How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat

If you want to learn all the ways we transfer designs to wood, check out The Wood Burn Book by Rachel Strauss.

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

top 3 ways to easily transfer an image onto wood

1.GRAPHITE

• Graphite Paper

• Washi Tape

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

***Note: you may come across carbon paper which looks the same and transfers the same. Carbon is much harder to get off of the wood after the transfer so stick to graphite when you can!

You can also get White Graphite

• Use the same technique for darker woods, like walnut. The darker the wood is, the better this method shows up!

PRO’s: You only need graphite paper, a design, tape and a pencil. Low cost, easy to use and does a great job transferring even detailed designs. Graphite paper can be reused numerous times, and your designs can be used again as well.

CON’s: Graphite doesn’t remove easily on wood, so you have to be really careful with the transferring (don’t press too hard). Accidental smudges can happen easily. Store graphite separately from wood to make sure they don’t rub together. If you do get any smudges or leftover graphite, there is a chance you can save it by giving it a gentle sand with a 180 to 220 grit sandpaper (a finer grit sandpaper). Here are some other ways to remove leftover lines from transferring or drawing your design.

How to transfer using graphite:

1. After you’ve chosen a design and sized it to your sanded down wood slice; line it up and secure it using tape.

2. Slide the graphite paper, dark side facing the wood, underneath the design.

3. Take your pencil/pen/embossing tool and follow your design lines using light-medium pressure. Ensure you follow the design lines as closely as possible.

4. Check on the progress of your design, but do not move around or remove the design until you check to make sure it has completely transferred.

This video below features a Woodland Snail Template by Maria Johnson maple & Fern Co. from The Community Book of Templates, Volume 2. I used transfer paper to omit having to cut up the book or print anything and just traced it right off of the page!

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2. BLUE CHACO PAPER

• Blue Chaco (there are many different colors to choose from, blue is the darkest)

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

PRO’s: Transfers easily like graphite paper, easily removes with damp cloth. Doesn’t stain/scar wood. Can be removed entirely.

CON’s: Be careful not to use too much water. It rubs off really easily, so it is not great for long-term use or too much detail as it can rub off with your hand. Also, since it blue in colour, it’s little harder to see on the wood if your wood is light.

This is a special paper with blue chalk on it. It transfers much like graphite paper, but erases with just a damp cloth.

How to transfer using ChACO paper:

1. Tape your design onto your wood, face up.

2. Slide the blue Chaco paper underneath with the blue side facing the wood.

3. Follow your design lines using an embossing tool or a ballpoint pen.

4. Check on progress of transfer, and remove design and chaco paper when everything has transferred Can be used for woodburning.

5. After wood burning is complete, you can remove the excess chaco markings with a damp cloth.

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3. Pencil on Paper

We like to use the Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack) or Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack) but any pencil will do; the softer the lead, the better (ie. 10B is better to use versus a 2B or any H’s)

PRO’s: It doesn’t require any fancy tools. It works well, and makes for a nice transfer. Works well for fonts and most designs.

CON’s: Time consuming, messy and can have some missing spots. Not great for really fine detailed pieces.

1. Take your design and flip it over

2. Blacken/shade the entire backside of your design with an extra-soft pencil, or any line that you will want transferred. Go past the lines on either side, to give yourself some wiggle room when you do the actual transfer.

3. Flip it back over, with the blackened side down, and carefully place and secure it to the wood slice. You don’t want to rub or move it around too much, because it will rub onto the wood.

4. Take your pen/pencil/embossing tool and go over the design with a light to medium pressure. Follow your lines as closely as possible. The more precise your transfer, the better your design will look.

5. Ensure you have completed the transfer before removing the design.

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Click Here to see the instructions on how to transfer your image using heat.

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Favorite Odd Tools for Woodburning

These are some of our favourite tools to have nearby when creating pyrography projects of any kind. These are tools that are not necessarily essential, but sure feel essential to me. They make the task at hand easier, faster or simply just more convenient.

Tombow Sand Eraser

This is THE BEST tool that I have found to get rid of unwanted graphite markings. I first discovered this when I saw an ink artist using the eraser, and saw that it was called a “sand eraser,” so I wondered if it would work on wood, and it did! Now I see this eraser being using widely amongst pyros, and it makes me so happy I decided to experiment that day.

Watercolor Water Pens

This saves so much time with watercolor/gouache/acrylic. Instead of having to dip back in water, the water is held in the pen. It’s brilliant!!! It’s easy to adjust the amount of water too which is key to painting on wood. Too much water can split it… Always remember to burn first, and then add your color. CLICK HERE for more water-colour on wood tips.

Brass Brush

This is my go-to, must-have tool next to me while I burn. I use it to quickly and gently scrape away any char on my nib so I can keep a nice smooth burn. Some artists may think this is too harsh for their nibs, but I have had zero issues with scratching/damaging nibs with this technique. Look for something with softer bristles. Giving it a quick scrape keeps my lines clean and smooth. Highly recommend. CLICK HERE to learn more about maintaining and cleaning your tools.

Blue Chaco Paper

This stuff is a great alternative to graphite paper, and only requires a little damp cloth to wipe away. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it, and can be used over and over again just like graphite paper. You transfer it in the exact same way you do for a transfer or graphite paper, but any unwanted lines can be removed so much easier. (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat).

Metal Ruler

Metal is key here, because you can use it to burn straight lines by cozying your burner right up next to the edge of the ruler. If you were to use plastic, you’d melt it, so be sure it is a metal ruler. It works really well to create nice straight lines, just be sure to hold it firmly in place and keep your fingers out of the way. Do not hold the ruler near where you are burning!

Pen Razor Blade

This is like having a magic eraser. Any over burned areas, or little mistakes you can gently chip them away with a razor blade and no one will ever know. Be careful though. Once. you chip it away, you won’t have a flat texture to burn on and the spot may be noticeable, especially if you go deep. Try gently scraping it first. On the other hand, getting the inverted texture is something you are looking for: it is great for creating fine hairs in detailed photorealistic pieces after you’ve burned it.

Needle Nose Pliers

This is so I can carefully change nibs while they are still warm. If you are impatient, like me, I suggest having a pair of these at the ready when you are burning. Also have a ceramic dish or glass jar/bowl to catch those hot nibs to go along with it. This is obviously not necessary, because you can always wait for your burner to cool before changing nibs by hand.

ceramic ring dish

This is where I ditch my hot nibs/tips when changing them out mid-burn. A glass or metal dish would work as well.

Sand Paper Pens or a tiny sanding stick

These sand paper pens/sticks are also great for those finer details, and little mistakes. No matter how good of a job I did on the burn, I can always tidy it up a bit with one of these bad boys. It only takes a little bit of time, but they clean up any piece to give it that polished look.

Wooden ball stylus dotting tool

I use this for transferring designs to wood (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat). It allows me to use the same design over and over again.

Camera Holder (small and Large)

This is so I can film and photograph while I burn hands-free. It is much safer and creates better quality content.

I have one small holder that I attach to my desk for close ups. This is one I also take around with me because it is super portable and very very sturdy.

The larger one lives on my desk!

If you are a pyrographer that utilizes social media for marketing, then I can not recommend this enough. Hit that record button each time you sit down, and you will find yourself with so much great content that you can use.

What are your favorite odd tools for wood burning?

Check out this blog post for learning how to take care of all your wood burning tools.

Free Poppy Pattern for Wood Burning

This is a pattern that has a whole lot of meaning for me, and I am happy to share it with the world. The template, and complete instructions can be found in my book, The Wood Burn Book. You can also find the beginner class that I did for Michael’s using this design here, or check out this blog post on adding loose watercolor to wood using this poppy pattern as well! You also might recognize part of it from the #burntmay prompts as well. I have been able to take this one design and use it in so many different ways.

Poppies are my favorite flower. I love them. Their extreme orange color can’t be ignored, and I love that about them. They are hardy, and can grow just about anywhere, here in my home state of California. You will find them thriving in cracks in the sidewalk. It’s the coolest.

I grow them in my backyard. I have a poppy tattoo. I pop poppy top “hats” as we call them whenever I find a patch of poppies. I’ve trained my kids to do the same. I once cried over seeing poppies while heavily pregnant. I tried growing them while living in Boston 3 years in a row, and only ever saw one flower. I have always been fearful of picking them because they are the state flower of California, and schoolyard rumor had it that if you picked it you could go to jail. gasp I would never! I would stare at them through the fence of my elementary school field instead. I own 15-20 different pieces of poppy art in my home. I just think they are are magnificent, mysterious, bold, and unique.

This design has become one that I have used for teaching, for community building, in my book, and in my home.

Go check out the amazing pieces created by Burn Club+ community members with this design for the #bcpluschallenge on Instagram. Or check out the #thewoodburnbook to see other artist’s re-ceations. Sharing this design, and my love of poppies with the world has been awesome, and I can’t wait to see where my 4 poppies will take me, and you!

What can you make using this design? Post using #thewoodburnbook on your favorite platform, and tag @woodburncorner so I can see your take on it.

Not sure how to get these poppies onto your wood?

Check out the instructions on how to heat transfer an image onto your wood slice or how to transfer without having to use heat!

If you like this poppy template, you may be interested in how the radial symmetry poppy! Using my poppy template, Basia has created a mandala version. Check it out here. This is also a freebie you can download.

For more great templates to practice your pyrography skills with, check out The Wood Burn Commuity Book of Templates

Focus Five - The 5 Things That Describe Your Business

Find your focus, change the game

You and your business NEED focus in order to be able to help guide your day-to-day decisions and give you clarity. Narrowing down what you want your business to be will help you focus your efforts.

Let's get your message and your focus super clear.

Here are some things to think about when doing this exercise to help narrow in on the focus areas of your business:

• What do you want your business to say?

• What do you want portrayed?

• Why are you doing this business?

• What do you want to get out of it?

• What do you want to give to your following?

• What is important to you?

• Why is it important to you?

• Do you have a message you want to send? Or something you want to bring awareness to?

• Is there something you want to show your support of? Or speak out against?

• Are you trying to make money?

• If you could tell your followers just one thing, what would you tell them? What if you could tell them 5 things?

• Why do you do what you do?

Little Reminders:

• Limit it to about 5 things, so you can give those 5 things the time, attention, and focus they deserve. Fewer is also fine, but aim for 5.

• This is YOUR platform, this is YOUR business. YOU get to choose what it is, and what it isn’t!

• The truer and more honest you are to yourself, the more you will attract the audience of your dreams and have a greater impact on them. The things that make you and your business uniquely you will be the thing that draws in your people. Let your vibe attract your tribe. Be authentic.

• It doesn’t have to be set in stone! Done is better than perfect. You can ALWAYS change your 5 things as your business changes.

• Some of your areas of focus will present themselves to you easily, and some may come after a rearranging of priorities, or after you do the 5 year-to-1 year exercise. Pause and re-evaluate every quarter or at least yearly.

• Tape it up somewhere. It is good to be reminded often where your priorities lie, DAILY! Or better yet, write them daily. You can even make a digital image and turn it into your home screen on your phone, iPad or laptop.

Here is an example of my Focus 5:
Wood Burn Corner

1. Teaching

2. Collaboration with Artists and Companies

3. Building Community & Supporting Other Makers

4. Giving Back

5. Creating and Sharing Beautiful Art

All of the decisions you make, all of the pieces you make, all of the posts you write, all the things you do when it comes to your business should involve one or more of these categories.

This will help give you and your business consistency across the board and will help give you a framework to work around.

Pausing to take the time to figure out what you are about in the big picture will ensure your business is exactly what you want it to be.

Make it clear for you, and clear for your audience.

Exercise: Write your Focus Five. Take your time, but don't fret about it, because you can always adjust it.

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How to have fun with loose watercolor and pyrography

What you need: Get all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

Below are to all the products we used (some are Amazon affiliate links):

• Small Basswood Country Round

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point (use the code WBC15 for 15% off!).

• Graphite Paper

• Sand Paper

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Washi Tape

• Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool

• Watercolor

• Paintbrush

• Finish

I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:

Creative Woodburner - 4 new nibs and how to use them

The Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow is a wire-tipped burner that comes with four interchangeable points/nibs.

Walnut Hollow just created four new nibs that work with this burner, and in this video I show them to you.

The 4 new nibs or points (Stamping Point 1, Drawing Point 2, Spoon Shading Point 1 and Spoon Shading Point 2) are now available for the Creative Woodburner. This is how each of the nibs can be used.

You can purchase these individually at walnuthollow.com

To see the Creative Woodburner’s original set of 4 nibs that come with the burner, check out this blog post!

How to get your kids involved in pyrography

My kids are always so excited to see what I am making. They watch the process, they see the finished results, and they cheer me on, which is why getting them involved is so much fun. Collaborating with them to create a unique piece gives them such pride. You can use a design they have already drawn, or have them create something new.

I like to do the burning while they watch, and then have them finish it off with markers, colored pencils or watercolor.

This makes an amazing gift for a grandparent, spouse, or loved one. It is also a great class option if you teach, especially around Mothers/Father’s Day.

What you will need:

• A drawing or design

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

Watch the FREE video below or click here for written step-by-step instructions!

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Canvas is another amazing non-wood surface to embellish with pyrography. You will find canvas material in many different forms and adding wood burned touches to any of these canvas materials will add that personalized touch that will step up your canvas game. It is a bit smelly to burn, and you will need to clean your wood burning tool often, but it will look cool and be totally worth it. Be sure to utilize your safety equipment. You and those around you won’t want to be inhaling the fumes from burning on canvas, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated space and have fun with it!

Materials

• Canvas backback

• Water-soluble fabric pen

• Damp sponge

• Safety Equipment

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

Step 1: Choose your canvas backpack. Wash and dry before getting started.

Step 2: Lay your backpack flat on your table.

Step 3: With your water soluble pen, draw lines of varying lengths and arches from the bottom of the pack going up. These can be close together or spread apart, depending on how you envision the end result.

Step 4: Add lines of varying lengths to the right and left sides on these initial lines. Mix up the spacing between the lines to add interest.

Step 5: Put on safety gear. Canvas can be quite smelly, you don’t want to be breathing the fumes. An outdoor environment with plenty of air flow would be best.

Step 6: Turn on your wood burning tool. The temperature will depend on how quickly you would like to burn. The lower the temperature, the more controlled the burn. Start lower and turn up the temperature as needed. Using a spade or writing nib, burn by tracing over all of your drawn lines with the wood burning tool.

Step 7: Once you’ve traced all the lines, turn off your burning tool and carefully switch to a flow nib, preferably a ball-point. Reheat the burner and start adding the dots to the ends of your lines. To make a dot, simply hold the burner in place briefly. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you can burn a hole in your pack. Add burned dot ends until all lines are topped off with them.

Step 8: Rinse off your burned backpack or use a sponge and some water to carefully remove all water-soluble pen lines. Set out to dry.

Step 9: Wear your bag proudly, and enjoy the compliments.

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn More

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Make Your Own Poppy Wall Art

Watercolor is one of my favorite mediums to add to wood. It is quite liberating to add watercolor in this unique and loose way. You can take any simple line drawing and quickly turn it into a beautiful piece of art that will add vibrancy and warmth to any space. You can create a dramatic and playful effect by adding these fun and perfectly imperfect splashes of watercolor. Those splashes of bright color change the whole look of the piece, and really bring it to life.

I chose the California poppy for this particular piece for its bright colors and because I am absolutely obsessed with them. They pop up everywhere, are super vibrant, and just make me happy.

Materials

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Sand Paper Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Watercolors

• Safety Equipment (click here for the free safety guide)

• Plate or Palette

• Water Cup

• Paper Towels

• Sawtooth Picture Hanger

Step 1: Choose any simple line-drawn floral design. This can be a hand drawn doodle, a drawing from a photograph, or a design in this book. Then choose a wood slice to fit the design.

Step 2: Transfer the design to the wood. I am using graphite paper and a slice of basswood with a live edge. Make sure you have transferred the entire design before removing the design.

Step 3: Choose your nib and burn. For this particular piece I like to use a flow or writing nib. This gives me the freedom to burn smoothly in all directions, without catching an edge of the nib.

Step 4: Remove any remaining transfer lines after the design has been burned in its entirety.

Step 5: Pull out your watercolors, palette, water glass, paper towels, and paintbrushes.

Step 6: Color the flower fully, or at least the parts you want colored. Don’t use too much water or you may split your wood. It’s OK if you go over the lines on this particular piece - you actually should! A loose watercolor look is what we are going for. This technique gives the feeling that the flower is extending past the lines you have given it.

Step 7: Add the splashes of paint once you have completed the coloring of the flower. Practice on a scrap piece of paper or on the backside of your piece first. Dip into the same color, hold your brush close to the wood, pull back on the bristles and let them go. This will create a splashed look. You can go heavy on the splashes, or very subtle, it is entirely up to you.

Step 8: Wait for the piece to dry, then attach a sawtooth picture hanger to the back

Step 9: Complete your piece with a finish of your choosing. I prefer a spray finish over watercolors, so as to not unintentionally spread the paint on the wood.

Step 10: Hang it on your wall, or wrap it up and give it as a gift!

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished piece on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Gel pens are great for using on wood burned projects because they are easily accessible, not messy, come in so many colors, metallics and neons, and are easy to apply to small areas. These fun little gel pen magnets are just so perfect for the adorable designs by Jess from @jeshypark.

These magnets are both useful and whimsical, and who doesn’t love that?! They are super simple to make but will surely add character to any refrigerator.

Materials

• Tiny Wood Slices (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• A drawing or design (or you can draw it by hand)

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or Gel Pens other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

• Magnets

• E6000 Glue

• Cotton Swabs

Step 1. Choose your designs, size them, print them.

Step 2. Sand your tiny wood slices smooth. I am using mini birch slices. Basswood is also a popular wood choice.

Step 3. Cut and place the designs on the wood slices.

Step 4: Choose a transfer method. A variety of these are discussed in the book. I suggest a graphite, blue Chaco, or pencil on paper methods. Here I am using the pencil on paper method.

Step 5: Tape your tiny wood pieces to a larger wood slice from the backside.

Taping them down will hold them in place and allow you to easily turn them while you transfer and burn without worrying about getting burned. I learned this trick from @northstar_pyrogrpahy.

Step 6: Transfer the design. Remember, the more accurate the transfer, the cleaner the burn will be

Step 7: Warm up your burner with your nib of choice securely attached. 

* Be sure to TAKE YOUR HEALTH & SAFETY SERIOUSLY. Check out the Safety Blog outlining all the steps you can take to burn safely, download your FREE safety guide and always follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer.

Test your temperature on the back of one of your wood slices or a scrap piece of the same type of wood before getting started.

Step 8: Follow your transfer lines. Go slowly and be careful. Keep your fingers out of the way.

Consider using a different wood slice or object of equal thickness as a working surface on which to rest your hand.

This will allow you to burn more carefully and precisely with a steadier hand, which is especially important when working on something small.

Step 9: Remove any remaining transfer markings.

Step 10: Embellish your tiny wood burned designs with gel pens. There is no wrong way to do it, and I encourage you to go for it! Use metallic, neon, or monochrome colors. Color the whole thing, or just add accents. It is completely up to you!

Step 11: Once you are happy with the look, add a finish to keep them looking great for a long time. Allow to fully dry.

Step 12: Pull out magnets, E6000 glue, and cotton swabs. Flip the tiny burned slices over so the backside is facing up.

Step 13: Get a good amount of E6000 glue on the cotton swab and rub it on one side of a magnet.

Quickly place and slightly squish the magnet onto the backside of the wood burned piece.

Check on them after a few minutes to re-center any of the magnets which may have shifted position. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

*Be sure to work in a well-ventilated space because the glue can be quite stinky, and follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer

Step 14: Once dry, your adorable handmade magnets are ready for use!

Show off your work!

I cant wait to see how you take these designs and add your own twist! Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

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Lettering Tips and Tricks for Wood Burning

In the short video below these written instructions, I cover some quick tips and tricks to make for cleaner lines with lettering when it comes to wood burning on wood.

Please ensure you always follow the safety precautions outlined by the wood burning tool company and read our blog post for more tips and tricks on staying safe while burning (including a free downloadable version that can serve as a great reminder): Safety in Wood Burning

1. Start with a clean desk, and unfinished, dry, and sanded smooth wood. A smooth surface will make for a cleaner burn.

2. Make a clean transfer. I like to use the heat transfer technique for lettering, so that I have a perfect transfer. Be sure to flip your text or print in reverse first. If you are drawing directly on the surface, use a very light hand. Also check out how to transfer your image without using heat.

3. Make sure your nib is nice and clean, and scrape it off throughout the burning process. Test your temp before you start. Check out the blog post on tool care and maintenance to see how I keep my tools clean and ready to burn.

4. Start in the middle of the word. That way if you are burning a little hot, it won’t show as much as the beginning of the word.

5. Then start with your outlines. Get a clean outline of your words first, which then allows you to go back in and fill in without fear of going outside the lines or mistake.

6. Slow and steady, as usual. Pull don’t push. Let the burner glide on the surface. For more tips and tricks on burning, check out this blog post and scroll to the bottom to get some super helpful pieces of advice to help you burn smoother.

Looking for designs and templates to practice burning with?

Check out our Community Template Books

or The Templates Shop where you can find individual designs and royalty free template patterns too!

Are you new to wood burning and looking for a tool?

I recommend the Walnut Hollow Versa Tool as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

What lettering tips do you have? What have you found helpful? Please share in the comments.

Creative Woodburner - 4 original nibs and how to use them

This video goes over the 4 different nibs a.k.a. tips or points (Drawing Point, Rounded Shader, Universal, Shading Point, Ball Point) that come with the Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow, and how each can be used. I give examples of how the machine works and is set up, and how the different nibs can be used.

Make sure to check out how to use the 4 NEW nibs/points from Walnut Hollow

Get yours Here (use WBC15 at checkout for 15%off!)

• Creative Wood Burner

The Creative Woodburner features the art of WBC’s Rachel Strauss on its packaging and in the instruction manual/inspiration guide. It can be found in store at Joann, or online at Home Depot, Walnut Hollow, Amazon, and Joann. This burner is comfortable to hold, burns really well, and heats and cools quickly.

To learn about different wood burning machines and figure out which one is right for you, visit: What Wood Burning Tool is Right for Me?

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Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

So you are new to pyrography. WELCOME!

We are so glad you are here. Wood burning is such a versatile, relaxing, useful and wonderful hobby, and we’re so excited for you to discover it all.

The first step to learning about challenges, events, community news and anything happening in the pyro world is to sign up for out Free Burn Club Newsletter.

Keep reading to learn about the basics to get you started. We wanted to put together a place where you can go to get all sorts of great information in one spot.

Safety:

PLEASE start with the Safety Guide. It’s a guide on how to practice safe habits when wood burning. Really, don’t skip this. It is important for yourself and those around you and there is a free printable you can refer too and it also acts as a good reminder!

Tools and Accessories:

The following are three different ways to learn about what you need in order to get started:

1. The Wood Burn Box - A box with tools and accessories we recommend beginners to start with, all in one place! We’ve put the essential (and some odd but helpful) tools together with some wood slices and complete with instructions and everything else you need to easily start this relaxing hobby, right when you open the box!

2. If you want to customize the box, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit. It is basically a list (with direct links) of everything in The Wood Burn Box but with options (i.e. variety of recommended tools, variety of wood companies and odd tools you can choose or skip if you already have them at home).

3. Research your own tools. Click here for a guide on What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

How To:

Check the Online Classes page for video tutorials, recordings to masterclasses and some pretty cool. unique pyrography events, as well as mini freebie blog posts with project ideas and instructions on how to wood burn.

For a quick start guide, check out 10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

The Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide is a key element for beginners running into issues.

In the Burn Blog, you will find many helpful hints, techniques, reviews, project ideas and so much more!

Our Books and Templates:

The Wood Burn Book

The Wood Burn Book includes detailed instructions on how to wood burn, tools, tool care, wood types, wood prep, adding color, finishes, and is filled with fun projects.

get the book

Books with Patterns For Tracing

The Wood Burn Community Book of Templates is an intro to pyrography book with traceable templates created by our community for the community.

Check out the books

Templates Store

Individual Patterns

Unique patterns to practice with as well as Royalty Free designs!

shop for templates

Pieces of advice to help while burning:

• When in doubt, turn down your burner and go slower.

• Never leave a hot burner unattended. Always turn off and unplug.

• Pulling towards you is generally easier but try pushing your nib too.

• Don’t press hard: let the heat do the work.

• Let the burner glide across the wood.

• Turn your wood as you burn to keep a good vantage point.

• Always use dried, sanded, unfinished wood. Check out Common wood types you should NEVER burn on.

• Any color or finishing gets added after you are completed burning.

• Check out these transfer techniques: Transfer an image onto wood using heat or without heat.

• Join the wood burning community and not only will you learn all about wood burning, you will also make some really amazing friends.

• Read the Burn Club emails and the blog!

• Ask for help. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

We can’t wait to see what you make. Comment if you have any questions, need advice, want to give advice, or want to show off a finished piece!

We are here for it all.

Happy Burning, friends.

Adding Watercolor to Wood

There are so many different ways to add color to wood, but watercolor is probably my favorite.

There are a couple things you are going to want to know before you start adding watercolour on wood.

It doesn’t act the same way that watercolor paper does. Where you place it, it will soak in and stick. You can’t blend as easily as you can on paper. Especially if you are adding wood to a dried piece of wood, that wood will soak it right up because it is very thirsty.

Be careful not to use too much water or you can split the wood. (Trust me, I have done this!) You will think you can create more blending by adding more water, which you can, but it can be at the coast of the entire piece.

I prefer to use water brush pens for my paintbrushes. These are paintbrushes that hold the water or water color in their handle, and you squeeze them to get water onto your brush. I love these, because I have more control over the amount of water I am using, and it saves me time from having to dip back into the water glass.

There are some preferred watercolor manufacturers that I love like Arteza and Windsor & Newton, but a cheap pallet of colors from your local craft store will do just fine. If you are looking for metallic pigments, I can not recommend Fine-Tec Paints enough.

In this quick 5 minute video I cover how to add watercolor to wood, and what to avoid. I talk about the tools and materials that I use, and some tips and tricks I have learned.

No matter how you choose to add color, please remember, color goes AFTER burning. Never woodburn over color! Never ever! You do not want to be breathing those fumes. Always wood burn first then add your mixed media.

Affiliate Links for the materials I used:

• Arteza Watercolor Water Pens

• Cheap Watercolors

• Winsor and Newton Watercolors

• Gel Pens

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Walnut Hollow Birch Coaster is non longer available but THESE wood slices will work!

I cover 9 ways to add color to wood in my book, The Wood Burn Book.

You can also check out this blog post for a list of alternative mediums to use with pyrography.

Prepping Wood Surfaces for Wood Burning

A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.

I was prepping a wood surface, and thought I would show you what I do. Hope you enjoy this quick, little video.

I used:

• RZ Mask: M2

• Dewalt Oribit Sander

• Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit

• Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit

Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!

Always wear protection, safety first.

** note: You should also protect your eyes. Wear goggles or glasses to protect your eyes from dust. I normally do if I am doing more than one piece (promise) but you should be better than me. What is the saying.... “do as I say, not as I do.” Lol.

Check out this blog post for more tips and tricks when it comes to sanding your wood in preparation for pyrography!

How To Transfer Designs To Wood: Heat Method

This technique is one of our favorites for it’s speed and accuracy. It works great for lettered pieces, detailed pieces, anytime you need a really precise transfer, or for almost any design.

NOTE: This technique requires a laser printed design. If you are printing words or letters, you design must be printed in reverse.

What Tools Do I need?

The best tool would be a solid tip burner, like this Walnut Hollow Versa Tool above. This tool is great for covering big areas because of its durability, consistent heat distribution, and simplicity in handling. A wire tip burner will work just as well, but it will take a little longer.

The perfect nib for the job is the Transfer Nib or Transfer Point. This nib covers a large surface area making the transfer faster. Any shading point will do. Anything hot and flat - even an an iron will work.

Don’t have this tool and want to transfer your design in a pinch?? Check out 3 ways to transfer a design without using heat.

How to transfer your pattern:

1. Prepare your design

You will need your design printed in reverse as the transfer is going to be mirrored onto the surface. You must use a laser printer or photocopier. The toner will be transferred directly to the wood using heat. This is especially important with any text or lettering!

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

2. Prepare your SURFACE

Start with a sanded smooth, dry, clean, and unfinished wood surface. Click here to see how to prepare your surface for burning.

I like to cut quite close to the edges of the design itself so that the placement is easier to see. Leave some room for tape - you don’t want to be touching it with your hot tool.

Place your design on your wood facing down (make sure it is right where you want it) and tape down on one side (two or more if it's a large design.)

3. Transferring the design

You want your tool to be hot, but not hot enough to burn the paper. Make a little test on the corner because if you burn the paper too much, your transfer may not work. Apply a light pressure and keep moving your tool over the back of the design.

Make sure you transferred everything before you remove your design. I like to peak underneath to check I transferred the entire design, just be careful not to move the paper placement or the design may not line back up.

If it is not transferring, try pressing a little harder, and/or slowly increasing your heat.

Word of warning when using a regular iron:

I had a large project so I tried using an iron thinking it would save me time.

Well, my iron has a steam setting that automatically kicks in at a certain temperature. In order to make the transfer work, the heat has to be quite high and, of course, there should not be any steam or moisture coming out of the iron…

I tried to use the medium heat (right before the steam started coming out) and the design did transfer BUT I needed a lot more pressure than normal which wasn’t a sustainable option. I had to press quite hard for anything to happen. I switched back to the Versa Tool because it was easier on the wrists and had the heat I needed.

What if I make a mistake?

Sometimes when peaking under the paper to see if the design has transferred, the paper will shift. If you continue with the transferring process, the shift can cause the design to be out of place.

Sometimes you think you placed the design down correctly, but after the transfer, it’s not exactly where you want it to be…

You can simply sand off the transfer lines with regular sandpaper. Click here to learn more about that process.

How many times can I use the design??

You can use this method to transfer a design onto wood a couple times. Each time you transfer, the design will get lighter and lighter so it is best to get it right the first time!

Watch these free videos below for tips, tricks, and all the details you need to successfully transfer designs using this technique.

10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

Wood burning is such a versatile craft. Once you know the basics of pyrography, you can add wood burned embellishments to so many things. The options are endless.

You can make wall art, a personalized sign, a baby gift, a wedding present, a housewarming gift, and functional art… For some inspiration on what to burn next, check out this blog post: 160 Ideas of Things To Wood Burn Next

This is your quick-start 10 step guide to get you wood burning!

You will only need safety gear, a piece of wood, and a wood burning tool.

To get started with these, check out:

• The safety guide

• Top 9 wood surfaces

• How to choose a pyro tool

Oh and you will also need an idea of WHAT you want to burn! If you are not free hand burning, draw your design on with a pencil and burn over your lines with the hot tool.

If you want to transfer a design you will need a couple more things: the design, tape, graphite paper, a pen or embossing tool, and an eraser (preferably a sand eraser).

With these basic tools you can wood burn almost anything.

Designs and Templates:

If you want a design to practice with, check out our freebies page, grab a one of our Community Template Books or visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale.

Want to watch some classes on pyrography instead? There are some you can purchase, some where you can learn from experts in the community burn live, some tutorials for free and private classes too!

10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

For a more detailed list of tools you will need, check out our DIY Wood Burning Kit or learn more about What Wood Burning Tool is Right for Me.

1. Choose your wood and the design you would like to burn on it. Ensure the wood is dried, unfinished, and sanded smooth before you begin. Know your woods. Basswood, poplar, or birch are a great place to start. Click here to see the BEST WOOD FOR PYROGAPHY.

2. Work in a well-ventilated, clean, and flat workspace. Be sure to follow all safety precautions (check out our free safety guide) for quick and easy access when you burn). Always wear a mask and turn off and unplug your burner when not in use.

3. Size, cut, carefully position, and tape your design (download a free poppy design here) of choice to the wood.

4. Slide the graphite paper under the design with the darker side touching the wood.

5. Carefully trace the lines on the artwork, using your embossing tool or ballpoint pen with light-medium pressure.

6. Peek under the graphite and design to ensure all the artwork has been transferred before you remove them.

7. Choose your burner nib, screw it on, and heat up your wood burning tool. Once warm you are ready to burn!

8. Test your temperature on scrap wood, or the backside of your piece before you start. Go slow!

9. Pull don’t push. Let the burner do the work for you. Apply light, even pressure. Start with a lower temperature, because you can always add heat and always add more burn. Just glide. Really, go slow!

10. Once wood burning is complete, use a sand eraser to remove any graphite lines still showing. Check out: How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines.

Add color or a finish, if you so please, then post a photo and tag @woodburncorner in it! We want to see what you create!

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