11 Tiny Pyrography Project Ideas

Sometimes, the best way to hone your pyrography skills isn’t by tackling big, time-consuming projects—it’s by embracing the small ones. Tiny pyro projects are perfect for quick practice, thoughtful gifts, or even selling at craft fairs. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced wood burner, these 11 ideas will inspire you to create something small but impactful.

*For safety reasons, make sure your surface is UNFINISHED, clean and dry. Check out our safety tips here: Safety in Wood Burning

**Some of the products or materials mentioned in this post may include affiliate links, primarily through Amazon. This means that if you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend items I have tried and love.

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1. Guitar Picks

Burn cool designs onto wooden guitar picks for a customized, artistic touch. Add initials, music notes, or tiny flames to make each pick unique.

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2. Hammer

A wooden-handled hammer is the perfect canvas for a functional yet artistic pyrography project.

Whether engraving a name, a special date, or intricate designs along the handle, burning into wood transforms an everyday tool into a meaningful keepsake.

A personalized hammer makes a great gift for woodworkers, DIY enthusiasts, or anyone who appreciates craftsmanship with a personal touch.

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3. Bookmarks

Create beautiful, durable wooden bookmarks that will last a lifetime! Using thin wooden strips, burn floral borders, geometric designs, or even your favorite book quote.

A simple ribbon or leather tie at the top adds a perfect finishing touch.

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4. Tiny Magnets

Wood-burned magnets are a fantastic way to add personality to any fridge or magnetic board.

Use small wood rounds or squares, burn designs onto them, and attach a magnet to the back.

Personalized initials (or the whole alphabet!), miniature animals, or symbols are great choices for these tiny canvases.

Check out our full tutorial on these cute little magnets here: Make Mini Fridge Magnets

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5. Keychains

Small enough to carry everywhere but detailed enough to make a statement, pyrography keychains make perfect gifts, souvenirs, or even small-scale art for sale.

With endless design possibilities, each burn brings warmth, character, and a little piece of nature into your pocket. Try burning on these classic wood slices, leather or other wood designs for this fun project!

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6. Earrings, Pendant or Jewelry Charms

Lightweight wooden shapes can be transformed into custom earrings or necklace charms. Burn intricate patterns, abstract designs, or tiny flowers onto them, then add earring hooks or jump rings for an instant wearable art piece.

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7. Pocket Affirmations

Create small wooden tiles or small paper ones with positive affirmations or tiny symbols of encouragement. These can be carried in a pocket or a wallet and kept or given as little reminders to friends and loved ones.

Below are some pyrography themed ideas that can turn a small piece of wood into a meaningful keepsake:

• Burn bright

• Ignite your passion

• Steady as the roots

• Embers never fade

• Flame within

• Grow like the forest

• Fuel your fire

• Rooted in strength

• Let it smolder, then blaze

• Carve your own path

• Let sparks fly

• The forest whispers wisdom

• Rise like smoke

• From ash, we rise

• Fire and focus

• Stand tall like the trees

• Glow softly, burn fiercely

• Wood, fire, spirit

• Kindle your light

• Forge your way

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8. MAgic wand

Challenge yourself by burning on a small branch or chopstick. Sand either to make your surface smooth and look like a wand! This tiny project is perfect for adding intricate details like swirling vines, celestial symbols, or ancient runes along the shaft.

Burned textures can create a natural grip, while spirals or tiny stars give the wand an enchanted feel. Whether used as a whimsical desk ornament, a costume prop, or a personalized gift, a hand-burned wand brings a touch of mystery and creativity to any collection.

Finish with a light wood stain or natural beeswax to enhance the details and give it an aged, mystical look.

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9. Mini Plant Markers

Upgrade your garden with handcrafted plant markers. Burn the names of herbs, flowers, or vegetables onto small wooden sticks or popsicle sticks.

Not only are they functional, but they also add a rustic charm to any garden or indoor plant collection.

Check out this blog post for step by step instructions: DIY Wood Burned Plant Marker

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Burned by Aly of @alyoopsartistry

10. Music Box

A small wooden music box is a perfect canvas for pyrography, allowing for intricate designs on the lid and sides.

You can create a vintage feel with aged wood effects or carve out tiny borders for added elegance. This tiny project is a great way to add a personal, artistic touch to a functional keepsake, making it an ideal gift or sentimental treasure.

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11. Dice or Game Pieces

Love tabletop games? Make your own custom dice or game pieces by burning numbers, symbols, or even tiny illustrations onto small wooden cubes.

Whether you create a simple tic-tac-toe set or a fully customized RPG (Role-Playing Game) dice set, this project is a fun challenge.

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Tiny pyrography projects are a fantastic way to practice your skills without committing to large pieces.

They’re quick, satisfying, and make wonderful handmade gifts. Whether you’re making something for yourself or selling your art, these small projects prove that even the tiniest burned details can leave a big impression.

What’s the smallest pyrography project you’ve ever made? Let me know in the comments!

Metallic Gold and Wood

I am obsessed with metallics—there’s something about the way they catch the light and shift with every angle that makes them feel almost alive. But what I love even more is pairing that shimmer with something completely opposite, like the raw, organic texture of wood. There’s a contrast between the two that makes the shine feel even more dramatic.

Here is how this started.

A single mushroom and a gold gel pen. The idea was simple—just a touch of shimmer to highlight the design. But as I slowly filled it in, I realized how long it was taking (I was using a gel pen), and my mind started wandering. Were there better ways to add metallics to wood? Could I get the same shine with less effort? Or MORE shine????? That curiosity sent me down a rabbit hole, testing as many metallic mediums as I could get my hands on. As you can see in this little mushroom, I ran out of room…

So, I grabbed a wood round and an end grain piece and tried out a variety of metallic mediums to see how they performed. The results? Not as much difference between the two wood surfaces as I expected, but definitely some interesting discoveries when it came to the materials themselves.

Oh, I also experimented with adding an underlayer (check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood) but I did not see a massive difference with or without it. I think the most important piece here is to have the wood sanded smoothly.

Here is what I tested

(from my most favourite to least) and the results I found:

• Gold foil

• Gold leaf

• Acrylic markers

• Watercolors

• Calligraphy ink

• Metallic gel pen

• Metallic pencil crayons

• Water-based paint markers

Gold foil

This is my dream medium! I only tried the Deco Foil brand in gold but it comes in SOOOO many different colours including the classic rainbow irridescent one. All of them are so solid and so juicy looking.

It’s fairly easy to apply: Put a liquid down solution down, it dries, then you apply the gold foil. The liquid part of gold foil (and gold leaf) application is typically called gilding adhesive or size. It does dry, but it stays tacky until the gold foil/leaf is applied. It seems straightforward but, as you can see in the video at the beginning, it does take a little bit of practice. Here are some tips I learned along the way:

1. You need patience: I tried to put the foil on too quickly and it was not fully dried so it didn’t stick.

2. Do not overapply: Its hard to get a smooth consistent thickness. If it’s too thick, it can stay gummy and not dry evenly.

3. Do not underapply: If it’s too thin, the wood can absorb it and so it dries without the tackiness. I think that is what happened on some of the edges of the mushrooms with both the gold leaf and foil. The leaf/foils just didnt adhere perfectly, especially in the tiny spaces.

4. Better on flat surfaces: The application process, as you can see in the picture, is the gold medium on a plastic film. Once you press the gold side to the gilding adhesive, the gold sticks and the plastic part is clear. Tis is not ideal for rounded, bumpy or imperfect surfaces (like if you want the bark gold).

For the perfect finish, next time I will ignore the burn lines and my details and just add the foil on top and then use an tiny knife or needle to gently dig them out if the burn lines if they do get stuck in there. It’s a delicate medium so its not difficult and I think it’s worth the work to have a perfect edge.

There were two different ways of applying the liquid. First was a pen/marker style and the other a paintbrush.

• Marker Style: I really disliked this. I found it took really long in large areas and was hard to get into super small areas because the tip was so thick. If I went over some spots to make it thicker, it would almost scratch the first layer off.

• Paintbrush: This applied like white glue. It just flows out of the bottle. It says not to leave strokes but that was really tricky, especially if the wood is not sanded perfectly. BUT I was able to use different sized brushes, getting into the nooks and crannies of my design. It was a much more pleasant experience than the marker, even being able to see some strokes. This liquid was actually meant for the gold leaf, but works with the deco foil too.

This is the pen/marker style applicator.

This one applies like a white glue (link is to the deco foil brand).

Gold leaf

Gold leaf is VERY comparable to the gold foil in the final look.

The application however... It is the same process as the foil; the gilding adhesive (liquid solution) is applied and the leaf sheets placed on top (once the adhesive dries and becomes tacky).

But the gold foil is very delicate. The sheets are super super thin and I felt some was wasted because they stuck to my fingers - you’re supposed to use tweezers but when I tried, it was too aggressive and ripped little pieces off… At one point I laughed too hard and pieces blew all over the place.

I just used the paintbrush application as I did not like the marker style one.

It’s a little more forgiving than gold foil when it comes to adhesion. I felt the foil was finicky and needed a perfect glue application but the leaf, because it’s so delicate, adhered to more.

Also, if you want to cover round areas, or bark that is jagged and imperfect - gold leaf would be ideal. It’s easy to get into any uneven space, not like the gold foil.

There are different colours now and even cool variegated patterns (having multiple colors or variations in color, often in a random or patterned way). These kinda look like weathered metal. I am yet to see the classic rainbow iridescent one (which I will be using in the gold foil for my next project so stay tuned)! I announce these fun things in The Burn Club, so if you aren’t signed up to this monthly(ish) newsletter and want to know what I am up to, sign up here.

Acrylic markers

I LOOOOOVE THESE oil-based paint pens! They have such good coverage, and they are supply easy to apply - just colour it in like a regular marker!

Artistro has a water-based version so make sure you get the acrylic one because there is a day and night difference!

These ones are no gold leaf or gold foil but still are shiny and metallic.

Use the coupon code WBC at checkout for an extra 10%off!

You need to shake these up to make sure the metallic-ness comes out. The tip comes unused so it needs a bit of pumping at the beginning, but it doesn’t take too long.

I was worried about them drying up, but I have let mine sit for a few months and it still flows nicely!
I used them in my sketchbook (on paper) and they are just as beautiful!

Watercolours

Soft, shimmery and controllable shine! So close to the acrylic markers, but because you need water and a brush for these, I chose them to be in 4th place.

The shine is stunning though!

These are from Zahra Ammar and she handmakes them! Check her shop out here. She sells other things, so you can peruse through her stunning artwork, or scroll to the bottom to see what she has available.

I will probably dive into watercolours themselves and experiment with a few brands because they are fun and versatile - you can add a thin layer of gold so you can see your beautiful wood grain AND have a shimmer or you can lay it on thick so there is no transparency. The acrylic markers can’t do this…

In the meantime, if your interested and have some watercolors already, check out: Adding Watercolor to Wood

Calligraphy ink

This ink medium really surprised me. I love the tone of gold compared to the others. It is more yellow than green (but that is something you can usually choose). It also came out more metallic than I expected.

The application was interesting. Normally, it is meant for a pen like tool, like this one I am holding. Using this tool, you can get a very consistent gold line - great for outlines and details.

I, however, wanted to fill in the whole mushroom cap, so I dropped it on the wood with the dropper and then used a paintbrush to spread it. It spread nicely but the liquid was a little finicky. You need to let the bubbles settle after shaking it up, otherwise it comes out a little curdly. Or I didn’t shake it enough… You need to shake this up a lot!

Metallic gel pen

These gel pens are really good (the silver and white are equally awesome). The application was smooth and from all the brands I’ve tried so far, I like this one the best (but it was also brand new, so maybe that has something to do with it…). I guess more experimentation is needed.

The shine is present, but still not super metallic.

I love this though because it’s easy to control - like a normal pen, and you can get super super small details!

Going over one spot creates a little bit of scratch lines which I really don’t like, so I think i will stick to using this for details instead of larger areas (which is fine because it takes a while to fill in a large area with such a small tip).

Water-based paint markers

Same as the acrylic version of these, the application is amazing - just colour in like a regular marker. The coverage is good, but the shine is nothing compared to the acrylic ones. I feel like you need to mix/shake them very very very well - more than the acrylic… These are the ones I used.

Use the coupon code WBC at checkout for an extra 10%off!

What I did like about them was that they are still “metalic” looking, AND they are easy to wash away, because they are water-based. This means I can let my daughter use them freely.

Metallic pencil crayons

More texture, less shimmer. I like my colours rich and heavy, and these fell a little flat, especially compared to all the other options.

Pressing hard while using them felt like I was denting the wood a tiny bit making it look a little scratched… SO I had to do layer by layer.

I also don’t love that its not solid metallic, its more sparkly. It’s like a goldish tone/colour but has tiny little silver sparkles in it. Not super metallic….

Have you tried metallics on wood before? What’s your favorite medium?

What Do Tree Rings Mean?

Trees aren’t just big, beautiful leafy giants. They’re like nature’s diary, quietly keeping track of what’s been happening year after year.

Tree rings tell the story of a tree’s life, reflecting years of growth influenced by environmental conditions.

When working with wood for pyrography, the natural grain and growth patterns play a big role in how the wood responds to a heated tool.

Variations in the rings create differences in wood density, which can affect how evenly it burns. Some areas may require more heat to achieve the same depth of burn, while others might be prone to cracking. Understanding these natural patterns helps artists choose the right wood and adjust their techniques for the best results.

Lets Start At The Beginning.

The center of the tree rings is called the pith.

It’s the very first part of the tree that formed when it started growing as a seedling. The pith is important because:

1. It Helps Identify Growth Patterns

The position of the pith in a wood slice can tell you how the tree grew:

• If the pith is in the exact center, the tree had even growth on all sides.

• If the pith is off-center, the tree may have experienced uneven growth due to environmental factors (e.g., leaning toward sunlight, growing on a slope, or stress from wind).

2. It Shows How the Tree Handled Stress

• If a tree experienced injuries, disease, or environmental challenges, the rings around the pith may be uneven or distorted.

• In this image above, the fact that there seem to be two centers suggests the tree may have faced early damage or split growth. More on that below.

3. It Affects the Wood’s Strength and Usage

• The pith is often softer and weaker than the surrounding wood.

• In woodworking or pyrography, we should try to avoid using wood slices with cracks around the pith because they are more likely to split over time, unless of course that is part of the vibe. Often the working with the natural cracks and knots of the wood is the most fun!

It Looks Like This Slice Has Two Piths

The appearance of two centers in the wood slice suggests the tree experienced early disruption, such as a forked growth where two competing trunks merged or a large branch fused into the trunk. Both scenarios result in irregular growth patterns, affecting the wood’s density and stability.

For pyrography, these variations can impact how evenly the wood burns, with denser areas near knots requiring more heat and potentially causing uneven burning or cracking.

What Tree Rings Say About a Tree’s Life

By counting the rings from the center outward, you can estimate how old the tree was when it was cut (for most tree’s - but not all of them)!

Each ring shows a year in the life of the tree.

Each ring is comprised of a light colour and dark colour ring: during spring and early summer, there is more water available and trees grow faster, forming a lighter, wider band called “earlywood.” As the year winds down into late summer and fall, moisture is reduced and growth slows; the tree adds a darker, denser band called “latewood.” Put those together, and you’ve got one year of growth.

Count the rings from the center to the edge, and you’ve got the tree’s age. But the story doesn’t stop there—the size, color, and little details in the rings reveal a lot more about what’s been going on.

Here is a good example image from NASA’s Global Climate Change News!

Good Times vs. Tough Times

• Wide rings: These happen during good years with plenty of rain, sunshine, and solid nutrients in the soil.

• Narrow rings: These pop up during tough years when there’s drought, bad weather, or not-so-great soil conditions.

Fun fact: Tree’s that grow in dry climates, versus wet ones can be the same age but the one growing in wet conditions are double, triple or more the size because their rings are wider!

Big Events Tree rings can capture snapshots of major events, like:

• Fires: If a tree survived a fire, you might see scars or weird patterns in the rings.

• Floods: Rings can look a little funky when the soil stays soaked for too long.

• Drought: Dry years usually mean skinny rings.

• Other Damage: A storm, pests, or even people can mess with a tree’s growth and leave marks in the rings.

• Disease: Some tree illnesses can leave their own signature in the wood.

Trees, History and Climate

Tree rings are like a cheat sheet for studying natural events in the past and also how the climate has changed over time. They give us a glimpse into weather patterns, temperatures, and even big shifts in the atmosphere. All this info helps us understand what’s happening now by looking at what’s happened before.

For example, in this article: A multifault earthquake threat for the Seattle metropolitan region revealed by mass tree mortality (Science Advances, 27 Sep 2023) scientists used tree rings from submerged forests in the area to uncover evidence of past earthquakes. A major quake around 900 C.E. caused landslides that drowned trees, and their sudden growth changes mark the event. This research helps date ancient earthquakes and shows the risk of multifault ruptures, which could lead to bigger, more destructive quakes in the future!

A Wood Burner’s Perspective

As someone who loves pyrography, I think tree rings add extra magic to every piece. Each burn interacts with those natural lines, bringing out the unique story in the wood.

The density and grain pattern of the wood will influence how a pyrography tool interacts with the surface. Woods with tighter grains may require different techniques compared to those with wider grain spacing. The species matters as well as the conditions it grew in. So wild!

Tree rings aren’t just about counting years. They’re about understanding the ups and downs, the struggles and wins, and the history of the world around us. So, the next time you’re looking at a tree or working on a piece of wood, take a second to appreciate the story hidden in those rings. It’s nature’s way of saying, “Here’s what I’ve been through.”

To learn more about wood, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist

The Best Hanging Options for Your Wood Art

When you've spent hours crafting a beautiful wood-burning piece, the last thing you want is to struggle with how to display it properly. Hanging wood art requires a secure method that complements the piece while ensuring durability. Whether you’re working with thick slabs, lightweight panels, or odd-shaped pieces, there are multiple options to consider. Here’s a breakdown of the best ways to hang wood art, from traditional to creative solutions.

*This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you purchase through the provided links. This helps support my work and allows me to continue sharing valuable content. Thank you for your support!

1. Sawtooth Hangers

These are my go-to for when I started making art pieces, and now, when I am in a time crunch (if I have the option, I will go for the keyhole hanger). Sawtooth hangers are easy-to-install and one of the most common. The link here is to a large quantity of them which is good if you are making many pieces. Stores like Home depot or Rona sell them individually but buying them one by one means you are paying much more per piece.

They are small metal brackets with serrated edges that grip onto nails or screws. Simply hammer or screw them onto the back of your piece, and it’s ready to hang. These work best for lightweight to medium-sized wood pieces.

Since the hanger is long, you have a little more forgiveness with the placement of the hanger. Unlike the rest of the hanger options below, this style is great for oval or misshaped wood where its tricky to tell the center gravity point..

Pros:

• Affordable and easy to find

• Quick installation

• Ideal for small to medium pieces

• Ideal for misshaped wood slices

Cons:

• Not suitable for very heavy wood

• May not work well with uneven or rough wood backs

2. D-Ring Hangers

D-ring hangers offer a more stable option for heavier wood pieces. These are metal loops that screw into the back of your piece, allowing you to attach hanging wire or hook them directly onto nails.

Same as above, buying them individually will cost you a lot more per piece than buying them in bulk.

Pros:

• Great for heavy pieces

• Provides more stability than sawtooth hangers

• Can be used with wire for adjustable hanging

Cons:

• Requires precise placement for even hanging

• Needs additional tools like a drill and screws

3. Wire Hanging System

For larger wood-burning pieces, using a wire system with D-rings a great solution. Attach 2 D-rings to the back and then the wire to both, allowing for easy wall placement. You can get wire system that attaches to a screw, instead of using 2 a d-rings.

Pros:

• Adjustable height after installation

• Supports slightly heavier pieces

• Works well with gallery-style displays

Cons:

• Requires more setup and tools

• Wire may stretch over time and need adjustments

• D-rings may still not be strong enough if wood is large and very heavy

4. Eye Screws

A great option for very small pieces! Eye screws are a simple yet effective way to hang wood slice art - they are also really cute! These small metal screws feature a loop at one end, allowing for easy attachment to hanging wire, chains, or hooks. To use them, drill a small pilot hole in the top of your wood slice and twist the eye screw in by hand. They provide a rustic and natural way to display artwork.

Pros:

• Easy to install with minimal tools

• Great for hanging with twine, chains, or wire

Cons:

• Not suitable for very heavy pieces unless using multiple screws or larger ones

• Can be visible from the front, depending on placement
  
  

5. Keyhole Hangers

Keyhole hangers are embedded into the back of the wood piece, allowing it to sit flush against the wall. This method provides a sleek look and secure hold. It’s also an environmentally friendly option because it doesn’t require any metals or plastics to be used (except for what is going into the wall).

Learn how to make your own keyhole hangers here: How to Make a Keyhole Hanger by Hand

Pros:

• Professional and clean finish

• Very secure

• Works well for heavy or high-end pieces

• Earth friendly

Cons:

• Requires a router or keyhole bit for installation

• No room for adjustment once installed

6. French Cleat System

For extra-large or unusually shaped wood pieces, a French cleat system is one of the best choices. This method involves attaching one wooden or metal strip to the back of the artwork and another to the wall, allowing the piece to interlock securely.

You can choose a metal system, or check out this blog post by Little House On The Corner to learn to make your own wooden one.

Pros:

• Extremely strong

• Ideal for large or heavy pieces

• Even weight distribution

Cons:

• Requires more materials and installation time

• Not ideal for small pieces

• More expensive

Choosing the Right Hanging Method

The best hanging method depends on the size, weight, and shape of your wood piece. If you’re displaying a small decorative panel, sawtooth hangers may be enough. For heavy or irregular pieces, D-rings, keyhole hangers, or French cleats provide greater stability.

No matter which option you choose, always ensure your hardware is properly secured to the wood slice to prevent damage to your artwork or wall. ALSO, make sure the hardware you use for the wall is also properly secured (I ALWAYS opt for and prefer to pay more for metal anchors, or at least the heavy duty anchors or the metal ‘butterfly’ screws).

Non-Hanging Options to Display your art!

A major advantage of all the options below is that they require minimal or no installation, making them easy to set up and adjust as needed. They are also highly versatile, accommodating various sizes and shapes of wood slices. However, a downside is that they take up shelf or table space rather than serving as wall-mounted displays, which may not be ideal for those with limited surface area. Additionally, some options may not provide enough stability for larger, heavier pieces.

1. Display stands are an excellent alternative. They provide a flexible, non-permanent way to showcase artwork on shelves, desks, or tables. Stands come in various materials such as metal, acrylic, or wood, and can be customized to match the aesthetic of your piece. You can even make your own wooden stands!

2. Hanging with Twine or Wire – Drill a small hole close to the top of your wood slice and use twine, ribbon, or wire (often used as ornaments in a tree).

3. Shadow Box Frame – Place a wood slice inside a deep frame for a refined look.

4. Floating Shelf – Lean or prop slices on a floating shelf with other decor.

5. Embedded in Resin – Encapsulate in clear resin for a modern and polished look. This one takes a lot of work.

6. Tabletop Display with a Peg – Attach or drill in a dowel or peg to the back so it stands slightly tilted. For round pieces, you may need two.

7. Incorporated into Furniture – Use as a tabletop, coaster, or embedded decor in larger pieces.

Have any favorite methods for hanging wood art that I didn’t mention?

Let me know in the comments!

The Secret to Organizing Without Overwhelm

Growing up, Sundays were designated cleaning days. My three brothers and I would rotate tasks. Each task would include a section of the house; such as cleaning a bathroom, vacuuming the entire house or helping in the kitchen which included taking out all the garbage everywhere.

My dad had a ruthless rule. Sunday cleaning waited for no one and if things were left on floors in our bedrooms before it was time to vacuum, everything would get dumped on our beds.

One weekend, my room was a disaster, and he piled it all—books, toys, clothes—onto my bed, forcing me to deal with it before I could sleep in my bed.

I didn’t love the process, but I eventually learned something: tackling a mess is easier when everything is in one spot first.

It was easier to sort through everything when you can see it all at once.

This was revolutionary (Thanks, Dad!)

I consider myself very lucky because I genuinely love organizing. I love sorting and compiling everything around me.

I love doing it even more for others. Over the years, I’ve helped organize other people’s homes, both professionally and just for fun. Yes, for fun. It’s a LOT easier to organize for other’s as I am not sentimentally attached to anything… I don’t spend time thinking about what I want, its more of a logical choice.

When I took all peoples things and consolidated it all one place, like my dad did to me, people could see what they had and, with my guidance and support, were able to make choices of what to keep or not. It made me realize that consolidation didn’t just work for me, it helped others too.

Professionally, I needed to know how to charge them. I needed a plan of what we are tackling and how long it would take. When doing it for friends, I couldn’t tackle too much at a time otherwise they would be left with a disaster when it was time for me to go home, so a plan needed to be made.

This made me realize another thing. Choosing a focus or theme just made sense for timing and to not feel overwhelmed.

And so the steps were created:

STEP ONE: Choose a Theme

When there is a theme, or a space that I need to focus on, it makes it easier and faster to complete. 

I’ve realized that often when I try to organize a space or deep clean without a focus, I get sidetracked, overwhelmed, and stuck.  I end up jumping from room to room which turns into the entire house and very often leaves me in more of a mess than before… I start putting away one thing, notice something else that needs attention, and before I know it, I’m overwhelmed and nothing gets finished. But when I focus on a single theme, it’s so much easier.

You can choose as narrow of a theme (marker brands) or as wide of a theme (art supplies) as you want. Generally the more stuff in that theme, the more narrow you can usually get.

If you know you get overwhelmed easily, start with a small theme.

There is no hard rule here as themes can sometimes overlap (for example the dreaded junk drawer - it tends to have every theme you can think of in it!). Sometimes a theme is not related by similar items, but by location!

SMALL HACKs FOR CHOOSING A THEME:

If you are stuck on a theme, choose a space. Choose an area in your house that needs your attention: Where are you getting frustrated loosing items? Where do you avoid going? What do you avoid putting away? For example: 

• Is your front closet overflowing? Take everything out of it and you will see a theme emerge.

• Do you keep loosing your sponge or rubber gloves under the sink because it gets lost in all the stuff? Take out everything from under the sink, this is your theme.
  
  
  

Everyday themes You Can Organize:

If everything feels like a mess and you’re not sure where to start, another strategy is to choose an everyday category:

1. Hobby or creative supplies

🎨 Art materials (I am not a hoarder but I have A LOT of art materials. When I am organizing my art materials, I break it down even further, for example pens and markers, paper, sewing, beads and jewelry, oil pastels and chalk pastels etc.)
🔥 Pyrography tools
🪵 Wood for burning (or all burnable surfaces)
📚 Books & sketchbooks

2. Home and living essentials

🛏️ Bedding & towels
🍽️ Kitchen gadgets & utensils
🕯️ Candles & home decor
🔋 Random junk drawer items (this one is a tough one… It always takes the longest because everything is, well, random)

3. Clothing and accessories

👕 T-shirts & sweaters
👖 Jeans & pants
👟 Shoes
👜 Bags & accessories

4. Paper or office supplies

📂 Important documents
🖊️ Pens & markers
📒 Notebooks & planners
💌 Old greeting cards & letters

5. Sentimental and miscellaneus

This one takes long too so give yourself extra time for anything sentimental! this one is mentally taxing too so breaking it up into different days helps.

📸 Photos & keepsakes
🧩 Board games & puzzles
🛍️ Seasonal decor
🛠️ Tools & hardware

Again, if you get easily overwhelmed, choose a small area to sort, one that brings you joy (I can organize my art supplies for days…) or tackle one that has been a constant irritation.

STEP TWO: Consolidate

This is that fun moment of throwing everything into one heaping pile. Yes, it’s also terrifying as there is no turning back after you do this.

I can’t prove my dad throwing everything onto my bed was the moment that shaped my approach to organizing, but as an adult, I’ve realized that the best way to get organized is to consolidate everything into one place before sorting.

During the consolidation process, (if you don’t want to just dump it all at once) I try to sort slightly as I remove everything from it’s current spot:

• Designate a spot on the floor or a corner of the room for the beginnings of categories: i.e.. if i am sorting my art closet: I will try to put all my scissors in one pile, all my paper in another pile, all my pyro stuff in another and so on. This is a rough sort (more or less) until the closet is empty. Stuff that takes more than a couple seconds to decide where it goes, goes right in the the center as a miscellaneous pile.

• Throw out obvious garbage right away.

• If there are items that aren’t garbage but you know immediately that you do not want them, put them in a “donate” pile. Try to locate this pile the furthest away from where you are organizing so it’s “out of sight, out of mind” as much as it can be.

• If there are items that belong in another room or section of the house, put them in a pile by the door. Don’t go organizing these things, but get them out of your line of sight by placing them in a pile FURTHER away and by the exit.

• I usually make a “to fix” pile at this point too.

Don’t to think too hard about this part. It’s more of a rough categorization (I’ll give you some examples later on). The goal is to just clear the space. So, if starting to categorize is slowing you down, then just do the dump.

STEP THREE: Categorize

I absolutely love organizing things into categories and groups. There’s something so satisfying about gathering similar things together, seeing exactly what I have, all in one space. 

Make sure everything is in a category that makes sense. Put items together that match by type and or function.

For example, if you’re organizing the front closet, all the shoes (type) would go in one pile, all the jackets (type) in another pile, all the umbrellas in another, dog leashes in another etc… you may be surprised how many duplicates you have. 

You can then sort by function. All winter gear would be categorized (mittens, hats, boots) and the winter section would be a functional category because these items work in the winter and can be put away in a deeper location until they are needed).

The key here is to zoom in on each category of item so you can deal with the item.

STEP FOUR: Finish

In each category, you will have three options (if you haven’t already started doing this during the dump).

1. Keep

2. Donate

3. Trash

Donating and trashing items are self-explanatory.

Now. The keep items.

Essentially we want to designate a spot for each category of items. This means to put them away and give them a permanent home. This is the moment where you can start putting back the items where they came from.

Some tips to remember:

• I like to fix items that are easy to fix right away. If it takes longer than a few minutes, I designate a place in my house for things I need to fix/repair that will take longer and get to them when I have time.

• Put loose things that belong together in one container (i.e. all charged batteries in a small plastic bin, all batteries that need charging in another small plastic bin - label these for less confusion).

• Labelling may sound a little much but a label goes a long way (even if its just temporary). I use masking tape and a sharpie and keep the label on for a little while until everyone in the house learns the new spot. Often, I will make a nicer looking label with a label maker but sometimes I just leave the tape on forever or eventually take it off once the habit to put the item it’s spot is created.

• Make it accessible according to their function. For example, Winter holiday stuff can go in a box and be put away deeper than other boxes, or at the bottom because you take them out once a year. Art supplies, however, should be more accessible and easy to take out and put back in. 

• You don’t need to spend money to have an organized space. Sure, it’s nice to have the perfect pantry with all matching clear boxes organized in rainbow colours... But the idea is to have accessible and functional storage that makes sense to what you are storing. I use boxes that I have on hand, like shoe boxes and plastic bins, even food containers!
  
  

HOW I ORGANIZE: An Example

I use this method every time I clean. Instead of tackling an entire room, I

1. Choose and focus on a theme. In this case: puzzles.

2. Gather all the puzzles I own (consolidate) and put them in one place.

3. Then I sort them (categorize). In this case, the categories are:

• My puzzles (I have a couple puzzles that go high up in a place no children can reach because they are very special to me)

• Kids’ puzzles

• The rest of them (I put the kids on one side and more difficult ones on the other)

During this process. I make sure to:

✔ Fix up any broken boxes or peeling pieces—tidy the boxes, tape up any worn edges, and make sure all the pieces are there (this step is obviously easy for kids’ puzzles. for larger puzzles, I just wait to complete them). For boxes I cant fix, I will put all the loose parts in a container.

✔ Donate the ones I no longer love (after they have been repaired)

✔ Trash any that have no hope

And then I store them neatly so they’re easy to access and give them a designated spot on my shelf.

A Bigger Example:

I recently used this method to organize two really big categories in my house. 

First was Christmas stuff (step one: theme)

I collected and gathered everything in one room (step two: consolidation). Once the holiday season was done, I took all the decorations and supplies, along with a bunch of hand-me-downs from my parents (which live part time in Mexico so they spend winter down there and they had a lot of Christmas stuff to give away).

There were boxes that have seen better days, ribbons from presents everywhere, lights, and general decorations….

Once it was all there, I started sorting (step three: categorize).  I took anything that was broken and either fixed it, took it apart to use in other ways or tossed it. This allowed me to see more clearly what I have.

Then I sorted everything into categories.

I put all the ornaments that could break in small boxes (which I taped up and fixed), I tied up all the lights with this awesome reusable Velcro straps made for cables, and put anything breakable in tissue paper or brown packing paper.

There was one section of the Christmas stuff that was kinda big: gift wrapping stuff. I found I had a lot of different ways to wrap gifts, so I further sorted this category:

• Gift bags

• Wrapping paper

• Tissue paper

• Gift boxes

• Gift tags

Then I found the gift wrapping items a home (first part of step four: finish)

As you can see below, I used random boxes that made sense and fit all the items. I could have put everything in a large box, but instead kept them like this in the shed because I like to be able to pull individual ones out when I need them. I don’t do all my wrapping at one time, so this will be more accessible and convenient to see and find the right size during the holidays.

Large Gift Bags, Tags, Boxes and Soft Bags

Wrapping Paper (new and used that I will reuse)

Small Gift Bags

Tissue Paper

The tissue paper is actually a category that overlaps. I keep it accessible all year-round with the gift bags and wrapping paper that is not holiday themed.

I labelled each box and put everything away in the shed (step four: finish).

The other theme I tackled was all my pyrography supplies and books—especially since I got a lot of goodies from Rachel recently. I gathered everything in one spot, sorted and categorized into the following categories: 

• Wood and surfaces to burn on

• Burners

• Tips and pens

• Other accessories (erasers, cleaning tools)

• Tracing things (graphite paper and all designs)

• Books 

I put everything in a large box and kept the items I used most out for now. Since it’s getting warmer here, I will be bringing everything out to my garage art space and will write a detailed blog about how I organize my wood burning supplies in the next few weeks! I will show you all my hacks for storing wood and cables and tools etc…

Even just doing this step made such a difference and now finding things is easy!

Some themes are more fun than others, but in the end, when things are easy to find and look neat, it’s totally worth the effort!

Last bit of advice and final thoughts:

Organization isn’t set in stone—it requires some upkeep, especially for items used often. The easier it is to put things away (physically), the longer your efforts will last.

It’s much easier to keep track of your belongings when you can see them, which is why clear containers are ideal for frequently used items. Being able to quickly spot what you need helps prevent overbuying, misplaced items, and clutter from piling up. But when clear containers aren’t an option, labels are the next best thing. A simple, well-placed label removes the guesswork, making it just as easy to find and put things away.

Since belongings fluctuate (things get donated, new items come in, and some break), having a little breathing room in containers allows for flexibility and prevents constant reorganization.

Staying organized doesn’t have to mean massive overhauls (although sometimes things get so out of hand, they need to be big steps). Essentially small, consistent steps make a big difference. Taking a few minutes to return things to their place, decluttering one drawer at a time, or doing a quick reset at the end of the day prevents mess from piling up. These small habits add up, making organization feel effortless rather than overwhelming. A little effort now saves a lot of time and frustration later.

Do you have an organizing trick that works for you? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear!

Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When adding a new medium, besides pyrography, to your wood slice, do you find your colours or paints sinking into the wood and loosing their richness?

Here is a little hack for you!

Adding a layer of isolation coat or primer can help prepare the surface so that your mediums do not get lost. It can also act as a barrier to your wood when applying finishes that tend discolour your wood slice, like resin or varnish. Read on to learn more.

What is primer?

A primer is a preparatory coating applied to a surface before painting. Its primary purpose is to create a suitable surface for paint to adhere to, ensuring better durability and finish of the final artwork or project. Primers can be used on various surfaces like wood, canvas, metal, or walls, depending on the type of painting or medium. Gesso is a common primer used for canvas and other surfaces. I have found a primer, the Folkart primer, which works the same way as isolation coat and is less expensive.

Another alternative is to use a wood sealer designed for wood specifically. However, wood sealers are usually intended for large areas (like a deck or furniture) so you need to buy a large amount at one time. The products I show here are more specialized for artist so they are available in smaller quantities at a smaller price.

What is isolation coat?

An isolation coat is a transparent layer applied to a painting (after painting), typically in acrylics, before the final varnish. It serves as a protective barrier between the painting surface and the varnish. This isolation coat prevents the varnish from sticking directly to the paint, allowing for easier removal of the varnish if necessary (e.g., for cleaning or conservation), without damaging the artwork underneath.

Golden's isolation coat product is specifically designed for use with acrylic paintings. It is a ready-to-use fluid medium that can be applied directly to a fully cured acrylic painting to protect the paint layers before varnishing. It makes the varnish layer easy to remove which means you can take off and reapply the varnish without messing up the paint underneath. Artists love this stuff because it helps their acrylic pieces last longer and stay looking great.

Aly of @alyooposartistry, introduced us to this magical liquid at The Burn Club Retreat back in 2018. She uses it as a layer on top of her finished wood burned piece that she finishes with resin, before the resin is applied. Resin, as with majority of finishes, darkens woods (generally, all woods change color and/or darken when a finish is applied).

before resin

after resin

This mushroom above was burned and watercolored on cherry wood. The resin made the grains pop and the redness super rich. ***There was no isolation coat or primer added here.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

Isolation coat doesn’t darken the wood as much, but you can see a slight difference.

Here you can see a triangular cherry wood slice. The primer darkens the surface slightly, but looking at the bottom, you can see that without any primer or isolation coat, the wood got considerably darker!

Applying isolation coat or primer before adding resin or Varnish is helpful to maintain the colour to what you see when it is unfinished

The darkening of wood can be great, but it can also make burn marks much less visible, especially if you are not going very deep, like with shading.

Some woods do not darken as much as others, so if you are unsure, do a little test on the back! Usually, darker woods get much darker then their original color and lighter woods do not darken as much.

How Else can isolation coat or primer be used in the world of wood?

Often, these products can be used to prepare the surface for another medium. I use them to create a barrier on the wood so that the medium I am using does not sink into the wood and get lost. The best example would be watercolour, which requires, well, water. The water often gets absorbed into the wood and the colours can loose their richness.

To learn about how and why different mediums get lost in wood, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist where I explain how the grain of wood and the way its cut can have an affect on mediums applied and pyrography itself!

Other mediums you can use on top of isolation coat are gold foil (which require a liquid glue for the gold to adhere, or paints that are more liquid/watery.

For wood-based art, a base coat serves crucial functions before painting:

• It improves adhesion, ensuring paint doesn't peel or flake

• It seals wood pores for uniform paint application, saving paint and reducing coats

• It enhances colour vibrancy by blocking the wood's natural hue from altering paint appearance

• It smooths out wood imperfections, providing a better surface for detailed work

• It blocks natural wood resins that can cause discoloration.

• The type of primer can even affect the final sheen of the paint, enhancing glossiness or creating a matte finish.

However, keep in mind:

• It can also make watercolor (or any liquid mediums) to behave more like acrylics, sitting on top of the surface rather than absorbing into it… Primer is more “clingy” than isolation coat (isolation coat is a bit more slippery) and this can cause watercolours to not bleed or blend as they would on paper or raw wood. It will still work, just the outcome will be slightly different.

How do they effect the wood?

In this example below, you can see that both isolation coat (on the left) and primer (on the right) darken the wood slightly. I tried both isolation coat and primer on an end grain (rounded slice) and face grain (rectangle slice) as the grain direction makes a difference! To learn more about the differences, check out: Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist.

The end grain (round) slice is maple and the face grain (rectangular) slice is basswood.

The instructions on either medium says “add multiple layers as needed”.

One layer gives a slight sheen, but the more coats added, it seem that the more shinier the surface gets (on both end and face grain).

The end grain (round) slices definitely require a couple coats as either product soaks in.

Woods that are lighter like this (basswood, pine etc…) are generally less effected by finishes. This slice below, is cherry wood and it is easily darkened by any finish.

So Should I use isolation coat or primer?

After some testing and experimenting, the verdict is so close that the two are essentially the same. My thoughts are, if you plan on sealing before adding colour AND after, then use isolation coat. Isolation coat is meant for going on top so therefore, instead of buying primer and isolation coat, you can just use isolation coat first, add your paint, and then add an isolation coat after.

If you want a durable finish, I still recommend finishing off your piece with a varnish in order to fully seal or protect your artwork after the medium (such as watercolor or acrylic) has been applied.

To learn more about finishes, check out this blog post: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art.

A sealer or varnish are designed specifically to:

1. Protect: They create a protective layer over your artwork, safeguarding it from dust, moisture, and UV light.

2. Enhance Appearance: Varnishes can provide different finishes, such as matte, satin, or gloss, depending on the look you want.

3. Preserve: Sealers and varnishes help prevent fading, cracking, or other damage over time.

Thank you for reading!

We hope this information is useful and helps you in your journey discovering the world of pyrography.

Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide

Pyrography, or wood burning, is a beautiful and rewarding art form, but like any craft, it comes with its challenges. Whether you're a seasoned artist or just starting, it's common to run into problems that affect the quality of your burns.

In this guide, we’ve made it super easy to find solutions to common pyrography problems. Just scroll down and click on the issue you're dealing with to get quick tips and fixes. Whether it’s adjusting your heat settings, picking the right wood, or fine-tuning your technique, we’ve got you covered.

Find your issue below and get back to burning with confidence!

Burn Quality Issues

• Uneven Burn Marks

  Cause: Varying pressure or inconsistent heat distribution.
  

  Solution:

  • Ensure the tip is fully heated before burning. Allow the tool to reach its working temperature for consistent burns. Some tools heat up super quick, others take longer.

  • Practice even hand pressure. Try a few test strokes on scrap wood before working on your project.

  • Use a smoother wood surface to avoid uneven grain affecting the burn quality. Check out: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

• Splotchy or Patchy Burns

  Cause: Dirty tip, uneven wood grain, or resin in the wood.
  

  Solution:

  • Regularly clean the tool tip with a fine wire brush or cloth to remove buildup. Check out Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool to learn more about cleaning and caring for your tools.

  • Choose fine-grained, smooth wood types like basswood or birch for more uniform burns. To see a list of woods we like to use, go to: Best Wood for Pyrography

  • Avoid resin-heavy woods like pine, or sand and seal the wood before burning. Check out this blog post to learn more: Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

• Burn Marks Are Too Light

  Cause: Low heat setting or quick hand movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Increase the heat setting gradually, especially for harder woods.

  • Slow down your hand movements to give the tool enough time to burn the wood. Patience (and consistency) is the key with pyrography.

  • Clean the tip if it's dirty or has residue build-up. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Burn Marks Are Too Dark or Deep

  Cause: Excessive heat or too much pressure.

  
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting or use a lighter touch with the tool. You should never be pressing too hard onto the wood anyways! But if you like to burn hot, then reducing the pressure and moving faster will help.

  • Not always the best solution, but you can try to use fine-grit sandpaper to reduce overly dark areas. This will most likely not take away the burn marks, but can lighten them a little. This is not the best solution though as sanding can damage the surrounding design and create a different look to your burn marks compared to what you do not sand...

• Lines Are Too Thick

  Cause: Wrong tip choice or excessive pressure.
  

  Solution:

  • Use finer tips for detailed work and intricate lines.

  • Reduce pressure when burning, as pressing too hard widens the burn line.

  • Consider using adjustable heat settings to create finer burns with lower heat. Lower and slower is the motto for thin and crisp lines.

Line Control and Precision

• Burn Lines Are Shaky

  Cause: Lack of hand control or movement.
  

  Solution:

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • Practice straight lines and curves on scrap wood to improve steadiness.

    • Usually pushing the nib away from you is easier, but try pulling it towards you as well.

    • Rotate the wood to find the most comfortable and best angle.

    • Try different angles of the pen too. Experiment which one feels most comfortable.

    • You can try using different nibs. Ones with a sharp edge can often be easier to make lines with. A curved sharp edge is also very different than a straight sharp edge...

  • Consider using a stencil or guide to help keep lines smooth and consistent. A metal ruler for example could work great to keep a long straight line looking straight.

• Unwanted "Glow" Around Burn Lines

  Cause: Excessive heat or movement that is too slow
  

  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce the amount of heat radiating from the tip.

  • Use a faster, controlled hand movement to limit the time heat is concentrated in one area.

  • Sand the wood after burning to remove the glow. To learn more about that, visit: Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

  • Choose a wood that is less prone to scorching, like basswood or maple, which tend to produce less "glow" than softer woods like pine.

• Wrist pain or discomfort

  Cause: Unstable positioning and/or awkward wood size.

  Solution: Try one of the following but also make sure to take a lot of movement breaks (I like to set a timer for that).

  • Use a stable surface and proper support for your hand. I see many artists prop up their wrist with a bean bag or elevate their hand using another wood slice.

  • For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

  • For large pieces of wood, try a turntable, an art easel, or propping against a wall.

Wood Surface and Tool Interaction

• Nib Sticking to Wood

  Cause: High heat or resinous wood.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to prevent sticking and charring.

  • Keep the tip moving steadily to avoid lingering in one spot.

  • Clean the tip regularly to remove sticky residue. To learn more, check out: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

• Smoke During Burning

  Cause: High heat or burning on resin-heavy woods.
  Solution:

  • Lower the heat setting to reduce excessive smoke.

  • Work in a well-ventilated area or use a small fan to disperse smoke.

  • Avoid working on damp woods or highly resinous woods such as pine or cedar.

• Wood slice is tiny

  For tiny pieces of wood: use masking tape, roll it into a circle (sticky side out), stick it to the back of your small wood slice and onto a larger piece of wood for stability.

• Wood slice is very big

  When the wood slice is too big, it can be hard to get a good angle and be comfortable with the process. Two options here can include using a turntable or an art easel.

  If you still find the piece is too large for either option, try proping it on the wall and burning.

  Remember to take a lot of breaks to avoid any pains.

Tool and Equipment Troubles

• Tip Not Heating Properly

  Cause: Faulty tool, loose connection, or dirt build-up.
  

  Solution:

  • Check the power cord and make sure all connections are secure.

  • Clean the tip. Visit the following post for different ways on how to do that: Tool Care for your Wood Burning Tool

  • If you are using an interchangeable nib, ensure that it is properly installed. To learn more on which nib you have, check out: Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

  • If the tool continues to malfunction, consider replacing the tip.

  • If you still don't have any luck contact the manufacturer for further information.

• Tool Tip Overheating

  Cause: Using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Use multiple tools or tips to switch out and give each time to cool.

• Entire Pen Overheating

  Cause: Low quality tool or using a high heat setting for too long.

  Solution:

  • Use lower heat settings for longer sessions to prevent overheating.

  • Take breaks during your work to allow the tool to cool down and maintain consistency.

  • Get a better tool. Check out out favourite tools here: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

  • Wear finger protection, a half glove, or whole hand protection

Design and Transferring Issues

• I don't know what/how to draw

  You don’t need to know how to draw if you want to try out pyrography. Below are some options for you to get started:

  • Grab some free templates here.

  • Join Burn Club for FREE to get even more free monthly goodies.

  • Visit The Templates Store for even more designs including royalty free ones!

  • Check out our Community Books full of templates!

• How do I get the designs onto wood?

  There are two main ways to get designs onto wood:

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Heat

  • How To Transfer Designs To Wood Using Heat

• My transfer lines are not coming off the wood

  If you are left with lines from transferring your design, check out this blog post for ways to help you remove them: How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Troubleshooting in pyrography is all part of the creative process. Don’t let a little smoke or uneven lines get in the way of your masterpiece! With the tips and fixes from this guide, you’re now equipped to tackle those pesky issues and get back to making beautiful, detailed woodburned art. Remember, every artist faces challenges—it's how you handle them that helps you grow.

If you come across any issues we didn’t address, feel free to drop a comment in the section below, and we’ll do our best to help out.

Keep practicing, stay patient, and most importantly, have fun with your craft.

Happy burning!

Branding Irons: Traditional vs. Electric

Branding irons are a tool used to burn designs into wood or other materials. When it comes to branding irons, there are two main types: traditional branding irons and electric branding irons.

A traditional branding iron is typically heated with fire (i.e. on a stove top) or with a torch.

Anf an electrical branding iron which uses electricity to heat the iron to a consistent temperature.

Each type has its own set of pros and cons though, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences. I own an electric branding iron and have used it time and time again to both add the Wood Burn Corner logo to art pieces, and to brand other products.

Traditional Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Cost-effective - Traditional branding irons are often less expensive than their electric counterparts.

2. Customizable - You can easily create custom branding irons with unique designs, initials, or logos to add a personal touch to your work.

3. Portable - They are usually small and easy to transport, making them ideal for artists and craftspeople who work in different locations.

4. No power required - They don't require electricity, making them ideal for use in remote locations or areas with limited power access. You just need a heat source. Many people heat them with a blow torch or their stove top.

Cons:

1. Limited precision - Traditional branding irons require more skill and practice to achieve precise, detailed designs. The temperature may not be the same consistently for every burn.

2. Time-consuming - They require heating over an open flame, which can be time-consuming and inconvenient.

3. Risk of burns - Traditional branding irons can be dangerous, as they require heating over an open flame and can cause burns if not handled properly.

Electric Branding Irons:

Pros:

1. Precise designs - They allow for precise and detailed designs, making them ideal for professionals who need high-quality results.

2. Consistent heat - They heat up quickly and maintain a consistent temperature. This makes it much faster and easier when needing to brand multiple products.

3. Time-saving - Electric branding irons require some heating time, but tend to be so quicker because they don’t require heating between each burn.

4. Safer - They don't require an open flame to heat up.

Cons:

1. Expensive - Electric branding irons are generally more expensive than traditional branding irons.

2. Limited customization - They may not allow for as much customization as traditional branding irons, as they often come with fixed designs or logos or sizes.

3. Power required - They require electricity to function, which can be limiting in remote locations or areas with limited power access.

4. Less portable - Electric branding irons are often larger and less portable than traditional branding irons.

In conclusion, both traditional and electric branding irons have their own set of pros and cons, and the choice between the two will depend on your individual needs and preferences.

Consider the level of precision you need, the amount of time you have, your budget, and your power access when making your choice between traditional and electric branding irons.

I have loved my electrical one, but can also see why having one I can heat up on my stovetop would be useful. Either way, it is certainly faster for branding branding than traditional pyrography. (See what I did there?)

How to Manifest Your Business Goals

Manifesting business goals involves applying the principles of the law of attraction to draw in the success, opportunities, and resources needed to achieve them. While some may dismiss it as fluff, it can genuinely lead to life-changing results. Even if you're skeptical about the 'magic' of manifesting, consider the logical aspect: regularly reminding yourself of your goals and maintaining a positive, motivated mindset helps keep you on track and fuels your drive to succeed.

Here are some steps you can take to manifest your business goals. They are not set in stone. Make them work for you. This is what has worked for us!

Set clear and specific goals

Define your business goals clearly and specifically, and write them down. Be specific about what you want to achieve, and by when. Check out our blog post on how to clarify your goals: Focus Five - The 5 Things That Describe Your Business

Visualize your success

Use visualization techniques to see yourself achieving your business goals. Imagine yourself already in possession of the resources, opportunities, and success that you desire. Basia loves creating Pinterest mood/vision boards to encapsulate her goals, and Rachel loves visualizing through a hand written goal list. Do what works for you!

Remind yourself daily what your goals are

• A fun idea is to create a vision board. Place the board somewhere you see every day, like your office or bedroom.

• Or, make a digital one! Leave it to the Pinterest Queen, Basia, to use Pinterest as her digital vision board to collect images that inspire and motivate her, and words that speak to her. She created her own affirmations, like this one here, (click here to see them), which then are easily enabled onto a phone, as a widget via Pinterest (they can even can rotate hourly on a daily basis) so every time you see your phone, you are reminded about what you want!

• Make a digital collage and use it as as a screen saver.

• Write them out and repeat them each morning to help reinforce them in your mind.

• Write your goals on small index cards or sticky notes and carry them with you or place them around your workspace for constant reminders.

• Journal daily

• Use a habit tracker or planner to note down daily actions that align with your goals. Checking off progress will keep your goals top of mind.

• Spend a few minutes each day visualizing yourself achieving your goals. Set an alarm if you are busy or forgetful, like me.

• Share your goals with a friend, partner, or mentor who can help remind you and keep you accountable.

Practice gratitude

Be grateful for what you already have, and focus on the positive aspects of your business. This will help you maintain a positive and optimistic mindset, which is essential for manifesting success. Not only is it essential for manifesting success, but it also points out your current successes, which is so important. Rachel calls these her “Ta-Da List.”

Take action

While manifestation involves visualization and positive thinking, it's also important to take action towards your goals. Be proactive in seeking out opportunities and taking steps towards achieving your goals. Even taking the smallest steps towards reaching your goals is better than taking none. Rachel says “if it seems too big, then make the next step smaller, and do that.” Just keep going.

Surround yourself with positivity

Surround yourself with people and things that inspire and motivate you. This can include reading books or listening to podcasts that focus on success, networking with other business owners who share your goals, and creating a positive work environment. Basia and Rachel have weekly chats, where this happens, and it makes all the difference. Choose people who are turly in your corner! There are plenty in this community who would love to be a positive accountability partner to you. Just ask.

Let go of limiting beliefs

Let go of any limiting beliefs that may be holding you back. This can include negative self-talk, fear of failure, or a belief that success is not possible. This can be hard (like really hard), but whenever it pops up, remember that, it is the audacity to try that is what makes most successful people stand out from the rest, not necessarily talent. Don’t let yourself stop you.

Remember that manifesting success takes time and effort, but by staying focused on your goals, maintaining a positive attitude, and taking action towards your goals, you can manifest the success you desire in your business.

Digitizing Your Wood Slice for Extra Revenue

In today’s digital age, pyrography artists have more opportunities than ever to expand their reach and monetize their art beyond traditional sales. By digitizing your wood art, you can transform physical creations into digital assets, opening the door to a variety of new revenue streams. Instead of just selling a design once, you now have to options to sell it numerous times in numerous ways.

Whether you're creating high-resolution scans or professional photographs of your work, digitization allows you to share, sell, and promote your art on a global scale.

So, how do you decide if you want to take photos or scan your art?

When deciding between scanning and photographing a woodburned wood slice, there are several factors to consider, as both methods offer distinct advantages and disadvantages:

1. Quality of Detail:

• Scanning: Scanners capture very high-resolution images with consistent lighting, making them ideal for showcasing intricate details like fine lines or subtle shading in pyrography.

• Photography: A high-quality camera with proper lighting can capture detailed textures, giving a more three-dimensional look to the woodburned surface. The texture of the wood, shadows, and natural imperfections will be more visible, which can enhance the piece's appearance but might require careful lighting to avoid glare or overexposure.

2. Colour Accuracy:

• Scanning: Scanners generally provide more accurate colour reproduction, especially with flat artwork. However, woodburned slices can be uneven, and the light from the scanner might not capture the natural wood grain or the depth of the burn as authentically as a camera could.

• Photography: Depending on your camera and lighting setup, you might have to tweak settings or adjust in post-production to achieve colour accuracy, especially if natural lighting changes or creates warm or cool tones. Personally, this one was my toughest issue. After experimenting with what I thought was consistent lighting, the photos were not all exactly the same and this drove me crazy! I set up a light in my living room and blacked out the sun, but it was such a hassle and took over my entire living space…

3. Lighting:

• Scanning: The lighting is always even and consistent, which is excellent for avoiding shadows and glare but can flatten the appearance of the wood's texture.

• Photography: Photography gives you full control over lighting, allowing you to experiment with different angles and intensities. This can highlight the texture of the woodburning but requires careful setup to avoid shadows or highlights from uneven lighting. Same with the colour accuracy though… If you're not sure what you’re doing, this is a hard one to get consistent.

4. Ease of Use:

• Scanning: A scanner is easy to use for smaller pieces. You simply place the wood slice on the bed, scan it, and get a high-resolution image. For larger pieces, this can be limiting as the wood slice might not fit properly. However, there are companies that offer large-format scanning services, which are ideal for digitizing oversized or three-dimensional pieces.

• Photography: Photography gives you more flexibility for larger or irregularly shaped pieces like wood slices. You can photograph the piece in natural light or a controlled studio environment. However, it takes more time and effort to set up the shot, manage lighting, and ensure focus. Also, consistency is key and this may be difficult if you do not have a studio set up…

5. File Size and Versatility:

• Scanning: Scanners can create very large, high-resolution files, which is useful if you want to print the image at a larger scale. However, the files might be unnecessarily large for online sharing.

• Photography: A photograph can be just as high-resolution, depending on your camera, but it allows for more flexibility in post-editing for various uses like social media or print.

6. Textural Appearance:

• Scanning: Scanning tends to flatten the texture of the wood, making it appear more like a 2D image. This is great for many uses such as stickers, prints etc…

• Photography: Photography, especially with angled lighting, can better capture the 3D texture of the woodburning and the natural grain of the wood slice. Depending on the look you are going for, this can be a hit or a miss!

Generally, if you're aiming for a flat, highly detailed reproduction (for example, to use in print), scanning might be the better option. However, for a more dynamic and natural feel that captures the texture and shape of the wood slice, a high-quality photograph would likely be more effective.

My art is digitized. Now what?

1. Prints: Digitize the wood burned design and create high-quality prints to sell as posters, art prints, or greeting cards.

2. Stickers: Turn the design into stickers, which can be sold individually, in sets, or as part of themed collections. Here is a great example that Chelsea Glade of @oopschelseaarted (formerly pickleshopcuriosity) made.

3. Digital Downloads: Offer a digital download that customers can purchase and print at home.

4. Merchandise: Create merchandise such as T-shirts, mugs, phone cases, and tote bags through print-on-demand (POD) services. There are tons of options available, always get a sample before selling to ensure great quality.

5. Calendars: Incorporate the design(s) into a calendar, either as part of a collection of wood burned art or as a unique feature for a particular month.

6. Gift Wrap and Tags: Create gift wrap paper and gift tags featuring the wood burned design.

7. Journals and Notebooks: Print the design on the covers of journals, notebooks, and planners.

8. Home Decor: Produce items like cushions, blankets, or tapestries with the wood burned design printed on them. There are may POD services that can do this!

9. Books and Bookmarks: Use the design for custom books, book covers, bookmarks and more, either for personal use or to sell to others. Heidi Clinite of @ember_maypop wrote a children’s book called Sassy Susie Sasquatch Sets Sail and used her wood burned art for the cover, as well as throughout the entire book!

10. Art Prints: Enhance the design with digital art techniques and offer as limited edition art prints.

11. Custom Stationery: Create stationery sets including letterheads, envelopes, and notepads with the design.

12. Wall Decals: Turn the design(s) into removable wall decals.

13. Puzzles: Create custom jigsaw puzzles featuring the wood burned design.

14. Fabric Patterns: Use the design to create fabric patterns, which can then be sold to crafters and designers.

15. Digital Wallpapers: Offer the design(s) as a digital wallpaper for computers and mobile devices.

With the growing technology, the options to make extra revenue with your art are continuously growing. By embracing digital tools, you can scale your creative business while staying true to the craftsmanship that makes wood art so unique.

Top 5 Wood Burning Books Ranked and Reviewed

Getting into pyrography can be a fun and rewarding experience, whether you're just starting out or looking to take your skills to the next level. There are some fantastic books out there that can help you along the way, offering tips, techniques, and plenty of project ideas.

In this review, we'll take a look at FIVE great reads that can guide you through your woodburning journey. From learning the basics to mastering realistic animal portraits, these books have got you covered.

Let's dive into what makes each of these resources invaluable for any pyrography enthusiast.

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Creative Woodburning: Projects, Patterns and Instruction to Get Crafty with Pyrography

“Creative Woodburning" by Bee Locke is a comprehensive guide suitable for both beginners and experienced pyrography artists. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices, just to start. Locke delves into various techniques, from basic shading and texturing to more advanced methods like stippling and crosshatching, burning feather textures and more. The book includes a wide range of projects, each with detailed step-by-step instructions and patterns, ensuring there's something for everyone. Additionally, the inclusion of original designs and motifs provides ample inspiration for readers to develop their unique style.

One of the book's strengths is the organization of all the clear and detailed instructions, which make it accessible for beginners and easy to find. The troubleshooting section is particularly helpful, offering solutions for common mistakes. Overall, "Creative Woodburning" is a valuable resource for anyone interested in pyrography, providing a balanced mix of instruction, inspiration, and practical tips.

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"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss

"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss is an excellent resource for both novice and experienced pyrography artists. The book opens with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, detailing essential tools, materials, and safety practices. Strauss covers a wide array of techniques, from simple line work and shading to intricate texturing and pattern creation. Each technique is explained with clear, step-by-step instructions and accompanied by high-quality photographs, making it easy for readers to understand and follow along.

What sets this book apart is the variety of projects it offers. Strauss includes a broad range of ideas, from decorative household items to personalized gifts, ensuring there's something for every skill level and interest. The book also features unique and original designs, providing plenty of inspiration for readers to develop their own creative projects. Additionally, Strauss's passion for pyrography shines through in her engaging writing style, making the book not only informative but also enjoyable to read.

Overall, "The Wood Burn Book" is a valuable and inspiring guide that offers a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

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"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson

"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is a specialized guide focused on creating lifelike animal portraits through the art of pyrography. This book is particularly valuable for artists who wish to enhance their skills in rendering detailed and realistic animal figures. Robinson begins with a thorough introduction to the basics of pyrography, including essential tools, materials, and safety tips, which makes the book accessible to beginners.

The core of the book lies in its detailed tutorials for creating realistic animal portraits. Robinson provides step-by-step instructions, accompanied by high-quality photographs and detailed line drawings, to guide readers through each stage of the process. She covers various techniques such as shading, texturing fur, and capturing the intricate details of animal features, all aimed at bringing a lifelike quality to the woodburned artwork.

One of the book's strengths is its focus on realism. Robinson shares her expertise in capturing the essence and character of different animals, offering tips on how to achieve precise details and depth. This makes the book an excellent resource for artists looking to challenge themselves and elevate their pyrography skills.

Overall, "Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is an exceptional guide for pyrography artists interested in creating lifelike animal portraits. Its detailed tutorials and expert tips make it a valuable resource for advancing one's skills in realistic woodburning.

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"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish

"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish is an extensive and detailed guide for pyrography artists, whether they are beginners or more advanced practitioners. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of wood burning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices, which is particularly beneficial for those new to the craft.

One of the book's major strengths lies in its exploration of various techniques. Irish meticulously explains everything from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and layering methods. Each technique is presented with step-by-step instructions and detailed photographs, ensuring readers can easily follow along and practice effectively.

The book also stands out for its wide range of projects. It includes designs suitable for different skill levels, from simple patterns to more intricate artworks. Each project comes with clear instructions, patterns, and helpful tips, making it easy for readers to recreate the designs or use them as inspiration for their own creations.

Another highlight is the extensive collection of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature-inspired scenes to abstract patterns. This wealth of design options is excellent for sparking creativity and helping artists develop their own unique styles. The link is to an extended version which has even more designs, techniques and projects!

Overall, "The Great Book of Wood Burning" is a valuable and inspiring resource, offering a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration for anyone interested in pyrography.

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"WoodBurning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly

"Woodburning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly is a practical and comprehensive guide designed for pyrography enthusiasts of all skill levels. The book begins with an in-depth introduction to the basics of pyrography, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices. This foundational knowledge is particularly beneficial for beginners, ensuring they have a solid understanding before progressing to more complex techniques.

O’Reilly excels in providing detailed, step-by-step instructions for a wide range of wood burning techniques, from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and detailing methods. The book includes a variety of projects tailored to different skill levels, each accompanied by high-quality photographs and clear instructions.

Additionally, the wealth of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature scenes to abstract patterns, serves as a rich source of inspiration for artists looking to develop their unique styles. Overall, "Wood Burning Workshop" is a valuable resource that balances practical instruction with creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

Leveraging Technology in Your Pyrography Business: Canva

In the digital age, leveraging technology can significantly enhance your business, and specifically your pyrography business. Canva, an online design tool, offers a wide range of features that can help you create stunning designs, marketing materials, and more. This guide will explore how you can use Canva to boost your pyrography business.

Why I Love Using Canva

1. User-Friendly Interface

Canva’s intuitive interface makes it easy for anyone, regardless of design experience, to create professional-looking designs. There are many good online tutorials too, if you get stuck.

2. Versatile Design Tools

With a vast library of templates, fonts, images, and graphics, Canva provides all the tools you need to create a variety of designs, from logos to social media posts. The paid version has more stock images and features available, but the free version still lets you complete tasks and create beautiful content.

3. Accessibility

Canva is a web-based platform accessible from any device with an internet connection, allowing you to work on your designs anytime, anywhere. I have tried to use my phone AND my iPad to create on the go, however, it was not as easy to use as on a computer or laptop. In a pinch I was still able to get done what I needed, but I prefer using the computer.

4. Collaboration Features

Canva enables real-time collaboration, making it easier to work with team members or clients on design projects. This was a game changer for me!! Instead of downloading your design from the program, uploading to email or a folder in google drive, then emailing it to whomever I wanted to share it with, just to have them download it, all I do is share a link directly to the source. I can make the design editable too so if I am working on a design with someone, we can both change it together in real time. We can leave comments or each other too! This is one of my favorite features.

Getting Started with Canva

Create an account HERE and choose your level. As mentioned before, the free version really does everything you need it to do. It is a great way to get started with the program without paying while you are learning and exploring.

Designing for Pyrography

1. Creating Patterns and Templates

• Custom Dimensions: Start a new design with custom dimensions that match the size of your wood pieces!

• Templates: Use Canva’s pre-made templates as a starting point and customize them to suit your needs.

• Shapes and Lines: Utilize shapes and lines to create intricate patterns and designs.

• Import your own designs and photos: Easily add layers to your own content to create new and unique content.

2. Experimenting with Fonts and Text

• Canva offers a wide range of fonts. Experiment with different styles to find the perfect one for your designs.

• Use text effects like shadows and outlines to add depth to your designs.

3. Adding Visual Elements

• Graphics and Illustrations: Access Canva’s extensive library of graphics and illustrations to enhance your designs.

• Photos: Upload your own photos or choose from Canva’s stock images to incorporate into your designs.

Marketing Your Pyrography Business

1. Social Media Content

• Templates: Use Canva’s social media templates to create eye-catching posts for platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

• Consistency: Maintain a consistent brand aesthetic across all your social media channels using Canva’s brand kit feature (available with Canva Pro). This is really cool because once you save your brand kit, it is easy to create content that is on brand with just one click!

2. Promotional Materials

This is what we use Canva for the most and is probably the most common use.

The image here of the book is not a real book on wood. It is a digital image, shadow added and put on a background of wood making the vibe completely different than a standalone book…

The bonus is that you can create content to be printable and digital! Below are a just a few ideas, but the world is really your oyster here. You can do so much more. We’ve even created published books using Canva!

• Flyers and Brochures: Design professional flyers and brochures to promote your pyrography workshops and products.

• Business Cards: Create customized business cards to hand out at events and craft fairs.

• Thank you cards: create content that is personalized for your clients!

3. Online Presence

• Website Graphics: Design banners, buttons, and other graphics for your website.

• Email Marketing: Create visually appealing email newsletters to keep your customers informed about new products and promotions.

Enhancing Your Customer Experience

1. Custom Orders

• Mockups: Use Canva to create digital mockups of custom orders for clients. This helps them visualize the final product. I like to insert the image onto the actual wood slice I will be burning on so they can almost see the finished product before I burn it.

• Approval Process: Share the mockups and designs with clients for approval before starting the actual burning process. This step really eliminates any miscommunication or mistakes.

2. Instructional Guides

• Create step-by-step guides and tutorials for your clients, helping them learn how to care for their wooden items in a neat and on brand way. Remember, these can be printed or sent via a digital document!

Canva is a powerful tool that can greatly enhance your pyrography business. Whether you’re designing patterns, marketing materials, or customer guides, Canva’s versatile features and user-friendly interface make it easy to create professional-quality designs.

Handling Burnout and Staying Motivated as an Artist

Burnout is a common issue for many creative professionals, including pyrographers. I know because I’ve been there… It can stem from the pressures of constant creation (especially when you’re trying to keep up with social media algorithms), running a business, or balancing multiple responsibilities. However, with the right strategies, you can manage burnout and reignite your passion for your art, finish those wood slice projects and create art that is true to you.

Understanding Burnout

Burnout is a state of physical, emotional, and mental exhaustion caused by prolonged stress. In artists, it can manifest as a loss of creativity, lack of motivation, and even physical fatigue (among many other symptoms).

Recognizing the signs early can help you take proactive steps to address it.

Signs of Burnout

• Persistent tiredness or fatigue

• Decreased motivation or interest in work

• Feeling overwhelmed or anxious

• Difficulty concentrating or making decisions

• Physical symptoms such as headaches or insomnia

Strategies for Handling Burnout

1. Take Regular Breaks

Incorporate short breaks throughout your day to rest and recharge. Step away from your work, stretch, or take a walk outside. Regular breaks can prevent mental fatigue and maintain your focus.

Short breaks during work sessions are great and long breaks between projects can prevent burnout on another level. I feel incredibly recharged after a 3 day camping trip where I am able to unplug from technology and life for an extended amount of time!

2. Set Realistic Goals

Avoid overloading yourself with too many projects at once. If you are like me, and have multiple projects on the go, try to focus on the top 2 to 3 so that you can actually complete some and feel good and motivated to continue completing more.

Also, make sure if you are feeling overwhelmed, try breaking down your tasks into manageable steps and setting achievable deadlines. This will help you stay organized and reduce stress.

Using tools to help you achieve your goals can help. Calendars can help you plan goals. I love using a calendar because I can easily see my other commitments and can plan accordingly.

Another tool I live by are these trackers. They have monthly goals or habits for short term planning as well as yearly goals for longer term projects. Game changers!

3. Practice Self-Care

This is an obvious one, but usually overlooked. Make time for activities that nourish your body and mind. This can include exercise, meditation, hobbies, or spending time with loved ones. Self-care is essential for maintaining overall well-being and avoiding burnout.

I suffered from burnout and one thing that helped me in the hardest moments was writing morning pages, as suggested by "The Artist's Way". This book is great to help clear your mind, process thoughts, and uncover new ideas. The journaling is just part of the journey in this book. The thing I like most about it is that it makes self-care part of the homework and forces you to make time for yourself in special ways.

4. Stay Connected with Your Creative Community

Engage with fellow artists and like-minded individuals. Join online forums, attend workshops, or participate in local art events. Sharing experiences and ideas can provide support and inspiration.

5. Create Art for Yourself

Sometimes, making art just for the joy of it, without the pressure of external expectations, can be the most motivating. Go create for creating’s sake.

I often try to do things with the intention of them being something. Something perfect, something for instagram, something for someone. But doing art without that intention, just for yourself, is very very freeing and is not only a good way to stay motivated but also to help burnout while still being creative.

I love to create art with kids. It creates a no pressure and fun way to unwind when you work side by side with them or make something together!

6. Set Boundaries

Learn to say no to projects or commitments that overwhelm you. (This can be hard and takes practice). Prioritize your workload and allocate time for rest. Setting boundaries ensures you have the energy to focus on what truly matters. If it doesn’t allign with your values, your business, your goals, or doesn’t excite you, just say no.

7. Reflect on Your Achievements

Take time to acknowledge and celebrate your accomplishments, no matter how small. I love a good Ta-Da list where you celebrate your accomplishments. Reflecting on your progress can boost your confidence and remind you of your passion for your craft. Instead of looking at others, take time to look at yourself and how far you've come! If you’re a visual person, keep a journal or portfolio of your work. Sometimes I even like to scroll to the beginning of my instagram profile to see where I started. Looking back on your progress can remind you of how far you've come and inspire you to keep going. Celebrate all of your wins.

8. Seek Professional Help if Needed

If burnout persists, consider seeking help from a mental health professional. Therapy or counseling can provide valuable tools for managing stress and improving your mental health.

Staying Motivated

1. Seek Inspiration

Explore different sources of inspiration, such as nature, books, music, or other artists' works. Inspiration can come from unexpected places. I love to visit museums, art shows or craft fairs just to get me excited about creating again.

2. Experiment and Play

This is one of my favorite exercises when I am feeling stuck, uninspired or unmotivated. Experimenting with different forms of art or techniques within pyrography, not only expands your skills, but can reignite your creativity and keep your work exciting.

Allow yourself to experiment with new techniques, materials, or subjects. Playing and exploring can reignite your creativity and make the process more enjoyable.

Sometimes, doing something completely different, like reading, cooking, or gardening, can refresh your mind and spark new ideas. Collaging is one of my favourite things to do as all it requires is to just flip through some magazines and feel out what inspires you. It really gets my creative juices flowing to pick through images and put them together until I get an unexpected design!

3. Set Personal Challenges

Create personal challenges or goals to keep yourself engaged. This could be learning a new pyrography technique, completing a series of artworks, or participating in an art competition. The smaller and more achievable, the better, especially if you’re already feeling some signs of burnout.

4. Create a Vision Board

Visualize your long-term goals and aspirations by creating a vision board. Include images, quotes, and reminders of what inspires you. This visual tool can keep you focused and motivated. It can also be a push to try a new medium, like collage art, mixed media or even digital art.

I love Pinterest for this! I collect all my ideas visually in a board and then further divide ideas and inspiration into sub boards! What is great is that you can keep this private so only you can see it. AND if you want it to show up on your phone, here are instructions on how to do so!

5. Maintain a Balanced Routine

Establish a daily routine that balances work, rest, and recreation. Consistency in your schedule can provide structure and help you stay productive without feeling overwhelmed. Especially being an entrepreneur, it’s easy to just do things with the flow of what we feel like. That’s a perk of working for yourself. However, it can feel like you are very busy but get nothing done… Creating a routine, or at least keeping track of what you’re doing and how long things take can help you understand many things about your workflow and tasks.

6. Document Your Creative Journey

Keep a journal or blog to document your creative journey. Reflecting on your experiences and progress can provide insight and motivation. Keep it private or share your journey with your audience to connect and inspire others.

This can be an art project in itself, or it can be as easy as keeping photos in a folder on your computer with dates on them!

7. Find a Mentor or Coach

Seek guidance from a mentor or coach who understands the challenges of being an artist. Their experience and advice can provide valuable perspectives and encouragement.

Take care of yourself, and your art will flourish.

With mindful practices and proactive strategies, you can manage burnout effectively. You can maintain your passion and continue to thrive as a pyrographer with practicing the points above.

Remember, your art is not just your work—it's a reflection of your unique vision and creativity.

The Artists Way by Julia Cameron

"The Artist's Way" by Julia Cameron a 12-week adventure designed to help anyone rediscover their creative mojo.

Each chapter mixes motivational essays, fun exercises, and some serious soul-searching tasks aimed at breaking down the barriers we set up against our own creativity.

It’s Basia here and I just wanted to take a moment and share this book and the beginning of my journey through it.

Rachel has completed the book several times and said that each time, she seemed to uncover new depths of herself as well as her creativity that even she didn't know existed. She recommended that I give it a try, and I'm embarking on this journey once again, alongside her.

Especially since moving an hour up North, I was in the thick of change and needed some guidance. I felt stuck with which direction to go, art wise, as well as in other facets of my life.

There are a bunch of tasks, and activities and such which go with each week, but there are two things you need to complete every week, consistently.

ONE:

The first is an artists date. This is a date with yourself, the artist, doing whatever it is you want to do! It can be as simple as going for a walk, to visiting the museum, to making a new art piece... It’s a chance to intentionally treat yourself!

My last date included going to the a small local greenhouse with a gardening store attached to it. I didn’t go with the intention of buying anything; I went with the intention of perusing slowly through the isles and looking at all the flowers, taking photos, getting inspired by all the colours, textures and nature. It’s such a simple thing, yet it made a big impact on my mood and inspired me in many ways… It was also really nice to slow down and literally smell the roses.

TWO:

The second part of this journey includes writing daily. It’s journaling but in a freestyle, nonsense way. More like brain dumping than anything.

I've never considered myself a writer; in fact, writing has always given me anxiety and felt like a chore. Previous attempts at journaling felt forced and were invariably brief. It took long and always came out sounding forced.

Julia Cameron suggests this freestyle way of writing that's all about just letting it out. Now I write quickly and freely, without concern for structure, spelling, or even readability. The purpose is to simply let the words flow, knowing I'll never revisit these pages (I actually burn a lot of the pages I write and my writing is so messy, i can barely read it)! This has proven to be incredibly cathartic and freeing with many many many micro epiphanies about myself, my life and everything around me!

My biggest epiphany so far is about the style of writing itself. Writing in this way allows me to slow my mental chatter to one thought at a time, helping me to process each thought thoroughly instead of letting them all swirl around unexamined (and worst of all, usually repeating). It’s a simple, yet profoundly effective, way to clear the mind, which I never knew I had to do… I really never knew this kind of expression existed and I never really knew I needed it!

If you've ever felt stuck, unsure, or just curious about what your creative mind can do, "The Artist's Way" could be a thrilling experiment for you. It’s not just about becoming an artist—it’s about becoming more yourself. You don’t need to be good at drawing, writing, or anything at all; you just need to be open to exploring what creativity means for you.

Click here to see the book on Amazon. This is an affiliate link; I strongly recommend this book to anyone in search of inspiration, self-reflection, self-exploration and motivation.

Possibly, in time, I will share more about my creations and how my dates go, as well as give insight into my journey with this book.

What Does Royalty Free Mean?

"Royalty-free" in the context of art design refers to a licensing method where the purchaser pays a one-time fee to use the artwork without paying additional royalties or license fees for each use or volume sold. This contrasts with other licensing models, like rights-managed or editorial use, which may require ongoing payments based on usage parameters.

Here are some key aspects of royalty-free licenses:

1. Unlimited Use: Once purchased, the buyer can use the royalty-free artwork multiple times for multiple projects without incurring additional costs.

2. Flexible Application: The artwork can be used in a variety of applications, including marketing materials, websites, product packaging, and more, depending on the specifics of the license.

3. Non-Exclusive: Royalty-free licenses are typically non-exclusive, meaning the same artwork can be sold to multiple customers and used by them concurrently.

4. Upfront Cost: The initial cost tends to be higher than that of some other licensing models because it often covers broad usage rights.

** It's important for buyers to read the specific terms of a royalty-free license because restrictions may still apply, such as limitations on resale, modifications, or geographic use.

You're welcome to use our royalty-free templates to create and monetize your own content, but please remember: reselling the template as is, is not allowed. This helps keep it exclusive and valuable for all creators. All our royalty-free templates include a .Jpg, .Png, .Svg, and a .Pdf so users can easily transfer them to any medium.

Check out what templates we have that are free for you to use however you like:

Did you know?

Join the burn club to receive a FREE royalty-free template each month! Last month we gave away this bergamot flower pattern. You can now find it up for sale here.

So what can you use these patterns for?

• Pyrography of course!

• Relief carving

• Painting

• Colouring

• Tracing

• Canva Templates

• POD (print on demand services)

• Creation and sale of unlimited physical items

• So much more

Public Domain Images

"Public domain" refers to creative works that are not protected by intellectual property laws such as copyright, trademark, or patent regulations. This means that these works can be freely used by anyone for any purpose without needing permission from a previous rights holder.

Public domain and royalty-free both allow the use of materials without ongoing license fees but differ significantly. Public domain works are those whose copyright has expired or never existed, allowing anyone to use them freely for any purpose, including modifications and commercial use. In contrast, royalty-free refers to copyrighted works that can be used without paying additional royalties after the initial purchase, though the use may still be subject to specific conditions set by the license. While both provide broad usage rights, public domain offers the utmost freedom with no restrictions, whereas royalty-free use is controlled under the terms of a licensing agreement and may include limitations such as the type of allowed use or distribution volume.

There are many websites which offer royalty free images and public domain content. With these images, you can get inspires and make your own templates by tracing the actual image without worrying about copyright rules.

Here are our top 3 Royalty free/Public Domain sites for images & Videos

1. Pexels:

   These are stock photos, royalty free images & videos shared by creators. You don’t need an account to use some of these images: simply hover over the image you want (ensuring it is the free version) and click “download.

2. Unsplash:

   Very similar to Pexels. Lots of good stock photos and royalty free images and videos. Make sure you are downloading the free content before using.

3. Smithsonian Open Access:

   These is all public domain content. Here you can download, share, and reuse millions of the Smithsonian’s images! It includes images and data from across the Smithsonian’s 21 museums, nine research centers, libraries, archives, and the National Zoo - very cool!

What is the difference between Wood Burning and Pyrography?

Wood burning and pyrography are two terms that are often used interchangeably, but there is a slight difference between the two.

We prefer the term 'pyrography' but recognize that 'wood burning' is more commonly understood so we use both terms interchangeably across all our communication platforms—ranging from our website to verbal interactions and written materials—to ensure clarity and accessibility for all our audience.

Wood burning is the general term used to describe the process of using a heated tool to burn designs onto wood.

It is a subset of pyrography.

Wood burning is often associated with the traditional use of a heated tool (like a wood burning pen) to create art on wooden items. It typically implies a handcrafted approach and may be perceived as more craft-oriented.

This term is often used to describe the process of burning simple designs onto wood, such as lettering or basic shapes. It involves less precise designs and basic patterns.

Pyrography, on the other hand, is a more specialized form of wood burning with more diverse techniques and designs.

It is considered a form of art, and it requires more skill and precision than simple wood burning.

Pyrography typically involves using a specialized tool with temperature control, various tips, and techniques such as shading to create intricate designs.

Pyrography artists may also use stencils or transfer/graphite paper to create a design on the wood surface before burning it as well as hot metal brushes, combs or other objects to create texture.

While both wood burning and pyrography involve burning designs onto a burnable surface using a heated tool,

pyrography is a more intricate and specialized form of wood burning

that involves creating detailed artwork and designs using a variety of techniques and specialized tools.

How to ask the RIGHT questions to ChaptGPT to get the best results!

When ChatGPT first came out, I think it is safe to say that many of us were skeptical. I know I was. That’s because I didn’t understand its capabilities or even how to use it. My brother, being a tech junkie, showed me the light and once I dove in and asked it a few questions, I was hooked.

I couldn’t wait to ask it more and discover what it can do. It was helping me write screen plays in the voice of snoop dog, jokes for my nephews, bedtime stories for my daughter… I used it to meal plan, learn about which plants I should add to my shady garden and the list goes on. Now I use it more than I google search! If you haven’t tried it yet, I suggest you do!

Just remember though, ChatGPT can deliver quick and impressive results, but it's not human. It's important not to take everything it says at face value, especially when it comes to facts and statistics. Always double-check the information it provides and use your own judgment to fill in the gaps.

Here are a few tips straight from the source, and from experience, for asking ChatGPT the right questions to get the best answers:

1. Be clear and specific: When asking a question, be as clear and specific as possible.

2. Use appropriate language: ChatGPT is a language model, so it's important to use appropriate language when asking questions. Avoid using slang or overly complex language that may be difficult for the model to understand.

3. Provide context: For example, if you're asking a question about a specific topic, provide some background information to help ChatGPT understand the context of your question.

   One of my favourite ways to ensure that I am giving it all the context is to ask if it has any questions for me! This prompt is so good because I may be missing key information for it to fully understand what I want from it.

   More on this in the next section.

4. Ask follow-up questions: If you're not sure about an answer or need more information, ask follow-up questions to clarify your understanding. ChatGPT is designed to provide conversational responses, so feel free to ask as many questions as you need to get the information you're looking for.

   Again, you can also ask it to give you questions to help clarify what you want.

5. Break down complex questions: If you need to ask a complex question, break it down into smaller, more manageable parts.

6. Avoid ambiguity: Be specific in your question and avoid ambiguous language.

7. Be respectful: Remember that ChatGPT is an AI language model, and it's important to be respectful in your interactions. Avoid using offensive language or asking inappropriate questions, as this can undermine the quality of the responses you receive.

What are the ways in which you can give ChatGPT context?

There are several ways to provide context to ChatGPT when asking a question:

1. Background information: Provide some background information about the topic you're asking about.

2. Examples: It’s okay to give examples to illustrate your question or provide more information.

3. Related topics: If your question is related to another topic or concept, mention it in your question.

4. Keywords: Use relevant keywords in your question to provide more context. For example, if you're asking about a specific product or service, include the name of the product or service in your question.

   More on this below.

5. Tone: Use a clear and concise tone when asking your question.

6. Use specific qualifiers: Use qualifiers like "best," "worst," "most," "least," and "highest," to help specify the type of information you're looking for.

Does using multiple keywords in my question for ChatGPT help me get a better answer?

Using multiple keywords in your question can be helpful in some cases, as it can help ChatGPT to better understand the context of your question and provide you with a more accurate response.

However, it is important to use relevant keywords that are directly related to your question, rather than using irrelevant or extraneous keywords that may only serve to confuse ChatGPT.

Here are some tips for using keywords effectively:

1. Be specific: Use keywords that are specific to the topic you are asking about.

2. Use synonyms: Try using synonyms for your keywords to broaden your search and increase the chances of finding relevant information.

3. Don't overdo it: While using multiple keywords can be helpful, don't overdo it. Using too many keywords or irrelevant keywords can lead to inaccurate or irrelevant responses from ChatGPT.

4. Use natural language: When asking a question, use natural language that closely resembles how you would ask the question if you were speaking to a person.

Be Careful

Enjoy playing with this powerful tool but also be aware that ChatGPT is not connected to the internet and obviously, it’s not human. It can occasionally produce incorrect answers or not provide all the details... It has limited knowledge of world and events after a certain time (depending what version you have) and may also occasionally produce harmful instructions or biased content. You can get a good understanding of this when you ask it about topics you know really really well.

For example, I know pyrography really well. I tested ChatGPT and used it to ask questions all about wood burning. Since I am familiar with the art form, I could see that it was missing some information, or it was really close to getting the facts right, but they were slightly off… All the information it had was not everything about the topic.

A cool thing is that you can now ask it to create images! This also comes with some warning… here is an example of an image I tried creating for a blog post on wood grain:

To get to this awesome image, I had to try about 7 different prompts (I learned along the way…). Here are some bloopers that were funny and logically did not make sense:

You can even see the progression of the images as I learned the right way to ask it what I needed.

Along with using it for images, I like to use the app help me clarify my thoughts into words, correct my grammar or spelling, summarize my own words or give me a foundation to work with, rather than relying on it to create all my content.

For more information and support on ChatGPT visit OpenAI Help.

Oh and, do you know what else is cool? You can always ask it to give you the direct source of it’s answer - this is very helpful to know and have if you want to confirm the validity of it’s responses.

Along with that, the helpful tips in this blog post will get you the best results.

With ChatGPT, the world is your oyster - have fun!

Basia's Radial Symmetry Art (Digital Form)

Basia here! As you already know, I love to make art with patterns. Especially circular and symmetrical patterns!

I really got into creating digital art because it was just so easy to create on the go. I moved up North and while my things were packed, there were images in my head that I had to get out onto something tangible.

These will definitely inspire my future wood burning work.

Of course, I still stick to nature themed images as they continue to inspire me to create more art and also to get outside more. I moved into the forest, and plan to continue taking more photos and playing with more nature to find and create symmetrical artworks.

These digital artworks were made using procreate using my own photo’s as well as AI photos (using Midjourney).

I am addicted. It is so much fun to create these organized abstract designs!

To see my collection, and get them in a sticker, on a pillow, or even a shower curtain, check out my shop:

Below is a time-lapse of a floral pattern I made using my photos, cut, paste, arranged and then arranged again:

What is radial symmetry to me?

a radial symmetry pattern to me is the end result of a mindfulness journey.

It is what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!)

I use drawing a mandala (wether in digital format or on paper/wood) as a form of meditation.

The repetitive patterns I make help me zone out and immerse myself in each second.

If you want to learn how to make your own pattern (non-digital form), check out the Community Book of Templates (Radial Symmetry Edition) with instructions and a variety of templates for you to transfer onto wood and burn, OR the Art Deco/Art Nouveau style bundle, which I call Presence (digital and hardcopy available) full of templates and also step-by-step instructions to drawing your own patterns.

Once you learn how to draw your patterns, you can easily transfer them (or draw them directly) onto wood!

Click through the following links to learn how to transfer your designs using heat and without using heat!

Transforming a Dull Laundry Room into a Stylish Dog Washing Station

Home Project: Laundry Room

Welcome to my latest home improvement project journey! Today, I'm excited to share how I turned my uninspiring laundry room into a functional and chic dog washing station. With a little creativity and some DIY magic, I was able to breathe new life into this space and create a haven for both me and my furry friends.

Before:

Let's start with the before photos. My laundry room was, to put it bluntly, lackluster. The walls were painted a dull boring tan shade, the sink was outdated and too small to wash my pups in, the laundry machines were old and never got the clothes clean, the paint was chipping in places, and the countertops were a gross outdated tile. It was a space that kind of served its purpose but lacked personality and charm. It wasn’t a space I wanted to spend any time in, and we wanted to make it serve multiple uses: Laundry, Storage, and a Dog Washing Station without breaking the bank.

Products Used:

Before diving into the transformation process, let me introduce you to the MVPs (Most Valuable Products) that helped bring my vision to life: (Please Note: These include some Amazon Associate Links for the products we used. WBC receives a tiny portion of sales from Amazon)

1. Wallpaper: I chose a vibrant and eye-catching floral peel and stick wallpaper to add a pop of color and pattern to the walls. It instantly brightened up the space and set the tone for the entire room. Bonus: it is super easy to install yourself.

2. Sink: Say goodbye to the old, dingy sink and hello to the sleek and modern dog washing station. I opted for a deep stainless steel sink. It is not easy finding a sink that is both long and super deep. This one is 12” deep and 30” wide, and is perfect for my pups.

3. Wood Countertops: To add warmth and texture to the room, I installed custom faux wood countertops from IKEA. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they also provide a durable surface for all my laundry and dog grooming needs.

4. Faucet: We wanted a simple faucet with the retractable nozzle for easy dog washing, but it was also important to have the handheld off button for easy pausing. This $79 faucet was on sale for $39 on Amazon, and is perfect!

5. Dog Grooming Loop: This is key for a successful wash in our house. These dog grooming loops make it super simple to keep your dog in the sink while they are getting clean. We secured it to the wall using an eye hook, and now we are ready to clean our dirty pups, without breaking our backs!

6. Washer/Dryer Combos: This has been an absolute game changer! Two large capacity washer/dryer combos from GE. I put the clothes in and come back to washed and dried clothes! No more needing to rewash or re-dry clothes. No more forgetting clothes in the washing machine. This has been a huge time saver. And, it has the amazing feature of automatically dispensing detergent and softener. Laundry has become considerably more tolerable with these machines.

Transformation Process:

Now, let's talk about the fun part – the transformation process! With the help of some handy tools and a lot of elbow grease, I was able to turn my laundry room into a space that I'm proud to show off.

1. Prep Work: The first step was to clear out the room and remove the old countertop and sink. Once the space was empty, I prepped the walls for wallpaper installation by filling in any cracks and sanding down rough surfaces. (Spackling Compound, Sanding Sponge)

2. Wallpaper Installation: With the walls prepped and ready to go, it was time to apply the wallpaper. This step required careful measurements and precise cutting to ensure a seamless finish. After a few hours of work, the wallpaper was up, and the transformation was already taking shape. (Razor Blade Pen)

3. Time to paint those drab lower cabinets. I wanted it to be a color in both the laundry machines themselves and in the wallpaper, and this dark grey is it! (I used a paint we already had on hand from my stairwell trim, it was the perfect color and helps tie the house together).

4. Sink, Faucet, and Countertop Installation: Next up was installing the new sink and countertops. This involved some plumbing work and carpentry skills, but with the help of my handy hubby, measuring multiple times, some liquid nails, and a bit of trial and error, we were able to get everything installed correctly. (Liquid Nails, Quick Clamps)

After:

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for – the after photos! Drumroll, please... Ta-da! The once-dull laundry room has been completely transformed into a stylish and functional dog washing station. The vibrant wallpaper adds personality to the space, while the sleek sink and wood countertops provide both beauty and practicality.

Final Thoughts:

In conclusion, I couldn't be happier with how my laundry room makeover turned out. By investing a little time and effort, I was able to create a space that not only serves a practical purpose but also brings a bit of joy to my not so joyful chores. Whether I'm doing laundry or giving my furry friends a bath, this room now feels a whole lot better.

Thank you for joining me on this journey, and I hope you feel inspired to tackle your own home improvement projects. Stay tuned for more adventures in DIY!

Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

The difference between a wire tip/nib burner and a solid tip/nib burner primarily lies in their design and functionality.

Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

But first, please remember: The tools we use are undeniably important, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the user and what works best for them. Many artists can create incredible work with the simplest, most affordable tools, showing that skill and creativity matter more than price. On the flip side, even the fanciest tools can feel frustrating if we are learning the craft.

The same goes for wire-tip versus solid-tip pyrography pens—both have their strengths, but the best choice is whatever feels right in your hands and helps you create with ease. In fact, deciding between a solid-tip and a wire-tip tool is a great starting point when choosing your burner, as the functionality between these two types often has a bigger impact on your experience than the differences between machines from different brands. So let’s get into these differences.

Wire Tip/nib Burner:

• Design: Utilizes a closer-to-pen-like device with tips made of a looped wire or a wire nib. On some pens, these tips can be changed out, allowing for a wide variety of tip shapes and sizes (more on interchangeable nibs at the end). The pens are usually thinner and easier to hold, as the grip is located closer to the nib, allowing the pen to feel like an actual pen making it ideal for comfort, especially if you are burning for longer periods at a time.

• Temperature Control: Wire tip burners typically offer more precise temperature control, which can be adjusted quickly. This allows for quicker and more detailed and varied shading techniques.

  I have found that some pens with a thinner handle tend to overheat so be mindful of the company you choose (check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing a new tool).

• Durability: Generally these pens are more delicate than a solid nib making them more susceptible to damage over time. Proper care and a lighter hand will help them last longer.

• Learning Curve: Might have a slightly steeper learning curve due to the delicacy of the wire tips and the precision required in handling them.

• Heat Up Time: Generally, wire tips heat up and cool down much more quickly than solid tips.

Solid Tip/Nib Burner:

• Design: Features a pen-like device with a solid brass or copper tip. The tip variety is usually more limited compared to a wire nib, the pen is thicker and clunkier to hold and the grip is usually further away from the nib making it slightly more difficult to control, especially if burning for longer periods of time.

• Temperature Control: Solid tip burners are usually less precise in temperature control compared to wire tip burners, and adjustments may take longer to affect the tip temperature. However, because they are thick and solid, they do retain the heat better than a wire tip, making them ideal for large projects that require a lot of dark burning.

• Durability: Solid tips tend to be more durable than wire tips because they are less fragile and less susceptible to bending or breaking.

• Learning Curve: For beginners, solid tip burners might be easier to start with due to their durability and less delicate handling requirements.

• Heat Up Time: Solid tips generally take longer to heat up and cool down than wire tips, but, as stated earlier, they retain their hear better than a wire nib does.

Application:

• Wire Tip Burners are usually preferred for detailed art, fine shading, and where quick temperature adjustment is necessary.

• Solid Tip Burners are often used when learning the basics of pyrography due to cost and durability. The heat retention and covering large areas with shading is ideal with these style burners.

which one gets hotteR?

In terms of reaching a higher temperature, both types can be capable of very high temperatures suitable for pyrography. The key difference lies in how quickly they reach these temperatures and how precisely those temperatures can be controlled during the work.

Wire tip burners generally offer faster heat up times and more precise control, making it seem like they can get hotter faster, but in terms of maximum temperature capabilities, it's more about the specific company and its design rather than the tip type alone.

However, there are some general characteristics related to how each type manages and conducts heat that can influence their operating temperatures:

Wire Tip Burners are designed for precise control and can reach very high temperatures quickly due to their thin wire construction, which has less mass to heat. This design allows for rapid heat transfer and adjustment, making them suitable for intricate work that requires changing temperatures quickly for different effects.

Solid Tip Burners, on the other hand, have a larger mass in their tips, which means they take longer to reach the desired temperature. However, once heated, they can retain heat longer due to the larger thermal mass. The heat distribution over the solid tip is more uniform, which can be advantageous for certain types of shading and consistent line work.

Interchangeable nibs on wire tip burners:

Interchangeable nibs for wood burning tools allow artists to switch between different tip styles for various effects in their projects with only one pen. These nibs can range from fine points for detailed work to larger, flat tips for shading or transferring images.

Pros: Interchangeability offers flexibility and creativity, enabling users to achieve a wide range of textures and depths in their art without needing multiple tools. This versatility is particularly valuable for artists looking to explore different techniques or work on projects that require both detailed and broad work. It’s a good way to learn what you like using without spending loads of money.

Cons: Interchangeable nibs, while versatile, can have drawbacks such as requiring time to switch between nibs, which might interrupt the workflow. There's also a learning curve in mastering different nib types for optimal use. Additionally, the delicate nature of some wire nibs can lead to breakage if not handled with care. Exercise caution when tightening to ensure a complete connection, or your heating may not be even. High-quality interchangeable nibs might come with a higher initial cost, although they offer long-term flexibility and savings from not needing multiple dedicated tools.

In summary

Wire-tip tools are lightweight and heat up quickly, offering precision and flexibility for fine details and shading. Solid-tip tools are sturdier and retain heat longer, making them ideal for bold lines and consistent burning on tougher surfaces.

Choosing between them often comes down to personal preference and the type of project you’re working on.

When starting out, due to the low price point, we recommend a solid tip/nib burner (the Versa Tool from Walnut Hollow is our favorite). It gives you a fair chance to know if you will enjoy burning while keeping the price of starting this hobby at a minimum.

These are a good basic tool to have in your toolkit anyways, even if you upgrade to a wire tip. Some artists never even upgrade to another tool but at least you will have that option without breaking the bank.

If you plan on burning more often, want a faster heat-up time, more variety, a more comfortable grip, consider a wire tip burner. Check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing your new tool.