Learn from pyrography experts with 6 wood burning masterclasses. Learn new skills, discover new techniques, and explore new tools and mediums with The Wood Burn Sessions.
To all who could join in the live from February 6-12, 2023 and all of those who supported the artists, us and the community!
If you’ve missed the live event, or couldn’t make it to all the classes, grab yourself the Recordings below.
Below is a collection of gift options that are perfect for wood burning artists. These include gift ideas for experienced pyrographers who are selling their art to those who are just discovering pyrography. The Holidays are here, and people in your life are looking for the perfect gift to get you. Send this list to people you love, or go ahead and treat yourself and your business to an awesome gift or two! Set yourself up for success this coming year.
WBC receives a very small portion of purchases made using Amazon links, but these are all supplies that we highly recommend.
The Pyro + Business summit Recordings 2022
39 classes with 35 presenters from all over the globe. Learn from pyro experts with the live wood burning masterclasses, pyro panel discussions, business panel discussions, interviews, community chats, challenges + so much more.
The wood burn sessions
Learn from 6 pyro experts with these recorded wood burning masterclasses.
the crafters box
The Crafters Box is a small business run by female entrepreneurs that support handmade makers. It’s a service providing AMAZING, high-end, slow-craft kits with accompanying videos by experts to teach new & interesting crafts, like pyrography.
Creative Woodburning School
Bee Locke creating a lesson by lesson Creative Woodburning School which will take all the guesswork out of pyrography for you.
Patterns For Tracing
High-quality art templates that inspire creativity and encourage artistic growth
The Wood Burn Book
A book I wish I had when I started wood burning. This book by Rachel of @woodburncorner is an essential guide for pyrographers.
Community Book Of Templates
Pyrography design patterns showcasing 57 original templates from 34 wood burning artists from around the globe. Along with the woodburning instructions, the intention here is to help artists of all skill levels to hone their craft, try new styles, and make beautiful art through collaboration.
Community Book of Templates, Volume Two
Similar to the first edition above, this template book has more unique designs as well as instructions on how to wood burn.
Community Book of Templates, radial symmetry edition
Same idea as the first two editions above, this template book features radial symmetry patterns and includes step by step mandala making instructions as well as instructions on how to wood burn.
Creative Woodburning
One of Rachel’s favorite pyrography books out there. Bee Locke of @beesymmetry did a fantastic job creating this book.
Woodburning realistic animals
This book by Minisa Robinson is fabulous if you are looking to hone your shading skills, and create realistic images.
Best tool for watercolor
These water pens will save you time when using water colors and are super portable. No need for a water cup with these pens.
best trick for resin
This is for Resin Finish lovers. I learned this trick from Aly of @alyoopsartistry, you put a layer of isolation coat first on your burned piece, and then pour your resin and it will keep the resin from soaking into the wood. Such a great trick!
best trick for transferring
Quite possibly Rachel’s greatest contribution to pyrography, the discovery of Tombow Sand Erasers to remove unwanted graphite marks left on wood.
best wood
This Walnut Hollow Basswood Plank Value Pack is Rachel’s favorite wood to burn on.
fantastic alternative medium
You may have tried acrylic, water color, and colored pencils on wood, but have you trie gouache??? Check out these gorgeous metallic gouache paints from Arteza
stop propping your phone on weird surfaces
This is what I use to record videos, go LIVE, take photos, and teach classes. This gooseneck phone holder is a must have for recording your work.
keep your space safe
Stay safe, and keep those around you safe with a Mini Smoke Extractor. This little machine works!
Make it even safer
I use this guy in conjunction with my desktop smoke extractor to really keep my air clean.
comfort + safety
This is our favorite mask. It is comfortable, and protective. The link is to our favorite fit: the M2 style. It comes in many colors and many other strap combinations and fits.
Master of flames Pyro Shirt
Pyrography tshirt from Andreina of @reinamor_apw. From her original wood burning tools illustration.
pyro Clothing + Accessories
Merch just for the pyrographers out there! Several other options like: Pyro is Fire, Burn Babe, Burn Club, and more…
Burnin' Up tote
Perfect tote for wood burning or craft materials for on the go! Created by Andreina of @reinamor_apw.
pyro bags for pyro pals
Grace of @piecelovemusic made this adorable pyro bag, perfect for all your loose nibs.
Send this list to your significant others, family members, or friends who are looking to get you the perfect gift. Or go ahead and treat yourself!
Art has long been recognized as a form of therapy that promotes relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. One specific form of art that has recently gained popularity for its therapeutic benefits is radial symmetry art, paired with pyrography, or wood burning.
Radial symmetry is a design technique where an image is divided into equal sections that radiate from a central point. This type of art can be found in nature, such as in the petals of a flower or the scales of a fish, and it can also be created by artists using various mediums. When drawing radial symmetry art, an individual can focus their attention on the repetition and balance of the design, which can promote a meditative state of mind and relieve stress.
Pyrography, or wood burning, involves using a heated tool to create designs on wood. When combined with radial symmetry art, the individual can transfer their design onto a wooden surface and use the pyrography tool to burn the design into the wood. The act of burning the design into the wood can be therapeutic in and of itself, as it requires focus, patience, and precision.
One of the benefits of using radial symmetry art and pyrography as a form of therapy is that it is accessible to individuals of all skill levels. The design can be as simple or complex as the individual desires, and the pyrography tool can be used to create varying degrees of shading and texture. The act of creating something with your own hands, regardless of the outcome, can be a powerful way to reduce stress and increase feelings of self-efficacy.
In addition to its therapeutic benefits, radial symmetry art and pyrography can also be a fun and creative hobby. The finished product can be used as a decorative piece or given as a personalized gift to a loved one.
Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!
The Community Book of Templates (Radial Symmetry Edition) offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes.
Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco and art nouveau movements.
These two books each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with.
Step-by-step instructions on how to create your own radial symmetry patterns!
If you don’t have any pyrography tools or materials and want to burn with us, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit blog post for resources and links on where to purchase everything you need to get wood burning.
All you need for drawing your own radial symmetry pattern is a piece of paper (or wood slice you want to burn on), pen/pencil, a compass (can be improvised if you dont have one), and a ruler (also optional)!
The combination of radial symmetry art and pyrography is a unique and rewarding form of therapy. By focusing on the repetition and balance of the design and using a heated tool to burn it into wood, individuals can experience a sense of relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. So why not try your hand at this therapeutic art form and see what you can create?
Wood burning is such a versatile, relaxing, useful and wonderful hobby, and we’re so excited for you to discover it all.
For all the beginners who want to try out this craft, we created The Wood Burn Box, which is basically a starter kit that has everything we would use when completing a pyrography project and all the basic tools and supplies you need to make beautiful wood-burned pieces of art.
We love The Wood Burn Box but wanted some more customizable aspects. We put together The DIY Starter Wood Burning Kit where you can choose the supplies and materials depending on your project choices and budget!
Please note: A majority of the items on the list are affiliate links. We would never recommend something that we didn’t believe in or haven’t tried, so you can be sure you are getting the right tools and materials to complete the job!
Download you Guide to Wood Burning and then scroll down to choose your materials and supplies!
There are many options to the tools one can use to complete a project. The prices vary widely but so does the quality, function and comfort level when using the tools. Below are three options from least expensive to more professional:
We recommend The Walnut Hollow Versa Tool when starting out. The price point is affordable and the tool is a quality burner (especially for the price).
This tool allows you to get an understanding of pyrography without dishing out a bunch of money. You can really create any piece with this variable temperature burner, especially larger pieces requiring a lot of coverage.
This tool is bit bulky to hold and the electrical wire on it is a bit stiff. The handle is far away from the nib making it a wee bit awkward to hold (not ideal if you are spending hours of burning time). However, many professional artists can get past this and never upgrade to a different tool. Some artists use gloves or a little bean bag cushion under their hand to give them more support and comfort.
Even with these drawbacks, this is a good tool for beginners and one I enjoy having in my tool bag. My favorite part about this solid point tool is that you can get a separate transfer point nib that will allow you transfer images onto wood quickly and efficiently.
The higher end tools we recommend are professional wire tip burners. These can be quite expensive, but are fantastic for frequent users. They heat up and cool down quickly, are more comfortable to hold, and have many different nib options which are generally easier and faster to changeout while burning. We recommend either the Razertip or the Optima 1 from PJL Enterprises. They are both quality tools.
Most commonly, wood is the surface choice for pyrography artist. The list of other items you can burn on is long but wood is a good place to start because it is usually flat, easily available and affordable.
Check out our Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On
You can source wood from many different locations. From your local lumber yards, renovation and kitchen cabinetry shops, Facebook market place and even online classifieds like Craigslist and Kijiji.
Often times wood is being given away or sold at a super low price (especially for offcuts and scrap pieces). You don’t always have the luxury of choosing what you will get but can save a lot of money and push your creativity.
Please, always ensure you know what you are burning on! Check out our Guide to Burning Safely blog post to stay safe while burning. Never burn on anything with a finish and always utilize safety equipment.
We love Walnut Hollow for their sustainability efforts, variety of wood styles as well as their quality. Their woods are pre-sanded and ready for crafting. They primarily have basswood, birch and pine and some have a live edge and some do not. We recommend for beginners to start with Basswood.
Look for their basswood and birch options. Stay away from pine for your first burn at pine can cause some frustrations when burning.
Another company we love for wood is It’s David and Renee. Their wood is butter smooth! They are a small business and all their slices are hand made with loads of care and attention to detail. They offer a sample pack, a burnable box package and other fun and unique woods to burn on like cutting boards and a whole bunch of differently shaped ornaments!
It’s David and Renee have a Patreon group called The Timberdoodle, where you can get access to bulk orders, first dibs on now stock, and coupon codes/discounts!
You can also check out these other wood suppliers: Rustic Wood Supply, Woodpecker Crafts, and Aspen Rustic Creations
Uk people, check out Waney Woodworks
People in Canada, check out Lee Valley Tools and Exotic Wood
You can do just about anything once you have the machine and a surface to burn on. There are a few items to make the process more enjoyable, quicker and easier.
Graphite paper provides a cheap and quick way to get designs you drew on paper or printed out onto your wood. Not as fast as the heat method above but definitely much cheaper.
Check out this blog post to learn how to use this paper to transfer your design.
You can simply use a pen or pencil (a red pencil crayon helps you not to miss any lines) with your graphite paper or you can use an embossing tool.
Embossing Tools allow you to transfer your design without completly damaging the original artwork (tracing over it).
Washi tape holds down your design without damaging the surface or the original artwork.
The Tombow Sand Eraser! This little guy is a great options for removing leftover tracing lines and possibly one of Wood Burn Corner’s greatest discoveries.
Click here for a blog post with more information on removing lines or mistakes from your wood.
Another option for removing leftover lines from your pencil or graphite is sandpaper! Sandpaper is also a go to for making your surface smooth and ready to sand on. The smoother the surface, the more pleasant your burning experience will be! This pack has all the levels of grit.
Learn more about sanding your wood here.
I use a brass brush for cleaning my nibs. These ones I suggest lay flat so they are convenient to use mid burn.
Click here to see other ways to keep your nips and tips clean and functioning properly!
Grab some patterns to trace! Following a line will make it easier to focus on the function of your tool versus where you will be burning next, especially if you are not comfortable with drawing free-hand. Below are two FREE templates to get you started.
Check out our Community Template Books for even more patterns to practice with or visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale!
Grow with the community: Join the Burn Club mailing list. There are monthly giveaways, a place to ask your burning questions, links to resources and so much more!
Grab The Wood Burn Book for projects and inspiration plus more information about pyrography including creating textures, finishing your piece and mixed media!
Wood is the most common surface for pyrography! There are other surfaces you can burn on, but wood is available almost everywhere and is definitely a great place to start if you are new to wood burning.
Always look for unfinished, sanded smooth, and dried wood. These are musts for pyrography.
There are also some woods you should absolutely avoid and that list, you can find here.
And onto what you will want to burn on! Below are the top wood surfaces to burn on according to our own experiences as well as from polling hundreds of pyrographers in the community.
Please note there are affiliate links below. We always link to products we know and love and personally have used ourselves!
Basswood is a very common wood species that is easy to find and easy to burn on.
It is a favorite amongst pyrographers because of its availability, light color (creating nice contrast with burn lines) and for the way it burns. It is easy and smooth to burn on.
The grain is visible, but still smooth so it doesn’t effect your burn as much as other woods.
The even, light color makes it the perfect canvas for wood burning. Oh and the color of the wood only darkens slightly when adding any oils or finishes. Other woods can get much darker.
It is easily found with the very classic tree-bark live-edge, making the perfect rustic rounds.
The bonus with basswood is that because it’s commonly available, it comes in loads of different shapes, sizes, live edge, no live edge, thick or thin, etc… We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! Walnut Hollow’s collection of Basswood are always sanded smooth and are ready to burn on:
Cherry is such a lovely wood to burn on. There are many variations (color and grain) which may be distracting for some, but for others, this adds character.
One slight downfall is that cherry contains some natural sap, which can release potentially irritating fumes when burned so please, as with any wood surface you are burning on, proceed with safety and caution.
I love cherry for it’s warm, reddish tone and rich colour. You can create beautifully detailed pyrography art on it at a slightly higher heat setting (or slower pace).
Be careful in adding any finishes (stains or even colourless oils and sealers), as cherry wood darkens quite a bit. You can still see the burn lines, but it decreases the contrast the pyrography marks make.
Here is an example of a cherry wood slice with resin on it. The colour is rich and beautiful but if your design has light shading, it could disappear after a finish is applied!
Birch is a harder in structure, when it comes to pyrography, which means you either turn up the heat or move slower with it. Because it is a harder wood, it allows for incredible details.
Even though it is slightly harder to burn on, it still has beautiful qualities like the light blonde color, stunning white live edge bark and subtle grain lines that don’t interfere with the burning. It typically has a bright, creamy-white color or yellowish tint and a satin-like sheen to its finish which makes for nice contrast when burning.
Basia enjoys burning on end grain, like on this round live edge wood slice above, especially when the wood slice has the bark in tact. Rachel prefers face grain wood which has the grain running across the entire wood slice.
In general, birch trees aren't as big (or thick) as other hardwoods, so the slices you get from them usually aren't big either. Because of this, companies make birch wood plywood. As with ANY plywood, these planks use a lot of glues which can be dangerous to burn on. Always wear the safety gear, no matter what.
Aspen burns very similar to basswood in our experience, but isn’t just one solid color. It has lovely variations in color to it, which is my favourite part about this wood - it's easy to recognize and the colours on it can add to your design. If that doesn’t work for you or your design, try a face grain cut slice (the planks versus the rounds). Not sure what face grain is? Check out our Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist blog post to learn more.
Aspen is softer when burning making it feel buttery smooth and satisfying.
The grain is subtle and you can barely feel anything at all when burning, especially if sanded properly!
Walnut is such a juicy wood to burn on. It has a lovely medium/dark brownish color to it, and smells amazing when you burn it, however it is more on the expensive side.
It also contains a natural compound called juglone, which can cause respiratory irritation when burned in large amounts (if you burn hot) or over long periods of time. It’s essential to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and follow ALL safety precautions, as with any other woods you are working with.
This is one of those woods that soaks up finishes and darkens quite a bit when you put any finishes. This could make your lines and shading not as visible… Any light shading will disappear.
However, add a finish to this and just watch the natural grain pop and shine; So much dimension in this wood species!
The grains are visible but don’t interfere with burning. It is a dream is you burn deep like I do.
We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! They have buttery smooth Walnut.
Maple is one of Rachel’s personal favorites to burn on. She love the subtle grain in it (which does not get in the way of burning), and the color of the wood makes a great canvas.
It is harder than basswood, and is just lovely to burn on at a slightly higher heat. It is nice and lightly colored, lending itself well for pyrography. Finishes will darken the surface but not very much so you will not loose your work.
Maple is a bit more costly than basswood, but is worth it.
Sourwood is one of Basia’s favourites due to the large and intricate live edge bark on it. The bark is so stunning, it creates it’s own frame of sorts!
The surface is lighter in color making a great canvas for burning and even though it is a hardwood, with some patience, higher heat and a slower pace, it is still a pleasure to burn on.
Poplar is another great choice for wood burning. It is another light colored option, although often it has a green tone to it which not everyone likes. There is a process you can take to get rid of this but it must be completed after you burn (because burning on the treatment is dangerous) and may require a bit of sanding so ensure your burn lines are fairly deep.
The grains can get in the way a bit, but otherwise it is a fairly smooth burn. It is quite similar to maple, but less expensive. A great choice for pyrography and very accessible and cheap.
Cedar has a beautiful rich red color in the center and a lighter color on its edges.
It burns really nicely and is lovely to work with because is a softer wood. It feels like butter. It’s easy to understand pyro tools and the variety of nibs and what they can do because you require less control when the wood is softer, can burn at a higher temperature, therefore allowing you to play around a little.
WARNING! Cedar is a very resinous wood. All kinds of cedar, but especially ones like Western Red Cedar, contain natural oils and resins, (creosote) which may release harmful fumes when burned (more fumes when heated very high). I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy this wood for a project, but I had a lot on hand after a building project. Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood.
Also, beware when staining, that red color deepens quite a bit, so always practice before adding a finish to a cedar wood burned piece.
A great place to learn more about your favorite wood types is at wood-database.com - here you will find all the specs you need!
Beech
Cork (Be careful with this one! Not all cork is made with glue, so make sure to use natural cork which is made directly from the bark of the cork oak tree).
Ash
Mahogany
Alder
Sycamore
Cypress
Willow
Check out the DO NOT BURN ON list here.
Click Here for pyrography surfaces to burn on that are not wood!
Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.
I am beyond excited to share my third book, The Wood Burn Community Book of Templates, Volume 2!
This book is a dream realized: a pyrography book of templates created by our community for the community. This book of templates is a beautiful collection of designs for artists at all stages from our incredibly talented and diverse community.
The Wood Burn Community Book of Templates features pyrography design patterns created by the community for the community. It showcases 60+ original templates from 34 wood burning artists from around the globe, with the intention of helping artists of all skill levels past, present, and future to hone their craft, try new styles, and make beautiful art through collaboration. This collection of designs include fantasy, florals, nature, sea life, patterns, people and more.
Check out #thewoodburncommunitybook on instagram to view completed projects!
Every one-of-a-kind piece of art you create from these community templates is a collaboration! Each design can be interpreted in an infinite number of ways.
Rachel Strauss, author of The Wood Burn Book and the original Wood Burn Community Book of Templates founder of Burn Club and Wood Burn Corner, includes a basic wood burning quickstart guide, and provides you with a list of essential materials needed for pyrography. She offers information on getting involved in the community, before presenting you with a feast of artwork, each begging to become your next creation!
Follow them and tag them in the pieces you create!
David and Renee are the double-duo behind It's David and Renee and specialize in creating sustainably sourced, specialty wood surfaces for other artists to use as a canvas for their own art. They also create thier own fine art pieces, including multi-media pyrography and artisan woodcraft.
Renee of @itsdavidandrenee is such a fabulous pyrographer and person.
Her pyrography is BOLD! Her color choices and sparkle factors alone speak for themselves.
Do yourself a huge favor and follow this wonderful human and artist. Let’s help support her and her husband, David, their art and their delicious wood slice canvases!
Find It’s David and Renee on:
Guest blog post by Renee of @itsdavidandrenee
So, you’ve made some wood art and now you have to give your piece a name. Whether you’re naming your art based off the subject matter, such as “Whimsical Ladybugs in a Coneflower Garden” or “The Queen’s Crown” or whatever it may be, OR you’re writing a descriptive title of your piece to go into a gallery, there are steps you must take to achieve a solid, effective title that communicates the best properties of your art.
We’ll dive deep into all five tips below.
Use sensory adjectives
Write as if they already have the art in their hands
Don’t assume they’ll notice the details
Describe the wood canvas, not just the artwork design
Describe the artwork design or subject matter
Sensory words are a MUST! Describing art can be tricky depending on how the art is meant to be consumed. A large art installment full of textiles you can touch and feel is different than a somber war memorial installment, a modern light show, Van Gogh’s Immersive Experiences, or sidewalk chalk art. Even still, those are entirely different than your piece of wood art. Most people are going to be using sight and touch for your wood art, not taste, sound, or smell, so using strong visual sensory adjectives is KEY!
Pretend someone walks into a gift shop and picks up your artwork to ooo and awe over it! Put yourself in their shoes. What are they looking at? What’s the first thing they notice? How does it feel in their hands? Is it physically smooth? Does it have delicate bark chipping off? Is it a large, heavy wood slice? If they’re looking at it up close and personal, what are they seeing? Are they seeing the crispness of your lines? The glitter, shimmer, and shine of your metallic paint? Are they experiencing the iridescence of holographic foil? Are they embracing the textures of the various fibers in your fiber art? Consider what their “pretend” in-person experience of holding your art is like, and use those descriptors in your online descriptions. Make your customer imagine holding your art in their hands.
Do NOT assume they’ll notice all those above details you worked so hard to achieve. What some people notice, others won’t. Not everyone experiences art the same way. Describe all those details you’re so proud of!
Just like in the above example, you’re going to want to tell them what they’re looking at., even if you think it sounds silly. Example: “When holding this brilliantly vibrant piece in your hands, you’ll notice how the dancing glitter shimmers and shines in the light. The glitter within these paints brings a depth to the pigments that can be truly appreciated when holding this piece at book-reading distance. You’ll also notice the physically indented texture of the woodburned lines and crisp stippled dots when you run your fingers over the textured areas.”
Point out those details! They will appreciate the senses of enjoying your work in person, even if they’re reading your description from the other side of the screen.
Wood canvases are super special and unique, because they themselves have their own characteristics- species, color, shape, thickness, surface texture, grain patterns, smoothness, chatoyance, etc. You should be describing these characteristics and how they play into your artwork, both in your title and in the written description.
People who utilize the standard white canvases from the craft stores usually don’t describe their canvas, because those canvases aren’t unique and don’t play into the effect of the painting. They almost all have the same texture, they all have a wooden frame behind them, and honestly, they’re just plain. Someone can say “canvas,” and you already know what that looks like. It’s already in your mind’s eye. You would just be describing the artwork that you put on the canvas, like “oil painting on canvas” or “fiber art mixed media on canvas.”
But when someone says “wood,” what do you automatically imagine? Rustic basswood? Refined cherry? There are so many varieties and possibilities that it’s guaranteed everyone will imagine something different.
There is a whole world of wood. “Acrylic painting on wood.” What does that tell you? NADA. What kind of wood? Can you even tell your artwork is on wood? Does the wood have live edge bark? Is it a crisp, clean cut piece of wood? GIMME THE DEETS! Is it thick, like ¾”, or is it a thin slice of birch plywood? Your people need to know. Your people should be able to imagine this piece of wood without looking at it.
“Pyrography on wood.”
Absolutely not. Needs waaaayyyy more.
“Pyrography on Maple.”
Nope, still needs more. Describe that Maple.
“Pyrography on an Ambrosia Maple panel.”
More. What does the panel look like? Does it have bark? What shape is it? Is it a round wood slice? Is it a clean-cut panel? More.
“Pyrography on a low-profile, 8” square Ambrosia Maple wood panel.”
Much better! You described the shape, the size, the species, and its side profile (meaning how far it sticks out from the wall).
“Pyrography on a small, round live-edge Basswood wood slice.”
Yep! This is pretty good. Again, you described the shape, the relative size, the species, and its bark features.
I would say those titles are not too wordy but not too stingy on descriptors.
In the above example, we’re using “pyrography,” so let’s continue with that. We need to expand the “pyrography” part of the name. Is your pyro art colored or painted? Is it mixed media? What is an adjective you would use to describe this piece? What is the subject matter of your art? A crazy-colored symmetrical mandala is obviously a way different subject matter than a sepia-toned realistic dog portrait.
*Visually-descriptive adjectives have entered the chat*
Let’s get our list of adjectives out. What does it LOOK like? What kinds of words would you use to describe your art to your grandmother over the phone?
You: “Hi Memaw! Yes ma’am, I’m good. I made some new art. What kind of art? Well, um. It’s woodburned art, I do woodburning.”
Your Memaw: *Doesn’t really know what that means and imagines her living room fireplace with burnt logs.* “Oh, you burn wood? Well that’s… nice.”
This lack of description is confusing to your Memaw. You gotta describe it to her as if you’re in a museum describing it.
When I was in college, I was a professional note-taker for the visually- and hearing-impaired students through the Office of Disabilities. I went to classes that had deaf or blind students, and took notes for them. I got really good at descriptors and adjectives when I was assigned to an art history class and took notes of all the famous art. My visually-impaired clients needed to be able to read my notes out-loud through their computer programs to study later on, so it was my job to make sure I communicated details very effectively. This is the same concept here. Describe your art to someone who is not looking at it.
Here are a few examples:
Vibrant, Dark, Shadowy, Moody, Technicolor, Bright, Playful, Geometric, Detailed, Realistic, Contrasting, Lively, Muted, Monochromatic, Symmetrical, Abstract, Mystical
And the list goes on and on. (This would be a great time to make your own list of adjectives!)
Anyway, back to the example.
We ended #4’s example with “Pyrography on a low-profile, 8” square Ambrosia Maple wood panel.” Let’s use that crazy-colored symmetrical mandala subject matter I mentioned, too. Let’s say the center of the mandala is centered in the middle of the square, and the mandala has vibrant, shimmery pink and purple paints neatly painted in the curves and motifs of the mandala, alternating between the various shades of pinks and purples and radiating out to the edge of the mandala. The negative space around the mandala is just the natural wood with no paint.
To me, in my head, I imagine this piece as very bright, starkly eye-catching, crisp and clean, vibrant and radiant, with even lines, perfectly-spaced swirls and motifs that centrically expand from the center of the mandala. I see these shimmery pink and purple paints catching the sunlight juuuust right, making them seem like they’re glowing from the wood.
“Pyrography on wood” just doesn’t cut it.
“Mandala pyrography.”
Nope. It’s so much more than that. Describe it.
“Symmetrical mandala pyrography.”
Ehh. Closer, but that still isn’t capturing the essence of the piece. DEETS! I NEED THE DEETS!
“Radiant, symmetrical mandala mixed-media pyrography art handburned on a low-profile, 8” square Ambrosia Maple wood panel.”
YES. YESYESYESYES. This is perfect. You have now described the art’s physical appearance (radiant), the subject matter (symmetrical mandala), the media (pyrography and mixed-media), the method of creation (you, “handburned”), the medium (the wood) and the details of the wood.
I would say to follow this Krabby Patty secret formula every time, however, there will always be exceptions to this rule. If you feel like this is too wordy, maybe change out the adjectives to shorten it. If you feel it needs more for your piece, then add a little more.
And remember, if you’re writing a longer description underneath your title or in the description box on your website, you can add more details there. Do what feels right for you and your style of writing, but don’t sell yourself short.
To sum it all up, words are powerful. Language evokes the senses. Use your words the best you can to convey the best name, title, and/or description possible.
Make your people envision your art in their head by using sensory words and specific, descriptive adjectives. Put yourself in your customers’ shoes and play pretend. What they notice, feel, see, and experience can be captured in a great description. Play the name game with your wood art. Put just as much effort into naming and describing your art as you did into designing and creating your art. Your website visitors, in-person shoppers, gallery viewers, and whoever else will notice and appreciate these details.
Mistakes. They happen. You can not easily “edit + undo” in pyrography but there are a couple tricks to making mistakes less visible.
This post includes affiliate links - we only recommend items that we have tried and love!
Razor - This technique is best for lighter burns. Use a razor as a little scraper to remove burn lines that are not too deep. For deeper burns you can still use this trick, however, you will have a dent/groove from the burn and scraping… It will take the contrast away and be less visible though!
Dremel Tool - Same idea as the razor except with a little more power. Depending on the shape of your Dremel bit, you can get into tight corners.
Sanding Stick - Same idea as the Dremel tool but with less power and more precision (depending on the Dremel bits you have. A sanding stick has a straight edge you can use for small fixes). For small areas, try a tiny sanding stick or wrap some sandpaper on a ruler or wood slice if in a pinch,
Sandpaper - If you want to fix a small mistake and don’t have a sanding stick, try folding up the sandpaper to create a sharp edge. Or wrap the paper around a block and use a corner to remove mistakes.
Tombow Eraser - A super handy eraser that is half eraser and half sandpaper. It has grit within it so it helps to take off any lines and overburn and the eraser in it does the rest. It works great on pencil but it won’t take off 100% of dark graphite (if you pressed really hard during your transfer). Use a tombow eraser first as it won’t scratch up your surface and then finish off with a super light sanding.
Keep Burning - Sometimes you just need to embrace the mistakes and work with them. Continue burning and adjust the original design to make your mistake disappear. Try to burn around the area instead of on top as burning the same spot will result in a deeper burn which may stand out and cannot be fixed.
You’ve finished your wood slice art piece but can see remaining pencil lines from drawing your design, or even worse, transfer lines after using a no-heat transfer technique or the heat technique, you can see bits and pieces of your graphite lines.
There are a couple ways to get rid of these too!
Start here as the eraser gets the majority of the lines off or at least makes them much lighter and less visible.
Give it a VERY light sanding with sandpaper:
Regular old sandpaper will work to get off graphite and pencil lines. Lightly sanding over your burn lines makes them sharper and cleaner, getting rid of overburn. This part sounds scary but it will really get everything off! Except what you’ve burned of course, UNLESS your lines and shading are not deep. If you have very light shading or lines, you may have to touch them up. I usually recommend getting the outline or majority of my design burned, take of the graphite lines with the Tombow eraser and a light sand, AND THEN fill in details and shading.
After sanding, you may be getting dust in between your pyro lines that are tricky to get out. I use a sandpaper that has a sponge on the back and wipe it with that (dry of course). You can also use a toothbrush, air compressor (like the ones people use to clean their keyboards - they have motorized ones which are better for the environment and more portable than a construction one), or a microfibre cloth.
Firstly, use graphite paper or blue chaco paper. Carbon lines are much much harder to take off!
Use a light hand to transfer your design.
Transfer the minimal amount of lines (i.e. just the outline and the placement of a few details to get you going).
Draw your design directly on the wood, and lightly with a pencil or chalk (much easier to erase than any transfer paper).
Try burning free hand! I mark the general shape or outline with a couple dots or dashes using a pencil. That way there is much less to take off and I usually end up burning on top of those few lines. Tape also works well to make temporary borders.
Megan of @happicamperkc is such a fabulous pyrographer and person. I had the good fortune to get to meet her in person, where we talked about pyrography and small business for hours!
Her pyrography is BOLD! Her color choices alone speak for themselves. She has learned a thing or two in her years as a wood burning artist, and she is sharing her knowledge with us.
Do yourself a huge favor and follow this wonderful human and artist. Let’s help support her so she can make her dream of becoming a full time artist a reality!
Guest blog post by Megan of @happicamperkc
Find Megan on Facebook - Instagram - Etsy
SUPPORT HAPPI CAMPER ON PATREON “We do, and her posts are always filled with knowledge, love, happiness, and COLOR!”
The art of wood burning has changed a lot in the past few decades, and with this change, many misconceptions have come along. I want to help clear things up and tell you the most common myths about this hot-n-trendy medium:
Nope. Like way nope. To me, the best wood types for burning are: Basswood, aspen, Baltic birch. I would 1000% avoid pine and plywood. Each kind burns differently. And it is a preference thing. It's just pine is really difficult with the soft/hardness and plywood straight up has dangerous fumes due to the glue they use when in manufacturing.
Nah, the trick is: Less water. More patience. Also the thinner your pieces, the more likely they are to crack. As long as you're using 1/2" or thicker you will be fine using watercolors on wood art.
I get this one a lot with peeps who see my art on social media, and then maybe come to my burning classes. Unfortunately, no this is NOT the case. I use a professional-grade burner that gets up to 1000 degrees hotter than your 1986 wood burner pen.
To get those hot, hot burn lines like I do I recommend getting a Razertip, Colwood or Optima burner tool.
That's not to say you can't do amazing art with a Walnut Hollow Creative burner. Just check out Hippie North.
Listen. You only get 2 lungs. And you freakin' need them. When I started burning in 2012, I thought the smokiness was no worse than camping. But if you're like me and you wood burn WEEKLY, safety MUST come first.
Use a fan to pull smoke away. Wear a charcoal lined mask. Open windows. If you don't regret it now. You'll regret it later.
Ha! It's not. People go into wood burning thinking that it's like moving a brush across canvas or pen on paper. Pyrography is a whole 'nother beast and it will take time for you to get a feel for how you want to burn.
Too many times I see artists not using a mask and burning their art without any proper ventilation. Although you may not see any side effects from doing this right away, you should be warned that there may be long term effects that can be avoided!! (Among lung and breathing issues, I have heard of people loosing parts of their vision due to prolonged periods of smoke exposure without proper safety gear).
It is not good for you to be breathing the fumes in! Or allowing them to go into your eyes and the rest of the house where others are breathing it too.
Please, please, please keep yourself and those around you safe by following the safety precautions set by the wood burning tool manufacturer. Click here to see how you can protect yourself and grab your free safety guide to print and hang on your wall if this helps to remind you to wear a mask.
There are many different surfaces, other than wood, that you can burn on. The most common surface for pyrography is wood. But did you know that the materials you are burning on emit different toxins depending on what they are made of. Some are more toxic than others. So for instance, burning on dry, unfinished wood can be safe (with the proper gear) but not all raw wood emits the same toxins. There are wood species that are very dangerous for your health, even if you use all the safety precautions.
Driftwood: Burning salt-saturated driftwood is a bad idea as it can release toxic or harmful chemicals when burned, according to the EPA.
Green wood: This type of wood isn’t a species, it is the state of the wood. meaning it’s not completely dry. Once a tree is cut down, it needs to be seasoned for 6 to 9 months to become completely dry. Burning on this will create a lot of smoke and will take much longer, the process will be even slower than regular pyrography.
Wet, rotted, diseased, or moldy wood
Pressure treated wood, plywood, particle board, chipboard, wood pallets or any wood with glue on or in it: Do not burn on anything man-made. This includes wood that has been stained, sealed or treated with any kind of glues or oils (even if they are natural oils). if you mix your media (like I do with water marbling, adding paint on top or gold foil etc) make sure to wood burn first and then add other mediums.
Craft store wood: Many stores sell wood for crafting with but the majority of the time those wood slices are intended to be embellished with paint, chalk or other mediums and are not meant for pyrography!
Wood with "poison" in the name: Burning poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, or pretty much anything else with the word "poison" in it’s name releases the irritant oil urushiol into the smoke. Breathing it in can cause lung irritation and severe allergic respiratory problems, according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention.
Exotic woods: Rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo. are exotic woods and many of them contain natural oils or toxins that can be hazardous when burned. They may cause allergic reactions or respiratory issues due to the chemicals naturally present in the wood.
Manchineel Tree: Found in tropical regions, it produces sap that contains highly toxic compounds, such as phorbol esters. Even standing near the smoke from burning manchineel wood can cause severe reactions, including blistering skin, respiratory distress, and potential blindness.
Oleander shrubs: These thrive in frost-free climates and every part of it is toxic. Definitely don’t burn it in any way - don’t even use a branch to toast your marshmallow on.
The yew tree (Taxus baccata) and a related species common to gardeners, Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is known to be one of the most poisonous woody plants in the world, with all components of the tree, excepting the fleshy red part of the berry containing lethal amounts of taxine, a toxic alkaloid found in the yew.
Mexican pepper: Also known as Brazilian pepper wood, it is similar to poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, the leaves and bark contain urushiol, a toxic oil that causes serious rashes and allergic reactions.
If you feel any dizziness or headaches coming on while burning, stop and assess your situation. Do some research. I like to use the wood-database.com for a quick look up and do a little more research if I don’t get enough information from there. If you are unsure, reach out to us and just ask.
Check out our safety guide for overall health and safety suggestions!
sources:
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/
https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/a20705861/kinds-of-wood-not-to-burn/
https://wooddad.com/what-wood-is-toxic-to-burn/
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/burning-oleander-produce-poisonous-smoke-75289.html
https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/best-wood-burning-practices
https://extension.psu.edu/toxicity-of-yew-wood-and-roots
https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2010-118/default.html
Want to make your own personalized DIY gifts for a loved one?? Pyrography is such a versatile hobby, below are 5 very easy projects you can make yourself and personalize in any way!
Here you will learn all about the tools you need, wood you should be using, safety you should be following and tips and tricks to help you make your own DIY wood slice project ideas come to life!
1. Wood Burned Spoons
Practical, useful gifts are always a good choice! Choose UNFINISHED wooden spoons, spatulas, or salad servers and create a simple design, or customize it with someone’s name or their favorite quote. You really can’t go wrong with this functional art piece. Remind your gift receiver to take special care of wood art in the kitchen! Check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art
2. Fridge Magnets
These can make such a cute gift. Create a set to give, and customize them for each person. These are adorable, functional and pretty easy to execute!
Learn all the details on how to complete this project in this blog post: Make Mini Fridge Magnets
Give it a try!
3. Cutting Board
Another practical, useful and functional art gift! Wood burning is so versatile, and I love how everything can be customized. Turn a favorite photo of your loved one into functional art. Add their name to a cutting board, or their favorite food/plant/flower/animal/etc to a serving board. Make it special to them. Remind them to hand wash only and to use a food-grade safe cutting board oil and reapply as necessary (check out this blog post to learn more about that: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art).
I like to use Walnut Hollow as they have their boards sanded ultra smooth and offer a good variety in terms of wood tyoe, shape and size!
4. Name Sign or Welcome Sign
New house? New marriage? New Baby? Create a family name sign! These are always well received. I like to keep my design simple so it can fit with other people’s decor. You could also add color, their house, or a special date if you have that information. Customize it to them!
5. Wood Burned Clock
This is such a gorgeous, unique and thoughtful gift. It adds a warmth to any space, and is not only beautiful, but quite helpful. To create this piece I used a drill, Clock Parts from Walnut Hollow and a slice of Basswood. I sized and printed the numbers in the font of my choosing to fit the canvas. I then transferred the design using graphite paper and an embossing tool, and then burned the numbers in. Then I used the drill to poke a hole in the center and added the clock parts. I used a Basswood Country Round, but you could also use a Circular Wood Canvas. I did not put a finish my clock, because I want to be able to darken it over time, as need be.
For more gift ideas and things to make next with your wood burning tool, check out this blog post with over 150 ideas of what to burn next!
And if you are just getting started in your pyrography journey, head here.
You can also find more project ideas and a full how-to in The Wood Burn Book or get yourself one of the Wood Burn Community Book of Template books full of traceable templates you can practice pyrography with!
Below is a collection of online gift options that are perfect for wood burning artists or creative people who are looking for a new hobby and like trying new things. These include gift ideas for experienced pyrographers who are selling their art to those who are just discovering pyrography.
Send this list to people you love, or go ahead and treat yourself and your business to an awesome gift or two! Set yourself up for success and keep on learning!
The pyrography + Business summit
Learn from pyro experts with live wood burning masterclasses, panel discussions that dive into pyrography and panel discussions on business, plus interviews, community chats + challenges and more.
Watch Professionals share their secrets while they burn!
Learn from pyro experts with 6 recorded wood burning masterclasses.
Learn online from awesome teachers
Skillshare is an amazing learning platform with TONS of classes for creatives. Give the gift of learning! Such a fantastic place for small creative businesses to grow.
Make it personalized
Alaina of @sweetpeachburns can create a digital drawing of your pet! Send her an email at sweetpeachburns@gmail.com or send her a DM on Instagram.
best earrings ever
My favorite earring designer, Chelsea of @cgdesigns_wear has a gift card available for last minute purchases. If you wanted to get me something, this would be it!
stay on task
Jess of @countrypinesshop put together this printable to help keep you on task in the new year!
Printables, yes please
These downloadable printables from Jessica of @brownpaperbunny are too good to pass up! And they are FREE!
Radial Symmetry Habit trackers
For tracking personal lifestyle habits, art goals and/or business goals!
Shop individual Templates
Choose from a growing list of unique and detailed templates!
Give the Gift of Creativity
A Gift Card lets them choose their favorite templates and designs to spark inspiration for their next project.
Community Book Of Templates
Pyrography instructions and design patterns showcasing 57 original templates from 34 wood burning artists from around the globe, with the intention of helping artists of all skill levels past, present, and future to hone their craft, try new styles, and make beautiful art through collaboration.
Community Book of Templates: Volume TWO
The same vibe as the first edition with a whole new set of templates, artists and fun!
Community Vook of Templates: Third volume
Same same but all circular radial symmetry patterns AND instructions on how to draw your own mandala’s!
Presence
All Art Deco inspired circular radial symmetry patterns AND instructions on how to draw your own mandala’s!
Sanding, like it or hate it, is a part of being a wood burning artist. Sanding your wood before and after you burn can make your entire piece and your burn lines crisper.
A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.
There are some things you can do to make the job a little easier on yourself. See the steps below to getting the perfect surface to burn on:
Place the wood slice on a flat and stable surface that won't move during sanding. You may want to clamp it down to keep it steady.
SAFETY FIRST!
Make sure you are in a well ventilated space, have an air purifier if sharing the space and you are wearing proper safety equipment. Something to protect your eyes and your lungs. Do it every time. The last thing you want is for your art to cause you harm. Protect yourself!
My favourite mask to use for everything I do with pyrography is RZ Mask. The M2 model is my favourite because it fits with my top pun or pony tail but they have so many to choose from and in so many different colors... They all have activated carbon filters which are replaceable and the mesh mask shell and valves are washable and reusable. They are comfortable, breathable and are 99% efficient against particulates down to 0.1 microns in size.
The type of sandpaper you use will depend on how rough the surface of the wood slice is. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and gradually move to a finer grit (120-150 grit) for a smoother finish.
I love THIS bundle from amazon. It comes with a variety if you want to try it out on the wood you have. Some woods need more TLC and others come already very smooth.
In the US grit is determined based on a scale. When shopping for sandpaper, you’ll see numbers such as 80-grit, 100-grit, or 200-grit. Keep in mind:
The higher the number, the smaller the grains and the finer the sandpaper grit.
The lower numbers indicate larger grains and overall coarser sandpaper
Generally you want to start out with a lower grit (coarser sandpaper). This helps to get rid of any larger scuffs, scratch marks, bumps and/or irregularities. Then you will want to increase the grit and finish off with a finer, more gentle sandpaper to get that ultra smooth finish.
Sand your pieces before you do any wood burning to ensure clean and crisp lines. A smooth surface will be much easier to burn on, and will create a better result.
Begin sanding the wood slice using the coarse grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the grain and use a back-and-forth motion. Sand any rough spots until they are smooth.
Once you've sanded the rough spots with the coarse sandpaper, switch to a finer grit sandpaper. Continue sanding until the surface is smooth and free of any scratches.
For an extra-smooth finish, use the finest grit sandpaper (220 grit) to sand the surface once more at the end. This will remove any remaining scratches and leave the surface with a smooth texture.
Wipe off any dust and debris from the wood slice with a clean microfiber cloth (an old dry toothbrush helps to get into the cracks if the cloth cannot). You can also use an air compressor to get rid of any dust. Be careful to not get too close to the bark on a live edge wood slice. The strong air may remove delicate bark pieces and can come off. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use a brush to sweep of the dust or, better yet, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to safely capture the dust.
Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!
In the video below, I used:
RZ Mask: RZ Mask rocks! My first mask was the M2 but i also like the M1 as it has the ear straps which fit nicely. They have loads of different styles and sizes to choose from!
Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit and Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit (here is a good variety pack!)
Sanding a piece after you burn removes any tracing lines as well as “overburn.” (Overburn, as you can see here on the left) is when you have a browning coloration right next to your burn line on the surface). Sanding your piece after you burn it gives your piece crisper and finer lines.
Use a 200-grit or 220-grit sandpaper (the finer the better) and remember to be super gentle when sanding at this stage, especially if you don’t burn very deep.
If you have any shading or surface burn lines, they may come off, so really; go light and slow here.
Watch how I sand my wood slices before I burn on them!
Sanding sponge versus sanding block:
Since sponges form to your hand, a block sand paper will allow you to put in less effort and ensures you are sanding flat and not creating any divots. Try wrapping a sandpaper sheet to a scrap wood if you don’t have a pre-made sanding block (use a tube or pvc pipe instead of a block for contoured wood pieces)
Sanding power tools:
These come in handy! Especially if you prefer to sand your pieces in “batch work” style, meaning you sand a whole bunch all at once. I recommend this, because it is a time saver. You only have to get dirty once, you only have to pull out the tools once, and clean up the mess once. Then you have a stack of ready to go canvases. It’s awesome.
If you want to learn all the ways we transfer designs to wood, check out The Wood Burn Book by Rachel Strauss.
To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!
Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool
***Note: you may come across carbon paper which looks the same and transfers the same. Carbon is much harder to get off of the wood after the transfer so stick to graphite when you can!
You can also get White Graphite
Use the same technique for darker woods, like walnut. The darker the wood is, the better this method shows up!
PRO’s: You only need graphite paper, a design, tape and a pencil. Low cost, easy to use and does a great job transferring even detailed designs. Graphite paper can be reused numerous times, and your designs can be used again as well.
CON’s: Graphite doesn’t remove easily on wood, so you have to be really careful with the transferring (don’t press too hard). Accidental smudges can happen easily. Store graphite separately from wood to make sure they don’t rub together. If you do get any smudges or leftover graphite, there is a chance you can save it by giving it a gentle sand with a 180 to 220 grit sandpaper (a finer grit sandpaper). Here are some other ways to remove leftover lines from transferring or drawing your design.
After you’ve chosen a design and sized it to your sanded down wood slice; line it up and secure it using tape.
Slide the graphite paper, dark side facing the wood, underneath the design.
Take your pencil/pen/embossing tool and follow your design lines using light-medium pressure. Ensure you follow the design lines as closely as possible.
Check on the progress of your design, but do not move around or remove the design until you check to make sure it has completely transferred.
This video below features a Woodland Snail Template by Maria Johnson maple & Fern Co. from The Community Book of Templates, Volume 2. I used transfer paper to omit having to cut up the book or print anything and just traced it right off of the page!
Blue Chaco (there are many different colors to choose from, blue is the darkest)
Trasnferring tool: Pen or pencil or an Embossing tool
PRO’s: Transfers easily like graphite paper, easily removes with damp cloth. Doesn’t stain/scar wood. Can be removed entirely.
CON’s: Be careful not to use too much water. It rubs off really easily, so it is not great for long-term use or too much detail as it can rub off with your hand. Also, since it blue in colour, it’s little harder to see on the wood if your wood is light.
This is a special paper with blue chalk on it. It transfers much like graphite paper, but erases with just a damp cloth.
Tape your design onto your wood, face up.
Slide the blue Chaco paper underneath with the blue side facing the wood.
Follow your design lines using an embossing tool or a ballpoint pen.
Check on progress of transfer, and remove design and chaco paper when everything has transferred Can be used for woodburning.
After wood burning is complete, you can remove the excess chaco markings with a damp cloth.
We like to use the Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack) or Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack) but any pencil will do; the softer the lead, the better (ie. 10B is better to use versus a 2B or any H’s)
PRO’s: It doesn’t require any fancy tools. It works well, and makes for a nice transfer. Works well for fonts and most designs.
CON’s: Time consuming, messy and can have some missing spots. Not great for really fine detailed pieces.
Take your design and flip it over
Blacken/shade the entire backside of your design with an extra-soft pencil, or any line that you will want transferred. Go past the lines on either side, to give yourself some wiggle room when you do the actual transfer.
Flip it back over, with the blackened side down, and carefully place and secure it to the wood slice. You don’t want to rub or move it around too much, because it will rub onto the wood.
Take your pen/pencil/embossing tool and go over the design with a light to medium pressure. Follow your lines as closely as possible. The more precise your transfer, the better your design will look.
Ensure you have completed the transfer before removing the design.
Pyrography is one of the oldest human art forms. As long as humans have been taming fire, they have been drawing with it. It used to be called “pokerwork” before the term pyrography came to be.
Pyrography has a long and varied history.
In a nutshell: It is thought to have originated in Egypt, where it was used to decorate pottery and furniture. The practice then spread to Europe, where it was used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, and other items. In the 19th century, the art form saw a resurgence in popularity and was used to decorate a variety of items. In modern times, pyrography has become a popular art form and is used to create detailed and intricate designs. Today, pyrography is used to decorate furniture, musical instruments, kitchenware, and more.
Antique Circa 1890 Flemish Art Co. Pyrography Maiden Wood Wall Hanging Plaque
The history of pyrography: Wikipedia tells us that the process has been practiced by a number of cultures including the Egyptians and some African tribes since the dawn of recorded history. Pyrographer Robert Boyer hypothesizes that the art form dates back to prehistory when early humans created designs using the charred remains of their fires.
Pyrography artists in the middle ages used newly invented portable wood stoves as a heat source. These stoves had small holes in their lids for pokers to be placed through. The pokers rested in the holes and heated over the coals of the stove until they were hot enough to use. Artists would carry several pokers (needles and knives were also used) with them at all times so they could continue working while other pokers heated.
It was known in China from the time of the Han dynasty, where it was known as "Fire Needle Embroidery". During the Victorian era, the invention of pyrography machines sparked a widespread interest in the craft, and it was at this time that the term "pyrography" was coined (previously the name "pokerwork" had been most widely used).
The term, pyrography, means "writing with fire", from the Greek pur (fire) and graphos (writing). It can be practiced using specialized modern pyrography tools, or using a metal implement heated in a fire, or even sunlight concentrated with a magnifying lens.
Surviving examples of Western European pyrography from the 15th and 16th centuries include decorative designs on musical instruments such as the Trinity and Queen Mary harps and richly ornamented chests, coffers and panels from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Queen Mary harp currently resides in Scotland and the Trinity harp in Ireland. The pyrographic designs are faint and the pigments faded.
According to SophieNBurg, museum and archives, A mechanical tool was invented around 1900 that made the creation of pyrography art easier. In the early 20th century, the development of the electric pyrographic hot wire wood etching machine further automated the pokerwork process.
The craft of pyrography enjoyed a surge of popularity in the United States from the 1880s to the 1920s. Housewives and young adults were encouraged to keep their hands busy and make small craft projects to beautify their homes. Books and magazines published designs and patterns. Kits were available through mail-order catalogues like Sears, Roebuck & Co. and Montgomery-Ward. Pyrography is a traditional folk art in many parts of Europe, including Romania, Poland, Hungary, and Flanders, as well as Argentina and other areas in South America.
It has been gaining traction and becoming more mainstream these past couple of years, and that is all thanks to the incredibly relaxing qualities that pyrography naturally has and you all! Keep spreading the word about the wonderful world of Pyrography!
These are some of our favourite tools to have nearby when creating pyrography projects of any kind. These are tools that are not necessarily essential, but sure feel essential to me. They make the task at hand easier, faster or simply just more convenient.
This is THE BEST tool that I have found to get rid of unwanted graphite markings. I first discovered this when I saw an ink artist using the eraser, and saw that it was called a “sand eraser,” so I wondered if it would work on wood, and it did! Now I see this eraser being using widely amongst pyros, and it makes me so happy I decided to experiment that day.
This saves so much time with watercolor/gouache/acrylic. Instead of having to dip back in water, the water is held in the pen. It’s brilliant!!! It’s easy to adjust the amount of water too which is key to painting on wood. Too much water can split it… Always remember to burn first, and then add your color. CLICK HERE for more water-colour on wood tips.
This is my go-to, must-have tool next to me while I burn. I use it to quickly and gently scrape away any char on my nib so I can keep a nice smooth burn. Some artists may think this is too harsh for their nibs, but I have had zero issues with scratching/damaging nibs with this technique. Look for something with softer bristles. Giving it a quick scrape keeps my lines clean and smooth. Highly recommend. CLICK HERE to learn more about maintaining and cleaning your tools.
This stuff is a great alternative to graphite paper, and only requires a little damp cloth to wipe away. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it, and can be used over and over again just like graphite paper. You transfer it in the exact same way you do for a transfer or graphite paper, but any unwanted lines can be removed so much easier. (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat).
Metal is key here, because you can use it to burn straight lines by cozying your burner right up next to the edge of the ruler. If you were to use plastic, you’d melt it, so be sure it is a metal ruler. It works really well to create nice straight lines, just be sure to hold it firmly in place and keep your fingers out of the way. Do not hold the ruler near where you are burning!
This is like having a magic eraser. Any over burned areas, or little mistakes you can gently chip them away with a razor blade and no one will ever know. Be careful though. Once. you chip it away, you won’t have a flat texture to burn on and the spot may be noticeable, especially if you go deep. Try gently scraping it first. On the other hand, getting the inverted texture is something you are looking for: it is great for creating fine hairs in detailed photorealistic pieces after you’ve burned it.
This is so I can carefully change nibs while they are still warm. If you are impatient, like me, I suggest having a pair of these at the ready when you are burning. Also have a ceramic dish or glass jar/bowl to catch those hot nibs to go along with it. This is obviously not necessary, because you can always wait for your burner to cool before changing nibs by hand.
This is where I ditch my hot nibs/tips when changing them out mid-burn. A glass or metal dish would work as well.
These sand paper pens/sticks are also great for those finer details, and little mistakes. No matter how good of a job I did on the burn, I can always tidy it up a bit with one of these bad boys. It only takes a little bit of time, but they clean up any piece to give it that polished look.
I use this for transferring designs to wood (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat). It allows me to use the same design over and over again.
This is so I can film and photograph while I burn hands-free. It is much safer and creates better quality content.
I have one small holder that I attach to my desk for close ups. This is one I also take around with me because it is super portable and very very sturdy.
The larger one lives on my desk!
If you are a pyrographer that utilizes social media for marketing, then I can not recommend this enough. Hit that record button each time you sit down, and you will find yourself with so much great content that you can use.
Check out this blog post for learning how to take care of all your wood burning tools.
Tool care and cleaning is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.
Caring for a pyrography machine ensures its longevity and consistent performance.
If you are in the market to buy, but don’t know what to choose, check out this blog post: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?
Below are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape.
We include products with Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools. We only recommend what we know and love.
Make sure your burner has good air flow.
Make sure it is free of dust and dirt. Do not use harsh chemicals or water to clean the machine, as this can damage its components: Wipe the machine and pen with a soft, dry cloth instead.
Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time and avoids damaging internal components.
Avoid pulling or yanking the cords; instead, unplug it gently.
Follow manufacturer instructions: Refer to the user manual for specific care recommendations for your pyrography machine.
Keep the machine in a cool, dry place, away from moisture or extreme temperatures.
Do not to bend any of the cords with force or pressure or excessively. This will cause the wires to break or become weak inside the palstic. You usually can’t see this happeneing but it does, especially with lots of bending.
Store the pen with its tip detached or in a protective case to prevent damage. Usually the pens come in individual cases… Keep these for travel or storage. I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!
Ensure the tips or nibs you use are compatible with your machine.
Handle tips with care, as bending or forcing them can damage the connectors. This goes for when in use and storing them!
You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.
My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my nip/tip/pen a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy” or I see char build-up.
Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.
These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.
Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.
Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.
Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.
Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.
In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!
Adding mixed media elements to a wood burned piece is so much fun. The options are literally endless.
The image here is wood burned first, then holes were drilled, and then I used thread to create patterns that mimic the wood burned patterns! Imagine this with other rope materials (such as iridescent thread or simple twine…)
Have fun with it and think outside the box!
One thing you want to keep in mind is that you should almost always do your pyrography first, then add your mixed media. It is not safe to burn on unnatural surfaces. Grab your Pyrography Safety Guide to stay safe while burning!
Dried Flowers
Artificial Flowers
Watercolor (click for a blog post for tips on how to add watercolor to wood)
Shelves
Chalkboard paint
Hooks
Mirrors
Stickers
Photographs
Lights
Macrame
Gemstones
Numbers
Metallic Finishes (I tried out 8 different gold metallic mediums: Metallic Gold and Wood)
Gold Leaf on Wood
Pencil Crayon on Wood
Plants
Embroidery
Glitter
Sand
Shells
Beads
Sparkly Glue
Pencil Crayons
Water Marbling (Click to be taken to finelinepyro.ca and learn more about this medium)
Ebru Painting/Water Marbling on Wood
The options are endless so have fun experimenting with all different mediums! If you’ve tried one that is not on this list, leave a comment below!
Follow along a variety of projects using mixed media in The Wood Burn Book to see other projects you can make on wood.
For some inspiration, follow my Pinterest board to see all sorts of different mediums you can apply to wood!
What you need: Get all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)
Below are to all the products we used (some are Amazon affiliate links):
Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point
Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool
I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:
The Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow is a wire-tipped burner that comes with four interchangeable points/nibs.
Walnut Hollow just created four new nibs that work with this burner, and in this video I show them to you.
The 4 new nibs or points (Stamping Point 1, Drawing Point 2, Spoon Shading Point 1 and Spoon Shading Point 2) are now available for the Creative Woodburner. This is how each of the nibs can be used.
You can purchase these individually at walnuthollow.com
