DIY Wood Burned Plant Marker

Wood burned garden or plant markers can be a fun and creative way to label your plants in your garden outdoors or indoors.

This project took me about 20-30 minutes for 4 markers and was completely free!

Edward, over here, is one of my favourite plants. He likes to be watered from the bottom (I put him into a bowl of water for 15-20 minutes instead of pouring water from the top). When I am away for an extended period of time, this marker helps out the person who is coming to water my plants, know that he likes to be watered in a certain way.

I wanted something quick and free because wood exposed to natural elements, like the sun, over long periods of time will make the burning fade. Also, consistent moisture will cause the wood to decay over time so choose a marker that doesn’t break the bank and keep your design simple. The markers may not last outdoors more than one season, especially if they are really thin. Indoor markers will last much longer.

Below are the steps to make your own:

Materials:

• The marker (I used a stick form my backyard)

• Wood burning tool

• Pencil

• Design or pattern (optional)

• Sandpaper

Steps to making your own garden markers:

1. Select your marker of choice

I chose to work with sticks that I found in my backyard because I was going for a natural look, and I wanted this project to be free and easy. If you prefer a more finished look, you can find pre-made mini wooden stakes/markers in all shapes and sizes online. Above all, make sure that whatever surface you choose, it is untreated and unfinished.

Choosing the right stick:

• Make sure to choose branches and sticks that have dried out thoroughly and have been broken off the tree/bush for a while. Do not take branches that can bend easily or directly off a tree. This is green wood and should not be burned on (see here for a list of woods to avoid burning on). Green wood refers to wood that has been freshly cut from a tree and has not been dried or seasoned yet. It contains a high amount of moisture and can create a lot of smoke, will burn much slower and will not burn consistently and crisply.

• Choose a stick that is free from any major knots or defects because creating a flat surface is difficult when the stick is wonky.

• Keep in mind the size and thickness of your stick. You can use a saw or pruning shears if you need to trim the stick to length. I just broke my stick with my hands because it was super dry and small enough and then I sanded the broken edges down a tiny bit to make it look a little cleaner.

2. Create a flat surface

I used a regular knife to carve a flat section on the top of the stick. It’s much easier to carve when the knife is sharp. If you do not have any sharpening stone or strop to sharpen your knife, the bottom of a ceramic mug will do in a pinch. This method can help to hone the blade's edge slightly, but it won't actually sharpen it by removing material from the blade. This method is perfect for this mini project but not ideal for larger projects.

How to sharpen a knife using a ceramic mug:

To use the bottom of a mug for honing, turn the mug upside down and hold it firmly in your hand, pointing away from your body. Then, angle the knife blade at a 20-degree angle against the unglazed, rough part of the bottom of the mug. Draw the blade down the surface of the mug, applying light pressure and maintaining the same angle throughout the process. Repeat this motion several times on each side of the blade. After sharpening, test the blade by slicing through a piece of paper or card stock.

Carving your stick

Safety should always be a top priority when carving a stick. Always use a sharp knife, cut away from your body, and wear protective gloves if necessary.

Start by making small cuts and removing thin shavings from the stick.

Work slowly and carefully, and ALWAYS cut away from your body to avoid accidents.

Sanding your surface

Once you have an area that is fairly smooth and the size you want, sand the area to remove any roughness or splinters. Sanding it smooth will make the burning process easier and more crisp so don’t skip this step.

3. Create your design

Using a pencil, lightly sketch the name of your plant, herb or vegetable (or whatever design you want to burn onto the wood). This will act as a guide for your wood burning tool. You do not have to follow it exactly, and can erase any lines you adjusted mid burn. Drawing it out first helps to find the centre of the area.

4. Burn it

For smaller wood pieces that are tricky to hold, use tape to hold them down while you burn.

Heat up your wood burning tool and select the tip you want to use for your design.

Use your safety gear (check out our safety tips and free downloadable guide here).

Start Burning. Carefully trace over your pencil sketch to burn the design onto the wood. Take your time and go slowler than you think you should and let the burner do the work. Turn down the heat if you feel like you are not in control.

I like to burn deep and hard so that my piece lasts longer. This causes some over-burn or glowing lines so I use sandpaper after I burn to get rid of those. The sandpaper also helps get rid of the pencil marks. Click here if you want more tips on getting rid of leftover marks or fixing mistakes.

Wipe off any residual ash or debris from the wood with a clean, dry cloth (microfibre works best) or an old clean toothbrush works too!

Sanding will remove some of the burn marks so go in and touch up any spots that got removed when sanding until you are happy with the final product.

5. finish it (optional)

Applying beeswax to you garden markers can help to protect it from moisture, weathering, and insects. Beeswax is a natural wax that has water-resistant properties.

On you cleaned surface, use a soft cloth to apply a thin layer of melted beeswax, rubbing it in with circular motions until the entire surface is covered. Allow the beeswax to dry and harden, and then buff the surface of the marker with a clean, dry cloth to bring out the shine. Beeswax can be reapplied as needed to maintain the protective coating on the garden marker.

6. Enjoy it

Finally, place your wood burned garden markers in your garden next to the plants they are labeling or in your potted plants indoors.

That's it! Hope this inspires you to make some fun, functional and personalized art!

Want to learn more about pyrography??

Check out this blog post: Start Here if You Are New To Wood Burning

And grow with the community: Subscribe to our free Burn Club newsletter for freebies, pyrography tips and tricks, and so much more!

DIY Wood Burning Kit

Wood burning is such a versatile, relaxing, useful and wonderful hobby, and we’re so excited for you to discover it all.

For all the beginners who want to try out this craft, we created The Wood Burn Box, which is basically a starter kit that has everything we would use when completing a pyrography project and all the basic tools and supplies you need to make beautiful wood-burned pieces of art.

We love The Wood Burn Box but wanted some more customizable aspects. We put together The DIY Starter Wood Burning Kit where you can choose the supplies and materials depending on your project choices and budget!

Please note: A majority of the items on the list are affiliate links. We would never recommend something that we didn’t believe in or haven’t tried, so you can be sure you are getting the right tools and materials to complete the job!

Download you Guide to Wood Burning and then scroll down to choose your materials and supplies!

The DIY Starter Wood Burning Kit

1. The Tool

There are many options to the tools one can use to complete a project. The prices vary widely but so does the quality, function and comfort level when using the tools. Below are three options from least expensive to more professional:

We always recommend The Walnut Hollow Versa Tool when starting out. The price point is affordable and the tool is a quality burner (especially for the price).

Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

This tool allows you to get an understanding of pyrography without dishing out a bunch of money. You can really create any piece with this variable temperature burner, especially larger pieces requiring a lot of coverage.

This tool is bit bulky to hold and the electrical wire on it is a bit stiff. The handle is far away from the nib making it a wee bit awkward to hold (not ideal if you are spending hours of burning time). However, many professional artists can get past this and never upgrade to a different tool. Some artists use gloves or a little bean bag cushion under their hand to give them more support and comfort.

Even with these drawbacks, this is a good tool for beginners and one I enjoy having in my tool bag. My favorite part about this solid point tool is that you can get a separate transfer point nib that will allow you transfer images onto wood quickly and efficiently.

The higher end tools we recommend are professional wire tip burners. These can be quite expensive, but are fantastic for frequent users. They heat up and cool down quickly, are more comfortable to hold, and have many different nib options which are generally easier and faster to changeout while burning. We recommend either the Razertip or the Optima 1 from PJL Enterprises. They are both quality tools.

Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.

2. The Burnable surface

Most commonly, wood is the surface choice for pyrography artist. The list of other items you can burn on is long but wood is a good place to start because it is usually flat, easily available and affordable.

Check out our Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On

Where to get wood:

You can source wood from many different locations. From your local lumber yards, renovation and kitchen cabinetry shops, Facebook market place and even online classifieds like Craigslist and Kijiji.

Often times wood is being given away or sold at a super low price (especially for offcuts and scrap pieces). You don’t always have the luxury of choosing what you will get but can save a lot of money and push your creativity.

Please, always ensure you know what you are burning on! Check out our Guide to Burning Safely blog post to stay safe while burning. Never burn on anything with a finish and always utilize safety equipment.

We love Walnut Hollow for their sustainability efforts, variety of wood styles as well as their quality. Their woods are pre-sanded and ready for crafting. They primarily have basswood, birch and pine and some have a live edge and some do not. We recommend for beginners to start with Basswood: get 15% off your order from Walnut Hollow using the coupon code: WBC15

Look for their basswood and birch options. Stay away from pine for your first burn at pine can cause some frustrations when burning.

Another company we love for wood is It’s David and Renee. Their wood is butter smooth! They are a small business and all their slices are hand made with loads of care and attention to detail. They offer a sample pack, a burnable box package and other fun and unique woods to burn on like cutting boards and a whole bunch of differently shaped ornaments!

It’s David and Renee have a Patreon group called The Timberdoodle, where you can get access to bulk orders, first dibs on now stock, and coupon codes/discounts!

You can also check out these other wood suppliers: Rustic Wood Supply, Woodpecker Crafts, and Aspen Rustic Creations

Uk people, check out Waney Woodworks

People in Canada, check out Lee Valley Tools and Exotic Wood

3. Optional Tools for Wood Burning

You can do just about anything once you have the machine and a surface to burn on. There are a few items to make the process more enjoyable, quicker and easier.

Graphite paper provides a cheap and quick way to get designs you drew on paper or printed out onto your wood. Not as fast as the heat method above but definitely much cheaper.

Check out this blog post to learn how to use this paper to transfer your design.

You can simply use a pen or pencil (a red pencil crayon helps you not to miss any lines) with your graphite paper or you can use an embossing tool.

Embossing Tools allow you to transfer your design without completly damaging the original artwork (tracing over it).

Washi tape holds down your design without damaging the surface or the original artwork.

The Tombow Sand Eraser! This little guy is a great options for removing leftover tracing lines and possibly one of Wood Burn Corner’s greatest discoveries.

Click here for a blog post with more information on removing lines or mistakes from your wood.

Another option for removing leftover lines from your pencil or graphite is sandpaper! Sandpaper is also a go to for making your surface smooth and ready to sand on. The smoother the surface, the more pleasant your burning experience will be! This pack has all the levels of grit.

Learn more about sanding your wood here.

I use a brass brush for cleaning my nibs. These ones I suggest lay flat so they are convenient to use mid burn.

Click here to see other ways to keep your nips and tips clean and functioning properly!

Patterns to trace

Grab some patterns to trace! Following a line will make it easier to focus on the function of your tool versus where you will be burning next, especially if you are not comfortable with drawing free-hand. Below are two FREE templates to get you started.

Check out our Community Template Books for even more patterns to practice with or visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale!

More Resources

Grow with the community: Join the Burn Club mailing list. There are monthly giveaways, a place to ask your burning questions, links to resources and so much more!

Grab The Wood Burn Book for projects and inspiration plus more information about pyrography including creating textures, finishing your piece and mixed media!

Best Wood for Pyrography

Wood is the most common surface for pyrography! There are other surfaces you can burn on, but wood is available almost everywhere and is definitely a great place to start if you are new to wood burning.

Always look for unfinished, sanded smooth, and dried wood. These are musts for pyrography.

There are also some woods you should absolutely avoid and that list, you can find here.

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

And onto what you will want to burn on! Below are the top wood surfaces to burn on according to our own experiences as well as from polling hundreds of pyrographers in the community.

Please note there are affiliate links below. We always link to products we know and love and personally have used ourselves!

Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On

Basswood

Basswood is a very common wood species that is easy to find and easy to burn on.

It is a favorite amongst pyrographers because of its availability, light color (creating nice contrast with burn lines) and for the way it burns. It is easy and smooth to burn on.

The grain is visible, but still smooth so it doesn’t effect your burn as much as other woods.

The even, light color makes it the perfect canvas for wood burning. Oh and the color of the wood only darkens slightly when adding any oils or finishes. Other woods can get much darker.

It is easily found with the very classic tree-bark live-edge, making the perfect rustic rounds.

The bonus with basswood is that because it’s commonly available, it comes in loads of different shapes, sizes, live edge, no live edge, thick or thin, etc… We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15 - Walnut Hollow’s collection of Basswood are always sanded smooth and are ready to burn on:

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Cherry

Cherry is such a lovely wood to burn on. There are many variations (color and grain) which may be distracting for some, but for others, this adds character.

One slight downfall is that cherry contains some natural sap, which can release potentially irritating fumes when burned so please, as with any wood surface you are burning on, proceed with safety and caution.

I love cherry for it’s warm, reddish tone and rich colour. You can create beautifully detailed pyrography art on it at a slightly higher heat setting (or slower pace).

Be careful in adding any finishes (stains or even colourless oils and sealers), as cherry wood darkens quite a bit. You can still see the burn lines, but it decreases the contrast the pyrography marks make.

Here is an example of a cherry wood slice with resin on it. The colour is rich and beautiful but if your design has light shading, it could disappear after a finish is applied!

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Birch

Birch is a harder in structure, when it comes to pyrography, which means you either turn up the heat or move slower with it. Because it is a harder wood, it allows for incredible details.

Even though it is slightly harder to burn on, it still has beautiful qualities like the light blonde color, stunning white live edge bark and subtle grain lines that don’t interfere with the burning. It typically has a bright, creamy-white color or yellowish tint and a satin-like sheen to its finish which makes for nice contrast when burning.

Basia enjoys burning on end grain, like on this round live edge wood slice above, especially when the wood slice has the bark in tact. Rachel prefers face grain wood which has the grain running across the entire wood slice.

In general, birch trees aren't as big (or thick) as other hardwoods, so the slices you get from them usually aren't big either. Because of this, companies make birch wood plywood. As with ANY plywood, these planks use a lot of glues which can be dangerous to burn on. Always wear the safety gear, no matter what.

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Aspen

Aspen burns very similar to basswood in our experience, but isn’t just one solid color. It has lovely variations in color to it, which is my favourite part about this wood - it's easy to recognize and the colours on it can add to your design. If that doesn’t work for you or your design, try a face grain cut slice (the planks versus the rounds). Not sure what face grain is? Check out our Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist blog post to learn more.

Aspen is softer when burning making it feel buttery smooth and satisfying.

The grain is subtle and you can barely feel anything at all when burning, especially if sanded properly!

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Walnut

Walnut is such a juicy wood to burn on. It has a lovely medium/dark brownish color to it, and smells amazing when you burn it, however it is more on the expensive side.

It also contains a natural compound called juglone, which can cause respiratory irritation when burned in large amounts (if you burn hot) or over long periods of time. It’s essential to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and follow ALL safety precautions, as with any other woods you are working with.

This is one of those woods that soaks up finishes and darkens quite a bit when you put any finishes. This could make your lines and shading not as visible… Any light shading will disappear.

However, add a finish to this and just watch the natural grain pop and shine; So much dimension in this wood species!

The grains are visible but don’t interfere with burning. It is a dream is you burn deep like I do.

We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! They have buttery smooth Walnut - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

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Maple

Maple is one of Rachel’s personal favorites to burn on. She love the subtle grain in it (which does not get in the way of burning), and the color of the wood makes a great canvas.

It is harder than basswood, and is just lovely to burn on at a slightly higher heat. It is nice and lightly colored, lending itself well for pyrography. Finishes will darken the surface but not very much so you will not loose your work.

Maple is a bit more costly than basswood, but is worth it.

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Sourwood

Sourwood is one of Basia’s favourites due to the large and intricate live edge bark on it. The bark is so stunning, it creates it’s own frame of sorts!

The surface is lighter in color making a great canvas for burning and even though it is a hardwood, with some patience, higher heat and a slower pace, it is still a pleasure to burn on.

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Poplar

Poplar is another great choice for wood burning. It is another light colored option, although often it has a green tone to it which not everyone likes. There is a process you can take to get rid of this but it must be completed after you burn (because burning on the treatment is dangerous) and may require a bit of sanding so ensure your burn lines are fairly deep.

The grains can get in the way a bit, but otherwise it is a fairly smooth burn. It is quite similar to maple, but less expensive. A great choice for pyrography and very accessible and cheap.

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Cedar

Cedar has a beautiful rich red color in the center and a lighter color on its edges.

It burns really nicely and is lovely to work with because is a softer wood. It feels like butter. It’s easy to understand pyro tools and the variety of nibs and what they can do because you require less control when the wood is softer, can burn at a higher temperature, therefore allowing you to play around a little.

WARNING! Cedar is a very resinous wood. All kinds of cedar, but especially ones like Western Red Cedar, contain natural oils and resins, (creosote) which may release harmful fumes when burned (more fumes when heated very high). I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy this wood for a project, but I had a lot on hand after a building project. Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood.

Also, beware when staining, that red color deepens quite a bit, so always practice before adding a finish to a cedar wood burned piece.

A great place to learn more about your favorite wood types is at wood-database.com - here you will find all the specs you need!

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Runner-up Wood Surfaces to Burn On

1. Beech

2. Cork (Be careful with this one! Not all cork is made with glue, so make sure to use natural cork which is made directly from the bark of the cork oak tree).

3. Ash

4. Mahogany

5. Alder

6. Sycamore

7. Cypress

8. Willow

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Check out the DO NOT BURN ON list here.

Click Here for pyrography surfaces to burn on that are not wood!

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

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How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Mistakes. They happen. You can not easily “edit + undo” in pyrography but there are a couple tricks to making mistakes less visible.

This post includes affiliate links - we only recommend items that we have tried and love!

how to get rid of pyrography mistakes:

Razor - This technique is best for lighter burns. Use a razor as a little scraper to remove burn lines that are not too deep. For deeper burns you can still use this trick, however, you will have a dent/groove from the burn and scraping… It will take the contrast away and be less visible though!

Dremel Tool - Same idea as the razor except with a little more power. Depending on the shape of your Dremel bit, you can get into tight corners.

Sanding Stick - Same idea as the Dremel tool but with less power and more precision (depending on the Dremel bits you have. A sanding stick has a straight edge you can use for small fixes). For small areas, try a tiny sanding stick or wrap some sandpaper on a ruler or wood slice if in a pinch,

Sandpaper - If you want to fix a small mistake and don’t have a sanding stick, try folding up the sandpaper to create a sharp edge. Or wrap the paper around a block and use a corner to remove mistakes.

Tombow Eraser - A super handy eraser that is half eraser and half sandpaper. It has grit within it so it helps to take off any lines and overburn and the eraser in it does the rest. It works great on pencil but it won’t take off 100% of dark graphite (if you pressed really hard during your transfer). Use a tombow eraser first as it won’t scratch up your surface and then finish off with a super light sanding.

Keep Burning - Sometimes you just need to embrace the mistakes and work with them. Continue burning and adjust the original design to make your mistake disappear. Try to burn around the area instead of on top as burning the same spot will result in a deeper burn which may stand out and cannot be fixed.

How to get rid of transfer lines or pencil marks:

You’ve finished your wood slice art piece but can see remaining pencil lines from drawing your design, or even worse, transfer lines after using a no-heat transfer technique or the heat technique, you can see bits and pieces of your graphite lines.

There are a couple ways to get rid of these too!

1. Tombow sand eraser:

   Start here as the eraser gets the majority of the lines off or at least makes them much lighter and less visible.

2. Give it a VERY light sanding with sandpaper:

   Regular old sandpaper will work to get off graphite and pencil lines. Lightly sanding over your burn lines makes them sharper and cleaner, getting rid of overburn. This part sounds scary but it will really get everything off! Except what you’ve burned of course, UNLESS your lines and shading are not deep. If you have very light shading or lines, you may have to touch them up. I usually recommend getting the outline or majority of my design burned, take of the graphite lines with the Tombow eraser and a light sand, AND THEN fill in details and shading.

   After sanding, you may be getting dust in between your pyro lines that are tricky to get out. I use a sandpaper that has a sponge on the back and wipe it with that (dry of course). You can also use a toothbrush, air compressor (like the ones people use to clean their keyboards - they have motorized ones which are better for the environment and more portable than a construction one), or a microfibre cloth.

Some tips on avoiding the whole process of erasing leftover lines:

1. Firstly, use graphite paper or blue chaco paper. Carbon lines are much much harder to take off!

2. Use a light hand to transfer your design.

3. Transfer the minimal amount of lines (i.e. just the outline and the placement of a few details to get you going).

4. Draw your design directly on the wood, and lightly with a pencil or chalk (much easier to erase than any transfer paper).

5. Try burning free hand! I mark the general shape or outline with a couple dots or dashes using a pencil. That way there is much less to take off and I usually end up burning on top of those few lines. Tape also works well to make temporary borders.

5 Common Pyrography Myths

Megan of @happicamperkc is such a fabulous pyrographer and person. I had the good fortune to get to meet her in person, where we talked about pyrography and small business for hours!

Her pyrography is BOLD! Her color choices alone speak for themselves. She has learned a thing or two in her years as a wood burning artist, and she is sharing her knowledge with us.

Do yourself a huge favor and follow this wonderful human and artist. Let’s help support her so she can make her dream of becoming a full time artist a reality!

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Guest blog post by Megan of @happicamperkc

Find Megan on Facebook - Instagram - Etsy

SUPPORT HAPPI CAMPER ON PATREON “We do, and her posts are always filled with knowledge, love, happiness, and COLOR!”

5 Common Myths When it Comes To Wood Burning

The art of wood burning has changed a lot in the past few decades, and with this change, many misconceptions have come along. I want to help clear things up and tell you the most common myths about this hot-n-trendy medium:

MYTH #1 : All wood is equal in pyrography.

Nope. Like way nope. To me, the best wood types for burning are: Basswood, aspen, Baltic birch. I would 1000% avoid pine and plywood. Each kind burns differently. And it is a preference thing. It's just pine is really difficult with the soft/hardness and plywood straight up has dangerous fumes due to the glue they use when in manufacturing.

MYTH #2 : Watercolor will make your wood crack every time.

Nah, the trick is: Less water. More patience. Also the thinner your pieces, the more likely they are to crack. As long as you're using 1/2" or thicker you will be fine using watercolors on wood art.

MYTH #3 : I can make art like yours with my plug-n-play burner my grandma gave me.

I get this one a lot with peeps who see my art on social media, and then maybe come to my burning classes. Unfortunately, no this is NOT the case. I use a professional-grade burner that gets up to 1000 degrees hotter than your 1986 wood burner pen.

To get those hot, hot burn lines like I do I recommend getting a Razertip, Colwood or Optima burner tool.

That's not to say you can't do amazing art with a Walnut Hollow Creative burner. Just check out Hippie North.

MYTH #4 : Wood burning smoke is no more harmful than a campfire.

Listen. You only get 2 lungs. And you freakin' need them. When I started burning in 2012, I thought the smokiness was no worse than camping. But if you're like me and you wood burn WEEKLY, safety MUST come first.

Use a fan to pull smoke away. Wear a charcoal lined mask. Open windows. If you don't regret it now. You'll regret it later.

MYTH #5 : It's easy.

Ha! It's not. People go into wood burning thinking that it's like moving a brush across canvas or pen on paper. Pyrography is a whole 'nother beast and it will take time for you to get a feel for how you want to burn.

Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

Wood burning is a safe hobby when you follow the guidelines and safety precautions.

Too many times I see artists not using a mask and burning their art without any proper ventilation. Although you may not see any side effects from doing this right away, you should be warned that there may be long term effects that can be avoided!! (Among lung and breathing issues, I have heard of people loosing parts of their vision due to prolonged periods of smoke exposure without proper safety gear).

SMOKE IS SMOKE. PERIOD.

It is not good for you to be breathing the fumes in! Or allowing them to go into your eyes and the rest of the house where others are breathing it too.

Please, please, please keep yourself and those around you safe by following the safety precautions set by the wood burning tool manufacturer. Click here to see how you can protect yourself and grab your free safety guide to print and hang on your wall if this helps to remind you to wear a mask.

DID YOU KNOW…

There are many different surfaces, other than wood, that you can burn on. The most common surface for pyrography is wood. But did you know that the materials you are burning on emit different toxins depending on what they are made of. Some are more toxic than others. So for instance, burning on dry, unfinished wood can be safe (with the proper gear) but not all raw wood emits the same toxins. There are wood species that are very dangerous for your health, even if you use all the safety precautions.

RESEARCH YOUR MATERIALS TO UNDERSTAND WHAT TOXIC CHEMICALS MAY BE PRESENT AND WHETHER THOSE CHEMICALS ARE RELEASED WHEN HEAT IS APPLIED.

Common wood types you should never burn on:

• Driftwood: Burning salt-saturated driftwood is a bad idea as it can release toxic or harmful chemicals when burned, according to the EPA.

• Green wood: This type of wood isn’t a species, it is the state of the wood. meaning it’s not completely dry. Once a tree is cut down, it needs to be seasoned for 6 to 9 months to become completely dry. Burning on this will create a lot of smoke and will take much longer, the process will be even slower than regular pyrography.

• Wet, rotted, diseased, or moldy wood

• Pressure treated wood, plywood, particle board, chipboard, wood pallets or any wood with glue on or in it: Do not burn on anything man-made. This includes wood that has been stained, sealed or treated with any kind of glues or oils (even if they are natural oils). if you mix your media (like I do with water marbling, adding paint on top or gold foil etc) make sure to wood burn first and then add other mediums.

• Craft store wood: Many stores sell wood for crafting with but the majority of the time those wood slices are intended to be embellished with paint, chalk or other mediums and are not meant for pyrography!

• Wood with "poison" in the name: Burning poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, or pretty much anything else with the word "poison" in it’s name releases the irritant oil urushiol into the smoke. Breathing it in can cause lung irritation and severe allergic respiratory problems, according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention.

• Exotic woods: Rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo. are exotic woods and many of them contain natural oils or toxins that can be hazardous when burned. They may cause allergic reactions or respiratory issues due to the chemicals naturally present in the wood.

• Manchineel Tree: Found in tropical regions, it produces sap that contains highly toxic compounds, such as phorbol esters. Even standing near the smoke from burning manchineel wood can cause severe reactions, including blistering skin, respiratory distress, and potential blindness.

• Oleander shrubs: These thrive in frost-free climates and every part of it is toxic. Definitely don’t burn it in any way - don’t even use a branch to toast your marshmallow on.

• The yew tree (Taxus baccata) and a related species common to gardeners, Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is known to be one of the most poisonous woody plants in the world, with all components of the tree, excepting the fleshy red part of the berry containing lethal amounts of taxine, a toxic alkaloid found in the yew.

• Mexican pepper: Also known as Brazilian pepper wood, it is similar to poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, the leaves and bark contain urushiol, a toxic oil that causes serious rashes and allergic reactions.

If you feel any dizziness or headaches coming on while burning, stop and assess your situation. Do some research. I like to use the wood-database.com for a quick look up and do a little more research if I don’t get enough information from there. If you are unsure, reach out to us and just ask.

Know what you are burning on before you burn and stay safe!

Check out our safety guide for overall health and safety suggestions!

And Check out Top Woods To Burn on or join The Burn Club Community for more Pyro Fun!

sources:

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/a20705861/kinds-of-wood-not-to-burn/

https://wooddad.com/what-wood-is-toxic-to-burn/

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/burning-oleander-produce-poisonous-smoke-75289.html

https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/best-wood-burning-practices

https://extension.psu.edu/toxicity-of-yew-wood-and-roots

https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2010-118/default.html

5 Easy DIY Wood Burned Project Ideas

Want to make your own personalized DIY gifts for a loved one?? Pyrography is such a versatile hobby, below are 5 very easy projects you can make yourself and personalize in any way!

New to wood burning?

Check out our blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Here you will learn all about the tools you need, wood you should be using, safety you should be following and tips and tricks to help you make your own DIY wood slice project ideas come to life!

1. Wood Burned Spoons

Practical, useful gifts are always a good choice! Choose wooden spoons, spatulas, or salad servers with a simple design, or customize it with their name or their favorite quote. You really can’t go wrong with this functional art piece. Remind your gift receiver to not wash wood in the dishwasher, or to leave it soaking in water. Oil it with a food-grade safe oil, and recommend that your recipient re-oil them as needed to keep them looking good! Check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

2. Fridge Magnets

These can make such a cute gift. Create a set to give, and customize them for each person. These are adorable, functional and pretty easy to execute!

Learn all the details on how to complete this project in this blog post: Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Give it a try!

3. Cutting Board

Another practical, useful and functional art gift! Wood burning is so versatile, and I love how everything can be customized. Turn a favorite photo of your loved one into functional art. Add their name to a cutting board, or their favorite food/plant/flower/animal/etc to a serving board. Make it special to them. Remind them to hand wash only and to use a food-grade safe cutting board oil and reapply as necessary (check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art).

I like to use Walnut Hollow as they have their boards sanded ultra smooth and offer a good variety in terms of wood tyoe, shape and size!

4. Name Sign or Welcome Sign

New house? New marriage? New Baby? Create a family name sign! These are always well received. I like to keep my design simple so it can fit with other people’s decor. You could also add color, their house, or a special date if you have that information. Customize it to them! Again, Walnut Hollow is a great choice for large wood rounds and planks with both live edge options for a rustic look and non live egde options for a more modern look!

5. Wood Burned Clock

This is such a gorgeous, unique and thoughtful gift. It adds a warmth to any space, and is not only beautiful, but quite helpful. To create this piece I used a drill, Clock Parts from Walnut Hollow and a slice of Basswood. I sized and printed the numbers in the font of my choosing to fit the canvas. I then transferred the design using graphite paper and an embossing tool, and then burned the numbers using a Versatool burner. Then I used the drill to poke a hole in the center and added the clock parts. I used a Basswood Country Round, but you could also use a Circular Wood Canvas. I did not put a finish my clock, because I want to be able to darken it over time, as need be.

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Click here to learn how to transfer your child’s artwork onto wood and wood burn it for a lasting and personalized gift!

For more gift ideas and things to make next with your wood burning tool, check out this blog post with over 150 ideas of what to burn next!

And if you are just getting started in your pyrography journey, head here.

You can also find more project ideas and a full how-to in The Wood Burn Book or get yourself one of the Wood Burn Community Book of Template books full of traceable templates you can practice pyrography with!

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Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

Sanding, like it or hate it, is a part of being a wood burning artist. Sanding your wood before and after you burn can make your entire piece and your burn lines crisper.

A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.

There are some things you can do to make the job a little easier on yourself. See the steps below to getting the perfect surface to burn on:

Prepare the workspace

Place the wood slice on a flat and stable surface that won't move during sanding. You may want to clamp it down to keep it steady.

SAFETY FIRST!

Make sure you are in a well ventilated space, have an air purifier if sharing the space and you are wearing proper safety equipment. Something to protect your eyes and your lungs. Do it every time. The last thing you want is for your art to cause you harm. Protect yourself!

My favourite mask to use for everything I do with pyrography is RZ Mask. The M2 model is my favourite because it fits with my top pun or pony tail but they have so many to choose from and in so many different colors... They all have activated carbon filters which are replaceable and the mesh mask shell and valves are washable and reusable. They are comfortable, breathable and are 99% efficient against particulates down to 0.1 microns in size.

Choose the right sandpaper

The type of sandpaper you use will depend on how rough the surface of the wood slice is. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and gradually move to a finer grit (120-150 grit) for a smoother finish.

I love THIS bundle from amazon. It comes with a variety if you want to try it out on the wood you have. Some woods need more TLC and others come already very smooth.

Understanding Grit:

In the US grit is determined based on a scale. When shopping for sandpaper, you’ll see numbers such as 80-grit, 100-grit, or 200-grit. Keep in mind:

• The higher the number, the smaller the grains and the finer the sandpaper grit.

• The lower numbers indicate larger grains and overall coarser sandpaper

Generally you want to start out with a lower grit (coarser sandpaper). This helps to get rid of any larger scuffs, scratch marks, bumps and/or irregularities. Then you will want to increase the grit and finish off with a finer, more gentle sandpaper to get that ultra smooth finish.

Always sand with the grain of the wood, not against

Sand your pieces before you do any wood burning to ensure clean and crisp lines. A smooth surface will be much easier to burn on, and will create a better result.

Begin sanding the wood slice using the coarse grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the grain and use a back-and-forth motion. Sand any rough spots until they are smooth.

Once you've sanded the rough spots with the coarse sandpaper, switch to a finer grit sandpaper. Continue sanding until the surface is smooth and free of any scratches.

Finish with the finest grit for the ultimate smoothness

For an extra-smooth finish, use the finest grit sandpaper (220 grit) to sand the surface once more at the end. This will remove any remaining scratches and leave the surface with a smooth texture.

Clean the surface

Wipe off any dust and debris from the wood slice with a clean microfiber cloth (an old dry toothbrush helps to get into the cracks if the cloth cannot). You can also use an air compressor to get rid of any dust. Be careful to not get too close to the bark on a live edge wood slice. The strong air may remove delicate bark pieces and can come off. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use a brush to sweep of the dust or, better yet, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to safely capture the dust.

Sanding Tools

Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!

In the video below, I used:

RZ Mask: RZ Mask rocks! My first mask was the M2 but i also like the M1 as it has the ear straps which fit nicely. They have loads of different styles and sizes to choose from!

Dewalt Oribit Sander

Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit and Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit (here is a good variety pack!)

Sanding after you wood burn a piece

Sanding a piece after you burn removes any tracing lines as well as “overburn.” (Overburn, as you can see here on the left) is when you have a browning coloration right next to your burn line on the surface). Sanding your piece after you burn it gives your piece crisper and finer lines.

Use a 200-grit or 220-grit sandpaper (the finer the better) and remember to be super gentle when sanding at this stage, especially if you don’t burn very deep.

If you have any shading or surface burn lines, they may come off, so really; go light and slow here.

Watch how I sand my wood slices before I burn on them!

more Fun tips and tricks

Sanding sponge versus sanding block:

Since sponges form to your hand, a block sand paper will allow you to put in less effort and ensures you are sanding flat and not creating any divots. Try wrapping a sandpaper sheet to a scrap wood if you don’t have a pre-made sanding block (use a tube or pvc pipe instead of a block for contoured wood pieces)

Sanding power tools:

These come in handy! Especially if you prefer to sand your pieces in “batch work” style, meaning you sand a whole bunch all at once. I recommend this, because it is a time saver. You only have to get dirty once, you only have to pull out the tools once, and clean up the mess once. Then you have a stack of ready to go canvases. It’s awesome.

How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat

If you want to learn all the ways we transfer designs to wood, check out The Wood Burn Book by Rachel Strauss.

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

top 3 ways to easily transfer an image onto wood

1.GRAPHITE

• Graphite Paper

• Washi Tape

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

***Note: you may come across carbon paper which looks the same and transfers the same. Carbon is much harder to get off of the wood after the transfer so stick to graphite when you can!

You can also get White Graphite

• Use the same technique for darker woods, like walnut. The darker the wood is, the better this method shows up!

PRO’s: You only need graphite paper, a design, tape and a pencil. Low cost, easy to use and does a great job transferring even detailed designs. Graphite paper can be reused numerous times, and your designs can be used again as well.

CON’s: Graphite doesn’t remove easily on wood, so you have to be really careful with the transferring (don’t press too hard). Accidental smudges can happen easily. Store graphite separately from wood to make sure they don’t rub together. If you do get any smudges or leftover graphite, there is a chance you can save it by giving it a gentle sand with a 180 to 220 grit sandpaper (a finer grit sandpaper). Here are some other ways to remove leftover lines from transferring or drawing your design.

How to transfer using graphite:

1. After you’ve chosen a design and sized it to your sanded down wood slice; line it up and secure it using tape.

2. Slide the graphite paper, dark side facing the wood, underneath the design.

3. Take your pencil/pen/embossing tool and follow your design lines using light-medium pressure. Ensure you follow the design lines as closely as possible.

4. Check on the progress of your design, but do not move around or remove the design until you check to make sure it has completely transferred.

This video below features a Woodland Snail Template by Maria Johnson maple & Fern Co. from The Community Book of Templates, Volume 2. I used transfer paper to omit having to cut up the book or print anything and just traced it right off of the page!

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2. BLUE CHACO PAPER

• Blue Chaco (there are many different colors to choose from, blue is the darkest)

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

PRO’s: Transfers easily like graphite paper, easily removes with damp cloth. Doesn’t stain/scar wood. Can be removed entirely.

CON’s: Be careful not to use too much water. It rubs off really easily, so it is not great for long-term use or too much detail as it can rub off with your hand. Also, since it blue in colour, it’s little harder to see on the wood if your wood is light.

This is a special paper with blue chalk on it. It transfers much like graphite paper, but erases with just a damp cloth.

How to transfer using ChACO paper:

1. Tape your design onto your wood, face up.

2. Slide the blue Chaco paper underneath with the blue side facing the wood.

3. Follow your design lines using an embossing tool or a ballpoint pen.

4. Check on progress of transfer, and remove design and chaco paper when everything has transferred Can be used for woodburning.

5. After wood burning is complete, you can remove the excess chaco markings with a damp cloth.

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3. Pencil on Paper

We like to use the Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack) or Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack) but any pencil will do; the softer the lead, the better (ie. 10B is better to use versus a 2B or any H’s)

PRO’s: It doesn’t require any fancy tools. It works well, and makes for a nice transfer. Works well for fonts and most designs.

CON’s: Time consuming, messy and can have some missing spots. Not great for really fine detailed pieces.

1. Take your design and flip it over

2. Blacken/shade the entire backside of your design with an extra-soft pencil, or any line that you will want transferred. Go past the lines on either side, to give yourself some wiggle room when you do the actual transfer.

3. Flip it back over, with the blackened side down, and carefully place and secure it to the wood slice. You don’t want to rub or move it around too much, because it will rub onto the wood.

4. Take your pen/pencil/embossing tool and go over the design with a light to medium pressure. Follow your lines as closely as possible. The more precise your transfer, the better your design will look.

5. Ensure you have completed the transfer before removing the design.

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Click Here to see the instructions on how to transfer your image using heat.

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A Brief History of Pyrography

Pyrography is one of the oldest human art forms. As long as humans have been taming fire, they have been drawing with it. It used to be called “pokerwork” before the term pyrography came to be.

Pyrography has a long and varied history.

In a nutshell: It is thought to have originated in Egypt, where it was used to decorate pottery and furniture. The practice then spread to Europe, where it was used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, and other items. In the 19th century, the art form saw a resurgence in popularity and was used to decorate a variety of items. In modern times, pyrography has become a popular art form and is used to create detailed and intricate designs. Today, pyrography is used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, kitchenware, and more.

Antique Circa 1890 Flemish Art Co. Pyrography Maiden Wood Wall Hanging Plaque

The history of pyrography: Wikipedia tells us that the process has been practiced by a number of cultures including the Egyptians and some African tribes since the dawn of recorded history. Pyrographer Robert Boyer hypothesizes that the art form dates back to prehistory when early humans created designs using the charred remains of their fires.

Pyrography artists in the middle ages used newly invented portable wood stoves as a heat source. These stoves had small holes in their lids for pokers to be placed through. The pokers rested in the holes and heated over the coals of the stove until they were hot enough to use. Artists would carry several pokers (needles and knives were also used) with them at all times so they could continue working while other pokers heated.

It was known in China from the time of the Han dynasty, where it was known as "Fire Needle Embroidery". During the Victorian era, the invention of pyrography machines sparked a widespread interest in the craft, and it was at this time that the term "pyrography" was coined (previously the name "pokerwork" had been most widely used).

The term, pyrography, means "writing with fire", from the Greek pur (fire) and graphos (writing). It can be practiced using specialized modern pyrography tools, or using a metal implement heated in a fire, or even sunlight concentrated with a magnifying lens.

Surviving examples of Western European pyrography from the 15th and 16th centuries include decorative designs on musical instruments such as the Trinity and Queen Mary harps and richly ornamented chests, coffers and panels from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Queen Mary harp currently resides in Scotland and the Trinity harp in Ireland. The pyrographic designs are faint and the pigments faded.

According to SophieNBurg, museum and archives, A mechanical tool was invented around 1900 that made the creation of pyrography art easier. In the early 20th century, the development of the electric pyrographic hot wire wood etching machine further automated the pokerwork process.

The craft of pyrography enjoyed a surge of popularity in the United States from the 1880s to the 1920s. Housewives and young adults were encouraged to keep their hands busy and make small craft projects to beautify their homes. Books and magazines published designs and patterns. Kits were available through mail-order catalogues like Sears, Roebuck & Co. and Montgomery-Ward. Pyrography is a traditional folk art in many parts of Europe, including Romania, Poland, Hungary, and Flanders, as well as Argentina and other areas in South America.

It has been gaining traction and becoming more mainstream these past couple of years, and that is all thanks to the incredibly relaxing qualities that pyrography naturally has and you all! Keep spreading the word about the wonderful world of Pyrography!

New to pyrography?

Check out this blog post:

Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Transferring and Burning Your Children's Artwork

Parents are always looking for a way to preserve their children's art. I personally think woodburning is the best way to do that. It's a great keepsake, it makes for a great personalized gift, and it's so much fun to do with kids.

Kids of all ages can participate in this collaboration. You could use a tracing of a babies hand or foot print you can use the scribbles of a toddler or the self portrait of an eight-year-old. You can use original art drawn directly on the wood piece itself or transfer a treasured drawing that the child has already created.

These techniques also work for lettering, hand written recipes, love notes, you name it! Pyrography is such a great way to preserve those memories.

Let's talk about supplies. You don't need many supplies or expensive equipment in order to create a beautiful piece of art that you can cherish forever.

What you will need:

• A drawing or design

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

Instructions:

Step 1.

Choose your design or have your child draw the design directly onto the piece of wood. Make sure that your wood is sanded smooth, clean, dried, and unfinished.

Check out this blog post on: Prepping Wood Surfaces for Wood Burning.

Step 2.

Place your design on your wood (make sure it is right where you want it) and tape down on one side (two if it's a large design). Make sure it can’t wigggle around.

Step 3.

Slide your graphite paper with the black/darker side facing the wood underneath your design.

Step 4.

Use your embossing tool or a pencil to trace your design using light to medium pressure. Test out a small line and peek under the design without moving it to ensure you can see it and that it not too dark, otherwise it is hard to get off.

Do not move around the design once you started transferring. I like to lift it from time to time to ensure it looks good, but I do so with great care in keeping it in the exact same spot.

The more accurate you are with the transfer, the better your burn will be.

Make sure you transferred everything before you remove your design and graphite paper.

Step 5.

Ensure you are in a well ventilated space, and don any safety equipment. Check out my FREE Safety guide here. Do remind children of the dangers of a hot tool.

Warm up your burner, and get started. Some children may be old enough to do the burning with adult supervision. Kids and adults, no matter the age, will get a kick out of watching the wood burn take shape, just do it safely.

Step 6.

Carefully wood burn the art by simply following your transferred lines. Go slowly. Let the burner do the work. Glide along the surface. When you're finish you can remove any remaining graphite lines with a quick sand with some sandpaper or a Tombow sand eraser.

For more tricks and tips, check out: The Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide

Step 7.

Optional, add a finish or let the child artist finish off their masterpiece with some watercolor or markers. Check out this blog post on adding watercolor to wood for tricks and tips or Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography for even more ideas!

Step 8.

Add a picture hanger to the back and hang it on your wall to enjoy for years to come.

Be sure to share about your project with your kiddo or the finished masterpiece on instagram and/or Pinterest and tag us @woodburncorner. We would love to see it! You can also find this full project and others in The Wood Burn Book.

Want to watch a video of this process instead?

Click Here to watch the process of me burning my children’s artwork for a Micheal’s class.

Favorite Odd Tools for Woodburning

These are some of our favourite tools to have nearby when creating pyrography projects of any kind. These are tools that are not necessarily essential, but sure feel essential to me. They make the task at hand easier, faster or simply just more convenient.

Tombow Sand Eraser

This is THE BEST tool that I have found to get rid of unwanted graphite markings. I first discovered this when I saw an ink artist using the eraser, and saw that it was called a “sand eraser,” so I wondered if it would work on wood, and it did! Now I see this eraser being using widely amongst pyros, and it makes me so happy I decided to experiment that day.

Watercolor Water Pens

This saves so much time with watercolor/gouache/acrylic. Instead of having to dip back in water, the water is held in the pen. It’s brilliant!!! It’s easy to adjust the amount of water too which is key to painting on wood. Too much water can split it… Always remember to burn first, and then add your color. CLICK HERE for more water-colour on wood tips.

Brass Brush

This is my go-to, must-have tool next to me while I burn. I use it to quickly and gently scrape away any char on my nib so I can keep a nice smooth burn. Some artists may think this is too harsh for their nibs, but I have had zero issues with scratching/damaging nibs with this technique. Look for something with softer bristles. Giving it a quick scrape keeps my lines clean and smooth. Highly recommend. CLICK HERE to learn more about maintaining and cleaning your tools.

Blue Chaco Paper

This stuff is a great alternative to graphite paper, and only requires a little damp cloth to wipe away. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it, and can be used over and over again just like graphite paper. You transfer it in the exact same way you do for a transfer or graphite paper, but any unwanted lines can be removed so much easier. (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat).

Metal Ruler

Metal is key here, because you can use it to burn straight lines by cozying your burner right up next to the edge of the ruler. If you were to use plastic, you’d melt it, so be sure it is a metal ruler. It works really well to create nice straight lines, just be sure to hold it firmly in place and keep your fingers out of the way. Do not hold the ruler near where you are burning!

Pen Razor Blade

This is like having a magic eraser. Any over burned areas, or little mistakes you can gently chip them away with a razor blade and no one will ever know. Be careful though. Once. you chip it away, you won’t have a flat texture to burn on and the spot may be noticeable, especially if you go deep. Try gently scraping it first. On the other hand, getting the inverted texture is something you are looking for: it is great for creating fine hairs in detailed photorealistic pieces after you’ve burned it.

Needle Nose Pliers

This is so I can carefully change nibs while they are still warm. If you are impatient, like me, I suggest having a pair of these at the ready when you are burning. Also have a ceramic dish or glass jar/bowl to catch those hot nibs to go along with it. This is obviously not necessary, because you can always wait for your burner to cool before changing nibs by hand.

ceramic ring dish

This is where I ditch my hot nibs/tips when changing them out mid-burn. A glass or metal dish would work as well.

Sand Paper Pens or a tiny sanding stick

These sand paper pens/sticks are also great for those finer details, and little mistakes. No matter how good of a job I did on the burn, I can always tidy it up a bit with one of these bad boys. It only takes a little bit of time, but they clean up any piece to give it that polished look.

Wooden ball stylus dotting tool

I use this for transferring designs to wood (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat). It allows me to use the same design over and over again.

Camera Holder (small and Large)

This is so I can film and photograph while I burn hands-free. It is much safer and creates better quality content.

I have one small holder that I attach to my desk for close ups. This is one I also take around with me because it is super portable and very very sturdy.

The larger one lives on my desk!

If you are a pyrographer that utilizes social media for marketing, then I can not recommend this enough. Hit that record button each time you sit down, and you will find yourself with so much great content that you can use.

What are your favorite odd tools for wood burning?

Check out this blog post for learning how to take care of all your wood burning tools.

Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool

Tool care and cleaning is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.

Caring for a pyrography machine ensures its longevity and consistent performance.

If you are in the market to buy, but don’t know what to choose, check out this blog post: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Below are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape.

We include products with Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools. We only recommend what we know and love.

For general wood burner (machine)care:

• Make sure your burner has good air flow.

• Make sure it is free of dust and dirt. Do not use harsh chemicals or water to clean the machine, as this can damage its components: Wipe the machine and pen with a soft, dry cloth instead.

• Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time and avoids damaging internal components.

• Avoid pulling or yanking the cords; instead, unplug it gently.

• Follow manufacturer instructions: Refer to the user manual for specific care recommendations for your pyrography machine.

When traveling or Storing: take care to pack your burner well.

• Keep the machine in a cool, dry place, away from moisture or extreme temperatures.

• Do not to bend any of the cords with force or pressure or excessively. This will cause the wires to break or become weak inside the palstic. You usually can’t see this happeneing but it does, especially with lots of bending.

• Store the pen with its tip detached or in a protective case to prevent damage. Usually the pens come in individual cases… Keep these for travel or storage. I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!

nib care:

• Ensure the tips or nibs you use are compatible with your machine.

• Handle tips with care, as bending or forcing them can damage the connectors. This goes for when in use and storing them!
  

Nib Cleaning:

You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.

My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my nip/tip/pen a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy” or I see char build-up.

Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.

These are other ways that you can clean them.

These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.

Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.

Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.

Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.

Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.

In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!

Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography

Adding mixed media elements to a wood burned piece is so much fun. The options are literally endless.

The image here is wood burned first, then holes were drilled, and then I used thread to create patterns that mimic the wood burned patterns! Imagine this with other rope materials (such as iridescent thread or simple twine…)

Have fun with it and think outside the box!

One thing you want to keep in mind is that you should almost always do your pyrography first, then add your mixed media. It is not safe to burn on unnatural surfaces. Grab your Pyrography Safety Guide to stay safe while burning!

Here are a couple fun Mixed media on wood ideas to get your juices flowing.....

• Dried Flowers

• Artificial Flowers

• Watercolor (click for a blog post for tips on how to add watercolor to wood)

• Shelves

• Chalkboard paint

• Hooks

• Mirrors

• Stickers

• Photographs

• Lights

• Macrame

• Gemstones

• Numbers

Gold Leaf on Wood

Pencil Crayon on Wood

• Plants

• Embroidery

• Gold Leaf (like in the image above, this medium is thinner and gives a lot of texture)

• Deco foil (this adds a metallic touch but is a solid gold finish as it is thicker than gold foil)

• Glitter

• Sand

• Shells

• Beads

• Sparkly Glue

• Pencil Crayons

• Water Marbling (Click to be taken to finelinepyro.ca and learn more about this medium)

Ebru Painting/Water Marbling on Wood

The options are endless so have fun experimenting with all different mediums! If you’ve tried one that is not on this list, leave a comment below!

Get more Inspiration for mixed media on wood

Follow along a variety of projects using mixed media in The Wood Burn Book to see other projects you can make on wood.

For some inspiration, follow my Pinterest board to see all sorts of different mediums you can apply to wood!

How to have fun with loose watercolor and pyrography

What you need: Get all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

Below are to all the products we used (some are Amazon affiliate links):

• Small Basswood Country Round

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point (use the code WBC15 for 15% off!).

• Graphite Paper

• Sand Paper

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Washi Tape

• Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool

• Watercolor

• Paintbrush

• Finish

I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:

Creative Woodburner - 4 new nibs and how to use them

The Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow is a wire-tipped burner that comes with four interchangeable points/nibs.

Walnut Hollow just created four new nibs that work with this burner, and in this video I show them to you.

The 4 new nibs or points (Stamping Point 1, Drawing Point 2, Spoon Shading Point 1 and Spoon Shading Point 2) are now available for the Creative Woodburner. This is how each of the nibs can be used.

You can purchase these individually at walnuthollow.com

To see the Creative Woodburner’s original set of 4 nibs that come with the burner, check out this blog post!

How to get your kids involved in pyrography

My kids are always so excited to see what I am making. They watch the process, they see the finished results, and they cheer me on, which is why getting them involved is so much fun. Collaborating with them to create a unique piece gives them such pride. You can use a design they have already drawn, or have them create something new.

I like to do the burning while they watch, and then have them finish it off with markers, colored pencils or watercolor.

This makes an amazing gift for a grandparent, spouse, or loved one. It is also a great class option if you teach, especially around Mothers/Father’s Day.

What you will need:

• A drawing or design

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

Watch the FREE video below or click here for written step-by-step instructions!

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Canvas is another amazing non-wood surface to embellish with pyrography. You will find canvas material in many different forms and adding wood burned touches to any of these canvas materials will add that personalized touch that will step up your canvas game. It is a bit smelly to burn, and you will need to clean your wood burning tool often, but it will look cool and be totally worth it. Be sure to utilize your safety equipment. You and those around you won’t want to be inhaling the fumes from burning on canvas, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated space and have fun with it!

Materials

• Canvas backback

• Water-soluble fabric pen

• Damp sponge

• Safety Equipment

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

Step 1: Choose your canvas backpack. Wash and dry before getting started.

Step 2: Lay your backpack flat on your table.

Step 3: With your water soluble pen, draw lines of varying lengths and arches from the bottom of the pack going up. These can be close together or spread apart, depending on how you envision the end result.

Step 4: Add lines of varying lengths to the right and left sides on these initial lines. Mix up the spacing between the lines to add interest.

Step 5: Put on safety gear. Canvas can be quite smelly, you don’t want to be breathing the fumes. An outdoor environment with plenty of air flow would be best.

Step 6: Turn on your wood burning tool. The temperature will depend on how quickly you would like to burn. The lower the temperature, the more controlled the burn. Start lower and turn up the temperature as needed. Using a spade or writing nib, burn by tracing over all of your drawn lines with the wood burning tool.

Step 7: Once you’ve traced all the lines, turn off your burning tool and carefully switch to a flow nib, preferably a ball-point. Reheat the burner and start adding the dots to the ends of your lines. To make a dot, simply hold the burner in place briefly. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you can burn a hole in your pack. Add burned dot ends until all lines are topped off with them.

Step 8: Rinse off your burned backpack or use a sponge and some water to carefully remove all water-soluble pen lines. Set out to dry.

Step 9: Wear your bag proudly, and enjoy the compliments.

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn More

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Make Your Own Poppy Wall Art

Watercolor is one of my favorite mediums to add to wood. It is quite liberating to add watercolor in this unique and loose way. You can take any simple line drawing and quickly turn it into a beautiful piece of art that will add vibrancy and warmth to any space. You can create a dramatic and playful effect by adding these fun and perfectly imperfect splashes of watercolor. Those splashes of bright color change the whole look of the piece, and really bring it to life.

I chose the California poppy for this particular piece for its bright colors and because I am absolutely obsessed with them. They pop up everywhere, are super vibrant, and just make me happy.

Materials

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Sand Paper Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Watercolors

• Safety Equipment (click here for the free safety guide)

• Plate or Palette

• Water Cup

• Paper Towels

• Sawtooth Picture Hanger

Step 1: Choose any simple line-drawn floral design. This can be a hand drawn doodle, a drawing from a photograph, or a design in this book. Then choose a wood slice to fit the design.

Step 2: Transfer the design to the wood. I am using graphite paper and a slice of basswood with a live edge. Make sure you have transferred the entire design before removing the design.

Step 3: Choose your nib and burn. For this particular piece I like to use a flow or writing nib. This gives me the freedom to burn smoothly in all directions, without catching an edge of the nib.

Step 4: Remove any remaining transfer lines after the design has been burned in its entirety.

Step 5: Pull out your watercolors, palette, water glass, paper towels, and paintbrushes.

Step 6: Color the flower fully, or at least the parts you want colored. Don’t use too much water or you may split your wood. It’s OK if you go over the lines on this particular piece - you actually should! A loose watercolor look is what we are going for. This technique gives the feeling that the flower is extending past the lines you have given it.

Step 7: Add the splashes of paint once you have completed the coloring of the flower. Practice on a scrap piece of paper or on the backside of your piece first. Dip into the same color, hold your brush close to the wood, pull back on the bristles and let them go. This will create a splashed look. You can go heavy on the splashes, or very subtle, it is entirely up to you.

Step 8: Wait for the piece to dry, then attach a sawtooth picture hanger to the back

Step 9: Complete your piece with a finish of your choosing. I prefer a spray finish over watercolors, so as to not unintentionally spread the paint on the wood.

Step 10: Hang it on your wall, or wrap it up and give it as a gift!

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished piece on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Gel pens are great for using on wood burned projects because they are easily accessible, not messy, come in so many colors, metallics and neons, and are easy to apply to small areas. These fun little gel pen magnets are just so perfect for the adorable designs by Jess from @jeshypark.

These magnets are both useful and whimsical, and who doesn’t love that?! They are super simple to make but will surely add character to any refrigerator.

Materials

• Tiny Wood Slices (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• A drawing or design (or you can draw it by hand)

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or Gel Pens other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

• Magnets

• E6000 Glue

• Cotton Swabs

Step 1. Choose your designs, size them, print them.

Step 2. Sand your tiny wood slices smooth. I am using mini birch slices. Basswood is also a popular wood choice.

Step 3. Cut and place the designs on the wood slices.

Step 4: Choose a transfer method. A variety of these are discussed in the book. I suggest a graphite, blue Chaco, or pencil on paper methods. Here I am using the pencil on paper method.

Step 5: Tape your tiny wood pieces to a larger wood slice from the backside.

Taping them down will hold them in place and allow you to easily turn them while you transfer and burn without worrying about getting burned. I learned this trick from @northstar_pyrogrpahy.

Step 6: Transfer the design. Remember, the more accurate the transfer, the cleaner the burn will be

Step 7: Warm up your burner with your nib of choice securely attached. 

* Be sure to TAKE YOUR HEALTH & SAFETY SERIOUSLY. Check out the Safety Blog outlining all the steps you can take to burn safely, download your FREE safety guide and always follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer.

Test your temperature on the back of one of your wood slices or a scrap piece of the same type of wood before getting started.

Step 8: Follow your transfer lines. Go slowly and be careful. Keep your fingers out of the way.

Consider using a different wood slice or object of equal thickness as a working surface on which to rest your hand.

This will allow you to burn more carefully and precisely with a steadier hand, which is especially important when working on something small.

Step 9: Remove any remaining transfer markings.

Step 10: Embellish your tiny wood burned designs with gel pens. There is no wrong way to do it, and I encourage you to go for it! Use metallic, neon, or monochrome colors. Color the whole thing, or just add accents. It is completely up to you!

Step 11: Once you are happy with the look, add a finish to keep them looking great for a long time. Allow to fully dry.

Step 12: Pull out magnets, E6000 glue, and cotton swabs. Flip the tiny burned slices over so the backside is facing up.

Step 13: Get a good amount of E6000 glue on the cotton swab and rub it on one side of a magnet.

Quickly place and slightly squish the magnet onto the backside of the wood burned piece.

Check on them after a few minutes to re-center any of the magnets which may have shifted position. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

*Be sure to work in a well-ventilated space because the glue can be quite stinky, and follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer

Step 14: Once dry, your adorable handmade magnets are ready for use!

Show off your work!

I cant wait to see how you take these designs and add your own twist! Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

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