other things, so you can peruse through her stunning artwork, or scroll to the bottom to see what she has available.

I will probably dive into watercolours themselves and experiment with a few brands because they are fun and versatile - you can add a thin layer of gold so you can see your beautiful wood grain AND have a shimmer or you can lay it on thick so there is no transparency. The acrylic markers can’t do this…

In the meantime, if your interested and have some watercolors already, check out: Adding Watercolor to Wood

Calligraphy ink

This ink medium really surprised me. I love the tone of gold compared to the others. It is more yellow than green (but that is something you can usually choose). It also came out more metallic than I expected.

The application was interesting. Normally, it is meant for a pen like tool, like this one I am holding. Using this tool, you can get a very consistent gold line - great for outlines and details.

I, however, wanted to fill in the whole mushroom cap, so I dropped it on the wood with the dropper and then used a paintbrush to spread it. It spread nicely but the liquid was a little finicky. You need to let the bubbles settle after shaking it up, otherwise it comes out a little curdly. Or I didn’t shake it enough… You need to shake this up a lot!

Metallic gel pen

These gel pens are really good (the silver and white are equally awesome). The application was smooth and from all the brands I’ve tried so far, I like this one the best (but it was also brand new, so maybe that has something to do with it…). I guess more experimentation is needed.

The shine is present, but still not super metallic.

I love this though because it’s easy to control - like a normal pen, and you can get super super small details!

Going over one spot creates a little bit of scratch lines which I really don’t like, so I think i will stick to using this for details instead of larger areas (which is fine because it takes a while to fill in a large area with such a small tip).

Water-based paint markers

Same as the acrylic version of these, the application is amazing - just colour in like a regular marker. The coverage is good, but the shine is nothing compared to the acrylic ones. I feel like you need to mix/shake them very very very well - more than the acrylic… These are the ones I used.

Use the coupon code WBC at checkout for an extra 10%off!

What I did like about them was that they are still “metalic” looking, AND they are easy to wash away, because they are water-based. This means I can let my daughter use them freely.

Metallic pencil crayons

More texture, less shimmer. I like my colours rich and heavy, and these fell a little flat, especially compared to all the other options.

Pressing hard while using them felt like I was denting the wood a tiny bit making it look a little scratched… SO I had to do layer by layer.

I also don’t love that its not solid metallic, its more sparkly. It’s like a goldish tone/colour but has tiny little silver sparkles in it. Not super metallic….

Have you tried metallics on wood before? What’s your favorite medium?

Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When adding a new medium, besides pyrography, to your wood slice, do you find your colours or paints sinking into the wood and loosing their richness?

Here is a little hack for you!

Adding a layer of isolation coat or primer can help prepare the surface so that your mediums do not get lost. It can also act as a barrier to your wood when applying finishes that tend discolour your wood slice, like resin or varnish. Read on to learn more.

What is primer?

A primer is a preparatory coating applied to a surface before painting. Its primary purpose is to create a suitable surface for paint to adhere to, ensuring better durability and finish of the final artwork or project. Primers can be used on various surfaces like wood, canvas, metal, or walls, depending on the type of painting or medium. Gesso is a common primer used for canvas and other surfaces. I have found a primer, the Folkart primer, which works the same way as isolation coat and is less expensive.

Another alternative is to use a wood sealer designed for wood specifically. However, wood sealers are usually intended for large areas (like a deck or furniture) so you need to buy a large amount at one time. The products I show here are more specialized for artist so they are available in smaller quantities at a smaller price.

What is isolation coat?

An isolation coat is a transparent layer applied to a painting (after painting), typically in acrylics, before the final varnish. It serves as a protective barrier between the painting surface and the varnish. This isolation coat prevents the varnish from sticking directly to the paint, allowing for easier removal of the varnish if necessary (e.g., for cleaning or conservation), without damaging the artwork underneath.

Golden's isolation coat product is specifically designed for use with acrylic paintings. It is a ready-to-use fluid medium that can be applied directly to a fully cured acrylic painting to protect the paint layers before varnishing. It makes the varnish layer easy to remove which means you can take off and reapply the varnish without messing up the paint underneath. Artists love this stuff because it helps their acrylic pieces last longer and stay looking great.

Aly of @alyooposartistry, introduced us to this magical liquid at The Burn Club Retreat back in 2018. She uses it as a layer on top of her finished wood burned piece that she finishes with resin, before the resin is applied. Resin, as with majority of finishes, darkens woods (generally, all woods change color and/or darken when a finish is applied).

before resin

after resin

This mushroom above was burned and watercolored on cherry wood. The resin made the grains pop and the redness super rich. ***There was no isolation coat or primer added here.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

Isolation coat doesn’t darken the wood as much, but you can see a slight difference.

Here you can see a triangular cherry wood slice. The primer darkens the surface slightly, but looking at the bottom, you can see that without any primer or isolation coat, the wood got considerably darker!

Applying isolation coat or primer before adding resin or Varnish is helpful to maintain the colour to what you see when it is unfinished

The darkening of wood can be great, but it can also make burn marks much less visible, especially if you are not going very deep, like with shading.

Some woods do not darken as much as others, so if you are unsure, do a little test on the back! Usually, darker woods get much darker then their original color and lighter woods do not darken as much.

How Else can isolation coat or primer be used in the world of wood?

Often, these products can be used to prepare the surface for another medium. I use them to create a barrier on the wood so that the medium I am using does not sink into the wood and get lost. The best example would be watercolour, which requires, well, water. The water often gets absorbed into the wood and the colours can loose their richness.

To learn about how and why different mediums get lost in wood, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist where I explain how the grain of wood and the way its cut can have an affect on mediums applied and pyrography itself!

Other mediums you can use on top of isolation coat are gold foil (which require a liquid glue for the gold to adhere, or paints that are more liquid/watery.

For wood-based art, a base coat serves crucial functions before painting:

• It improves adhesion, ensuring paint doesn't peel or flake

• It seals wood pores for uniform paint application, saving paint and reducing coats

• It enhances colour vibrancy by blocking the wood's natural hue from altering paint appearance

• It smooths out wood imperfections, providing a better surface for detailed work

• It blocks natural wood resins that can cause discoloration.

• The type of primer can even affect the final sheen of the paint, enhancing glossiness or creating a matte finish.

However, keep in mind:

• It can also make watercolor (or any liquid mediums) to behave more like acrylics, sitting on top of the surface rather than absorbing into it… Primer is more “clingy” than isolation coat (isolation coat is a bit more slippery) and this can cause watercolours to not bleed or blend as they would on paper or raw wood. It will still work, just the outcome will be slightly different.

How do they effect the wood?

In this example below, you can see that both isolation coat (on the left) and primer (on the right) darken the wood slightly. I tried both isolation coat and primer on an end grain (rounded slice) and face grain (rectangle slice) as the grain direction makes a difference! To learn more about the differences, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist.

The end grain (round) slice is maple and the face grain (rectangular) slice is basswood.

The instructions on either medium says “add multiple layers as needed”.

One layer gives a slight sheen, but the more coats added, it seem that the more shinier the surface gets (on both end and face grain).

The end grain (round) slices definitely require a couple coats as either product soaks in.

Woods that are lighter like this (basswood, pine etc…) are generally less effected by finishes. This slice below, is cherry wood and it is easily darkened by any finish.

So Should I use isolation coat or primer?

After some testing and experimenting, the verdict is so close that the two are essentially the same. My thoughts are, if you plan on sealing before adding colour AND after, then use isolation coat. Isolation coat is meant for going on top so therefore, instead of buying primer and isolation coat, you can just use isolation coat first, add your paint, and then add an isolation coat after.

If you want a durable finish, I still recommend finishing off your piece with a varnish in order to fully seal or protect your artwork after the medium (such as watercolor or acrylic) has been applied.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

A sealer or varnish are designed specifically to:

1. Protect: They create a protective layer over your artwork, safeguarding it from dust, moisture, and UV light.

2. Enhance Appearance: Varnishes can provide different finishes, such as matte, satin, or gloss, depending on the look you want.

3. Preserve: Sealers and varnishes help prevent fading, cracking, or other damage over time.

Thank you for reading!

We hope this information is useful and helps you in your journey discovering the world of pyrography.

Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide

Pyrography, or wood burning, is a beautiful and rewarding art form, but like any craft, it comes with its challenges. Whether you're a seasoned artist or just starting, it's common to run into problems that affect the quality of your burns.

In this guide, we’ve made it super easy to find solutions to common pyrography problems. Just scroll down and click on the issue you're dealing with to get quick tips and fixes. Whether it’s adjusting your heat settings, picking the right wood, or fine-tuning your technique, we’ve got you covered.

Find your issue below and get back to burning with confidence!

Burn Quality Issues

• Uneven Burn Marks

  Cause: Varying pressure or inconsistent heat distribution.
  

  Solution:

  • Ensure the tip is fully heated before burning. Allow the tool to reach its working temperature for consistent burns. Some tools heat up super quick, others take longer.

  • Practice even hand pressure. Try a few test strokes on scrap wood before working on your project.

  • Use a smoother wood surface to avoid uneven grain affecting the burn quality. Check out: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

• Splotchy or Patchy Burns

  Cause: Dirty tip, uneven wood grain, or resin in the wood.
  

  Solution:

  • Regularly clean the tool tip with a fine wire brush or cloth to remove buildup. Check out Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool to learn more about cleaning and caring for your tools.

  • Choose fine-grained, smooth wood types like basswood or birch for more uniform burns. To see a list of woods we like to use, go to: Best Wood for Pyrography

  • Avoid resin-heavy woods like pine, or sand and seal the wood before burning. Check out this blog post to learn more: Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

• Burn Marks Are Too Light

  Cause: Low heat setting or quick hand movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Increase the heat setting gradually, especially for harder woods.

  • Slow down your hand movements to give the tool enough time to burn the wood. Patience (and consistency) is the key with pyrography.

  • Clean the tip if it's dirty or has residue build-up. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Burn Marks Are Too Dark or Deep

  Cause: Excessive heat or too much pressure.

  
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting or use a lighter touch with the tool. You should never be pressing too hard onto the wood anyways! But if you like to burn hot, then reducing the pressure and moving faster will help.

  • Not always the best solution, but you can try to use fine-grit sandpaper to reduce overly dark areas. This will most likely not take away the burn marks, but can lighten them a little. This is not the best solution though as sanding can damage the surrounding design and create a different look to your burn marks compared to what you do not sand...

• Lines Are Too Thick

  Cause: Wrong tip choice or excessive pressure.
  

  Solution:

  • Use finer tips for detailed work and intricate lines.

  • Reduce pressure when burning, as pressing too hard widens the burn line.

  • Consider using adjustable heat settings to create finer burns with lower heat. Lower and slower is the motto for thin and crisp lines.

Line Control and Precision

• Burn Lines Are Shaky

  Cause: Lack of hand control or movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • Practice straight lines and curves on scrap wood to improve steadiness.

    • Usually pushing the nib away from you is easier, but try pulling it towards you as well.

    • Rotate the wood to find the most comfortable and best angle.

    • Try different angles of the pen too. Experiment which one feels most comfortable.

    • You can try using different nibs. Ones with a sharp edge can often be easier to make lines with. A curved sharp edge is also very different than a straight sharp edge...

  • Consider using a stencil or guide to help keep lines smooth and consistent. A metal ruler for example could work great to keep a long straight line looking straight.

• Unwanted "Glow" Around Burn Lines

  Cause: Excessive heat or movement that is too slow
  

  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce the amount of heat radiating from the tip.

  • Use a faster, controlled hand movement to limit the time heat is concentrated in one area.

  • Sand the wood after burning to remove the glow. To learn more about that, visit: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

  • Choose a wood that is less prone to scorching, like basswood or maple, which tend to produce less "glow" than softer woods like pine.

• Wrist pain or discomfort

  Cause: Unstable positioning and/or awkward wood size.

  Solution: Try one of the following but also make sure to take a lot of movement breaks (I like to set a timer for that).

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

  • For large pieces of wood, try a turntable, an art easel, or propping against a wall.

Wood Surface and Tool Interaction

• Nib Sticking to Wood

  Cause: High heat or resinous wood.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to prevent sticking and charring.

  • Keep the tip moving steadily to avoid lingering in one spot.

  • Clean the tip regularly to remove sticky residue. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Smoke During Burning

  Cause: High heat or burning on resin-heavy woods.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce excessive smoke.

  • Work in a well-ventilated area or use a small fan to disperse smoke.

  • Avoid working on damp woods or highly resinous woods such as pine or cedar.

• Wood slice is tiny

  For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

• Wood slice is very big

  When the wood slice is too big, it can be hard to get a good angle and be comfortable with the process. Two options here can include using a turntable or an art easel.

  If you still find the piece is too large for either option, try proping it on the wall and burning.

  Remember to take a lot of breaks to avoid any pains.

Tool and Equipment Troubles

• Tip Not Heating Properly

  Cause: Faulty tool, loose connection, or dirt build-up.
  

  Solution:

  • Check the power cord and make sure all connections are secure.

  • Clean the tip. Visit the following post for different ways on how to do that: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

  • If you are using an interchangeable nib, ensure that it is properly installed. To learn more on which nib you have, check out: Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

  • If the tool continues to malfunction, consider replacing the tip.

  • If you still don't have any luck contact the manufacturer for further information.

• Tool Tip Overheating

  Cause: Using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Use multiple tools or tips to switch out and give each time to cool.

• Entire Pen Overheating

  Cause: Low quality tool or using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Get a better tool. Check out out favourite tools here: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

  • Wear finger protection, a half glove, or whole hand protection

Design and Transferring Issues

• I don't know what/how to draw

  You don’t need to know how to draw if you want to try out pyrography. Below are some options for you to get started:

  • Grab some free templates here.

  • Join Burn Club for FREE to get even more free monthly goodies.

  • Visit The Templates Store for even more designs including royalty free ones!

  • Check out our Community Books full of templates!

• How do I get the designs onto wood?

  There are two main ways to get designs onto wood:

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Heat

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Using Heat

• My transfer lines are not coming off the wood

  If you are left with lines from transferring your design, check out this blog post for ways to help you remove them: How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Troubleshooting in pyrography is all part of the creative process. Don’t let a little smoke or uneven lines get in the way of your masterpiece! With the tips and fixes from this guide, you’re now equipped to tackle those pesky issues and get back to making beautiful, detailed woodburned art. Remember, every artist faces challenges—it's how you handle them that helps you grow.

If you come across any issues we didn’t address, feel free to drop a comment in the section below, and we’ll do our best to help out.

Keep practicing, stay patient, and most importantly, have fun with your craft.

Happy burning!

Branding Irons: Traditional vs. Electric

Branding irons are a tool used to burn designs into wood or other materials. When it comes to branding irons, there are two main types: traditional branding irons and electric branding irons.

A traditional branding iron is typically heated with fire (i.e. on a stove top) or with a torch.

Anf an electrical branding iron which uses electricity to heat the iron to a consistent temperature.

Each type has its own set of pros and cons though, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences. I own an electric branding iron and have used it time and time again to both add the Wood Burn Corner logo to art pieces, and to brand other products.

Traditional Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Cost-effective - Traditional branding irons are often less expensive than their electric counterparts.

2. Customizable - You can easily create custom branding irons with unique designs, initials, or logos to add a personal touch to your work.

3. Portable - They are usually small and easy to transport, making them ideal for artists and craftspeople who work in different locations.

4. No power required - They don't require electricity, making them ideal for use in remote locations or areas with limited power access. You just need a heat source. Many people heat them with a blow torch or their stove top.

Cons:

1. Limited precision - Traditional branding irons require more skill and practice to achieve precise, detailed designs. The temperature may not be the same consistently for every burn.

2. Time-consuming - They require heating over an open flame, which can be time-consuming and inconvenient.

3. Risk of burns - Traditional branding irons can be dangerous, as they require heating over an open flame and can cause burns if not handled properly.

Electric Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Precise designs - They allow for precise and detailed designs, making them ideal for professionals who need high-quality results.

2. Consistent heat - They heat up quickly and maintain a consistent temperature. This makes it much faster and easier when needing to brand multiple products.

3. Time-saving - Electric branding irons require some heating time, but tend to be so quicker because they don’t require heating between each burn.

4. Safer - They don't require an open flame to heat up.

Cons:

1. Expensive - Electric branding irons are generally more expensive than traditional branding irons.

2. Limited customization - They may not allow for as much customization as traditional branding irons, as they often come with fixed designs or logos or sizes.

3. Power required - They require electricity to function, which can be limiting in remote locations or areas with limited power access.

4. Less portable - Electric branding irons are often larger and less portable than traditional branding irons.

In conclusion, both traditional and electric branding irons have their own set of pros and cons, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences.

Consider the level of precision you need, the amount of time you have, your budget, and your power access when making your choice between traditional and electric branding irons.

I have loved my electrical one, but can also see why having one I can heat up on my stovetop would be useful. Either way, it is certainly faster for branding branding than traditional pyrography. (See what I did there?)

How to Manifest Your Business Goals

Manifesting business goals involves applying the principles of the law of attraction to draw in the success, opportunities, and resources needed to achieve them. While some may dismiss it as fluff, it can genuinely lead to life-changing results. Even if you're skeptical about the 'magic' of manifesting, consider the logical aspect: regularly reminding yourself of your goals and maintaining a positive, motivated mindset helps keep you on track and fuels your drive to succeed.

Here are some steps you can take to manifest your business goals. They are not set in stone. Make them work for you. This is what has worked for us!

Set clear and specific goals

Define your business goals clearly and specifically, and write them down. Be specific about what you want to achieve, and by when. Check out our blog post on how to clarify your goals: Focus Five - The 5 Things That Describe Your Business

Visualize your success

Use visualization techniques to see yourself achieving your business goals. Imagine yourself already in possession of the resources, opportunities, and success that you desire. Basia loves creating Pinterest mood/vision boards to encapsulate her goals, and Rachel loves visualizing through a hand written goal list. Do what works for you!

Remind yourself daily what your goals are

• A fun idea is to create a vision board. Place the board somewhere you see every day, like your office or bedroom.

• Or, make a digital one! Leave it to the Pinterest Queen, Basia, to use Pinterest as her digital vision board to collect images that inspire and motivate her, and words that speak to her. She created her own affirmations, like this one here, (click here to see them), which then are easily enabled onto a phone, as a widget via Pinterest (they can even can rotate hourly on a daily basis) so every time you see your phone, you are reminded about what you want!

• Make a digital collage and use it as as a screen saver.

• Write them out and repeat them each morning to help reinforce them in your mind.

• Write your goals on small index cards or sticky notes and carry them with you or place them around your workspace for constant reminders.

• Journal daily

• Use a habit tracker or planner to note down daily actions that align with your goals. Checking off progress will keep your goals top of mind.

• Spend a few minutes each day visualizing yourself achieving your goals. Set an alarm if you are busy or forgetful, like me.

• Share your goals with a friend, partner, or mentor who can help remind you and keep you accountable.

Practice gratitude

Be grateful for what you already have, and focus on the positive aspects of your business. This will help you maintain a positive and optimistic mindset, which is essential for manifesting success. Not only is it essential for manifesting success, but it also points out your current successes, which is so important. Rachel calls these her “Ta-Da List.”

Take action

While manifestation involves visualization and positive thinking, it's also important to take action towards your goals. Be proactive in seeking out opportunities and taking steps towards achieving your goals. Even taking the smallest steps towards reaching your goals is better than taking none. Rachel says “if it seems too big, then make the next step smaller, and do that.” Just keep going.

Surround yourself with positivity

Surround yourself with people and things that inspire and motivate you. This can include reading books or listening to podcasts that focus on success, networking with other business owners who share your goals, and creating a positive work environment. Basia and Rachel have weekly chats, where this happens, and it makes all the difference. Choose people who are turly in your corner! There are plenty in this community who would love to be a positive accountability partner to you. Just ask.

Let go of limiting beliefs

Let go of any limiting beliefs that may be holding you back. This can include negative self-talk, fear of failure, or a belief that success is not possible. This can be hard (like really hard), but whenever it pops up, remember that, it is the audacity to try that is what makes most successful people stand out from the rest, not necessarily talent. Don’t let yourself stop you.

Remember that manifesting success takes time and effort, but by staying focused on your goals, maintaining a positive attitude, and taking action towards your goals, you can manifest the success you desire in your business.

Digitizing Your Wood Slice for Extra Revenue

In today’s digital age, pyrography artists have more opportunities than ever to expand their reach and monetize their art beyond traditional sales. By digitizing your wood art, you can transform physical creations into digital assets, opening the door to a variety of new revenue streams. Instead of just selling a design once, you now have to options to sell it numerous times in numerous ways.

Whether you're creating high-resolution scans or professional photographs of your work, digitization allows you to share, sell, and promote your art on a global scale.

So, how do you decide if you want to take photos or scan your art?

When deciding between scanning and photographing a woodburned wood slice, there are several factors to consider, as both methods offer distinct advantages and disadvantages:

1. Quality of Detail:

• Scanning: Scanners capture very high-resolution images with consistent lighting, making them ideal for showcasing intricate details like fine lines or subtle shading in pyrography.

• Photography: A high-quality camera with proper lighting can capture detailed textures, giving a more three-dimensional look to the woodburned surface. The texture of the wood, shadows, and natural imperfections will be more visible, which can enhance the piece's appearance but might require careful lighting to avoid glare or overexposure.

2. Colour Accuracy:

• Scanning: Scanners generally provide more accurate colour reproduction, especially with flat artwork. However, woodburned slices can be uneven, and the light from the scanner might not capture the natural wood grain or the depth of the burn as authentically as a camera could.

• Photography: Depending on your camera and lighting setup, you might have to tweak settings or adjust in post-production to achieve colour accuracy, especially if natural lighting changes or creates warm or cool tones. Personally, this one was my toughest issue. After experimenting with what I thought was consistent lighting, the photos were not all exactly the same and this drove me crazy! I set up a light in my living room and blacked out the sun, but it was such a hassle and took over my entire living space…

3. Lighting:

• Scanning: The lighting is always even and consistent, which is excellent for avoiding shadows and glare but can flatten the appearance of the wood's texture.

• Photography: Photography gives you full control over lighting, allowing you to experiment with different angles and intensities. This can highlight the texture of the woodburning but requires careful setup to avoid shadows or highlights from uneven lighting. Same with the colour accuracy though… If you're not sure what you’re doing, this is a hard one to get consistent.

4. Ease of Use:

• Scanning: A scanner is easy to use for smaller pieces. You simply place the wood slice on the bed, scan it, and get a high-resolution image. For larger pieces, this can be limiting as the wood slice might not fit properly. However, there are companies that offer large-format scanning services, which are ideal for digitizing oversized or three-dimensional pieces.

• Photography: Photography gives you more flexibility for larger or irregularly shaped pieces like wood slices. You can photograph the piece in natural light or a controlled studio environment. However, it takes more time and effort to set up the shot, manage lighting, and ensure focus. Also, consistency is key and this may be difficult if you do not have a studio set up…

5. File Size and Versatility:

• Scanning: Scanners can create very large, high-resolution files, which is useful if you want to print the image at a larger scale. However, the files might be unnecessarily large for online sharing.

• Photography: A photograph can be just as high-resolution, depending on your camera, but it allows for more flexibility in post-editing for various uses like social media or print.

6. Textural Appearance:

• Scanning: Scanning tends to flatten the texture of the wood, making it appear more like a 2D image. This is great for many uses such as stickers, prints etc…

• Photography: Photography, especially with angled lighting, can better capture the 3D texture of the woodburning and the natural grain of the wood slice. Depending on the look you are going for, this can be a hit or a miss!

Generally, if you're aiming for a flat, highly detailed reproduction (for example, to use in print), scanning might be the better option. However, for a more dynamic and natural feel that captures the texture and shape of the wood slice, a high-quality photograph would likely be more effective.

My art is digitized. Now what?

1. Prints: Digitize the wood burned design and create high-quality prints to sell as posters, art prints, or greeting cards.

2. Stickers: Turn the design into stickers, which can be sold individually, in sets, or as part of themed collections. Here is a great example that Chelsea Glade of @oopschelseaarted (formerly pickleshopcuriosity) made.

3. Digital Downloads: Offer a digital download that customers can purchase and print at home.

4. Merchandise: Create merchandise such as T-shirts, mugs, phone cases, and tote bags through print-on-demand (POD) services. There are tons of options available, always get a sample before selling to ensure great quality.

5. Calendars: Incorporate the design(s) into a calendar, either as part of a collection of wood burned art or as a unique feature for a particular month.

6. Gift Wrap and Tags: Create gift wrap paper and gift tags featuring the wood burned design.

7. Journals and Notebooks: Print the design on the covers of journals, notebooks, and planners.

8. Home Decor: Produce items like cushions, blankets, or tapestries with the wood burned design printed on them. There are may POD services that can do this!

9. Books and Bookmarks: Use the design for custom books, book covers, bookmarks and more, either for personal use or to sell to others. Heidi Clinite of @ember_maypop wrote a children’s book called Sassy Susie Sasquatch Sets Sail and used her wood burned art for the cover, as well as throughout the entire book!

10. Art Prints: Enhance the design with digital art techniques and offer as limited edition art prints.

11. Custom Stationery: Create stationery sets including letterheads, envelopes, and notepads with the design.

12. Wall Decals: Turn the design(s) into removable wall decals.

13. Puzzles: Create custom jigsaw puzzles featuring the wood burned design.

14. Fabric Patterns: Use the design to create fabric patterns, which can then be sold to crafters and designers.

15. Digital Wallpapers: Offer the design(s) as a digital wallpaper for computers and mobile devices.

With the growing technology, the options to make extra revenue with your art are continuously growing. By embracing digital tools, you can scale your creative business while staying true to the craftsmanship that makes wood art so unique.

Top 5 Wood Burning Books Ranked and Reviewed

Getting into pyrography can be a fun and rewarding experience, whether you're just starting out or looking to take your skills to the next level. There are some fantastic books out there that can help you along the way, offering tips, techniques, and plenty of project ideas.

In this review, we'll take a look at FIVE great reads that can guide you through your woodburning journey. From learning the basics to mastering realistic animal portraits, these books have got you covered.

Let's dive into what makes each of these resources invaluable for any pyrography enthusiast.

---

Creative Woodburning: Projects, Patterns and Instruction to Get Crafty with Pyrography

“Creative Woodburning" by Bee Locke is a comprehensive guide suitable for both beginners and experienced pyrography artists. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices. Locke delves into various techniques, from basic shading and texturing to more advanced methods like stippling and crosshatching. The book includes a wide range of projects, each with detailed step-by-step instructions and patterns, ensuring there's something for everyone. Additionally, the inclusion of original designs and motifs provides ample inspiration for readers to develop their unique style.

One of the book's strengths is its clear and detailed instructions, which make it accessible for beginners. The troubleshooting section is particularly helpful, offering solutions for common mistakes. However, the book may not offer new insights for highly advanced woodburners, and some projects might be too complex for absolute beginners without additional guidance. Overall, "Creative Woodburning" is a valuable resource for anyone interested in pyrography, providing a balanced mix of instruction, inspiration, and practical tips.

---

"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss

"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss is an excellent resource for both novice and experienced pyrography artists. The book opens with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, detailing essential tools, materials, and safety practices. Strauss covers a wide array of techniques, from simple line work and shading to intricate texturing and pattern creation. Each technique is explained with clear, step-by-step instructions and accompanied by high-quality photographs, making it easy for readers to understand and follow along.

What sets this book apart is the variety of projects it offers. Strauss includes a broad range of ideas, from decorative household items to personalized gifts, ensuring there's something for every skill level and interest. The book also features unique and original designs, providing plenty of inspiration for readers to develop their own creative projects. Additionally, Strauss's passion for pyrography shines through in her engaging writing style, making the book not only informative but also enjoyable to read.

While the book is comprehensive, highly experienced woodburners might only find a couple tidbits of new information. Overall, "The Wood Burn Book" is a valuable and inspiring guide that offers a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

---

"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson

"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is a specialized guide focused on creating lifelike animal portraits through the art of pyrography. This book is particularly valuable for artists who wish to enhance their skills in rendering detailed and realistic animal figures. Robinson begins with a thorough introduction to the basics of pyrography, including essential tools, materials, and safety tips, which makes the book accessible to beginners.

The core of the book lies in its detailed tutorials for creating realistic animal portraits. Robinson provides step-by-step instructions, accompanied by high-quality photographs and detailed line drawings, to guide readers through each stage of the process. She covers various techniques such as shading, texturing fur, and capturing the intricate details of animal features, all aimed at bringing a lifelike quality to the woodburned artwork.

One of the book's strengths is its focus on realism. Robinson shares her expertise in capturing the essence and character of different animals, offering tips on how to achieve precise details and depth. This makes the book an excellent resource for artists looking to challenge themselves and elevate their pyrography skills.

The level of detail and complexity in the projects might be daunting for absolute beginners. Some prior experience with basic pyrography techniques would be beneficial before tackling the more advanced projects in this book. Additionally, while the book is highly specialized, those seeking a broader range of subjects or simpler projects might find it less versatile.

Overall, "Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is an exceptional guide for pyrography artists interested in creating lifelike animal portraits. Its detailed tutorials and expert tips make it a valuable resource for advancing one's skills in realistic woodburning.

---

"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish

"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish is an extensive and detailed guide for pyrography artists, whether they are beginners or more advanced practitioners. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of wood burning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices, which is particularly beneficial for those new to the craft.

One of the book's major strengths lies in its exploration of various techniques. Irish meticulously explains everything from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and layering methods. Each technique is presented with step-by-step instructions and detailed photographs, ensuring readers can easily follow along and practice effectively.

The book also stands out for its wide range of projects. It includes designs suitable for different skill levels, from simple patterns to more intricate artworks. Each project comes with clear instructions, patterns, and helpful tips, making it easy for readers to recreate the designs or use them as inspiration for their own creations.

Another highlight is the extensive collection of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature-inspired scenes to abstract patterns. This wealth of design options is excellent for sparking creativity and helping artists develop their own unique styles. The link is to an extended version which has even more designs, techniques and projects!

Beginners might find some of the advanced projects challenging without prior experience, and highly experienced woodburners might not find new techniques. Overall, "The Great Book of Wood Burning" is a valuable and inspiring resource, offering a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration for anyone interested in pyrography.

---

"WoodBurning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly

"Woodburning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly is a practical and comprehensive guide designed for pyrography enthusiasts of all skill levels. The book begins with an in-depth introduction to the basics of pyrography, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices. This foundational knowledge is particularly beneficial for beginners, ensuring they have a solid understanding before progressing to more complex techniques.

O’Reilly excels in providing detailed, step-by-step instructions for a wide range of wood burning techniques, from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and detailing methods. The book includes a variety of projects tailored to different skill levels, each accompanied by high-quality photographs and clear instructions.

Additionally, the wealth of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature scenes to abstract patterns, serves as a rich source of inspiration for artists looking to develop their unique styles. Overall, "Wood Burning Workshop" is a valuable resource that balances practical instruction with creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

Leveraging Technology in Your Pyrography Business: Canva

In the digital age, leveraging technology can significantly enhance your business, and specifically your pyrography business. Canva, an online design tool, offers a wide range of features that can help you create stunning designs, marketing materials, and more. This guide will explore how you can use Canva to boost your pyrography business.

Why I Love Using Canva

1. User-Friendly Interface

Canva’s intuitive interface makes it easy for anyone, regardless of design experience, to create professional-looking designs. There are many good online tutorials too, if you get stuck.

2. Versatile Design Tools

With a vast library of templates, fonts, images, and graphics, Canva provides all the tools you need to create a variety of designs, from logos to social media posts. The paid version has more stock images and features available, but the free version still lets you complete tasks and create beautiful content.

3. Accessibility

Canva is a web-based platform accessible from any device with an internet connection, allowing you to work on your designs anytime, anywhere. I have tried to use my phone AND my iPad to create on the go, however, it was not as easy to use as on a computer or laptop. In a pinch I was still able to get done what I needed, but I prefer using the computer.

4. Collaboration Features

Canva enables real-time collaboration, making it easier to work with team members or clients on design projects. This was a game changer for me!! Instead of downloading your design from the program, uploading to email or a folder in google drive, then emailing it to whomever I wanted to share it with, just to have them download it, all I do is share a link directly to the source. I can make the design editable too so if I am working on a design with someone, we can both change it together in real time. We can leave comments or each other too! This is one of my favorite features.

Getting Started with Canva

Create an account HERE and choose your level. As mentioned before, the free version really does everything you need it to do. It is a great way to get started with the program without paying while you are learning and exploring.

Designing for Pyrography

1. Creating Patterns and Templates

• Custom Dimensions: Start a new design with custom dimensions that match the size of your wood pieces!

• Templates: Use Canva’s pre-made templates as a starting point and customize them to suit your needs.

• Shapes and Lines: Utilize shapes and lines to create intricate patterns and designs.

• Import your own designs and photos: Easily add layers to your own content to create new and unique content.

2. Experimenting with Fonts and Text

• Canva offers a wide range of fonts. Experiment with different styles to find the perfect one for your designs.

• Use text effects like shadows and outlines to add depth to your designs.

3. Adding Visual Elements

• Graphics and Illustrations: Access Canva’s extensive library of graphics and illustrations to enhance your designs.

• Photos: Upload your own photos or choose from Canva’s stock images to incorporate into your designs.

Marketing Your Pyrography Business

1. Social Media Content

• Templates: Use Canva’s social media templates to create eye-catching posts for platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

• Consistency: Maintain a consistent brand aesthetic across all your social media channels using Canva’s brand kit feature (available with Canva Pro). This is really cool because once you save your brand kit, it is easy to create content that is on brand with just one click!

2. Promotional Materials

This is what we use Canva for the most and is probably the most common use.

The image here of the book is not a real book on wood. It is a digital image, shadow added and put on a background of wood making the vibe completely different than a standalone book…

The bonus is that you can create content to be printable and digital! Below are a just a few ideas, but the world is really your oyster here. You can do so much more. We’ve even created published books using Canva!

• Flyers and Brochures: Design professional flyers and brochures to promote your pyrography workshops and products.

• Business Cards: Create customized business cards to hand out at events and craft fairs.

• Thank you cards: create content that is personalized for your clients!

3. Online Presence

• Website Graphics: Design banners, buttons, and other graphics for your website.

• Email Marketing: Create visually appealing email newsletters to keep your customers informed about new products and promotions.

Enhancing Your Customer Experience

1. Custom Orders

• Mockups: Use Canva to create digital mockups of custom orders for clients. This helps them visualize the final product. I like to insert the image onto the actual wood slice I will be burning on so they can almost see the finished product before I burn it.

• Approval Process: Share the mockups and designs with clients for approval before starting the actual burning process. This step really eliminates any miscommunication or mistakes.

2. Instructional Guides

• Create step-by-step guides and tutorials for your clients, helping them learn how to care for their wooden items in a neat and on brand way. Remember, these can be printed or sent via a digital document!

Canva is a powerful tool that can greatly enhance your pyrography business. Whether you’re designing patterns, marketing materials, or customer guides, Canva’s versatile features and user-friendly interface make it easy to create professional-quality designs.

Handling Burnout and Staying Motivated as an Artist

Burnout is a common issue for many creative professionals, including pyrographers. I know because I’ve been there… It can stem from the pressures of constant creation (especially when you’re trying to keep up with social media algorithms), running a business, or balancing multiple responsibilities. However, with the right strategies, you can manage burnout and reignite your passion for your art, finish those wood slice projects and create art that is true to you.

Understanding Burnout

Burnout is a state of physical, emotional, and mental exhaustion caused by prolonged stress. In artists, it can manifest as a loss of creativity, lack of motivation, and even physical fatigue (among many other symptoms).

Recognizing the signs early can help you take proactive steps to address it.

Signs of Burnout

• Persistent tiredness or fatigue

• Decreased motivation or interest in work

• Feeling overwhelmed or anxious

• Difficulty concentrating or making decisions

• Physical symptoms such as headaches or insomnia

Strategies for Handling Burnout

1. Take Regular Breaks

Incorporate short breaks throughout your day to rest and recharge. Step away from your work, stretch, or take a walk outside. Regular breaks can prevent mental fatigue and maintain your focus.

Short breaks during work sessions are great and long breaks between projects can prevent burnout on another level. I feel incredibly recharged after a 3 day camping trip where I am able to unplug from technology and life for an extended amount of time!

2. Set Realistic Goals

Avoid overloading yourself with too many projects at once. If you are like me, and have multiple projects on the go, try to focus on the top 2 to 3 so that you can actually complete some and feel good and motivated to continue completing more.

Also, make sure if you are feeling overwhelmed, try breaking down your tasks into manageable steps and setting achievable deadlines. This will help you stay organized and reduce stress.

Using tools to help you achieve your goals can help. Calendars can help you plan goals. I love using a calendar because I can easily see my other commitments and can plan accordingly.

Another tool I live by are these trackers. They have monthly goals or habits for short term planning as well as yearly goals for longer term projects. Game changers!

3. Practice Self-Care

This is an obvious one, but usually overlooked. Make time for activities that nourish your body and mind. This can include exercise, meditation, hobbies, or spending time with loved ones. Self-care is essential for maintaining overall well-being and avoiding burnout.

I suffered from burnout and one thing that helped me in the hardest moments was writing morning pages, as suggested by "The Artist's Way". This book is great to help clear your mind, process thoughts, and uncover new ideas. The journaling is just part of the journey in this book. The thing I like most about it is that it makes self-care part of the homework and forces you to make time for yourself in special ways.

4. Stay Connected with Your Creative Community

Engage with fellow artists and like-minded individuals. Join online forums, attend workshops, or participate in local art events. Sharing experiences and ideas can provide support and inspiration.

5. Create Art for Yourself

Sometimes, making art just for the joy of it, without the pressure of external expectations, can be the most motivating. Go create for creating’s sake.

I often try to do things with the intention of them being something. Something perfect, something for instagram, something for someone. But doing art without that intention, just for yourself, is very very freeing and is not only a good way to stay motivated but also to help burnout while still being creative.

I love to create art with kids. It creates a no pressure and fun way to unwind when you work side by side with them or make something together!

6. Set Boundaries

Learn to say no to projects or commitments that overwhelm you. (This can be hard and takes practice). Prioritize your workload and allocate time for rest. Setting boundaries ensures you have the energy to focus on what truly matters. If it doesn’t allign with your values, your business, your goals, or doesn’t excite you, just say no.

7. Reflect on Your Achievements

Take time to acknowledge and celebrate your accomplishments, no matter how small. I love a good Ta-Da list where you celebrate your accomplishments. Reflecting on your progress can boost your confidence and remind you of your passion for your craft. Instead of looking at others, take time to look at yourself and how far you've come! If you’re a visual person, keep a journal or portfolio of your work. Sometimes I even like to scroll to the beginning of my instagram profile to see where I started. Looking back on your progress can remind you of how far you've come and inspire you to keep going. Celebrate all of your wins.

8. Seek Professional Help if Needed

If burnout persists, consider seeking help from a mental health professional. Therapy or counseling can provide valuable tools for managing stress and improving your mental health.

Staying Motivated

1. Seek Inspiration

Explore different sources of inspiration, such as nature, books, music, or other artists' works. Inspiration can come from unexpected places. I love to visit museums, art shows or craft fairs just to get me excited about creating again.

2. Experiment and Play

This is one of my favorite exercises when I am feeling stuck, uninspired or unmotivated. Experimenting with different forms of art or techniques within pyrography, not only expands your skills, but can reignite your creativity and keep your work exciting.

Allow yourself to experiment with new techniques, materials, or subjects. Playing and exploring can reignite your creativity and make the process more enjoyable.

Sometimes, doing something completely different, like reading, cooking, or gardening, can refresh your mind and spark new ideas. Collaging is one of my favourite things to do as all it requires is to just flip through some magazines and feel out what inspires you. It really gets my creative juices flowing to pick through images and put them together until I get an unexpected design!

3. Set Personal Challenges

Create personal challenges or goals to keep yourself engaged. This could be learning a new pyrography technique, completing a series of artworks, or participating in an art competition. The smaller and more achievable, the better, especially if you’re already feeling some signs of burnout.

4. Create a Vision Board

Visualize your long-term goals and aspirations by creating a vision board. Include images, quotes, and reminders of what inspires you. This visual tool can keep you focused and motivated. It can also be a push to try a new medium, like collage art, mixed media or even digital art.

I love Pinterest for this! I collect all my ideas visually in a board and then further divide ideas and inspiration into sub boards! What is great is that you can keep this private so only you can see it. AND if you want it to show up on your phone, here are instructions on how to do so!

5. Maintain a Balanced Routine

Establish a daily routine that balances work, rest, and recreation. Consistency in your schedule can provide structure and help you stay productive without feeling overwhelmed. Especially being an entrepreneur, it’s easy to just do things with the flow of what we feel like. That’s a perk of working for yourself. However, it can feel like you are very busy but get nothing done… Creating a routine, or at least keeping track of what you’re doing and how long things take can help you understand many things about your workflow and tasks.

6. Document Your Creative Journey

Keep a journal or blog to document your creative journey. Reflecting on your experiences and progress can provide insight and motivation. Keep it private or share your journey with your audience to connect and inspire others.

This can be an art project in itself, or it can be as easy as keeping photos in a folder on your computer with dates on them!

7. Find a Mentor or Coach

Seek guidance from a mentor or coach who understands the challenges of being an artist. Their experience and advice can provide valuable perspectives and encouragement.

Take care of yourself, and your art will flourish.

With mindful practices and proactive strategies, you can manage burnout effectively. You can maintain your passion and continue to thrive as a pyrographer with practicing the points above.

Remember, your art is not just your work—it's a reflection of your unique vision and creativity.

The Artists Way by Julia Cameron

"The Artist's Way" by Julia Cameron a 12-week adventure designed to help anyone rediscover their creative mojo.

Each chapter mixes motivational essays, fun exercises, and some serious soul-searching tasks aimed at breaking down the barriers we set up against our own creativity.

It’s Basia here and I just wanted to take a moment and share this book and the beginning of my journey through it.

Rachel has completed the book several times and said that each time, she seemed to uncover new depths of herself as well as her creativity that even she didn't know existed. She recommended that I give it a try, and I'm embarking on this journey once again, alongside her.

Especially since moving an hour up North, I was in the thick of change and needed some guidance. I felt stuck with which direction to go, art wise, as well as in other facets of my life.

There are a bunch of tasks, and activities and such which go with each week, but there are two things you need to complete every week, consistently.

ONE:

The first is an artists date. This is a date with yourself, the artist, doing whatever it is you want to do! It can be as simple as going for a walk, to visiting the museum, to making a new art piece... It’s a chance to intentionally treat yourself!

My last date included going to the a small local greenhouse with a gardening store attached to it. I didn’t go with the intention of buying anything; I went with the intention of perusing slowly through the isles and looking at all the flowers, taking photos, getting inspired by all the colours, textures and nature. It’s such a simple thing, yet it made a big impact on my mood and inspired me in many ways… It was also really nice to slow down and literally smell the roses.

TWO:

The second part of this journey includes writing daily. It’s journaling but in a freestyle, nonsense way. More like brain dumping than anything.

I've never considered myself a writer; in fact, writing has always given me anxiety and felt like a chore. Previous attempts at journaling felt forced and were invariably brief. It took long and always came out sounding forced.

Julia Cameron suggests this freestyle way of writing that's all about just letting it out. Now I write quickly and freely, without concern for structure, spelling, or even readability. The purpose is to simply let the words flow, knowing I'll never revisit these pages (I actually burn a lot of the pages I write and my writing is so messy, i can barely read it)! This has proven to be incredibly cathartic and freeing with many many many micro epiphanies about myself, my life and everything around me!

My biggest epiphany so far is about the style of writing itself. Writing in this way allows me to slow my mental chatter to one thought at a time, helping me to process each thought thoroughly instead of letting them all swirl around unexamined (and worst of all, usually repeating). It’s a simple, yet profoundly effective, way to clear the mind, which I never knew I had to do… I really never knew this kind of expression existed and I never really knew I needed it!

If you've ever felt stuck, unsure, or just curious about what your creative mind can do, "The Artist's Way" could be a thrilling experiment for you. It’s not just about becoming an artist—it’s about becoming more yourself. You don’t need to be good at drawing, writing, or anything at all; you just need to be open to exploring what creativity means for you.

Click here to see the book on Amazon. This is an affiliate link; I strongly recommend this book to anyone in search of inspiration, self-reflection, self-exploration and motivation.

Possibly, in time, I will share more about my creations and how my dates go, as well as give insight into my journey with this book.

What Does Royalty Free Mean?

"Royalty-free" in the context of art design refers to a licensing method where the purchaser pays a one-time fee to use the artwork without paying additional royalties or license fees for each use or volume sold. This contrasts with other licensing models, like rights-managed or editorial use, which may require ongoing payments based on usage parameters.

Here are some key aspects of royalty-free licenses:

1. Unlimited Use: Once purchased, the buyer can use the royalty-free artwork multiple times for multiple projects without incurring additional costs.

2. Flexible Application: The artwork can be used in a variety of applications, including marketing materials, websites, product packaging, and more, depending on the specifics of the license.

3. Non-Exclusive: Royalty-free licenses are typically non-exclusive, meaning the same artwork can be sold to multiple customers and used by them concurrently.

4. Upfront Cost: The initial cost tends to be higher than that of some other licensing models because it often covers broad usage rights.

** It's important for buyers to read the specific terms of a royalty-free license because restrictions may still apply, such as limitations on resale, modifications, or geographic use.

You're welcome to use our royalty-free templates to create and monetize your own content, but please remember: reselling the template as is, is not allowed. This helps keep it exclusive and valuable for all creators. All our royalty-free templates include a .Jpg, .Png, .Svg, and a .Pdf so users can easily transfer them to any medium.

Check out what templates we have that are free for you to use however you like:

Did you know?

Join the burn club to receive a FREE royalty-free template each month! Last month we gave away this bergamot flower pattern. You can now find it up for sale here.

So what can you use these patterns for?

• Pyrography of course!

• Relief carving

• Painting

• Colouring

• Tracing

• Canva Templates

• POD (print on demand services)

• Creation and sale of unlimited physical items

• So much more

Public Domain Images

"Public domain" refers to creative works that are not protected by intellectual property laws such as copyright, trademark, or patent regulations. This means that these works can be freely used by anyone for any purpose without needing permission from a previous rights holder.

Public domain and royalty-free both allow the use of materials without ongoing license fees but differ significantly. Public domain works are those whose copyright has expired or never existed, allowing anyone to use them freely for any purpose, including modifications and commercial use. In contrast, royalty-free refers to copyrighted works that can be used without paying additional royalties after the initial purchase, though the use may still be subject to specific conditions set by the license. While both provide broad usage rights, public domain offers the utmost freedom with no restrictions, whereas royalty-free use is controlled under the terms of a licensing agreement and may include limitations such as the type of allowed use or distribution volume.

There are many websites which offer royalty free images and public domain content. With these images, you can get inspires and make your own templates by tracing the actual image without worrying about copyright rules.

Here are our top 3 Royalty free/Public Domain sites for images & Videos

1. Pexels:

   These are stock photos, royalty free images & videos shared by creators. You don’t need an account to use some of these images: simply hover over the image you want (ensuring it is the free version) and click “download.

2. Unsplash:

   Very similar to Pexels. Lots of good stock photos and royalty free images and videos. Make sure you are downloading the free content before using.

3. Smithsonian Open Access:

   These is all public domain content. Here you can download, share, and reuse millions of the Smithsonian’s images! It includes images and data from across the Smithsonian’s 21 museums, nine research centers, libraries, archives, and the National Zoo - very cool!

What is the difference between Wood Burning and Pyrography?

Wood burning and pyrography are two terms that are often used interchangeably, but there is a slight difference between the two.

We prefer the term 'pyrography' but recognize that 'wood burning' is more commonly understood so we use both terms interchangeably across all our communication platforms—ranging from our website to verbal interactions and written materials—to ensure clarity and accessibility for all our audience.

Wood burning is the general term used to describe the process of using a heated tool to burn designs onto wood.

It is a subset of pyrography.

Wood burning is often associated with the traditional use of a heated tool (like a wood burning pen) to create art on wooden items. It typically implies a handcrafted approach and may be perceived as more craft-oriented.

This term is often used to describe the process of burning simple designs onto wood, such as lettering or basic shapes. It involves less precise designs and basic patterns.

Pyrography, on the other hand, is a more specialized form of wood burning with more diverse techniques and designs.

It is considered a form of art, and it requires more skill and precision than simple wood burning.

Pyrography typically involves using a specialized tool with temperature control, various tips, and techniques such as shading to create intricate designs.

Pyrography artists may also use stencils or transfer/graphite paper to create a design on the wood surface before burning it as well as hot metal brushes, combs or other objects to create texture.

While both wood burning and pyrography involve burning designs onto a burnable surface using a heated tool,

pyrography is a more intricate and specialized form of wood burning

that involves creating detailed artwork and designs using a variety of techniques and specialized tools.

Basia's Radial Symmetry Art (Digital Form)

Basia here! As you already know, I love to make art with patterns. Especially circular and symmetrical patterns!

I really got into creating digital art because it was just so easy to create on the go. I moved up North and while my things were packed, there were images in my head that I had to get out onto something tangible.

These will definitely inspire my future wood burning work.

Of course, I still stick to nature themed images as they continue to inspire me to create more art and also to get outside more. I moved into the forest, and plan to continue taking more photos and playing with more nature to find and create symmetrical artworks.

These digital artworks were made using procreate using my own photo’s as well as AI photos (using Midjourney).

I am addicted. It is so much fun to create these organized abstract designs!

To see my collection, and get them in a sticker, on a pillow, or even a shower curtain, check out my shop:

Below is a time-lapse of a floral pattern I made using my photos, cut, paste, arranged and then arranged again:

What is radial symmetry to me?

a radial symmetry pattern to me is the end result of a mindfulness journey.

It is what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!)

I use drawing a mandala (wether in digital format or on paper/wood) as a form of meditation.

The repetitive patterns I make help me zone out and immerse myself in each second.

If you want to learn how to make your own pattern (non-digital form), check out the Community Book of Templates (Radial Symmetry Edition) with instructions and a variety of templates for you to transfer onto wood and burn, OR the Art Deco/Art Nouveau style bundle, which I call Presence (digital and hardcopy available) full of templates and also step-by-step instructions to drawing your own patterns.

Once you learn how to draw your patterns, you can easily transfer them (or draw them directly) onto wood!

Click through the following links to learn how to transfer your designs using heat and without using heat!

Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

The difference between a wire tip/nib burner and a solid tip/nib burner primarily lies in their design and functionality.

Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

But first, please remember: The tools we use are undeniably important, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the user and what works best for them. Many artists can create incredible work with the simplest, most affordable tools, showing that skill and creativity matter more than price. On the flip side, even the fanciest tools can feel frustrating if we are learning the craft.

The same goes for wire-tip versus solid-tip pyrography pens—both have their strengths, but the best choice is whatever feels right in your hands and helps you create with ease. In fact, deciding between a solid-tip and a wire-tip tool is a great starting point when choosing your burner, as the functionality between these two types often has a bigger impact on your experience than the differences between machines from different brands. So let’s get into these differences.

Wire Tip/nib Burner:

• Design: Utilizes a closer-to-pen-like device with tips made of a looped wire or a wire nib. On some pens, these tips can be changed out, allowing for a wide variety of tip shapes and sizes (more on interchangeable nibs at the end). The pens are usually thinner and easier to hold, as the grip is located closer to the nib, allowing the pen to feel like an actual pen making it ideal for comfort, especially if you are burning for longer periods at a time.

• Temperature Control: Wire tip burners typically offer more precise temperature control, which can be adjusted quickly. This allows for quicker and more detailed and varied shading techniques.

  I have found that some pens with a thinner handle tend to overheat so be mindful of the company you choose (check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing a new tool).

• Durability: Generally these pens are more delicate than a solid nib making them more susceptible to damage over time. Proper care and a lighter hand will help them last longer.

• Learning Curve: Might have a slightly steeper learning curve due to the delicacy of the wire tips and the precision required in handling them.

• Heat Up Time: Generally, wire tips heat up and cool down much more quickly than solid tips.

Solid Tip/Nib Burner:

• Design: Features a pen-like device with a solid brass or copper tip. The tip variety is usually more limited compared to a wire nib, the pen is thicker and clunkier to hold and the grip is usually further away from the nib making it slightly more difficult to control, especially if burning for longer periods of time.

• Temperature Control: Solid tip burners are usually less precise in temperature control compared to wire tip burners, and adjustments may take longer to affect the tip temperature. However, because they are thick and solid, they do retain the heat better than a wire tip, making them ideal for large projects that require a lot of dark burning.

• Durability: Solid tips tend to be more durable than wire tips because they are less fragile and less susceptible to bending or breaking.

• Learning Curve: For beginners, solid tip burners might be easier to start with due to their durability and less delicate handling requirements.

• Heat Up Time: Solid tips generally take longer to heat up and cool down than wire tips, but, as stated earlier, they retain their hear better than a wire nib does.

Application:

• Wire Tip Burners are usually preferred for detailed art, fine shading, and where quick temperature adjustment is necessary.

• Solid Tip Burners are often used when learning the basics of pyrography due to cost and durability. The heat retention and covering large areas with shading is ideal with these style burners.

which one gets hotteR?

In terms of reaching a higher temperature, both types can be capable of very high temperatures suitable for pyrography. The key difference lies in how quickly they reach these temperatures and how precisely those temperatures can be controlled during the work.

Wire tip burners generally offer faster heat up times and more precise control, making it seem like they can get hotter faster, but in terms of maximum temperature capabilities, it's more about the specific company and its design rather than the tip type alone.

However, there are some general characteristics related to how each type manages and conducts heat that can influence their operating temperatures:

Wire Tip Burners are designed for precise control and can reach very high temperatures quickly due to their thin wire construction, which has less mass to heat. This design allows for rapid heat transfer and adjustment, making them suitable for intricate work that requires changing temperatures quickly for different effects.

Solid Tip Burners, on the other hand, have a larger mass in their tips, which means they take longer to reach the desired temperature. However, once heated, they can retain heat longer due to the larger thermal mass. The heat distribution over the solid tip is more uniform, which can be advantageous for certain types of shading and consistent line work.

Interchangeable nibs on wire tip burners:

Interchangeable nibs for wood burning tools allow artists to switch between different tip styles for various effects in their projects with only one pen. These nibs can range from fine points for detailed work to larger, flat tips for shading or transferring images.

Pros: Interchangeability offers flexibility and creativity, enabling users to achieve a wide range of textures and depths in their art without needing multiple tools. This versatility is particularly valuable for artists looking to explore different techniques or work on projects that require both detailed and broad work. It’s a good way to learn what you like using without spending loads of money.

Cons: Interchangeable nibs, while versatile, can have drawbacks such as requiring time to switch between nibs, which might interrupt the workflow. There's also a learning curve in mastering different nib types for optimal use. Additionally, the delicate nature of some wire nibs can lead to breakage if not handled with care. Exercise caution when tightening to ensure a complete connection, or your heating may not be even. High-quality interchangeable nibs might come with a higher initial cost, although they offer long-term flexibility and savings from not needing multiple dedicated tools.

In summary

Wire-tip tools are lightweight and heat up quickly, offering precision and flexibility for fine details and shading. Solid-tip tools are sturdier and retain heat longer, making them ideal for bold lines and consistent burning on tougher surfaces.

Choosing between them often comes down to personal preference and the type of project you’re working on.

When starting out, due to the low price point, we recommend a solid tip/nib burner (the Versa Tool from Walnut Hollow is our favorite! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15). It gives you a fair chance to know if you will enjoy burning while keeping the price of starting this hobby at a minimum.

These are a good basic tool to have in your toolkit anyways, even if you upgrade to a wire tip. Some artists never even upgrade to another tool but at least you will have that option without breaking the bank.

If you plan on burning more often, want a faster heat-up time, more variety, a more comfortable grip, consider a wire tip burner. Check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing your new tool.

Woodcare 101: Preserving Your Pyrography Art

Pyrography is a beautiful art form that turns simple pieces of wood into timeless works of art. But like all forms of art, your pyrography projects are subject to the ravages of time, exposure, and wear.

Luckily, there are proven ways to protect your artwork and keep it looking as vibrant as the day you made it (or purchased it!).

Rules of thumb:

Keep Out of Moisture

• Especially if unfinished, any water (drips or splashes) can leave permanent marks on your wood. Even a sweaty fingerprint can linger on the surface.

• Enough general moisture can warp and bend the wood. The thinner your wood slice, the less moisture or humidity in the air it takes to start reshaping the wood.

• Long exposure to moisture can cause warping so hang your wood slices away from kitchen sinks, outdoors or any bathrooms…

• DO NOT place wood in dishwashers or let them soak in the kitchen sink

Keep Out Of Sunshine

• Sun will fade finished and unfinished wood slices. Keep out of direct sun to help prolong the inevitable.

• Burning deeply will help keep the artwork looking crisp. Shading and light burning will fade much faster.

Choose the Right Wood for your project

Your first line of defense against wear and tear starts with the type of wood you choose for your projects. Hardwoods like oak and birch generally last longer and are less susceptible to damage compared to softwoods like pine. If possible, go for kiln-dried wood, which has reduced moisture content, making it less prone to warping and cracking.

Check out this blog post for more information on wood: Best Wood for Pyrography

Sealing the Wood

Sealing your pyrography artwork with a finish adds a layer of protection against moisture, dirt, and UV rays. It also enhances the visual elements of your design by adding a glossy or matte finish.

If your artwork is going to be displayed outdoors or in a sunny location, consider using a UV-protective sealant. This helps in preventing the colors from fading and the wood from turning gray. For added moisture protection, particularly for outdoor pieces, use marine-grade sealants. Some resin’s also protect your wood from the elements. BE AWARE! Even with the most porotection you can apply, overtime, the weather will alter the look and colour of the wood, especially in harsher climates prone to freezing or humidity.

Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

keeping your cutting boards, wooden spoons and other functional art looking like it did on day one is possible with a little bit of maintenance.

To prevent discoloration, cracking, warping and fading, follow the instructions below:

• Keep away from excessive moisture (do not soak the product or run it through the dishwasher): hand wash only

• Wax or oil your products: the more you use your stuff, the more you will need to oil it. I recommend oiling once a month (or every other month) for products that are used daily. Use the colour and texture of the wood to judge when to oil; if it looks lighter and dry, it’s time. Oiling or waxing your wood will enhance the richness and prevent any cracking. Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

Handling and Cleaning

Always handle your pyrography art with clean and dry hands to avoid transferring oils and dirt onto the wood surface. To clean your artwork, gently wipe it down with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using water or cleaning products as they can penetrate the sealant and stain/damage the wood.

Storage Tips

If you need to store your pyrography artwork:

• Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• Avoid storing it in damp or humid areas to prevent mold and warping.

• Consider wrapping it in acid-free paper for extra protection.

• Protect the corners of your art by wrapping with pieces of cardboard and taping them secure.

Your pyrography artwork is not just a piece of wood; it's a piece of you. Like any valuable object, it deserves to be treated with care and respect. Proper preservation techniques will help you enjoy your creations for many years to come.

Burning is Art. Art is Therapy.

While many people enjoy pyrography as a hobby or artistic pursuit, it can also be a powerful tool for promoting relaxation and mental well-being.

“Burning is art. Art is therapy”

Rachel Struass

Here are some reasons pyrography can be used to support mental health:

Stress Relief:

One of the benefits of pyrography is its ability to promote stress relief. When engaging in this activity, individuals are often able to disconnect from the stressors in their daily lives and focus solely on their creative pursuits. It can provide a distraction from everyday life. When you're focused on the activity, you may be less likely to ruminate on negative thoughts. This can help reduce stress levels and promote a sense of calm.

Mindfulness:

Pyrography also encourages mindfulness, which is the practice of being present and fully engaged in the moment. When working on a pyrography project, individuals must focus their attention on the details of the design, which can help them remain mindful and present. Wood burning requires us to go slower than we are used to with other mediums. This slowed down pace can induce a state of "flow," which is characterized by complete absorption in the task at hand.

Improved Mood:

Studies have shown that engaging in creative activities can improve mood and promote a sense of well-being. Pyrography is no exception. By providing a creative outlet, this art form can help individuals feel a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, leading to improved mood.

Increased Self-Expression:

Pyrography allows individuals to express themselves in a unique and personal way. By choosing their own designs and colors, individuals can create pieces that are reflective of their personal style and preferences. Wood burning allowing you to express your emotions, thoughts, and ideas in a nonverbal way. This can help increase self-expression and boost confidence.

Sense of Community:

Here, at Wood Burn Corner we are all about community and sharing each others art with the world. Being part of Burn Club can provide a sense of belonging and social support, which can be beneficial for mental health. We support and healp each other through the ups and downs of learning a new skill and art form as well the trials and tribulations of owning a creative business. If you want to know how to get more involved in the community, click here!

Pyrography is an excellent activity for promoting relaxation, mindfulness, and mental well-being. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced artist, engaging in this activity can provide a range of mental health benefits, including stress relief, improved mood, and increased self-expression.

Now, pair up pyrography with radial symmetry and it becomes a whole new world of practicing mindfulness!

Radial Symmetry patterns, also commonly known as a Mandala, have been recognized by psychology as a therapeutic tool. Swiss psychologist Carl Jung said they’re like representations of our mind. He thought they made it easier for us to concentrate on, transform, and internalize subconscious thoughts. His belief was that we project our emotions and thoughts into the mandala designs.

“For me, a radial symmetry pattern, or a mandala inspired art piece, is the end result of a mindfulness journey.”

-Basia Chmielowic

These repetitive patterns are what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!).

It is a form of meditation for me as the repetition of each pattern allows me not to think about the end result, but rather a focus on each small section at a time.

Repeating the same design helps me zone out and immerse myself in the moment.

Two ways to learn how to draw your own mandala designs:

1. Read:

Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes as well as pyrography basics.

The Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco & art nouveau movements. No pyro information but links to resources to get you started.

These two items each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with. Either way, you will learn to create endless unique radial symmetry designs!

2. Watch:

A step-by-step video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns and how to wood burn them:

CA$15.00

Quantity:

Add to cart

Or the video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns without the pyro part:

CA$10.00

Quantity:

Add to cart

Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist

There are many surfaces one can burn on when it comes to pyrography. From egg shell to canvas, the world is your oyster! One rule of thumb to stick to is burning only on natural surfaces (versus human made or chemically treated items). Grab your Free Safety Guide to stay safe while burning. If you like experimenting, you can check out the blog post: Pyrography on Odd Objects.

The most common surface for pyrography is on wood!

Wood is usually readily available and comes in many different shapes, sizes, and colors It makes for a great canvas for wood burning. There are many different species of wood to choose from. Read on to learn more about wood or check out the Top 9 Wood Species to Burn On according to us and the wood burning community! There are also different ways wood reacts to burning on depending on how it was cut…

Always be mindful of what you are burning on. Some wood smoke is poisonous: check out the blog post about Which Woods to Avoid Burning On.

Wood Basics

Hardwood verus Softwood

The main difference between the two is not necessarily the density of the wood but rather the type of tree they come from.

Hardwoods are usually broad-leaved (deciduous) trees - the ones that loose their leaves every fall. Examples include ash, beech, birch, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut.

Softwoods are evergeen (coniferous) trees - the tree’s that have needles and cones that stay green year round. Examples include basswood, cedar, cypress, fir, pine, spruce, and redwood.

Generally, softwoods are cheaper because they grow faster and in abundance. Because of this, they are less durable so they are used more for building materials like lumber, plywood, and paper products. Hardwood is more common in high quality furniture, decks and flooring due to its hardness and durability.

The softer the wood is, it can be said that the easier it is to burn on. However, because of the way these tree’s woods differ, they make for very different canvases when burning on them using pyrography techniques…

Softwood tree’s (typically evergreens) create sap. Sap is not our friend in pyrography, especially when first learning the craft. Very often, common woods like pine are sappy and tricky to burn on. Although I have heard of some artists enjoying burning on pine, we would recommend trying a different wood for your first time.

WOOD Slices

The way a log is cut will change your canvas shape and the way your tool works on the wood’s surface.

As you can see here, the edge grain is the outer edge of your slice.

The end grain is the end of a log. This cut is vertical (when looking at a cut tree, like in this photo of the log on the ground) and typically gives you a circular wood slice with bark all around the edges (or none if trimmed off). The grain here is visible in rings.

A face grain cut is the log cut horizontally (on a log laying on the ground) which can give you square or rectangular wood slice canvases and only two edges will be covered in bark (or none if those are trimmed off). The wood grain is visible across the surface and generally spans horizontally across the wood. The wood is usually referred to as planks with this cut.

Wood Grain

and how it Affects pyrography

A common way to explain the grain of wood is using a handful of straws. Renee of @it’sdavidandrenee brought this up at our Pyrography Summit as an example to explain the way finishes (ie. paints, stains etc…) react when applied depending on the way the wood is cut.

This is also true for pyrography. The grain of the wood can affect the flow of your tools on the surface, the texture and appearance of the burned lines, as well as the overall quality of the final artwork.

Imagine the straws as a log. When you cut an end grain piece, you will usually get a circular shape. This makes all the “straws holes” face up. They are porous and will suck in any liquids, stains, paints etc… Burning on this is slightly harder so generally you need more heat and a consistent speed.

Cut it the other way, face grain, and you get the length of the straws. Burning along the grain (following the grain, up and down in the photo to the right) is easier as the nib of the tool usually falls into a grain groove and burn along it. Burn against the grain (side to side) and you can get little blobs of burn, or stop marks as you move across - try turning your heat down and have more of a consistent speed. Look ahead for any grain lines so you can adjust your speed. Reduce your pressure and let the burner do the work as you just gently, but firmly, guide it.

So what wood is the best to burn on?

We have compiled a list of woods that we enjoy burning on for a variety of reasons. These include Amazon Associate links to great options for these particular wood varieties. In a nutshell, below are our top 9 woods for pyrography.

You can check out this blog post to see why: Best Wood for Pyrography

1. Basswood

2. Cherry

3. Birch

4. Aspen

5. Walnut

6. Maple

7. Sourwood

8. Poplar

9. Cedar

---

Want to learn more about pyrography?

Join the Burn Club Community

or check out this blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible (especially light shading) so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece. Learn more about how to avoid this here: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

***Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, or if you sanded in the wrong direction, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

---

Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe. Always look for the words “food safe”

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

---

General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable. However, polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects..
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand. We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice and find it lasts the longest without clouding or yellowing. Also, any information you may need to finsish a project is easy to find on their website and if you are really stuck, the customer service is absolutely amazing!

Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin. To learn more about this, check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

A Radial Symmetry Guide and Colouring Book

This is a radial symmetry guide, a collection of 25 unique colouring designs, three blank grids and six outlines to doodle in providing a gateway to a world of mesmerizing patterns, relaxing mindfulness and endless creativity.

For all you pyrography artists, the 25 designs are also made for traceability so you can transfer/trace and burn them! Instructions to that are included on the initial download with the digital version.

Designed to help both novices and seasoned artists explore the captivating realm of radial symmetry, this book guides you step-by-step through the creation of intricate and balanced designs.

The first half of the book dives into all the details from making a grid, to 7 different creative variations of a circular pattern.

The intention is to give you the knowledge and easy to follow instructions for you to continue making one-of-a-kind radial symmetry patterns using only a few basic tools.

It includes 3 blank grids for you to practice on. Print out as many as you like with the digital download!

And it also includes 6 outlines (in 3 different styles) for you to practice on and doodle in along with a simple creativity exersize to get you going.

The second half of the book has 25 original patterns for you to colour and reimagine. Inspired by the art deco and art nouveau artistic movements, the intention with these finished patterns is the get you inspired, relaxed and also hone in your artistic skills.

Grab your favourite colouring tools, let your imagination soar, and get ready for a transformative artistic journey!

Download a digital copy to easily resize any design in the book and wood burn onto a wood slice using the art of pyrography!

Links to all the resources you need are included and are free.

Embracing the New Year: A Guide to Setting Goals

As the New Year approaches, the air fills with a sense of renewal and opportunity. It's a time when many of us reflect on the past year's journey and set our sights on what lies ahead. Setting goals for the New Year is a tradition as old as time, serving as a catalyst for personal growth and achievement. But how do we set goals that inspire us, push us forward, and are realistically achievable?

A great podcast to listen to is by Dr. Andrew Huberman, a neuroscientist and professor, who makes goal setting less intimidating and more impactful. Take a listen here: The Science of Setting & Achieving Goals and read on!

Here's a guide, with the help of our own experiences, Burn Club Plussers experiences, and Hubermans expertise to setting meaningful goals for the New Year:

Reflect on the Past, Envision the Future

Before setting new goals, take a moment to reflect on the past year. Really block out time here from all distractions and find yourself a quiet spot to think. What were your successes and setbacks? What lessons did you learn? Reflection provides valuable insights that can shape your future goals.

Envision what you want the upcoming year to look like. Imagine the accomplishments, the personal growth, and the happiness you wish to achieve. Huberman emphasizes the importance of having clear, defined goals. He suggests visualizing not just the end goal but the process required to achieve it. This mental rehearsal can prepare the mind and body for the tasks ahead and increase the likelihood of success.

Personally, this exersize of visualization really helped clarify the larger goals and all its smaller steps. It can be in the form of a mental exersize, a Pinterest collage, or even a magazine collage. Whatever works for you to really see what you want clearly.

Set SMART Goals

SMART goals are Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound. This framework helps in setting clear and attainable objectives. For example, instead of saying, "I want to be healthier," a SMART goal would be, "I want to exercise for 30 minutes, five days a week, and eat five servings of fruits and vegetables daily."

Break Bigger Goals into Actionable Steps

Large goals can often seem daunting. Break them down into smaller, manageable tasks. If your goal is to write a book, start with writing a certain number of words each day or outline one chapter per week. Small steps lead to big achievements over time and provide the opportunity to celebrate along the way!

Dopamine, a neurotransmitter associated with pleasure and motivation, plays a significant role in goal setting and achievement. Huberman advises understanding how to manage and optimize dopamine levels through rewarding progress, breaking down goals into smaller, achievable tasks, and maintaining a balance between challenge and reward.

He also discusses how moderate stress can be beneficial in the context of goal setting. It can enhance focus and performance, acting as a motivator. However, managing stress levels is crucial, as too much stress can be counterproductive. Along with self care and life balance, breaking up goals can be a great way to manage the stress and not overwhelm oneself with a large goal.

Hold Yourself Accountable

Keep track of your progress and celebrate small victories along the way. Consider maintaining a journal or using an app to monitor your journey towards your goals. Or if you, like me, prefer using the old fashion pen and paper, try an accountability tracker. Not only is it satisfying to mark off each day’s goals, but it is also a visual reminder of your progress

Click here for the radial symmetry Trackers we use (like you see here).

Dr. Andrew Huberman emphasizes the importance of strategic goal setting and accountability. According to Huberman, sharing goals with others can sometimes trigger a premature sense of accomplishment, reducing the drive to actually achieve the goal. He suggests a more nuanced approach: share your goals selectively with those who can offer constructive feedback or support, rather than seeking widespread validation.

Huberman also highlights the value of internal accountability, where setting clear, measurable objectives and regularly reviewing progress can significantly enhance motivation and likelihood of success. He encourages individuals to leverage the brain's reward system by celebrating small wins along the way, which can sustain momentum and foster a sense of achievement throughout the journey toward larger goals. By understanding the neurological and psychological aspects of goal setting and accountability, individuals can tailor their approach for maximum effectiveness and personal fulfillment.

Prioritize Self-Care

While pursuing goals, remember to prioritize your well-being. Set goals that encourage a balanced life, incorporating elements of work, rest, play, and personal growth.

In his podcast, Huberman speaks about creating an environment conducive to success. This includes managing distractions, ensuring adequate sleep for brain function, and considering the timing of tasks aligned with individual circadian rhythms.

Self-care isn't just about relaxation; it's about doing what's necessary to maintain your mental, emotional, and physical health.

Embrace Flexibility

Life is unpredictable, and your path to achieving goals may need to adjust. Be flexible and open to change. It's important to remember that the path to any worthwhile achievement is often laden with obstacles and setbacks. Rather than viewing these as failures, consider them part of the learning and growth process.

If an approach isn't working, pivot and try something new. Flexibility helps you stay resilient and persistent.

Stay Positive and Patient

Goal setting is an optimistic endeavor. Stay positive and patient with yourself. Some goals will require more time and effort than anticipated. Embrace the journey, learn from the process, and keep pushing forward.

One thing Basia loves to do is create affirmations that she can personalize using Canva. She have them show up on her phone so she can be reminded about her goals, ambitions or just to provide a little motivation everyday to keep at it.

As you embark on this New Year, remember that setting goals is about more than just listing desires—it's about creating a roadmap for a fulfilling year ahead. It's about understanding where you are, deciding where you want to be, and taking proactive steps to get there. With thoughtful planning, commitment, and a positive mindset, you're well on your way to making this New Year a truly transformative one.

Remember also that goal setting isn't only confined to the start of a new year; it's a beneficial practice that can be undertaken at any time. Engaging in goal setting sessions throughout the year allows for continuous growth, adaptation to change, and the ability to seize the moment whenever inspiration strikes.

Happy goal setting!