Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible (especially light shading) so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece. Learn more about how to avoid this here: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

***Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, or if you sanded in the wrong direction, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

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Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe. Always look for the words “food safe”

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

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General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable. However, polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects..
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand. We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice and find it lasts the longest without clouding or yellowing. Also, any information you may need to finsish a project is easy to find on their website and if you are really stuck, the customer service is absolutely amazing!

Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin. To learn more about this, check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool

Tool care and cleaning is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.

Caring for a pyrography machine ensures its longevity and consistent performance.

If you are in the market to buy, but don’t know what to choose, check out this blog post: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Below are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape.

We include products with Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools. We only recommend what we know and love.

For general wood burner (machine)care:

• Make sure your burner has good air flow.

• Make sure it is free of dust and dirt. Do not use harsh chemicals or water to clean the machine, as this can damage its components: Wipe the machine and pen with a soft, dry cloth instead.

• Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time and avoids damaging internal components.

• Avoid pulling or yanking the cords; instead, unplug it gently.

• Follow manufacturer instructions: Refer to the user manual for specific care recommendations for your pyrography machine.

When traveling or Storing: take care to pack your burner well.

• Keep the machine in a cool, dry place, away from moisture or extreme temperatures.

• Do not to bend any of the cords with force or pressure or excessively. This will cause the wires to break or become weak inside the palstic. You usually can’t see this happeneing but it does, especially with lots of bending.

• Store the pen with its tip detached or in a protective case to prevent damage. Usually the pens come in individual cases… Keep these for travel or storage. I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!

nib care:

• Ensure the tips or nibs you use are compatible with your machine.

• Handle tips with care, as bending or forcing them can damage the connectors. This goes for when in use and storing them!
  

Nib Cleaning:

You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.

My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my nip/tip/pen a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy” or I see char build-up.

Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.

These are other ways that you can clean them.

These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.

Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.

Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.

Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.

Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.

In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!

How to have fun with loose watercolor and pyrography

What you need: Get all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

Below are to all the products we used (some are Amazon affiliate links):

• Small Basswood Country Round

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point (use the code WBC15 for 15% off!).

• Graphite Paper

• Sand Paper

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Washi Tape

• Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool

• Watercolor

• Paintbrush

• Finish

I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:

What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Choosing a burner can be quite difficult. There are so many brands, so many options, so many nibs and it can all be a bit confusing. When you are looking into a wood burning tool you need to think about a couple things.

1. Price

2. Use

3. Style

Price - What will my money get me?

Wood burning tools can range in price from $15-$200+, and more money does not necessarily mean you will get a better burn.

I like to think that there is 4 different levels in price.

$15: These are value tools, that usually just have an on/off switch. Recommend only if you are doing one project. They will come with several nib options but take some time to heat up and are a bit bulky to hold. This one from Walnut Hollow has been tried, tested and true. Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

If you can invest a little more money, especially if you want to continue pyrography, we recommend going up, at least one more level.

$30: These are usually your solid-nibbed wood burning tools with temperature control. They usually come with several interchangeable nibs, are portable, but take a little while to heat and cool. Still slightly bulky, but for learning, exploring and understanding the art of pyrography, this price range is what you should be looking for.

Be weary of anything around this price or cheaper, especially off of amazon…

We love the Walnut Hollow Versa tool. This was our first burner, and after trying many many others, this is still one we recommend for beginners and large projects the most! Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$80 to $120: These are considered professional level machines, or entry level wire nib burners. Most come with interchangeable nibs. They may be lower quality wire nibs, when they are interchangeable, that may need some gentle tweaking before use or with a limited number of nibs, but this option is good if you want to learn what nib you like best. The grip will be more pen-like, it will have decent temperature control, and it will heat and cool faster than the previous tools. They are lighter weight machines and are not meant for heavy use.

Again, we love Walnut Hollow. Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$120+: These are your professional machines. These are sturdy, heavy duty, professional equipment. A lot of the time you will need to buy the machine separate from the pens/nibs. Many of the nibs are hand formed. There are options for pen choices(fixed pen and interchangeable options) and tons of individual options for nib choices (flow, spade, writing, shading transfer hot stamps). Some companies will customize nibs, and some offer such a wide range you wont need customization (looking at you Razertip). The grip of these machines will be pen-like, it will have excellent temperature control(in some cases precise to the last degree), it will heat and cool in seconds, and in general these machines will reach much higher temperatures. Some great companies, our top three, include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

Use - How will I use my wood burning tool?

ONE TIME USE - If you are planning on using a wood burning tool for just one project, then go ahead and get yourself a single temperature, solid-nibbed value wood burning tool. A tool like the Walnut Hollow Value Tool is around $15 (Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15). It comes with several nib options and you will be able to complete your project.

HOBBIEST and PROFESSIONALS - If you plan on doing more than one project, or very large projects, then we highly recommend that you get yourself a solid-nibbed, temperature-controlled woodburning tool. The Walnut Hollow Versatool is our favorite. This tool is so versatile, inexpensive (around $30 - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15), comes with a bunch of useful nibs, and works like a dream. This could easily be the only tool you buy. The level of detail that you can achieve with this one tool is astounding. Just go look at the #versatool to see what I mean. There are many professional wood burning artists who only use this tool.

PROFESSIONALS - If you are burning more than a couple times a week, then you should invest or start saving up to invest in a proper professional machine. These machines will decrease your time wasted waiting for you tools to heat/cool, will allow you to have a more ergonomic grip while working, they will allow for quicker nib changes, and will just speed up your whole process. They are worth the investment. Some great companies include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

STATIONARY OR MOBILE - Will you have a dedicated wood burning station, or will you be on the move? This is something to consider when choosing the right burner for you. Some do not pack or travel well, while others are made to be portable.

Style - Solid vs Wire Nibs

SOLID: A Solid-nibbed or solid-tipped burner has a long heated shaft, with nibs that screw directly into the shaft. Your hand placement is further away from the surface being burned, and is generally a thick grip that will take some getting used to. They can come in temperature-controlled and single temperature varieties. These range from $15-$30.

Now, a solid-nibbed burner, like the WH Versatool does have its drawbacks. It takes a little while to heat up and cool down, the grip is thick and requires your hand to be far away from the surface you are burning (can take some getting used to), and the docking station is not very solid. But… this compact machine can burn! It’s great for covering large areas too as a solid nib burner will retain its heat better than a wire burner. We recommend this tool, or something similar be in every wood burning artists tool bag.

There is also an amazing nib called the Transfer Nib. It is amazing for transferring images to wood precisely and quickly. Check out this blog post on Using Heat To Transfer Images Onto Wood.

WIRE: A wire nib burner, or often called a professional burner, generally has a more pen-like appearance with a wire at the end that heats up. Your hand placement is much closer to the surface burning. The machine heats and cools quickly. These usually have a solid docking station, great temperature control, and a wide range of nib options.

The different nibs can be changed in a variety of ways for these wire nib burners.

1. WHOLE PEN/FIXED NIB - Some people prefer to have the entire pen switch out. It does decrease the chances of having connection issues, because changing nibs is so easy. These pens with a fixed nib usually just plug in quite quickly and easily. This is a more expensive option than the interchangeable nib, but more convenient and they tend to last longer than the interchangeable nib pens.

2. INTERCHANGEABLE NIB - This can be done in a couple ways. Sometimes the wire nib is in its own housing, and the housing switches out. Other times, you will fine that you are unscrewing the actual wire, and replacing it with a different wire. The ones in their own housing can be changed quicker and easier with less issue. I have found that when you are changing out just the wire, you need to be careful to make sure that all the connections are solid or your burner wont heat properly. Always test your temperature after switching out nibs.

Choose your Burner

Now that you know the different options, and what you should consider, it’s time to choose a burner. Here are some burners that we have personally held in our hands:

Here are some websites and Amazon Affiliate Links to the companies I trust: (Wood Burn Corner receives a small portion if you purchase through these links, or look below to visit the individual website’s of each manufacturer.)

Walnut Hollow:

Click here to visit Walnut Hollow’s site and below are our two favourite Walnut Hollow tools:

The Walnut Hollow Versatool

and The Creative Wood Burner.

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Tekchic:

Check out Tekchic - this machine is powerful, compact and has a decent grip on the pen.

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TruArt:

This machine is also really reliable and gets nice and hot. A bit thicker on the hand grip but works well.

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PJL Enterprises - Optima 1:

Visit PJL Enterprises to see their collection of tools. These pens are more pen-like, machine gets hot and the switches are very satisfying.

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Razertip:

Take a look at the Razertip’s options and their wide selection. They have new digital burners with a bit of a higher heat, but even their older models are one of our favourites.

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Want to learn more about Wood Burning and improve pyrography Skills?

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to us!

Come join our community of pyrographers in Burn Club where we share tips, tricks, pyro resources, and free templates and coupon codes for pyro materials and accessories.

Also check out these other informative blog posts:

Pricing your Art

160 Ideas of What to Wood Burn Next

Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning