5 Easy DIY Wood Burned Project Ideas

Want to make your own personalized DIY gifts for a loved one?? Pyrography is such a versatile hobby, below are 5 very easy projects you can make yourself and personalize in any way!

New to wood burning?

Check out our blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Here you will learn all about the tools you need, wood you should be using, safety you should be following and tips and tricks to help you make your own DIY wood slice project ideas come to life!

1. Wood Burned Spoons

Practical, useful gifts are always a good choice! Choose wooden spoons, spatulas, or salad servers with a simple design, or customize it with their name or their favorite quote. You really can’t go wrong with this functional art piece. Remind your gift receiver to not wash wood in the dishwasher, or to leave it soaking in water. Oil it with a food-grade safe oil, and recommend that your recipient re-oil them as needed to keep them looking good! Check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

2. Fridge Magnets

These can make such a cute gift. Create a set to give, and customize them for each person. These are adorable, functional and pretty easy to execute!

Learn all the details on how to complete this project in this blog post: Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Give it a try!

3. Cutting Board

Another practical, useful and functional art gift! Wood burning is so versatile, and I love how everything can be customized. Turn a favorite photo of your loved one into functional art. Add their name to a cutting board, or their favorite food/plant/flower/animal/etc to a serving board. Make it special to them. Remind them to hand wash only and to use a food-grade safe cutting board oil and reapply as necessary (check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art).

I like to use Walnut Hollow as they have their boards sanded ultra smooth and offer a good variety in terms of wood tyoe, shape and size!

4. Name Sign or Welcome Sign

New house? New marriage? New Baby? Create a family name sign! These are always well received. I like to keep my design simple so it can fit with other people’s decor. You could also add color, their house, or a special date if you have that information. Customize it to them! Again, Walnut Hollow is a great choice for large wood rounds and planks with both live edge options for a rustic look and non live egde options for a more modern look!

5. Wood Burned Clock

This is such a gorgeous, unique and thoughtful gift. It adds a warmth to any space, and is not only beautiful, but quite helpful. To create this piece I used a drill, Clock Parts from Walnut Hollow and a slice of Basswood. I sized and printed the numbers in the font of my choosing to fit the canvas. I then transferred the design using graphite paper and an embossing tool, and then burned the numbers using a Versatool burner. Then I used the drill to poke a hole in the center and added the clock parts. I used a Basswood Country Round, but you could also use a Circular Wood Canvas. I did not put a finish my clock, because I want to be able to darken it over time, as need be.

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Click here to learn how to transfer your child’s artwork onto wood and wood burn it for a lasting and personalized gift!

For more gift ideas and things to make next with your wood burning tool, check out this blog post with over 150 ideas of what to burn next!

And if you are just getting started in your pyrography journey, head here.

You can also find more project ideas and a full how-to in The Wood Burn Book or get yourself one of the Wood Burn Community Book of Template books full of traceable templates you can practice pyrography with!

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Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

Sanding, like it or hate it, is a part of being a wood burning artist. Sanding your wood before and after you burn can make your entire piece and your burn lines crisper.

A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.

There are some things you can do to make the job a little easier on yourself. See the steps below to getting the perfect surface to burn on:

Prepare the workspace

Place the wood slice on a flat and stable surface that won't move during sanding. You may want to clamp it down to keep it steady.

SAFETY FIRST!

Make sure you are in a well ventilated space, have an air purifier if sharing the space and you are wearing proper safety equipment. Something to protect your eyes and your lungs. Do it every time. The last thing you want is for your art to cause you harm. Protect yourself!

My favourite mask to use for everything I do with pyrography is RZ Mask. The M2 model is my favourite because it fits with my top pun or pony tail but they have so many to choose from and in so many different colors... They all have activated carbon filters which are replaceable and the mesh mask shell and valves are washable and reusable. They are comfortable, breathable and are 99% efficient against particulates down to 0.1 microns in size.

Choose the right sandpaper

The type of sandpaper you use will depend on how rough the surface of the wood slice is. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and gradually move to a finer grit (120-150 grit) for a smoother finish.

I love THIS bundle from amazon. It comes with a variety if you want to try it out on the wood you have. Some woods need more TLC and others come already very smooth.

Understanding Grit:

In the US grit is determined based on a scale. When shopping for sandpaper, you’ll see numbers such as 80-grit, 100-grit, or 200-grit. Keep in mind:

• The higher the number, the smaller the grains and the finer the sandpaper grit.

• The lower numbers indicate larger grains and overall coarser sandpaper

Generally you want to start out with a lower grit (coarser sandpaper). This helps to get rid of any larger scuffs, scratch marks, bumps and/or irregularities. Then you will want to increase the grit and finish off with a finer, more gentle sandpaper to get that ultra smooth finish.

Always sand with the grain of the wood, not against

Sand your pieces before you do any wood burning to ensure clean and crisp lines. A smooth surface will be much easier to burn on, and will create a better result.

Begin sanding the wood slice using the coarse grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the grain and use a back-and-forth motion. Sand any rough spots until they are smooth.

Once you've sanded the rough spots with the coarse sandpaper, switch to a finer grit sandpaper. Continue sanding until the surface is smooth and free of any scratches.

Finish with the finest grit for the ultimate smoothness

For an extra-smooth finish, use the finest grit sandpaper (220 grit) to sand the surface once more at the end. This will remove any remaining scratches and leave the surface with a smooth texture.

Clean the surface

Wipe off any dust and debris from the wood slice with a clean microfiber cloth (an old dry toothbrush helps to get into the cracks if the cloth cannot). You can also use an air compressor to get rid of any dust. Be careful to not get too close to the bark on a live edge wood slice. The strong air may remove delicate bark pieces and can come off. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use a brush to sweep of the dust or, better yet, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to safely capture the dust.

Sanding Tools

Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!

In the video below, I used:

RZ Mask: RZ Mask rocks! My first mask was the M2 but i also like the M1 as it has the ear straps which fit nicely. They have loads of different styles and sizes to choose from!

Dewalt Oribit Sander

Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit and Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit (here is a good variety pack!)

Sanding after you wood burn a piece

Sanding a piece after you burn removes any tracing lines as well as “overburn.” (Overburn, as you can see here on the left) is when you have a browning coloration right next to your burn line on the surface). Sanding your piece after you burn it gives your piece crisper and finer lines.

Use a 200-grit or 220-grit sandpaper (the finer the better) and remember to be super gentle when sanding at this stage, especially if you don’t burn very deep.

If you have any shading or surface burn lines, they may come off, so really; go light and slow here.

Watch how I sand my wood slices before I burn on them!

more Fun tips and tricks

Sanding sponge versus sanding block:

Since sponges form to your hand, a block sand paper will allow you to put in less effort and ensures you are sanding flat and not creating any divots. Try wrapping a sandpaper sheet to a scrap wood if you don’t have a pre-made sanding block (use a tube or pvc pipe instead of a block for contoured wood pieces)

Sanding power tools:

These come in handy! Especially if you prefer to sand your pieces in “batch work” style, meaning you sand a whole bunch all at once. I recommend this, because it is a time saver. You only have to get dirty once, you only have to pull out the tools once, and clean up the mess once. Then you have a stack of ready to go canvases. It’s awesome.

How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat

If you want to learn all the ways we transfer designs to wood, check out The Wood Burn Book by Rachel Strauss.

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

top 3 ways to easily transfer an image onto wood

1.GRAPHITE

• Graphite Paper

• Washi Tape

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

***Note: you may come across carbon paper which looks the same and transfers the same. Carbon is much harder to get off of the wood after the transfer so stick to graphite when you can!

You can also get White Graphite

• Use the same technique for darker woods, like walnut. The darker the wood is, the better this method shows up!

PRO’s: You only need graphite paper, a design, tape and a pencil. Low cost, easy to use and does a great job transferring even detailed designs. Graphite paper can be reused numerous times, and your designs can be used again as well.

CON’s: Graphite doesn’t remove easily on wood, so you have to be really careful with the transferring (don’t press too hard). Accidental smudges can happen easily. Store graphite separately from wood to make sure they don’t rub together. If you do get any smudges or leftover graphite, there is a chance you can save it by giving it a gentle sand with a 180 to 220 grit sandpaper (a finer grit sandpaper). Here are some other ways to remove leftover lines from transferring or drawing your design.

How to transfer using graphite:

1. After you’ve chosen a design and sized it to your sanded down wood slice; line it up and secure it using tape.

2. Slide the graphite paper, dark side facing the wood, underneath the design.

3. Take your pencil/pen/embossing tool and follow your design lines using light-medium pressure. Ensure you follow the design lines as closely as possible.

4. Check on the progress of your design, but do not move around or remove the design until you check to make sure it has completely transferred.

This video below features a Woodland Snail Template by Maria Johnson maple & Fern Co. from The Community Book of Templates, Volume 2. I used transfer paper to omit having to cut up the book or print anything and just traced it right off of the page!

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2. BLUE CHACO PAPER

• Blue Chaco (there are many different colors to choose from, blue is the darkest)

• Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool

PRO’s: Transfers easily like graphite paper, easily removes with damp cloth. Doesn’t stain/scar wood. Can be removed entirely.

CON’s: Be careful not to use too much water. It rubs off really easily, so it is not great for long-term use or too much detail as it can rub off with your hand. Also, since it blue in colour, it’s little harder to see on the wood if your wood is light.

This is a special paper with blue chalk on it. It transfers much like graphite paper, but erases with just a damp cloth.

How to transfer using ChACO paper:

1. Tape your design onto your wood, face up.

2. Slide the blue Chaco paper underneath with the blue side facing the wood.

3. Follow your design lines using an embossing tool or a ballpoint pen.

4. Check on progress of transfer, and remove design and chaco paper when everything has transferred Can be used for woodburning.

5. After wood burning is complete, you can remove the excess chaco markings with a damp cloth.

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3. Pencil on Paper

We like to use the Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack) or Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack) but any pencil will do; the softer the lead, the better (ie. 10B is better to use versus a 2B or any H’s)

PRO’s: It doesn’t require any fancy tools. It works well, and makes for a nice transfer. Works well for fonts and most designs.

CON’s: Time consuming, messy and can have some missing spots. Not great for really fine detailed pieces.

1. Take your design and flip it over

2. Blacken/shade the entire backside of your design with an extra-soft pencil, or any line that you will want transferred. Go past the lines on either side, to give yourself some wiggle room when you do the actual transfer.

3. Flip it back over, with the blackened side down, and carefully place and secure it to the wood slice. You don’t want to rub or move it around too much, because it will rub onto the wood.

4. Take your pen/pencil/embossing tool and go over the design with a light to medium pressure. Follow your lines as closely as possible. The more precise your transfer, the better your design will look.

5. Ensure you have completed the transfer before removing the design.

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Click Here to see the instructions on how to transfer your image using heat.

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A Brief History of Pyrography

Pyrography is one of the oldest human art forms. As long as humans have been taming fire, they have been drawing with it. It used to be called “pokerwork” before the term pyrography came to be.

Pyrography has a long and varied history.

In a nutshell: It is thought to have originated in Egypt, where it was used to decorate pottery and furniture. The practice then spread to Europe, where it was used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, and other items. In the 19th century, the art form saw a resurgence in popularity and was used to decorate a variety of items. In modern times, pyrography has become a popular art form and is used to create detailed and intricate designs. Today, pyrography is used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, kitchenware, and more.

Antique Circa 1890 Flemish Art Co. Pyrography Maiden Wood Wall Hanging Plaque

The history of pyrography: Wikipedia tells us that the process has been practiced by a number of cultures including the Egyptians and some African tribes since the dawn of recorded history. Pyrographer Robert Boyer hypothesizes that the art form dates back to prehistory when early humans created designs using the charred remains of their fires.

Pyrography artists in the middle ages used newly invented portable wood stoves as a heat source. These stoves had small holes in their lids for pokers to be placed through. The pokers rested in the holes and heated over the coals of the stove until they were hot enough to use. Artists would carry several pokers (needles and knives were also used) with them at all times so they could continue working while other pokers heated.

It was known in China from the time of the Han dynasty, where it was known as "Fire Needle Embroidery". During the Victorian era, the invention of pyrography machines sparked a widespread interest in the craft, and it was at this time that the term "pyrography" was coined (previously the name "pokerwork" had been most widely used).

The term, pyrography, means "writing with fire", from the Greek pur (fire) and graphos (writing). It can be practiced using specialized modern pyrography tools, or using a metal implement heated in a fire, or even sunlight concentrated with a magnifying lens.

Surviving examples of Western European pyrography from the 15th and 16th centuries include decorative designs on musical instruments such as the Trinity and Queen Mary harps and richly ornamented chests, coffers and panels from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Queen Mary harp currently resides in Scotland and the Trinity harp in Ireland. The pyrographic designs are faint and the pigments faded.

According to SophieNBurg, museum and archives, A mechanical tool was invented around 1900 that made the creation of pyrography art easier. In the early 20th century, the development of the electric pyrographic hot wire wood etching machine further automated the pokerwork process.

The craft of pyrography enjoyed a surge of popularity in the United States from the 1880s to the 1920s. Housewives and young adults were encouraged to keep their hands busy and make small craft projects to beautify their homes. Books and magazines published designs and patterns. Kits were available through mail-order catalogues like Sears, Roebuck & Co. and Montgomery-Ward. Pyrography is a traditional folk art in many parts of Europe, including Romania, Poland, Hungary, and Flanders, as well as Argentina and other areas in South America.

It has been gaining traction and becoming more mainstream these past couple of years, and that is all thanks to the incredibly relaxing qualities that pyrography naturally has and you all! Keep spreading the word about the wonderful world of Pyrography!

New to pyrography?

Check out this blog post:

Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Favorite Odd Tools for Woodburning

These are some of our favourite tools to have nearby when creating pyrography projects of any kind. These are tools that are not necessarily essential, but sure feel essential to me. They make the task at hand easier, faster or simply just more convenient.

Tombow Sand Eraser

This is THE BEST tool that I have found to get rid of unwanted graphite markings. I first discovered this when I saw an ink artist using the eraser, and saw that it was called a “sand eraser,” so I wondered if it would work on wood, and it did! Now I see this eraser being using widely amongst pyros, and it makes me so happy I decided to experiment that day.

Watercolor Water Pens

This saves so much time with watercolor/gouache/acrylic. Instead of having to dip back in water, the water is held in the pen. It’s brilliant!!! It’s easy to adjust the amount of water too which is key to painting on wood. Too much water can split it… Always remember to burn first, and then add your color. CLICK HERE for more water-colour on wood tips.

Brass Brush

This is my go-to, must-have tool next to me while I burn. I use it to quickly and gently scrape away any char on my nib so I can keep a nice smooth burn. Some artists may think this is too harsh for their nibs, but I have had zero issues with scratching/damaging nibs with this technique. Look for something with softer bristles. Giving it a quick scrape keeps my lines clean and smooth. Highly recommend. CLICK HERE to learn more about maintaining and cleaning your tools.

Blue Chaco Paper

This stuff is a great alternative to graphite paper, and only requires a little damp cloth to wipe away. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it, and can be used over and over again just like graphite paper. You transfer it in the exact same way you do for a transfer or graphite paper, but any unwanted lines can be removed so much easier. (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat).

Metal Ruler

Metal is key here, because you can use it to burn straight lines by cozying your burner right up next to the edge of the ruler. If you were to use plastic, you’d melt it, so be sure it is a metal ruler. It works really well to create nice straight lines, just be sure to hold it firmly in place and keep your fingers out of the way. Do not hold the ruler near where you are burning!

Pen Razor Blade

This is like having a magic eraser. Any over burned areas, or little mistakes you can gently chip them away with a razor blade and no one will ever know. Be careful though. Once. you chip it away, you won’t have a flat texture to burn on and the spot may be noticeable, especially if you go deep. Try gently scraping it first. On the other hand, getting the inverted texture is something you are looking for: it is great for creating fine hairs in detailed photorealistic pieces after you’ve burned it.

Needle Nose Pliers

This is so I can carefully change nibs while they are still warm. If you are impatient, like me, I suggest having a pair of these at the ready when you are burning. Also have a ceramic dish or glass jar/bowl to catch those hot nibs to go along with it. This is obviously not necessary, because you can always wait for your burner to cool before changing nibs by hand.

ceramic ring dish

This is where I ditch my hot nibs/tips when changing them out mid-burn. A glass or metal dish would work as well.

Sand Paper Pens or a tiny sanding stick

These sand paper pens/sticks are also great for those finer details, and little mistakes. No matter how good of a job I did on the burn, I can always tidy it up a bit with one of these bad boys. It only takes a little bit of time, but they clean up any piece to give it that polished look.

Wooden ball stylus dotting tool

I use this for transferring designs to wood (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat). It allows me to use the same design over and over again.

Camera Holder (small and Large)

This is so I can film and photograph while I burn hands-free. It is much safer and creates better quality content.

I have one small holder that I attach to my desk for close ups. This is one I also take around with me because it is super portable and very very sturdy.

The larger one lives on my desk!

If you are a pyrographer that utilizes social media for marketing, then I can not recommend this enough. Hit that record button each time you sit down, and you will find yourself with so much great content that you can use.

What are your favorite odd tools for wood burning?

Check out this blog post for learning how to take care of all your wood burning tools.

Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool

Tool care and cleaning is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.

Caring for a pyrography machine ensures its longevity and consistent performance.

If you are in the market to buy, but don’t know what to choose, check out this blog post: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Below are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape.

We include products with Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools. We only recommend what we know and love.

For general wood burner (machine)care:

• Make sure your burner has good air flow.

• Make sure it is free of dust and dirt. Do not use harsh chemicals or water to clean the machine, as this can damage its components: Wipe the machine and pen with a soft, dry cloth instead.

• Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time and avoids damaging internal components.

• Avoid pulling or yanking the cords; instead, unplug it gently.

• Follow manufacturer instructions: Refer to the user manual for specific care recommendations for your pyrography machine.

When traveling or Storing: take care to pack your burner well.

• Keep the machine in a cool, dry place, away from moisture or extreme temperatures.

• Do not to bend any of the cords with force or pressure or excessively. This will cause the wires to break or become weak inside the palstic. You usually can’t see this happeneing but it does, especially with lots of bending.

• Store the pen with its tip detached or in a protective case to prevent damage. Usually the pens come in individual cases… Keep these for travel or storage. I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!

nib care:

• Ensure the tips or nibs you use are compatible with your machine.

• Handle tips with care, as bending or forcing them can damage the connectors. This goes for when in use and storing them!
  

Nib Cleaning:

You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.

My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my nip/tip/pen a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy” or I see char build-up.

Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.

These are other ways that you can clean them.

These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.

Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.

Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.

Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.

Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.

In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!

Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography

Adding mixed media elements to a wood burned piece is so much fun. The options are literally endless.

The image here is wood burned first, then holes were drilled, and then I used thread to create patterns that mimic the wood burned patterns! Imagine this with other rope materials (such as iridescent thread or simple twine…)

Have fun with it and think outside the box!

One thing you want to keep in mind is that you should almost always do your pyrography first, then add your mixed media. It is not safe to burn on unnatural surfaces. Grab your Pyrography Safety Guide to stay safe while burning!

Here are a couple fun Mixed media on wood ideas to get your juices flowing.....

• Dried Flowers

• Artificial Flowers

• Watercolor (click for a blog post for tips on how to add watercolor to wood)

• Shelves

• Chalkboard paint

• Hooks

• Mirrors

• Stickers

• Photographs

• Lights

• Macrame

• Gemstones

• Numbers

Gold Leaf on Wood

Pencil Crayon on Wood

• Plants

• Embroidery

• Gold Leaf (like in the image above, this medium is thinner and gives a lot of texture)

• Deco foil (this adds a metallic touch but is a solid gold finish as it is thicker than gold foil)

• Glitter

• Sand

• Shells

• Beads

• Sparkly Glue

• Pencil Crayons

• Water Marbling (Click to be taken to finelinepyro.ca and learn more about this medium)

Ebru Painting/Water Marbling on Wood

The options are endless so have fun experimenting with all different mediums! If you’ve tried one that is not on this list, leave a comment below!

Get more Inspiration for mixed media on wood

Follow along a variety of projects using mixed media in The Wood Burn Book to see other projects you can make on wood.

For some inspiration, follow my Pinterest board to see all sorts of different mediums you can apply to wood!

How to have fun with loose watercolor and pyrography

What you need: Get all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

Below are to all the products we used (some are Amazon affiliate links):

• Small Basswood Country Round

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point (use the code WBC15 for 15% off!).

• Graphite Paper

• Sand Paper

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Washi Tape

• Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool

• Watercolor

• Paintbrush

• Finish

I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:

Creative Woodburner - 4 new nibs and how to use them

The Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow is a wire-tipped burner that comes with four interchangeable points/nibs.

Walnut Hollow just created four new nibs that work with this burner, and in this video I show them to you.

The 4 new nibs or points (Stamping Point 1, Drawing Point 2, Spoon Shading Point 1 and Spoon Shading Point 2) are now available for the Creative Woodburner. This is how each of the nibs can be used.

You can purchase these individually at walnuthollow.com

To see the Creative Woodburner’s original set of 4 nibs that come with the burner, check out this blog post!

How to get your kids involved in pyrography

My kids are always so excited to see what I am making. They watch the process, they see the finished results, and they cheer me on, which is why getting them involved is so much fun. Collaborating with them to create a unique piece gives them such pride. You can use a design they have already drawn, or have them create something new.

I like to do the burning while they watch, and then have them finish it off with markers, colored pencils or watercolor.

This makes an amazing gift for a grandparent, spouse, or loved one. It is also a great class option if you teach, especially around Mothers/Father’s Day.

What you will need:

• A drawing or design

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

Watch the FREE video below or click here for written step-by-step instructions!

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Canvas is another amazing non-wood surface to embellish with pyrography. You will find canvas material in many different forms and adding wood burned touches to any of these canvas materials will add that personalized touch that will step up your canvas game. It is a bit smelly to burn, and you will need to clean your wood burning tool often, but it will look cool and be totally worth it. Be sure to utilize your safety equipment. You and those around you won’t want to be inhaling the fumes from burning on canvas, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated space and have fun with it!

Materials

• Canvas backback

• Water-soluble fabric pen

• Damp sponge

• Safety Equipment

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

Step 1: Choose your canvas backpack. Wash and dry before getting started.

Step 2: Lay your backpack flat on your table.

Step 3: With your water soluble pen, draw lines of varying lengths and arches from the bottom of the pack going up. These can be close together or spread apart, depending on how you envision the end result.

Step 4: Add lines of varying lengths to the right and left sides on these initial lines. Mix up the spacing between the lines to add interest.

Step 5: Put on safety gear. Canvas can be quite smelly, you don’t want to be breathing the fumes. An outdoor environment with plenty of air flow would be best.

Step 6: Turn on your wood burning tool. The temperature will depend on how quickly you would like to burn. The lower the temperature, the more controlled the burn. Start lower and turn up the temperature as needed. Using a spade or writing nib, burn by tracing over all of your drawn lines with the wood burning tool.

Step 7: Once you’ve traced all the lines, turn off your burning tool and carefully switch to a flow nib, preferably a ball-point. Reheat the burner and start adding the dots to the ends of your lines. To make a dot, simply hold the burner in place briefly. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you can burn a hole in your pack. Add burned dot ends until all lines are topped off with them.

Step 8: Rinse off your burned backpack or use a sponge and some water to carefully remove all water-soluble pen lines. Set out to dry.

Step 9: Wear your bag proudly, and enjoy the compliments.

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn More

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Make Your Own Poppy Wall Art

Watercolor is one of my favorite mediums to add to wood. It is quite liberating to add watercolor in this unique and loose way. You can take any simple line drawing and quickly turn it into a beautiful piece of art that will add vibrancy and warmth to any space. You can create a dramatic and playful effect by adding these fun and perfectly imperfect splashes of watercolor. Those splashes of bright color change the whole look of the piece, and really bring it to life.

I chose the California poppy for this particular piece for its bright colors and because I am absolutely obsessed with them. They pop up everywhere, are super vibrant, and just make me happy.

Materials

• FREE poppy design printable template

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Wood (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• Sand Paper Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Watercolors

• Safety Equipment (click here for the free safety guide)

• Plate or Palette

• Water Cup

• Paper Towels

• Sawtooth Picture Hanger

Step 1: Choose any simple line-drawn floral design. This can be a hand drawn doodle, a drawing from a photograph, or a design in this book. Then choose a wood slice to fit the design.

Step 2: Transfer the design to the wood. I am using graphite paper and a slice of basswood with a live edge. Make sure you have transferred the entire design before removing the design.

Step 3: Choose your nib and burn. For this particular piece I like to use a flow or writing nib. This gives me the freedom to burn smoothly in all directions, without catching an edge of the nib.

Step 4: Remove any remaining transfer lines after the design has been burned in its entirety.

Step 5: Pull out your watercolors, palette, water glass, paper towels, and paintbrushes.

Step 6: Color the flower fully, or at least the parts you want colored. Don’t use too much water or you may split your wood. It’s OK if you go over the lines on this particular piece - you actually should! A loose watercolor look is what we are going for. This technique gives the feeling that the flower is extending past the lines you have given it.

Step 7: Add the splashes of paint once you have completed the coloring of the flower. Practice on a scrap piece of paper or on the backside of your piece first. Dip into the same color, hold your brush close to the wood, pull back on the bristles and let them go. This will create a splashed look. You can go heavy on the splashes, or very subtle, it is entirely up to you.

Step 8: Wait for the piece to dry, then attach a sawtooth picture hanger to the back

Step 9: Complete your piece with a finish of your choosing. I prefer a spray finish over watercolors, so as to not unintentionally spread the paint on the wood.

Step 10: Hang it on your wall, or wrap it up and give it as a gift!

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished piece on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Gel pens are great for using on wood burned projects because they are easily accessible, not messy, come in so many colors, metallics and neons, and are easy to apply to small areas. These fun little gel pen magnets are just so perfect for the adorable designs by Jess from @jeshypark.

These magnets are both useful and whimsical, and who doesn’t love that?! They are super simple to make but will surely add character to any refrigerator.

Materials

• Tiny Wood Slices (unfinished, dried, sanded smooth)

• A drawing or design (or you can draw it by hand)

• Burner (I like to use the Walnut Hollow Versatool and recommend it as a starting point. Use the coupon code WBC15 for 15% off your order, on us! Head over to the following blog post: What Tool Is Right for Me, if you want to learn about a variety of pyro tools, uses and price points for each.)

• Sand Paper: Sponge or Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers or Gel Pens other medium to add colour (optional - check out: Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography)

• Safety Equipment (click here for the safety guide)

• Magnets

• E6000 Glue

• Cotton Swabs

Step 1. Choose your designs, size them, print them.

Step 2. Sand your tiny wood slices smooth. I am using mini birch slices. Basswood is also a popular wood choice.

Step 3. Cut and place the designs on the wood slices.

Step 4: Choose a transfer method. A variety of these are discussed in the book. I suggest a graphite, blue Chaco, or pencil on paper methods. Here I am using the pencil on paper method.

Step 5: Tape your tiny wood pieces to a larger wood slice from the backside.

Taping them down will hold them in place and allow you to easily turn them while you transfer and burn without worrying about getting burned. I learned this trick from @northstar_pyrogrpahy.

Step 6: Transfer the design. Remember, the more accurate the transfer, the cleaner the burn will be

Step 7: Warm up your burner with your nib of choice securely attached. 

* Be sure to TAKE YOUR HEALTH & SAFETY SERIOUSLY. Check out the Safety Blog outlining all the steps you can take to burn safely, download your FREE safety guide and always follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer.

Test your temperature on the back of one of your wood slices or a scrap piece of the same type of wood before getting started.

Step 8: Follow your transfer lines. Go slowly and be careful. Keep your fingers out of the way.

Consider using a different wood slice or object of equal thickness as a working surface on which to rest your hand.

This will allow you to burn more carefully and precisely with a steadier hand, which is especially important when working on something small.

Step 9: Remove any remaining transfer markings.

Step 10: Embellish your tiny wood burned designs with gel pens. There is no wrong way to do it, and I encourage you to go for it! Use metallic, neon, or monochrome colors. Color the whole thing, or just add accents. It is completely up to you!

Step 11: Once you are happy with the look, add a finish to keep them looking great for a long time. Allow to fully dry.

Step 12: Pull out magnets, E6000 glue, and cotton swabs. Flip the tiny burned slices over so the backside is facing up.

Step 13: Get a good amount of E6000 glue on the cotton swab and rub it on one side of a magnet.

Quickly place and slightly squish the magnet onto the backside of the wood burned piece.

Check on them after a few minutes to re-center any of the magnets which may have shifted position. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

*Be sure to work in a well-ventilated space because the glue can be quite stinky, and follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer

Step 14: Once dry, your adorable handmade magnets are ready for use!

Show off your work!

I cant wait to see how you take these designs and add your own twist! Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

---

Lettering Tips and Tricks for Wood Burning

In the short video below these written instructions, I cover some quick tips and tricks to make for cleaner lines with lettering when it comes to wood burning on wood.

Please ensure you always follow the safety precautions outlined by the wood burning tool company and read our blog post for more tips and tricks on staying safe while burning (including a free downloadable version that can serve as a great reminder): Safety in Wood Burning

1. Start with a clean desk, and unfinished, dry, and sanded smooth wood. A smooth surface will make for a cleaner burn.

2. Make a clean transfer. I like to use the heat transfer technique for lettering, so that I have a perfect transfer. Be sure to flip your text or print in reverse first. If you are drawing directly on the surface, use a very light hand. Also check out how to transfer your image without using heat.

3. Make sure your nib is nice and clean, and scrape it off throughout the burning process. Test your temp before you start. Check out the blog post on tool care and maintenance to see how I keep my tools clean and ready to burn.

4. Start in the middle of the word. That way if you are burning a little hot, it won’t show as much as the beginning of the word.

5. Then start with your outlines. Get a clean outline of your words first, which then allows you to go back in and fill in without fear of going outside the lines or mistake.

6. Slow and steady, as usual. Pull don’t push. Let the burner glide on the surface. For more tips and tricks on burning, check out this blog post and scroll to the bottom to get some super helpful pieces of advice to help you burn smoother.

Looking for designs and templates to practice burning with?

Check out our Community Template Books

or The Templates Shop where you can find individual designs and royalty free template patterns too!

Are you new to wood burning and looking for a tool?

I recommend the Walnut Hollow Versa Tool as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

What lettering tips do you have? What have you found helpful? Please share in the comments.

Pyrography on Odd Objects

Will it burn? Pyrography is such a versatile art! You can burn on almost everything.

I have been working on a little passion project over on TikTok of experimenting with pyrography on all kinds of odd things. It has been so much fun.

I usually involve my kids in the process of filming, design, editing, etc… They have been having as much fun as I have been having at using my wood burning tool in new and weird ways.

So far, we have been burning on a lot of different food items, and it has been so interesting to see what burns well, and what does not. I have plans to try burning on so many different objects, so stay tuned for all the weird and the fun.

List of what I’ve burned on:

• a hundred dollar bill

• paper

• antler

• lime

• pasta

• mango

• tortilla

• radish

• canvas

• onion

• lasagna

• leather

• cantaloupe

• watermelon

• orange

• carrot

• toast

• potato

• egg

• apple

• pasta

• denim

For me, making a lasagna with Garfield’s image burned into it has been my favorite. I have also burned Shrek’s face into a tortilla, and burned on mango! Check it out.

I know I am not alone in my experiments. I have seen pyrographers burn on all sorts of odd objects. Who said the wood burning tool was just for wood, anyway?

What have you tried to burn on? What has been your favorite?

As always, safety is important. Protect yourself and those around you when experimenting, and use your best judgement when choosing things to burn. I do my experiments outdoors, with a mask and fan.

Check out this blog post on Common Wood Types to Avoid Burning on!

and Feel free to download our free guide to safety, here.

For more ideas on fun random things to burn on, follow my Pinterest board: Alternative Surfaces To Burn On.

Creative Woodburner - 4 original nibs and how to use them

This video goes over the 4 different nibs a.k.a. tips or points (Drawing Point, Rounded Shader, Universal, Shading Point, Ball Point) that come with the Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow, and how each can be used. I give examples of how the machine works and is set up, and how the different nibs can be used.

Make sure to check out how to use the 4 NEW nibs/points from Walnut Hollow

Get yours Here (use WBC15 at checkout for 15%off!)

• Creative Wood Burner

The Creative Woodburner features the art of WBC’s Rachel Strauss on its packaging and in the instruction manual/inspiration guide. It can be found in store at Joann, or online at Home Depot, Walnut Hollow, Amazon, and Joann. This burner is comfortable to hold, burns really well, and heats and cools quickly.

To learn about different wood burning machines and figure out which one is right for you, visit: What Wood Burning Tool is Right for Me?

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Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

So you are new to pyrography. WELCOME!

We are so glad you are here. Wood burning is such a versatile, relaxing, useful and wonderful hobby, and we’re so excited for you to discover it all.

The first step to learning about challenges, events, community news and anything happening in the pyro world is to sign up for out Free Burn Club Newsletter.

Keep reading to learn about the basics to get you started. We wanted to put together a place where you can go to get all sorts of great information in one spot.

Safety:

PLEASE start with the Safety Guide. It’s a guide on how to practice safe habits when wood burning. Really, don’t skip this. It is important for yourself and those around you and there is a free printable you can refer too and it also acts as a good reminder!

Tools and Accessories:

The following are three different ways to learn about what you need in order to get started:

1. The Wood Burn Box - A box with tools and accessories we recommend beginners to start with, all in one place! We’ve put the essential (and some odd but helpful) tools together with some wood slices and complete with instructions and everything else you need to easily start this relaxing hobby, right when you open the box!

2. If you want to customize the box, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit. It is basically a list (with direct links) of everything in The Wood Burn Box but with options (i.e. variety of recommended tools, variety of wood companies and odd tools you can choose or skip if you already have them at home).

3. Research your own tools. Click here for a guide on What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

How To:

Check the Online Classes page for video tutorials, recordings to masterclasses and some pretty cool. unique pyrography events, as well as mini freebie blog posts with project ideas and instructions on how to wood burn.

For a quick start guide, check out 10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

The Pyrography Troubleshooting Guide is a key element for beginners running into issues.

In the Burn Blog, you will find many helpful hints, techniques, reviews, project ideas and so much more!

Our Books and Templates:

The Wood Burn Book

The Wood Burn Book includes detailed instructions on how to wood burn, tools, tool care, wood types, wood prep, adding color, finishes, and is filled with fun projects.

get the book

Books with Patterns For Tracing

The Wood Burn Community Book of Templates is an intro to pyrography book with traceable templates created by our community for the community.

Check out the books

Templates Store

Individual Patterns

Unique patterns to practice with as well as Royalty Free designs!

shop for templates

Pieces of advice to help while burning:

• When in doubt, turn down your burner and go slower.

• Never leave a hot burner unattended. Always turn off and unplug.

• Pulling towards you is generally easier but try pushing your nib too.

• Don’t press hard: let the heat do the work.

• Let the burner glide across the wood.

• Turn your wood as you burn to keep a good vantage point.

• Always use dried, sanded, unfinished wood. Check out Common wood types you should NEVER burn on.

• Any color or finishing gets added after you are completed burning.

• Check out these transfer techniques: Transfer an image onto wood using heat or without heat.

• Join the wood burning community and not only will you learn all about wood burning, you will also make some really amazing friends.

• Read the Burn Club emails and the blog!

• Ask for help. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

We can’t wait to see what you make. Comment if you have any questions, need advice, want to give advice, or want to show off a finished piece!

We are here for it all.

Happy Burning, friends.

Adding Watercolor to Wood

There are so many different ways to add color to wood, but watercolor is probably my favorite.

There are a couple things you are going to want to know before you start adding watercolour on wood.

It doesn’t act the same way that watercolor paper does. Where you place it, it will soak in and stick. You can’t blend as easily as you can on paper. Especially if you are adding wood to a dried piece of wood, that wood will soak it right up because it is very thirsty.

Be careful not to use too much water or you can split the wood. (Trust me, I have done this!) You will think you can create more blending by adding more water, which you can, but it can be at the coast of the entire piece.

I prefer to use water brush pens for my paintbrushes. These are paintbrushes that hold the water or water color in their handle, and you squeeze them to get water onto your brush. I love these, because I have more control over the amount of water I am using, and it saves me time from having to dip back into the water glass.

There are some preferred watercolor manufacturers that I love like Arteza and Windsor & Newton, but a cheap pallet of colors from your local craft store will do just fine. If you are looking for metallic pigments, I can not recommend Fine-Tec Paints enough.

In this quick 5 minute video I cover how to add watercolor to wood, and what to avoid. I talk about the tools and materials that I use, and some tips and tricks I have learned.

No matter how you choose to add color, please remember, color goes AFTER burning. Never woodburn over color! Never ever! You do not want to be breathing those fumes. Always wood burn first then add your mixed media.

Affiliate Links for the materials I used:

• Arteza Watercolor Water Pens

• Cheap Watercolors

• Winsor and Newton Watercolors

• Gel Pens

• Embossing Tool (or pen or pencil)

• Walnut Hollow Birch Coaster is non longer available but THESE wood slices will work!

I cover 9 ways to add color to wood in my book, The Wood Burn Book.

You can also check out this blog post for a list of alternative mediums to use with pyrography.

How To Transfer Designs To Wood: Heat Method

This technique is one of our favorites for it’s speed and accuracy. It works great for lettered pieces, detailed pieces, anytime you need a really precise transfer, or for almost any design.

NOTE: This technique requires a laser printed design. If you are printing words or letters, you design must be printed in reverse.

What Tools Do I need?

The best tool would be a solid tip burner, like this Walnut Hollow Versa Tool above. This tool is great for covering big areas because of its durability, consistent heat distribution, and simplicity in handling. A wire tip burner will work just as well, but it will take a little longer.

The perfect nib for the job is the Transfer Nib or Transfer Point. This nib covers a large surface area making the transfer faster. Any shading point will do. Anything hot and flat - even an an iron will work.

Don’t have this tool and want to transfer your design in a pinch?? Check out 3 ways to transfer a design without using heat.

How to transfer your pattern:

1. Prepare your design

You will need your design printed in reverse as the transfer is going to be mirrored onto the surface. You must use a laser printer or photocopier. The toner will be transferred directly to the wood using heat. This is especially important with any text or lettering!

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

2. Prepare your SURFACE

Start with a sanded smooth, dry, clean, and unfinished wood surface. Click here to see how to prepare your surface for burning.

I like to cut quite close to the edges of the design itself so that the placement is easier to see. Leave some room for tape - you don’t want to be touching it with your hot tool.

Place your design on your wood facing down (make sure it is right where you want it) and tape down on one side (two or more if it's a large design.)

3. Transferring the design

You want your tool to be hot, but not hot enough to burn the paper. Make a little test on the corner because if you burn the paper too much, your transfer may not work. Apply a light pressure and keep moving your tool over the back of the design.

Make sure you transferred everything before you remove your design. I like to peak underneath to check I transferred the entire design, just be careful not to move the paper placement or the design may not line back up.

If it is not transferring, try pressing a little harder, and/or slowly increasing your heat.

Word of warning when using a regular iron:

I had a large project so I tried using an iron thinking it would save me time.

Well, my iron has a steam setting that automatically kicks in at a certain temperature. In order to make the transfer work, the heat has to be quite high and, of course, there should not be any steam or moisture coming out of the iron…

I tried to use the medium heat (right before the steam started coming out) and the design did transfer BUT I needed a lot more pressure than normal which wasn’t a sustainable option. I had to press quite hard for anything to happen. I switched back to the Versa Tool because it was easier on the wrists and had the heat I needed.

What if I make a mistake?

Sometimes when peaking under the paper to see if the design has transferred, the paper will shift. If you continue with the transferring process, the shift can cause the design to be out of place.

Sometimes you think you placed the design down correctly, but after the transfer, it’s not exactly where you want it to be…

You can simply sand off the transfer lines with regular sandpaper. Click here to learn more about that process.

How many times can I use the design??

You can use this method to transfer a design onto wood a couple times. Each time you transfer, the design will get lighter and lighter so it is best to get it right the first time!

Watch these free videos below for tips, tricks, and all the details you need to successfully transfer designs using this technique.

160 Ideas of Things To Wood Burn Next

Creativity ruts are a very real thing. When the options are endless for things you can wood burn, choosing one can be difficult. I have found that if I give myself some sort of constraint, whether it be an object, a subject matter, or a word, that it tends to spark an idea much easier. This is a place I hope you visit when you need inspiration of what to burn next.

My suggestion for utilizing this list would be to close your eyes, twirl your finger around, point, and see where you land. You can choose to point again, or let your mind wander with how you could create that object with your unique wood burned touches. I think you will find inspiration quite quickly.

I also recommend looking at old #burntmonthchallenge prompts (#burntmarch, #burntfebruary), and #burntday prompts for inspiration. Check out this blog post to learn more about these challenges!

If you need patterns and designs to burn, visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale, like the one on these wooden spoons or grab yourself one of the community template books.

160 Ideas of What to Wood Burn Next:

spoons + serving ware + cutting boards + plaques + baseball bats + hammer + key chain + leather jacket + notebooks + ring dish + growth blocks + baby blocks + growth wall charts + toys + wall art + food display + candle display + pet portraits + coasters + ornaments + trophies + tables + cake knife + violin + guitar + desk + chairs + salad bowl + candy dish + wooden cups + cell phone covers + earrings + necklaces + bracelets + hair clips + chopsticks + baby bowls + baby plates + candle holders + serving tray + dice tray + toy box + shelving unit + bed headboard + wooden watch + clock + rolling pin + wooden apple + trivets + wooden tongs + pen holder + business card holder + jewelry holder +  shirts + jackets + canvas bag + leather key chains + salt bowl + coffee scoop + doll house + cabinet + piggy bank + wooden airplane + hand held fan + countertop + wine rack + cheese plate + cheese knives + toilet seat + memory box + plates + vase + comb + brush  + wall sign + open/closed sign + drawer fronts + lazy susans + puzzles + matching games + bathroom signs + kids’ room signs + chess pieces + checkers + trinket tray + cane + walking stick + map + key hook + magnets + boomerang + coat hangers + watercolor paper + driftwood + tool handles + skateboard deck + napkin holders + stools + magic wands + brooms + cork + dried gourd + pumpkin + nesting dolls + shoehorn + wooden bookmark + fishing pole + jenga + belts + purse + shoes + toy train + tablet cover + light switch cover + outlet cover + coffee table + animal ID tag + door knobs + bird house + dog bowl holder + wooden eggs + essential oil diffuser + dog name sign + welcome sign + step stool + bone + antler + tooth + horn + tree bark + cotton + pencil + stylus + recipe box + hats + leather backpack + canvas tote + rings + napkin rings + table number displays + logo sign + displays for business + cups + cribbage board + wooden pipe + tie clip + cuff links + figurines + wooden peg doll + bed frame + sandwich boards + chalkboard + picture frame  + pool cue + alphabet blocks + leather bookmarks + catchall + paper cards

The options are endless, and oh-so fun to imagine.

Check out some of these fun projects:

DIY Wood Burned Plant Marker

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Need more pyrography inspiration or project ideas?

Check out the Pinterest board: Ideas and Items to Burn On for everyday and unique items made from wood or burnable surfaces.